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Showing results for tags 'ecu'.
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Hi Sau community, I have a mint S1.5 Gunmetal Grey R33 gtst coupe, blueprinted motor, forged pistons, metal head gasket apart from a boost controller, spitfire coilpacks, turbo timer and 2.5inch exhaust with Cat it's stock. Looking at advice on a series of upgrades. Would really appreciate input regarding Haltec Elite, Greddy Plentum,Fuel Rail, Blitz Front mount intercooler, Tein Coilovers and best slotted discs. Cheers 🥂 Dan
- 11 replies
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- ecu
- intake manifold
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Hi. I have been trying to figure out what wcu's that cross over the same harnes, but whatevwr i google i don't realy get a good answer. I have truble with my rb25det s2 4wd auto car, and want to try to use a Manual ecu in it to se if it migth help with the problems im having, problem is that i have no idea what ecu that wil work with the engien. And yes i do know that the gearbox wont shift on its own if i put a manual ecu in it,
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Hello, this is definitely my favorite forum. I always manage to resolve my issues when I come here! However, I’m dealing with a problem I’m not sure how to address. I’m hoping to receive pointers or guide on my quest to solve this issue. Issue: On cold start, my swapped 180sx with an rb25det will crank and idle normally, but as soon as it starts warming up. There’s a subtle backfire, little pops if you will. At operating temperature, the idle begins to fluctuate up and down between 800-1200RPM. Eventually, only when fluctuating RPM it will drip my 150A breaker at the battery and the g4+ ecu will lose power and shut off. Or the ECU will shut off without dripping the 150A breaker and everything else stays on: radio, fuel pump, gauges, etc. Questions: 1. What may cause the ECU to turn off? 2. How to I measure voltage to the ECU? 3. Is it possible there is a short causing the current surge to drip the breaker and make the ecu behave erratic? 4. Anything I should check? Parts installed before problem began: • GTR R35 Coilpacks • Bosh donut knock sensors • PRP trigger kit • 270A alternator • LINK G4+ lambda CAN wideband sensor I did drive the car with all parts installed with one issue. The ECU had a wideband sensor overheated code, which I resolved by addding a 200uF 12V capacitor. Other than that, I didn’t deal with issues until this. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi everyone, really hoping someone can help me with an issue ive been having! Ive been battling this for a while not with my 2001 300GT (VQ300DD). I have a constant current draw on my battery which drains it if I leave the terminals connected for a more than a few days, battery seems fine if I just unplug it whenever im not using it I disconnected negative terminal and measured current draw across the battery with everything off and it is ~400mA. I understand this should be closer to ~50mA. I trawled the internet for wiring diagrams and the only one I could find was a Russian version, ive attached a screenshot below and labelled what I think are relevant sections. I pulled fuses and discovered the issue with the 15A fuse that controls quite a few components.. From the fuse I went to the relay labelled 1 located in the IPDM cluster and put a jumper across coil terminals first and then relay terms. I discovered that the fault was on the relay circuit and not the coil circuit, this lead me to believe that the issue could lie with the components labelled as group 3 below. Im realising now that group 2 is off this circuit as well which I haven't checked.. Group 3 consists of MAF sensor, camshaft position sensors and crank shaft sensor. I pulled all the wire harnesses on these but did not see any change in current draw so concluded these to not be the issue. I then unplugged the ECCS labelled 4 and the current dropped to ~130mA From here Im not too sure how to proceed, does this mean my ECU is bad or could it be any other device connected to the ECU?? Im reluctant to buy a replacement ECU before being certain I know where the fault lies.. Im also curious as the current draw is still slightly higher than expected.. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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I was taking apart the ecu from my R33 getting ready to put the Link G4 in when I found it has been socketed. Would anyone know anything about it? It was running a N1 engine if it matters, I only noticed that it has no speed limiter and 9000rpm limit.
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Pulled off an R33 GTST, will suit RB20/25/26, won't work on a NEO. installed into an R33 S2 ECU housing, comes with the USB cable Will post at buyers expense. Chasing $1000 ono
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Hi all, I currently have a Stagea running the undesirable Hitachi 23740-0V110 ECU (S1.5 RB25DE NEO AWD AUTO) which is not compatible with a Nistune daughterboard. I also own a JECS 23710-0V800 ECU (S2 RB25DET NEO AWD MANUAL) with a Nistune daughterboard installed. Both the 23740-0V110 and 23710-0V800 feature the same grey connector. However I've seen people comment that Stagea ECU's come with different pinouts although using the same grey connector. Is anyone able to confirm that there are differences in pinouts between the ECU's, and if so, are you able to provide any information on the differences? Here's hoping that it's just nay say and my Nistune ECU will plug in without trouble.
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Hey guys trying to get some advice for where to go with problem solving on my stagea, its one of the dreaded 08/97 built cars that have an ecu they ran for only one month apparently. pretty much the problem is the car is idle hunting badly running rich and rarely but sometimes stalling at idle and then under power it will stutter and cut out untill i clutch out taking load off. The previous owner had it manual swapped from an auto and the issues started from there as i found from the mechanic who serviced it. if someone could help with a pin out sheet or advice on which ecu to go with or if theres. Something i should replace i would much appreciate it.
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Wolf 3D v4 ecu - standalone plug in for the R33 gtst. In good working order; also comes with 2 versions of the PC software (later version obviously more features, 3d mapping, and datalogging), 2x base maps, and an ecu>laptop cable with a QUALITY usb>serial converter cable (the white n blue one with gold connectors in the pic, is as-new, and was $70ish just for the cable). $300, and can post anywhere in Aus at buyer's expense, or pickup if local.
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qld Brand new r34GT-T link ECU and 1000cc injectors
Guest posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
For sale! Brand new link g4+ PnP ECU With airtemp sensor and XS loom. $2100 Brand new 1000cc Bosch injectors 14mm 3/4 length Come with plugs Set of 6 $600 Will do both for $2500 Located Brisbane -
As topic says, was kinda surprised when i found this. Do this affect power steering and hicas?
- 4 replies
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- ecu
- speed sensor
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I have just bought a r34 and was wondering as the ecu in the r34 is bust Wether I could buy a r32 ecu and use that instead. Is that possible ? Or a r33 ?
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Hi all, New member here. Loving the info on here. Have been using lots of it for my rb25det neo swap. I have an rb25det neo from a c35 laurel. It was previously auto with a 4wd gearbox. I have been unable to find specific documentation about the ecu from scouring the internet. I have managed to find a manual in Russian but that doesn't help much. My question is this. Does this ecu vary significantly from that found on a rb25det neo pulled from an r34 ? I will include pictures of the ECU asap. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
- 1 reply
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- ecu
- rb25detneo
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Hi guys, selling a used motec m800. Has logging enabled and thats about it. Asking $2500 Located in Melbourne Vic. Willing to post Australia wide Cheers, Christian 0423 756 123
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Hi all, just wondering if anyone would be able to point me in the right direction to locating the sensor which is connected to the rev tachometer. Any help is much appreciated
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Hey guys, looking to buy (relatively inexpensive if possible lol) an RB20DET automatic ECU. I can't locate one online and the majority that come up end up not being compatible because they're listed wrong and the serial number is for a manual. Any help is appreciated. I can't find any support in the US. I'mean certain that someone has one or even can go to a pick and pull and get their hands on one. As well need a trans harness for my car. I suspect that the Z32 NA harness will work because it's the same part number transfer though...won't leave to chance. Similarly, instead of starting a new thread, I got an R31 A/T ECU which was used on my R32 by previous owner, ugh. If anyone wants or needs I'll be happy to help out. Maybe we can do an even exchange.
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After doing some digging (and pulling) I've managed to undo the damage done to the R32 and I discovered I had and R31 ECU powering the car. That's all good and great and wonderful except the engine harness for the R31 is different from the R32, dramatically so lol. I've recently finished swapping out the chassis harness, engine harness and transmission harness over to the R32 one. Thank god that's done lol. Now the challenge becomes what to do with the old harnesses and ECU. Don't suppose anyone needs anything? I've posted on eBay however looking to see if anyone wants to take off my hands. MEC-R43 23710 80S11 That being said, still on the hunt for an R32 ECU, has to be A/T which has proven to be difficult (and expensive) to find as of late.
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Brand new MoTeC M84. Only being sold due to upgrade to M1 series. $2,300 without loom shipped anywhere in Australia. Can supply unterminated loom for an additional $250 if bought with the ECU. Full specifics available here; http://motec.com.au/m84/m84overview/ Can run up a V8 or Quad Rotory Motor. Has onboard Lambda and 1mg of logging
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nsw/act Nistune Type 2 board
boo5td_6 posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
For sale - $200 Firm Cheers -
Have a factory 5 Speed ECU for a GTT. Was going to Nistune it but ended up selling the car last year. $125 Loacted in Penrith Area.
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Hey guys, I have a bunch of bits and pieces for sale to suit R32 gtr's that are no longer needed. Located in Adelaide, but more than happy to post ifeel free to pm me or message my mobile on 0412 618 558 f you have any questions. Open to reasonable offers as well guys. APEXi Power FC D-Jetro to suit R32/R33 GTR $1250 - Brand new , just not needed now that I've decided to go in a different direction. Includes complete D-jetro wiring kit (harness, sensors, and nipples). HKS AFM Replacement pipes $250 - Brand new, was to be used with the d-jetro ecu above. Will do the above two for $1400 if sold together GReddy twin 60mm A pillar guage holder $100 - To suit R32s Genuine R32 GTR N1 boot lip $300 - Primed and ready to paint, the original threads to bolt it down are still there as well. Nismo G-MAX Spec 1 twin plate clutch $250 - Pull type, to suit late model R32 & R33 GTRs. Still 3.3mm of meat left on the plates (limit is 2.7mm according to nismo) so still a bit of meat but may be better suited to just rebuild it anyway. Any Questions don't hesitate to message me
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What aftermarket ecu's are people running in their 98' R34 four door? I'm still stock as a button auto and wondering How others went with bypassing the immobiliser? Cheers!