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Hey guys, Don't need my old stock injectors as i'll be maxxing them out with my next setup, so may as well throw them up here for sale. They were in fine working order when they were used last, will sell with rail for $220. Will seperate, $200 for injectors alone. Can post interstate. Ring me on 0457408477

hey just got back from up north jumed in my r34gtt drove it not even10kms and when i took off around a corner medium accelaration it made a wierd sound like the sound it makes if youd try to boot it while tcs is on i then deccelarted and now shes running crazy makes that sound like its missing or sumthing every time i accelarate please help me fix my beautiful machine

r34 gtt rb25neo ok so i just finished installing tomei poncams 260deg 9.15mm lift bosch 040 fuel pump z32 afm bosch 750cc injectors power fc im using the standard fuel rail and plenum i started it up fine but she was puffin the black smoke so i assumed it was running way too rich. it now doesnt start prob flooded and spark plugs all carboned up. i have a power fc and have no clue how to just do a basic adjustment of the settings just so she idles and runs so i can get it out for a test drive and then on the trailer to get it tuned professionally. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Don't be another sucker running dual maps, only Paul Walker needs a laptop in his car. Brand new in genuine GM box, connect straight to your aftermarket computer as a diginal input (not analog 5volts). I can show you how to do this. I'm after $350ono, located in melbourne but will post at your cost.

Hey -Have a brand new bosch 044 with new speedflow -6 barb fittings. -2lt surge tank with barb fittings and pump bracket -ghost auto high flow filter with barb fittings and with bracket $350 for the lot not seperating In sydney

Hey guys, random question, when I'm filling up and I put the bowser nosel all the way in and pull the trigger, the fuel must be getting restricted in the tank and splashing back causing the bowser to click and stop. When filling up I have to shoot the petrol into my tank (literally hold the nosel 5cm away from the hole) and only hold the trigger half way otherwise it'll spill out. Never had this issue in my old R34, and it takes 10-15mins to fill the car up. Any ideas what could be causing this? The car has an aftermarket fuel pump unsure whether its internal or external, although something is restricting the fuel tank opening.... any ideas?

Twin surge tank setup includes all braided lines and fittings, brand new. Pick up Sydney or can post. $400

Hi. For sale. A set of standard RB25 series 2 injectors and fuel rail. No longer needed. Can include the whole inlet plenum for an extra $40. Pick up in Ringwood Melbourne or can post (fuel rail + injectors only). $90 for injectors and rail. $40 for plenum. $120 for both

i have an 88’ r31 thats on duel fuel and recently when i change over to petrol the car wont get out of first gear and limits at 2000rpm on gas the car runs like a dream. i don’t think its an injector coz’ its not missing maybe it’s fuel starvation? fuel pump is kinda loud and changed the fuel filter not long ago its got me really stumped.

Hey all, It's cold, and i'm tired, and i'm sick of working on my car atm. RB25DET NEO swapper R32 gts-t chassis. Power windows, and the dash (tacho and fuel sender) is not working. Cannot find any wiring diagrams at all for the power windows, i looked through the R32 GTR complete service manual and i cannot find anything for the life of me. Doing shitloads of googling and it seems a few other people on here and GTROC etc etc are having the same issuse. Power windows don't respond to any inputs and they are not getting any power to them. Does anyone have any idea how they get power? It must be pulled from the same spot as the dash gets power from yeah? I will have a look at some wiring diagrams and try and chase it later. I'm just over it at the moment haha Also why is there not an electrical/wiring subforum?

Hello, I have an R32 Skyline GTST with an RB25DET. Yesterday I swapped out my stock injectors for new P2M 550cc injectors. I followed a tutorial online step by step, nothing went wrong. Went to start up the car and it cranks but won’t start. Popped off the fuel pressure line and no fuel seems to be going into the rail. I can hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key however. Any ideas? I’m not very mechanically apt when it comes to cars in all honesty, so any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Does anyone know of a fuel pump that I can "directly" replace the factory one with for my N/A r33 GTS. Yes I know there's upgrade kits for more pressure etc, I'm not looking to make power I just want to replace the old pump without messing around with wiring etc, just want to direct swap it for a new one whether it be oem or aftermarket that direct fits to original bracket/wires. Cheers

Hi guys and girls, Does anybody have a HR31 fuel pump bracket and sender laying around that they would sell to me? I don't need the pump, just the bracket and sender unit. Thanks, Geoff.

So I got around to reading Go Auto news today (yes, it's not the most reputable publishing, but it gets emailed directly to me at work). Turns out that a few days ago, Coles and Woolworths agreed to cease heavy discounts on fuel, as other companies were unable to compete as they did not have separate arms of business to draw the losses from. As a result, Coles and Woolworths have agreed to limit all discounts to 4 cents per litre. I am absolutely astounded that, after all this time spent 'investigating' pump price cycle, price gauging, collusion, and generally having no correlation to Singapore oil prices (even if hedged months in advance), the ACCC have only succeeded in removing predictable price cycles (i.e. we knew Tuesday was the cheapest day to fill up, now it's russian roulette) and to now reduce the discounts that consumers get. Further, these discount dockets only seemed to recover the amount that was artificially inflated by the scheme at the pumps - meaning the consumers have once again been left to bear the prices without protection. I don't mind paying the taxes on fuel (45% or so) but I'm getting pretty tired of the manipulation of pump prices, and the lack of positive action by the ACCC/Fuel Commission. Article link: http://www.goauto.com.au/mellor/mellor.nsf/story2/0280BC0B01715E58CA257C39002350B1

Hi guys, Got 6 brand new still in packaging Sard 540cc injectors suit RB25/SR20. Come with fitting kit (o-rings, collars, plugs etc) Bought as a precaution and no longer needed. Paid $810, asking $550. Also a brand new still in packaging genuine Bosch Z32 AFM with Tomei plug. Paid $330, asking $250. Can MMS photos as required, or inbox them on Facebook as they're "stuck" on my phone and I can't upload them to the forum from my phone? All items brand new, located in Warrnambool Vic. Contact me on here, or 04 3774 51 FOUR SEVEN Mods please delete my other thread regarding the injectors. Cheers!

Hi I'm getting a bigger turbo for my gtt and I'm wondering if I need to get an aftermarket ecu and a tune or an apexi afc to controll the air:fuel ratio. Does anyone know what's better for a car ? Also nistune or power fc for an auto? I know there's a lot of threads but they all have different answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Quick question. I've got an r33 gtst. Had a fuel leak on the hose before the fuel filter. Replaced that and the hose after the filter because why not? Now my fuel pump makes a ticking noise on prime up and the car turns over and won't start. I've got flow through the fuel filter. After some trial and error I pulled the fuel regulator off and primed it up and no fuel is getting through the reg. Is the fuel reg stuffed?

For sale are some rb26 parts from a running r32 gtr. Posting from townsville. Contact email: [email protected] text: 0434916740 NEW Supertech Pistons 86.5mm/8.5cr part no: p6-rb26/86.50-8.5cr $550 All parts below have done just under 8000km. HKS Stage 1 cams with unknown adjustable cam gears INLET, 2202-RN124 Duration 264. Lift 8.7mm step 1 EXHAUST, 2202-RN127 Duration 272. Lift 8.7mm step 1 $500 Spool Rods $450 Obx 11mm Fuel Rail & Aeroflow fuel pressure regulator and fittings $200 RC Fuel injectors 750cc with clips PL4-0750 bosch style clip $400 Supertech Dual Valve Springs With ti-retainer Part number: SPRK-m1007d/rb $400 (also comes with inner washers to go between head and spring)

hi everyone i am having a problem atm with my r33 gtst rb25det it has been a problem since i have owned the car even after i have swapped motors. when warm or cold as coming onto wot the car surges from 2000rpm to about 5000rpm then after that it completely frees up. its a bad surge and if i hold wot when it surges it back fires and sounds like there's a front fire ? standard boost well standard setup, has front mount. i have got new plugs gapped at .8 and have swapped coil packs no difference at all timing is at 15 degres and the more timing i give better it gets also has a new walbro hp fuel pump cant remember what models was good for 300 hp tho. but when car is running or fuel pump is primed the fuel line isnt hard hard i can push it half way in . any ideas on what it is guys all help much appreciated ??? thanks for reading

For sale are some rb26 parts, as i'm putting the standard parts back in before selling my r32 gtr, to fund my new bike and super-motard setup for this year. Posting from townsville. Contact email: [email protected] text: 0434916740 NEW Supertech Pistons 86.5mm/8.5cr $550 All parts below have done just under 8000km. HKS Stage 1 cams with unknown adjustable cam gears $500 Tomie Dump Pipes $400 Spool Rods $450 Ross Tuffbond metal jacket balancer $400 Mines cam Baffles $200 Fuel Rail & Aeroflow fuel pressure regulator $200 RC Fuel injectors 750cc with clips $400 Nismo rb26 oil pump $800 Supertech Dual Valve Springs With ti-retainer $400 (also comes with inner washers to go between head and spring) Old Oem Valves $ make a offer

Several RB25DET fuel rails with regulators. No injectors included. Located Sydney $30 each.

Hi all, This may seem like a relatively easy thing to do, but I have just finished changing mine out and had a ridiculously hard time removing the lines. For anyone wanting to save a few bucks and change it out themselves I just thought this could help them out with this thread. This will be aimed at an R34 rb25det neo, but it's all pretty much the same. (will update with pictures later) Parts required: Ryco Z201 Time taken: Allow 1/2 hour Tools: 1/4 driver ratchet with 10 and 13mm socket Phillips head screwdriver Flat head screw driver Multigrips Vice (can be done without, but EXTREMELY useful) 7/16 or 11/12/13 mm open ended spanner (not needed, but makes the job easier) Rags or container Torch/Light Park the car in a garage/shady spot where you will do the work. Let the car cool unless you want to get burnt (dunno maybe you're into that kind of stuff). Step 1 - Depressurize the fuel system. Inside the drivers kick panel is a fuse pack, revealed by lifting a tab and taking out a rectangular plastic panel. In the top row of the fuses there should be 10 | 10 | 10 | 15 amp fuses. Using needle nose pliers, remove the 15A fuse (should be the one closest to the door). This is the fuse for the fuel pump. Once removed, try to start the car. If it starts, let it run and splutter out, then try to start again. This is just allowing the injectors to inject the remaining high pressure fuel in the system so when you remove the filter there isn't any chance of hydraulic injection. Step 2 - Isolate the car This step isn't absolutely required, but you are working in close proximity and will be leaning over close to the battery. If you don't mind losing your programmed radio stations, it would be a good idea for piece of mind. Step 3 - Removal of the filter I tried just removing the hose clamps from around the filter in/out lines, but if it hasn't been changed in a long time like mine - best of luck to you - I had to wrench the puppy in a vice, which showed that I had no chance while it was still in the car. After long periods of time the rubber retains it's shape where the clamp is, and makes it super tight. Locate the filter on the drivers side of the engine bay. From the in side of the filter, there should be a rubber hose connecting to a metal line via a hose clamp, using a 10mm socket, undo the clamp and let it slide down onto the metal line. Give the line a gentle yank. Not moving? Yeah, neither did mine. The easist way I found was using the 7/16 spanner, slide it onto the metal line and use it to pull the rubber up off the line. PRECAUTION: It will be tight, watch out to not slip and slice yourself on something. PRECAUTION # 2: There WILL be fuel in the line. Not much, but there will be. Don't have any sources of ignition nearby (another reason why having the battery disconnected is a good idea) and rags to clean the fuel. Option 1: Pull it off and use a rag to try capture as much of the fuel. Option 2: Place a container directly under the line on the floor and catch it on the way down. I just let mine drip, I'm a badass like that. From the out side of the filter, it will lead to a fitting near the intake manifold. Remove the clamp, and using a flat head screwdriver - pry it away from the fitting and use the spanner to pull it the rest of the way. Again, there will be fuel in the line. Less this time, but have a rag ready. Your filter should now be free with a line on each end. Take note which way the filter was sitting in the car (hopefully "OUT" was feeding your fuel rail) and what lines go on which end. Step 4 - Change out the filter Place the filter in a vice with one end of the filter where the rubber line starts in line with the edge of the vice. Doesn't matter if you overtighten it, the filter should be going in the bin anyway, Undo the clamp on the line, and using the multigrips twist the line to just free it up. Pry it off with the screwdriver/spanner combo (if it really hard to get off - using 2 flat head screwdrivers and the sides of the vice as leverage points may help. Just watch not to slip and cut yourself). Repeat on the other side, and replace the lines on the new filter - correct lines for IN/OUT, etc. Make sure there isn't any dirt and shit in the lines when you put them on, especially in the out side, as it will be unfiltered straight to your injectors. Step 5 - Replace everything Grab the clamps from the metal line and slide it on the rubber before you install it, makes it a little easier, doesn't matter what order you do it. Don't over tighten the clamps, remember when you removed them they were not overly tight. Remember to grab all your tools from the engine bay, and clean up all the spilt fuel, especially before putting the battery terminal back on. Put the negative back on the battery (yes it may spark, hope you cleaned your mess) and put the fuse back into the correct spot. Before starting your car, turn the key to IGN - the fuel pump has to prime the system (bring it up to operating pressure), so now is a good time to look for leaks. Just check all the lines that you tampered with, make sure nothing is leaking. If it isn't, start your car and away you go! Congratulations, you just saved yourself $50 from a mechanic. If anyone has any input, questions, advice or a better way of doing this, let me know and I can put in on here. Cheers for reading. (Y)

The market is saturated with fakes at the moment.... Here's a heads up https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.614011205349032.1073741828.142150452535112&type=1

Selling used R34 GTR injectors ($150) and fuel pump ($75). Were on the car for quite a while (>100k kms). Running fine when in car. Changed to go to E85. Someone wanting both can have them for $188.50. SMS on 0407778421 or PM. Understand injectors will suit: Nissan Skyline BNR32 GTR (RB26DETT, 08/1989 - 01/1995) Nissan Skyline BNR32 GTR N1 (RB26DETT, 10/1991 - 02/1993) Nissan Skyline BNR32 GTR V-Spec (RB26DETT, 02/1993 - 02/1994) Nissan Skyline BNR32 GTR V-Spec II (RB26DETT, 02/1994 - 01/1995) Nissan Skyline BNR32 GTR V-Spec II N1 (RB26DETT, 02/1994 - 01/1995) Nissan Skyline BNR32 GTR V-Spec N1 (RB26DETT, 02/1993 - 02/1994) Nissan Skyline BCNR33 GTR (RB26DETT, 01/1995 - 05/1998) Nissan Skyline BCNR33 GTR V-Spec (RB26DETT, 01/1995 - 05/1998) Nissan Skyline BCNR33 GTR V-Spec N1 (RB26DETT, 01/1995 - 05/1998) Nissan Skyline BNR34 GTR (RB26DETT, 01/1999 - 08/2002) Nissan Skyline BNR34 GTR V-Spec (RB26DETT, 01/1999 - 08/2000) Nissan Skyline BNR34 GTR V-Spec II (RB26DETT, 08/2000 - 08/2002) Nissan Skyline BNR34 GTR V-Spec II N1 (RB26DETT, 08/2000 - 08/2002) Nissan Skyline BNR34 GTR V-Spec N1 (RB26DETT, 01/1999 - 08/2000) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 260RS, Series 1 (RB26DETT, 11/1997 - 08/1998) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 260RS, Series 2 (RB26DETT, 08/1998 - 03/2001)

Up for sale I have stock parts, all in good working condition, all parts came off a 1997 R33 GTST. Make an offer, reasonable offers wont be refused. Standard Series 2 rear wing in silver (working break light included) $40 Aftermarket fiberglass Du-Luck side Skirts (painted silver, small crack but cant be seen when fitted) $80 Boot Lid (no wing, no lock, White) ***FREE*** Standard fuel pump $10 Standard exhaust cam gear $10 Standard injectors $90 Standard rear sway bar $20 Standard ECU $120 Standard cam shafts $50 X-Force muffler $30 Rear series 1 garnish $10 Standard coil packs $120 Standard indicators front guard $10 Standard rear rotors $15 All parts located south east Melbourne Prefer pick up...if not buyer can arrange postage I have photos of all the above parts...message me if you require pictures Thanks