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Ok, so, I've been having problems with starting my 98 R33 Gts-t recently. It can vary from turning over and never firing to starting but running very poorly and stalling to working fine seemingly at random. On more than one occasion, by playing with the fuel pump wiring, fuse or plug the car will start and run perfectly, i do not know if this is the actual problem because it seems so intermittent however, i do know that the car will run roughly/stall without the fuel pump plugged in (I swear I didn't forget to connect it, i was "testing"). If anyone has had a problem similar to this and fixed it that would be great to hear but being vague and intermittent I don't hold much hope. The real meat of this post is, if i were to replace the pump is there a nice drop in replacement that doesn't cost and arm and a leg while not being from the Chinese lucky dip bag on ebay? my other thought was to upgrade to a Walbro 255 (GSS340) or a Bosch 040 because eventually my plan is to buy something reliable and diesel (and high off the ground so ramps aren't necessary for everything ) and throw some money into this car so i figured i may as well plan for power as i'm most likely to get a new car within a year. But i have read mixed things about both the bosch and walbro from a general trawl through the forums, is there a clear winner? Also if i do end up going this option, do I have to upgrade the wiring to the pump and what is the best way to go about this, my thoughts are to use the current power wires to trigger a separate fused relay. Anyway, thanks in advanced for any help Joe

Nismo GT Shift Knob (Urethane) 6 speed - discontinued model. Used but in great condition in box - $210 BNR34 Vspec II Shift knob good condition, slight wear on paint - $200 BNR34 factory carpet mat full set great condition - $550 Nismo fuel cap - discontinued model - $300 Nismo 10pt key - new, uncut, genuine in box - $600 R34 owners manual (GT, GTT) - $100 Postage available at buyers expense. Pics posted later today.

Hey everyone, Trying to resurrect my R32 GTST which now has a rusty fuel tank. Retrofitting a plastic tank from the R32 GTR should be the way to go if I can still find one around. If anyone has some info, a contact, some guidance, it would be greatly appreciated. So essentially I'll be looking for the complete tank with filler neck, pump cradle and cap Thank you very much,

Anyone have a lead on what wires on the R32 fuel pump plug are what. The R32 fuel pump plug is a 6 pole 5 wire plug whereas the R34...well that's just it, I don't know. Backstory, I gutted my R32 chassis and engine harnesses and ran an R34 chassis harness with the intention of running the fuel pump on the R34 connections, low and behold someone snipped the connectors to the fuel pump so now I'm stuck with my dick in my hand trying to sort out what's what. The chassis harness came out of a 4 door GTT, I'm anticipating the R34 dash, instrument cluster and other parts to arrive shortly so I can start doing the swap. My plan (assuming that I'm correct) is to just pop out wires and repin the blue R32 fuel pump plug. From what I am guessing, the R34 fuel pump has two plugs that go to it, a 2 pin and a 4 pin. I could be entirely wrong. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any pictures close up of anyone's R34 fuel pump assembly with the wires. Even so there's still a few plugs missing on the harness that I need to sort out. Anyone with an R34 could be really helpful right now to decipher what's what.

Hi guys and girls, Does anybody have a HR31 fuel pump bracket and sender laying around that they would sell to me? I don't need the pump, just the bracket and sender unit. Thanks, Geoff.

AUSTRALIA now has the distinction of having one of the dirtiest fuel standards in the developed world. Amongst signatories to the OECD – an international economic forum of 35 countries – Australia has the worst record on fuel quality. Mexico, once ridiculed as the only developed OECD member with fuel quality that fell lower than Australia’s, has recently introduced a 50 parts per million level of sulphur – used as a measure of how polluting petrol can be – in unleaded fuel. More on WheelsMag.com.au

So I know I might get judged really badly for this but I need assistance. Like an idiot I filled up my tank with 91 octane because there were no other options since I was driving out of town (I live in a very rural area). I didnt get any issues initially and the car drove fine. However, today the car misfired and my check engine light is now on and is staying on. Could that be because of the fuel or would it be an issue with the coil packs? Please help.

1. New Radium High volume external pump surge tank. $500 2. New JMS FUELMAX single pm2000 40A (boost up voltage from 14v-20v adjustable and ramp in function, active when boost or 5v, much better than kennebell bap) $500 3. A lot New and used aeroflow fittings and silicone hose(an 6 8 10 12 full flow push on hose end, 8 orb-6 8 10an fittings efi fittings, etc) want sale as a package. $500, buy new will cost you over $1200. enough build one car surge tank fuel system. 4. new nitto head drain rb26. $150 5. new platinum rb26 cas bracket. $200 6. used reimax adjustable cam gears. $120 7. 2002 r34 gtr alternator in perfect working condition only 53000kms old. $180 8. nismo thermostat 3000kms old. $40 9. zeitronix E85 ECA. blue readout. without ethanol sensor. $150 (new one cost around $300 shipped to aus) 10. haltech afr gauge. $30 11. reimax rb26 clear timing cover. $60 12. new single and dual billet aluminium gauge holder fit both 52mm and 60mm gauge. $20 single, $40 dual. location : gold coast

What is your favorite aftermarket fuel rail ? I have had Greddy before but the anodize blue / red color got old fast. Went back to stock fuel rail, but stock FPR died so may going back to aftermarket FPR and wanting some clean looking fuel rail delivery setup.

Hi all, has anyone experienced fuel gauge issues below a quarter of a tank? Mine fluctuates wildly but seems to right itself after a bit of driving/sloshing but can drop as low as an 8th and turn the light on but then come back up to a quarter. Annoyingly the DTE under the 'boost leaf' must get its readings from the same sensor as that fluctuates too. Does this model still have a conventional float level sensor? Could it just be dirty contacts?

Hi guys I've seen a couple of threads on this subject but none that answered my specific question. I've had my 2009 370GT (7 speed auto) sedan for over 3 years and 20,000km now and ever since I bought her I've only ever used 91 petrol (the same as I did for my V35 300GT) because I never did any investigating. I have never had any problems running on 91 - she runs smoothly and perfectly, does 0-100 in 5.5 sec, no pinging, rough running etc, and I can consistently get over 600km on a tank with a motorway, city, cruisy and wheel spinning mix of driving. It was only researching about doing an oil change myself (and downloading a US Infiniti G37 manual) that I came upon the concerns about using the wrong fuel. Is it okay to keep on going as is or do I really run the risk of damaging the car? Cheers

Hello Everyone! Have some go fast bits for sale off my R33 some parts are still new. I won't post interstate but willing to travel and meet in Vic. Located in the S. E Suburbs near Keysbourough. No swaps strictly cash only if you require any additional information you may text me on 0409747507. Thank you. Brae manifold $700 ARP Headstuds for RB25det *Brand New* $220 Split fire coil packs *Brand New* $600 2000cc Bosch ID Injectors $420 Tomei Type B Valve Springs RB25det $700 *Brand New* Aeroflow Fuel Rail $130 Twin Plate Ceramic Extreme Clutch $1,200 Haltech Platinum Pro $1400 Also have an R33 manual gearbox that was reconditioned 5,000kms ago new bearings. $1,100

Hey all, It's cold, and i'm tired, and i'm sick of working on my car atm. RB25DET NEO swapper R32 gts-t chassis. Power windows, and the dash (tacho and fuel sender) is not working. Cannot find any wiring diagrams at all for the power windows, i looked through the R32 GTR complete service manual and i cannot find anything for the life of me. Doing shitloads of googling and it seems a few other people on here and GTROC etc etc are having the same issuse. Power windows don't respond to any inputs and they are not getting any power to them. Does anyone have any idea how they get power? It must be pulled from the same spot as the dash gets power from yeah? I will have a look at some wiring diagrams and try and chase it later. I'm just over it at the moment haha Also why is there not an electrical/wiring subforum?

i have an 88’ r31 thats on duel fuel and recently when i change over to petrol the car wont get out of first gear and limits at 2000rpm on gas the car runs like a dream. i don’t think its an injector coz’ its not missing maybe it’s fuel starvation? fuel pump is kinda loud and changed the fuel filter not long ago its got me really stumped.

Don't be another sucker running dual maps, only Paul Walker needs a laptop in his car. Brand new in genuine GM box, connect straight to your aftermarket computer as a diginal input (not analog 5volts). I can show you how to do this. I'm after $350ono, located in melbourne but will post at your cost.

heya guys due to upgrading my engine set up im upgrading the fuel set up i have a polished round 2- 2.5ltr surge tank ready for dash fittings, im going to run duel 044s so want a dual outlet surge tank. $50 may post located northern suburbs S.A

Hi All, I'm chasing a set of 6 fuel injectors for my R34 RB25DET NEO. Prefer a brand new set that you may no longer need! Standard 14mm rail - 3/4 length. Would like to retain the stock wiring loom - so if you have wiring adapters for bosch/ID/Siemens, great! Oh, and I'm chasing the 250-300rwkw mark (still undecided).

Hey guys, Don't need my old stock injectors as i'll be maxxing them out with my next setup, so may as well throw them up here for sale. They were in fine working order when they were used last, will sell with rail for $220. Will seperate, $200 for injectors alone. Can post interstate. Ring me on 0457408477

For sale are some rb26 parts, as i'm putting the standard parts back in before selling my r32 gtr, to fund my new bike and super-motard setup for this year. Posting from townsville. Contact email: [email protected] text: 0434916740 NEW Supertech Pistons 86.5mm/8.5cr $550 All parts below have done just under 8000km. HKS Stage 1 cams with unknown adjustable cam gears $500 Tomie Dump Pipes $400 Spool Rods $450 Ross Tuffbond metal jacket balancer $400 Mines cam Baffles $200 Fuel Rail & Aeroflow fuel pressure regulator $200 RC Fuel injectors 750cc with clips $400 Nismo rb26 oil pump $800 Supertech Dual Valve Springs With ti-retainer $400 (also comes with inner washers to go between head and spring) Old Oem Valves $ make a offer

Several RB25DET fuel rails with regulators. No injectors included. Located Sydney $30 each.

For sale are some rb26 parts from a running r32 gtr. Posting from townsville. Contact email: [email protected] text: 0434916740 NEW Supertech Pistons 86.5mm/8.5cr part no: p6-rb26/86.50-8.5cr $550 All parts below have done just under 8000km. HKS Stage 1 cams with unknown adjustable cam gears INLET, 2202-RN124 Duration 264. Lift 8.7mm step 1 EXHAUST, 2202-RN127 Duration 272. Lift 8.7mm step 1 $500 Spool Rods $450 Obx 11mm Fuel Rail & Aeroflow fuel pressure regulator and fittings $200 RC Fuel injectors 750cc with clips PL4-0750 bosch style clip $400 Supertech Dual Valve Springs With ti-retainer Part number: SPRK-m1007d/rb $400 (also comes with inner washers to go between head and spring)

Hi guys, Got 6 brand new still in packaging Sard 540cc injectors suit RB25/SR20. Come with fitting kit (o-rings, collars, plugs etc) Bought as a precaution and no longer needed. Paid $810, asking $550. Also a brand new still in packaging genuine Bosch Z32 AFM with Tomei plug. Paid $330, asking $250. Can MMS photos as required, or inbox them on Facebook as they're "stuck" on my phone and I can't upload them to the forum from my phone? All items brand new, located in Warrnambool Vic. Contact me on here, or 04 3774 51 FOUR SEVEN Mods please delete my other thread regarding the injectors. Cheers!

So I got around to reading Go Auto news today (yes, it's not the most reputable publishing, but it gets emailed directly to me at work). Turns out that a few days ago, Coles and Woolworths agreed to cease heavy discounts on fuel, as other companies were unable to compete as they did not have separate arms of business to draw the losses from. As a result, Coles and Woolworths have agreed to limit all discounts to 4 cents per litre. I am absolutely astounded that, after all this time spent 'investigating' pump price cycle, price gauging, collusion, and generally having no correlation to Singapore oil prices (even if hedged months in advance), the ACCC have only succeeded in removing predictable price cycles (i.e. we knew Tuesday was the cheapest day to fill up, now it's russian roulette) and to now reduce the discounts that consumers get. Further, these discount dockets only seemed to recover the amount that was artificially inflated by the scheme at the pumps - meaning the consumers have once again been left to bear the prices without protection. I don't mind paying the taxes on fuel (45% or so) but I'm getting pretty tired of the manipulation of pump prices, and the lack of positive action by the ACCC/Fuel Commission. Article link: http://www.goauto.com.au/mellor/mellor.nsf/story2/0280BC0B01715E58CA257C39002350B1

Hi all, This may seem like a relatively easy thing to do, but I have just finished changing mine out and had a ridiculously hard time removing the lines. For anyone wanting to save a few bucks and change it out themselves I just thought this could help them out with this thread. This will be aimed at an R34 rb25det neo, but it's all pretty much the same. (will update with pictures later) Parts required: Ryco Z201 Time taken: Allow 1/2 hour Tools: 1/4 driver ratchet with 10 and 13mm socket Phillips head screwdriver Flat head screw driver Multigrips Vice (can be done without, but EXTREMELY useful) 7/16 or 11/12/13 mm open ended spanner (not needed, but makes the job easier) Rags or container Torch/Light Park the car in a garage/shady spot where you will do the work. Let the car cool unless you want to get burnt (dunno maybe you're into that kind of stuff). Step 1 - Depressurize the fuel system. Inside the drivers kick panel is a fuse pack, revealed by lifting a tab and taking out a rectangular plastic panel. In the top row of the fuses there should be 10 | 10 | 10 | 15 amp fuses. Using needle nose pliers, remove the 15A fuse (should be the one closest to the door). This is the fuse for the fuel pump. Once removed, try to start the car. If it starts, let it run and splutter out, then try to start again. This is just allowing the injectors to inject the remaining high pressure fuel in the system so when you remove the filter there isn't any chance of hydraulic injection. Step 2 - Isolate the car This step isn't absolutely required, but you are working in close proximity and will be leaning over close to the battery. If you don't mind losing your programmed radio stations, it would be a good idea for piece of mind. Step 3 - Removal of the filter I tried just removing the hose clamps from around the filter in/out lines, but if it hasn't been changed in a long time like mine - best of luck to you - I had to wrench the puppy in a vice, which showed that I had no chance while it was still in the car. After long periods of time the rubber retains it's shape where the clamp is, and makes it super tight. Locate the filter on the drivers side of the engine bay. From the in side of the filter, there should be a rubber hose connecting to a metal line via a hose clamp, using a 10mm socket, undo the clamp and let it slide down onto the metal line. Give the line a gentle yank. Not moving? Yeah, neither did mine. The easist way I found was using the 7/16 spanner, slide it onto the metal line and use it to pull the rubber up off the line. PRECAUTION: It will be tight, watch out to not slip and slice yourself on something. PRECAUTION # 2: There WILL be fuel in the line. Not much, but there will be. Don't have any sources of ignition nearby (another reason why having the battery disconnected is a good idea) and rags to clean the fuel. Option 1: Pull it off and use a rag to try capture as much of the fuel. Option 2: Place a container directly under the line on the floor and catch it on the way down. I just let mine drip, I'm a badass like that. From the out side of the filter, it will lead to a fitting near the intake manifold. Remove the clamp, and using a flat head screwdriver - pry it away from the fitting and use the spanner to pull it the rest of the way. Again, there will be fuel in the line. Less this time, but have a rag ready. Your filter should now be free with a line on each end. Take note which way the filter was sitting in the car (hopefully "OUT" was feeding your fuel rail) and what lines go on which end. Step 4 - Change out the filter Place the filter in a vice with one end of the filter where the rubber line starts in line with the edge of the vice. Doesn't matter if you overtighten it, the filter should be going in the bin anyway, Undo the clamp on the line, and using the multigrips twist the line to just free it up. Pry it off with the screwdriver/spanner combo (if it really hard to get off - using 2 flat head screwdrivers and the sides of the vice as leverage points may help. Just watch not to slip and cut yourself). Repeat on the other side, and replace the lines on the new filter - correct lines for IN/OUT, etc. Make sure there isn't any dirt and shit in the lines when you put them on, especially in the out side, as it will be unfiltered straight to your injectors. Step 5 - Replace everything Grab the clamps from the metal line and slide it on the rubber before you install it, makes it a little easier, doesn't matter what order you do it. Don't over tighten the clamps, remember when you removed them they were not overly tight. Remember to grab all your tools from the engine bay, and clean up all the spilt fuel, especially before putting the battery terminal back on. Put the negative back on the battery (yes it may spark, hope you cleaned your mess) and put the fuse back into the correct spot. Before starting your car, turn the key to IGN - the fuel pump has to prime the system (bring it up to operating pressure), so now is a good time to look for leaks. Just check all the lines that you tampered with, make sure nothing is leaking. If it isn't, start your car and away you go! Congratulations, you just saved yourself $50 from a mechanic. If anyone has any input, questions, advice or a better way of doing this, let me know and I can put in on here. Cheers for reading. (Y)

hi everyone i am having a problem atm with my r33 gtst rb25det it has been a problem since i have owned the car even after i have swapped motors. when warm or cold as coming onto wot the car surges from 2000rpm to about 5000rpm then after that it completely frees up. its a bad surge and if i hold wot when it surges it back fires and sounds like there's a front fire ? standard boost well standard setup, has front mount. i have got new plugs gapped at .8 and have swapped coil packs no difference at all timing is at 15 degres and the more timing i give better it gets also has a new walbro hp fuel pump cant remember what models was good for 300 hp tho. but when car is running or fuel pump is primed the fuel line isnt hard hard i can push it half way in . any ideas on what it is guys all help much appreciated ??? thanks for reading