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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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Freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo, all done by the one shop except for the machining, so the reassembly/rebuild, bed in on the dyno, and final tune. So far have done just under 1000kms since getting it back, and then this tick started happening. Was a bit quieter the other day when it started, took it to the shop to have a look, was told it was likely the VCT gear had shit itself because of where the tick was situated, and to take it home, i drove home cautiously and havent driven it since, but started it up today and it was suddenly louder and more rattly. The shop is taking it back later this week to see what the go is, has anyone else had a ticking like this? Sounds like its in the head, the spun bearing it had before getting rebuilt was a deeper knock and definitely down in the bottom if the engine, different to this, its alot higher pitched Thanks in advance people! IMG_0302.mov
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rb26 Running RB26 Long Block
Shortyesquire posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Selling the RB26 long block out of my 1999 Stagea S2 260rs restomod project. Basically planning to replace the long block with a Tomei/N1 RB28 stroker, but keep all the ancillaries to take it back to stock if need be. Car has done 200k kms, but has good compression (>160psi) on all cylinders, and has good oil pressure with Penrite 10-50. I've just replaced the belts and water pump. Can get my mechanic (an independent Nissan GTR specialist) to confirm. Will include sump, valve, ignition and timing covers. Won't include intake manifold, ITBs, exhaust manifolds, turbos, clutch etc. The car is running nicely and I'm happy to take people for a test drive in Sydney. Looking for $12,000 but negotiable. SMS or call me on 0411953301. Cheers, Andrew -
Hey guys. So my bottom end has a potential issue, engine comes out to drop the sump later this week to see exactly what, has a bit of a knock on cold start up that goes away. My heads were recently done due to a found exhaust valve leak, so upgraded springs and retainers, and upgraded drop in cams while it was out. Heads went back on and we found the bottom end was knocking at high RPM (not very loud as was heard through the knock box and ear muffs) when they were doing a dyno run with the new head on. Car hasnt been started up again since I have the option to purchase a freshly machined and honed RB25DET block, with a R34 GTR RB26 Crank, Nitto rods, nitto oil pump, new head studs, main studs, new main bearings for $3500, will need to get my own pistons though as he used the pistons for his RB25/30 build he ended up doing instead, and has had the built block sitting for a while and wants to clear it out. Block had only been assembled for test fitment of everything, then pulled apart so he could use the Nitto Pistons he had in his RB30 build OR Get my current RB25DET Neo bottom end fixed up, possible machining, new bearings, new rings, etc etc. Wasnt looking to do forged internals but could go down that track Was looking to make 300-350 rwkw for now, maybe 400rwkw, as I do have all supporting mods already outside the engine to go to that power (besides the turbo but will upgrade that while im at it) Will i see much of a difference using the RB26 internals? I know the crank has a longer stroke, what advantages will I see and is it worth just getting the almost-ready-to-drop-in bottom end and going with that, or freshening up my stock Neo bottom end? thanks in advance
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Hey guys. So took my car to a local tuner/mechanic to get it looked over, showed low compression cylinders 5 and 6, they did a leak down test, showed exhaust leak was the culprit. Rest of the cylinders were around 160PSI on average. Only issue i had with the car was with the A/C on, when it was a really hot day, and car was warmed up, when the AC belt engaged/disengaged, the revs would drop a little briefly and before the revs picked back up it dropped enough to stall out, also happened occasionally when going from 3rd to 2nd and i did a slow gear change, the revs would drop and engine would stall briefly until i released the clutch and the engine turned over. With A/C off it wouldn’t do that at all. This particular shop unfortunately didnt have the time to do the work for quite a while due to some race events coming up and the cars they were working on for those, so went to another shop that had a bit of a shorter time before i could get in, and had good reviews. They took the heads off, got it machined, serviced, new head studs, new gaskets, upgraded the valve springs and retainers, upgraded the cams, put it all back together. Theyre now getting about 120-130PSI across all cylinders, car really struggles to start up, and is making only 180kw ATW on 20PSI of boost, and previous owner who had all the work/tune done had 300kw ATW when he got a dyno test done Is there something shonky going on? How can the PSI drop so bad across the 4 front cylinders that were ok originally?
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Hey guys so after a comp test my engine has busted rings leading to 40psi. So I’ve taken them all apart. I’m the first owner in aus from Japan. My rods don’t all line up properly in numerical order. Also my piston caps have been stamped. Does this mean this engine was rebuilt with stock parts at some point ?
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Hey everyone, I just thought I should ask everyone’s opinions on my problem. I plan on buying a Datsun c211 as a project. It will be my first project car and I don’t know what engines will fit without any major changes. Such as if any rb engines would fit? thanks in advance to anyone that can help and I look forward to reading your advice.
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Hello I need a new RB26 block as my current one has a coolant leak near the rear welsh plug Does anyone have a bare block available??? Cheers Wayne
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Hi, after a r34 rb25det neo engine complete with all bolt ons, wiring loom and ecu. the lower the km and unmodified the better. Prefer for it to be in Melbourne for inspection and pickup. Thanks
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Brand new Nissan N1 RB26 Block for sale Still in the box and original packaging. Kudos Motorsport (no stock) RhdJapan (no stock) Nengun (no stock) Justjap - (no stock) $6499 Price $5500. Located Morebank NSW 2170 for pickup or can ship at your cost. -
Hey guys i made a post in the past about a strange noise my motor has been making on the dyno. It is only heard through the knock sensor when listening in to it, and starts bang on 5krpm and stops around 5.5k every run without fail. Almost sounds like a very fast ‘ddrrddrrddrrddrr’ (best way i can describe the noise on here). Cannot be heard just listening normally. The ECU is picking this noise up and pulling timing occasionaly because of it, but me and my tuner are stumped as to what it is. It appears to be coming from somewhere in the head area of the motor (at least thats what it sounds like). I’m coming here to look for advice on where to look. The cambelt has just been done with all new pulleys is etc, and has been done properly as I was lead to believe that could be a potential culprit. Disabling the VCT does not affect it, noise is there whether that is on or not. Has anyone else had experience with this or any advice on what it could be? Tuner is thinking it may be my intake cam gear, but has never heard of them failing before. Should also add compression is fantastic on all 6 cylinders, and car only has 105,000kms. Any advice and input is much appreciated!
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Hey everyone, My oil filter housing flange is cracked and I have a nasty oil leak as a result. I've had a look around everywhere for replacement parts and advice on what to do but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for. From my research I have the following options: 1. Weld the crack - not recommended as the housing is aluminium and oil tends to get trapped making it even harder to weld. 2. Relocate oil filter using kit - seems like a good option but then I have to relocate the oil cooler as well. Also is there any additional wiring needed for the sensors (oil temp and pressure) due to the relocation? 3. Install a sandwich plate - another seemingly good option, but also deletes the oil cooler. I guess with this one the sensors can stay where they are (just get installed into the sandwich plate)? 4. Use a housing from a different engine such as an RB30 - not too sure about this one. What are the differences between them? Ideally I'd love some advice from someone who has done this before but at this point any advice would help. I liked the idea of the sandwich plate the most but I've been told it's not as simple as just putting in a new stud, installing the sandwich plate and sensors and screwing in the filter. Any thoughts on this? Alternatively if anyone has a blown RB25DET that they are parting out please let me know! TIA
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Hi all, I’m planning on chucking an rb25de series 2 package in my 1992 gts r32. It comes with loom ecu etc but I was wondering if I would still need to change anything around to accomodate for the different series engine. I’m currently running... well was running an rb25de series 0. Cheers ?
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Hey guys I'm looking at ordering a replacement engine from these guys and I've heard a few good things and a few bad things about them (The bad things were quite a while ago and i imagine they'd of cleaned their act up if they wanna stay in business) I'm looking at $2,200 For the Engine and $200 for Freight to the Mechanic in NSW i was told its been compression tested and has 175 across all cylinders and 94,000 km/s on it its a RB25DET S2 out of a Stagea and they said it comes with Start-Up Warranty (If it makes any strange noises once its dropped in or is down on compression i can send it back for a full refund.) Just wondering if any of you have any recent experiences with them and if so are they good/bad experiences Thanks in Advance http://www.brisbanemotorimports.com.au/
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I'm assuming its a circuit breaker however the way its been wired up makes me think I'm wrong.
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Okay guys, so originally I was planning on putting an NA Barra into my R33. However,my dad has a 1jz gte lying around in the garage with pretty much everything there for it, including the r154 gearbox. Im pretty interested in buying it off him and putting it into the R33, but the problem is that I’m just getting onto my P plates haha. I was wondering if there would be any problems taking this from a TT motor to an NA. I know there are a few oil drains including the one on the block and the sump which are for the turbo and would need to be blocked, but also some other things I wouldn’t really know about hahaWiring and the fabrication stuff is not really a problem, because I know people who can do that for me. I know it does seem odd, but I was just wondering if anyone has something to add or give me any tips or share some insightful knowledge. thanks guys. -
Hello all! After removing my immobiliser and swapping out a faulty HEC, im now left with a car that starts, runs fine but won't cut the ignition signal when the key is removed / ignition barrel is disconnected from the loom. When the battery has been disconnected THEN reconnected, i have no voltage coming from wire 3 (ignition wire) when probing (with the harness connected, as expected.) However, when the ignition is switched on (by turning the key in the barrel) the signal is closed and the circuit is complete, but it will not open the circuit when the key is switched back to off and even when the circuit is opened by removing the ignition barrel harness. This circuit will remain complete until either the battery is disconnected, or the IGN-1 relay is removed from the HEC unit. I was originally under the impression it was a short to voltage, but when i realised it only occurs once the barrel has been turned and not so much as soon as the harness is connected to the battery i'm stumped. I've tried identifying any relays installed complimentary to the immobiliser, but can't find anything hidden up under the dash or in the engine bay, any help or pointers is appreciated and ill attach the relevant diagrams, including a complete body and engine harness diagram as a pdf. any pointers and help is appreciated! thanks for your time! r31_service_manual_ti_diagram.pdf
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Look at videos on youtube the timing chain sits straight across the top with no 'U' shape in the middle between the 2 camshafts. but mine seems to have some play. (Keep in mind when i opened the engine there was no upper chain timing guide, apparently i need it but im not sure. Do I need it? is it a must?) 20191123_151122[1].mp4 20191123_151122[1].mp4
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Hey guys, I am new here. Seems there is a little bit difference. The carbon fiber one is for rb25, and another one is stock on rb25neo. -
Had to jump start my car after being away for 2 weeks, and when the car warmed up the idle would start dropping every 7ish seconds, and when it dropped the car would start shaking and a metal grinding sound was coming from the engine, sounds like as if you were slowly drilling through a piece of metal for about a second, and would then rise again. Never did this before, I could feel the grinding when the idle dropped when I put my hand on the intake piping. Was too scared to drive it after that. Any ideas?
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Pretty much as the title says, I have a 97 R33 and the engine does not like to idle comfortably. On start up and warm up it revs itself to 1.5 to 2k which I assume is pretty standard but once it is warm it will drop right down to 300 to 500 (going by the tach it might be slightly higher but not much) and feels like it's a Cummins instead of an RB. The worst part is rolling up to a set of lights, if I don't engine brake the whole way it will stall and I have to blip the revs whenever I have the clutch in. Once it recovers it will idle, but will feel rough (usually around 700, slow enough that the aircon doesn't really work, also another problem I have with the car, the aircon won't be cold lower than 1.2 to 1.5k rpm, I assumed this was a part of the previous issue). The exhaust also smells quite fuely. The car is pretty much stock apart from a front mount, BOV (which is set to full recirculation anyway) and a pod filter and always runs 98 I do plan on eventually putting a haltech or equivalent ecu once I find the funds but that could be years off so any help fixing this would be great, Thanks in advance Joe
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can someone please help me i removed my exhaust cam pulley and i don't know how to set it back correctly.
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I have a RB30 with neo head and 3.4l stroker kit. A couple of mornings ago I started it like I do every morning to warm up before going to work. It was idling and just shut off for some unknown reason and wouldn't start up again. I thought it may have been the battery as it was only cranking at 9.3v, however I charged it and the voltage increased. So using the charged battery and also jumping off another car I tried to start it, no luck. Next I checked the fuel lines to make sure it's getting fuel, all good. Then I checked all the coil packs, all were sparking. Then I took all the plugs out and replaced them. Still no luck. The old plugs were covered in what seems like oil, I'm 99% sure it's oil (Picture Attached). I know very little about automotive but I do believe that's not a good sign. I tried cranking after replacing and the new ones were also covered in whatever it is. The engine has less than 10k on it. So the guy that built it reckons it's my immobilizer stopping it, but I haven't had a problem with it ever until now. The crank angle sensor, possibly? I have hooked up the ECU to check for error codes to no avail. Bit more about the car: Port & polished Garrett GTW6262R 1.15AR Flex tuned to 50% ethanol Haltech Platinum Pro ECU with IQ3 Splitfire Coilpacks Turbosmart FPR/Wastegate/BOV Also my oil light kept flicking on every now and then, although the oil seemed fine, may have something to do with it? This is driving me crazy, I'm not in a great financial position to take it to be looked at, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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LF a running RB30e or a S2 RB25Det in S.E Melbourne. Thank you
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So like i have an rb25det in a nissan laurel,and it has a transmission hooked up to it.since i bought the car it had an issue whereby when accelerating,the car seemed to be slow and sluggish,like if it was lacking air,and after a while it drived like normal,also it had an idle problem (only when in drive not park)the car would give a bad idle as if it had bigger cams,(not that it had any).This idle problem wasnt constant though,it happened randomly.But when the accelerator was floored it ran like a beast.however i recently had a problem when i put the car into reverse.immediately it would shut off.no bogging nothing just cuts off as if i turned the key off.i was wondering if yall could shoot some ideas my way.Thanks in advance -
all items located in blakeview SA - RB25DET motor that has been previously opened as I intended to forged rebuild it, I had to move interstate so I loosely bolted it back together as the moving company wouldn't move an engine but they would move the car with or without it. the engine does need to be rebuilt and will come with new rings and bearings, the intake manifold, throttle body, nismo 555cc injectors, a tomei cam gear on the exhaust side, gates racing timing belt. the motor was on 107xxxKM before it was stripped. the motor DOES need to be re built $700 ONO or 800 with crane and stand I also have a few other parts as well: -extreme 6 puck solid button clutch with a extra heavy duty pressure plate, used but in near new condition - $300 ONO -SPOOL H beam forged conrods to suit RB25 and 26. - $500 ONO - SCA engine crane and stand, for both $250 ONO -standard RB25 coil packs. $50 ONO - R33 RB25 engine loom. $50 ONO - all off RB25: starter motor power steering pump alternator aircon pump flywheel R32 engine mount brackets STD AFM cam angle sensor clutch fan ↑ all $20 each or make an offer I am open to offers but please don't waste my time with ridiculous offers, feel free to ask any questions PM me on here to get in touch
