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Showing results for tags 'engine swap'.
Found 15 results
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Just wondering if someone could help me out, my V35 250GT Sedan is starting to consume about a litre of oil a week and blowing out large amounts of white smoke so it looks like time for a new engine. I'm considering a VQ35DE from a 350GT Coupe as I can't find a 2.5 litre and not sure if it's a direct fit? Is there much work involved? Thanks.
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Hey guys! Does anyone know the process of registering an engine swapped car in NSW? Provided the engine swap and all mods have been fully certified and I have an engineers certificate, what are the next steps to follow, to register the car? A quick google search says to change the engine details of my car with Service NSW?, i need the following - your proof of identity your current registration details one of the following: a Vehicle Compliance Certificate (if applicable) AUVIS (unregistered vehicle inspection report) HVAIS (heavy vehicle unregistered vehicle inspection report and heavy vehicle safety check inspection report) the PDF form – 'Change of Records'. Does anyone have experience doing this? Are these the proper steps to follow? Just take the documents and head into Service NSW? Any ideas on fees associated with the process? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Hey all, Picked up a manual 370gt not long ago. Have purchased BC BR coilovers and will be doing new bushings all round and front & rear sway bars shortly. My car is just shy of 200k kms but she still pulls hard and feels very tight all round. I was hoping to get your opinions on what FI route I should take. Option 1: Replace gallery gaskets and mid mount single turbo my existing VQ37. Using SOHO motorsports' single turbo dyno as a guide, I'd be looking at approx 600WHP and 600nm wheel at 5k RPM. Ride this motor out till it dies then put in a new VQ when the day comes. Option 2: Sell my VQ and do a VR30DDTT swap. I've been extensively researching this swap and know of 3 370z swaps, two 350zs and one 350gt (US so G35). I can't see why a 370gt should be too different to a 370z. The OEM motor mounts can be retained, I'll need a z1 adapter plate for my JK41A transmission, q60 ecu, harness, engine room harness, CANBUS module, custom intakes, lower downpipes, heat exchanger and tune. This will net me less HP - approx 450whp but more torque at lower RPMs for more RPMs - 675nm wheel at 2.5k to 4.5k. Putting aside sourcing parts, labour and installation timeframes, what would be your preference for a daily driver/occasional track visit car? Boosted VQ for 600WHP with a lower, shorter, later torque curve or a VR30 with 150 less HP but significantly better torque delivery? Any shop recommendations in Sydney, Wollongong, Newcastle or Canberra? Would love to hear your thoughts Al -
So in my possession is a R32 GTST with a swapped RB25 DET in it. I didn’t do it, I bought it like that. I had to buy a new intake manifold as the old one was made for a RB26 and the TB broke off. I purchased an ISR Manifold with a single TB, which also came with a different fuel rail. Ultimately, it’ll change the entire setup. My issues started when my phone reset itself and I lost all my pics of this project, so I have little to no idea of where hoses are supposed to go, what can be deleted, etc etc. I was hoping to get some help with both installing this manifold and cleaning up the bay by deleting lines/parts I no longer need. note: I have a 4 bolt AAC valve connected to a part (idk the name, it’s circled in the pics) and the new manifold has a 3 bolt setup. the fuel injectors I have on hand that fits the new fuel rail doesn’t fit the existing plugs in the wire harness (I was thinking of getting adapters from wiring specialties) I have new intercooler piping that’s supposed to go with this.
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Okay guys, so originally I was planning on putting an NA Barra into my R33. However,my dad has a 1jz gte lying around in the garage with pretty much everything there for it, including the r154 gearbox. Im pretty interested in buying it off him and putting it into the R33, but the problem is that I’m just getting onto my P plates haha. I was wondering if there would be any problems taking this from a TT motor to an NA. I know there are a few oil drains including the one on the block and the sump which are for the turbo and would need to be blocked, but also some other things I wouldn’t really know about hahaWiring and the fabrication stuff is not really a problem, because I know people who can do that for me. I know it does seem odd, but I was just wondering if anyone has something to add or give me any tips or share some insightful knowledge. thanks guys. -
What parts can i swap over? This year im engine swapping an RB26 into my 25gt and was wondering what parts i can keep? can i re use the cam angle sensor from my rb25 neo as well as the radiator? any help is greatly appreciated thanks.
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Nissan patrol RB30 engine swap Hi , Looking for a mechanic or shop who can swap my Nissan patrol RB 30 over for a turbo Neo motor ? Anywhere from northern NSW to Brisbane would be great. Cheers
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Which R34 best fit for RB26? If one wanted to put a RB26 into a non GTR skyline, which R34 would have the easiest time to do it? I figured the GTT however that is RWD so I heard it was difficult to get the transmission to work. I know the GT-FOUR is AWD, can you use the tranny from the GT-4 with a RB26 or at least will the floor be more accommodating for an RB26 and RB26 transmission you think? Is there another R34 that would be better to fit or is it easy to use the RB26 with the RWD GTT tranny? Cheers, I'm in Canada btw and posting here because this forum seems to have the least flame out of the skyline forums.
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So I'm about to buy an old Nissan 300zx for 1500 and put a rb26 in it. It will be my dd(dont ask why I need a 450hp dd) and it will need to be reliable. here are the mods I plan to put in it. Just a disclaimer im a huuuge noobie with cars. on the list the ones that dont have specific parts I havent decided what part. turbo - garret 2560r OR hks gtss fuel pump intercooler - garret core cooler(not sure which one) ecu - power f clutch cams - tomei pon cams Here's some tuff i might get: flywheel, head gasket, air flow meter, exhaust, transmission, and intake So my actual questions, are these necessary? do I need more? where do I find these parts? should I get them used? Should I try to do the work my self? Is there a better car or engine I could use? could I find a shaker hood scoop to go with this? Also i havent bought anything so if your thinking "why is he getting that?" please correct me. So like i said im a noob so car people will bitch at me thats fine just correct me as well. -
6.0 Litre in vx ss Hey guys i have a 2001 vx ss with no motor now and I'm currently looking at installing a ls2 Can you guys just give me a hand at telling me what id need CHEERS.
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CA powered car, original bottom end, but with fresh headgasket and ARP studs. 143ks, and still has fairly decent compression 155-160 cold (new is 172) though as with all Nissan's it likes to pressurise the sump - I run dual catch cans to help this, top and and bottom end vented to atmo separately via baffled cans. Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets also fresh, a few seals been replaced around the place also, rockers, half moons etc, but some things still leak. At the last event for the year, it blew a coolant line to the turbo and drained the radiator, no big deal as I was planning on changing out the T28 BB and going E85 on an externally gated GTX2860R and some 256 cams anyway (Just acquired the cams and already have the turbo). Still need external gate, injectors and to modify the manifold to take it all (turbo is T3 and vband rear so will need different manifold flange, dump, and intake). Given I will be removing the manifold anyway, I considered removing the engine to replace the 28yr old hoses all over the place that are difficukt to get to otherwise and tidy up some of the loom/connectors which are also a bit worse for wear (race tape holding them on etc). Engine also has minor front crank, and rear main seal leak - though I did replace the rear main when I did I the clutch, so could actually be higher up on the back of the motor as the half moons are notorious for leaking even though they are new, as are the rocker gaskets. Oh, also has a small weep from the speedo sensor on the box where the mounting surface was scored, has new extension housing seal but also appears to be maybe leaking from there, already has new upper seal around shifter etc and doesn't appear to be a breather issue. So now I'm tossing up what to do. 1: Continue with turbo swap and retune, do nothing else., drive til it dies, ignore leaks, do things after it's dead. 2: Continue with turbo swap but pull motor and put fresh hoses in, fix leaking front and rear seals, do what I can for connectors, new water pump and accessory belts and clean up anything else obvious (Car already has new timing belt). 3: Pull motor, do all of the above but also freshen up the bottom end, just a basic Spool forged kit or something, but that means new headgaset and full disassembly etc. The Nissan has been let out also. 4: Acquire decent second hand forged CA, they do turn up, freshen up anything needed (I just mean seals/belts), put back in with new turbo setup, sell old motor running. 5: Pull motor, replace with freshened up or 2nd hand forged SR (probably blacktop for the VCT and being newer sensors). Probably wouldn't bother going through the hassle of a swap for a stock SR. This would mean buying different cams, ECU swap, different radiator, wiring work, better coilpacks (I have splitfires for the CA), dick around with cluster, change bell housing, not sure about clutch etc etc. Sell current motor running and all my CA shit. The CA has been good to me and keeps me in a class I can be competitive in, but she is getting on in age and the boys and I are considering trying to do 5 rounds of a series next year, I'm thinking about what I can do in the off season to make next year easier. I am a jew on this car also (car is still 4 stud for example), the GT-R gets love and $$, The Sil makes do with second hand parts, shit from other silvia's/skylines a upgrades and DIY shenanigans Kinda leaning towards 2 or 4. Though the extra mid range torque and response of the bigger SR would be great for track work - even if they do sound like shit and that's not up for debate. -
Hi all, I’m planning on chucking an rb25de series 2 package in my 1992 gts r32. It comes with loom ecu etc but I was wondering if I would still need to change anything around to accomodate for the different series engine. I’m currently running... well was running an rb25de series 0. Cheers ?
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Got a new RB25DE S2 from an R33 to put into a R32 which came with a RB25 S0 engine. What are the differences in the looms What connectors do I need to swap around WIll I need any other computer or whatever to get VCT or other things running Will I need a R33 front end body loom with fuse box to do this? I'm so lost and need help, I have a whole bunch of loose plugs on the ECU side of the loom which I don't know what to do with and I'm worried I may miss solenoids etc if I start changing connectors. I also have a second plug with 6 pins extra on the fuse side of the engine loom which I don't know what to do with either. Are there any diagrams or anything that can help me sort out what goes where? Cheers
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Hey guys, I have for sale an LS1 swap kit for an R34 Skyline. I originally bought it for my 25GT as an alternative to buying a turbo model but unfortunately the kit outlived the car and I've since moved on to a Silvia so have no need for this stuff any more. The kit is top-notch quality made by Fueled Racing in Phoenix, Arizona, guys did an absolutely amazing job putting this thing together. Comes with everything you'd reasonably need to fit an LS1, including headers, engine mounts, custom oil pan, transmission mounts and a single-piece drive shaft, as well as a few other odds and ends. The kit makes use of an S-chassis k-frame for better oil pan clearance and is backed by a 4L60E automatic transmission. Have a tonne of emails from the guys at Fueled detailing the ins and outs of the kit that can be provided if you need but the kit is mostly self-explanatory,what you see is what you get. Unsure as to whether the kit can be utilised in other vehicles, might fit an R33 or Stagea if you're lucky but buy at your own risk. Headers should in theory bolt up to most LS models but can't confirm this. I'm located in Melbourne, Victoria, local pick-up is preferred but can probably organise shipping at buyer's expense. Chasing $3800 but am open to negotiation, would rather not split up the kit if I can help it but hit me up and we can work something out.
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This is based on my own 2630 swap, so some things MIGHT not be covered. PARTS SHORTLIST: Rb25 harmonic balancer, ancillaries and brackets (even AC, if you want it), power steering bracket will likely need to be modified (google rb30det guide) Rb25 OR rb30 sump (either will work fine, though from memory the rb25 sump needs modifying, I've used rb30 sumps multiple times without issue) R33 Rb25 engine mounts (the metal brackets) SHORTENED by at least 15mm (15mm was just enough for my top mount turbo to clear the bonnet without spacers, 12mm would be fine if using a low mount). Be careful as removing any more then ~12mm from the engine mounts will have a factory rb30 sump pan start poking down lower then the subframe. R32 gtr rb26 engine harness (don't need the whole engine bay harness + fuse box etc, engine harness is fine) gtr injector resistor pack (if keeping stock gtr injectors, they're OK for ~280-300rwkw) If you have rb20 coil packs and ignitor they will plug in and work fine, mine did - and still are. WIRING: Pull out the old engine harness, disconnect every plug it goes too gently. Run the rb26 engine harness the same way around the bay and connect everything you can (should be a few connectors in the passengers footwell, wiper motor, etc) Near the factory airbox location, there will be 1 plug on your body loom that fits one of the 2 plugs on the rb26 loom, connect it. The other plug will have 8 pins, 6 of which are in the same "segment", those are all of your injector "power" wires. If using high impedance injectors, just run power to these 6 wires, obviously switched with ignition - if your keeping the GTR injectors you'll need to wire in the resistor pack. the resistor pack will have 1 white and 6 black wires, connect the white wire to an ignition switched 12v source, then join each of the black wires to one of the wires in that remaining plug "segment". Everything in the dash works, no need to swap in a GTR cluster, and the speed dependent power steering also works
