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Showing results for tags 'g4+'.
Found 6 results
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Hello, this is definitely my favorite forum. I always manage to resolve my issues when I come here! However, I’m dealing with a problem I’m not sure how to address. I’m hoping to receive pointers or guide on my quest to solve this issue. Issue: On cold start, my swapped 180sx with an rb25det will crank and idle normally, but as soon as it starts warming up. There’s a subtle backfire, little pops if you will. At operating temperature, the idle begins to fluctuate up and down between 800-1200RPM. Eventually, only when fluctuating RPM it will drip my 150A breaker at the battery and the g4+ ecu will lose power and shut off. Or the ECU will shut off without dripping the 150A breaker and everything else stays on: radio, fuel pump, gauges, etc. Questions: 1. What may cause the ECU to turn off? 2. How to I measure voltage to the ECU? 3. Is it possible there is a short causing the current surge to drip the breaker and make the ecu behave erratic? 4. Anything I should check? Parts installed before problem began: • GTR R35 Coilpacks • Bosh donut knock sensors • PRP trigger kit • 270A alternator • LINK G4+ lambda CAN wideband sensor I did drive the car with all parts installed with one issue. The ECU had a wideband sensor overheated code, which I resolved by addding a 200uF 12V capacitor. Other than that, I didn’t deal with issues until this. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi everyone, I’m relatively new to the RB-series world and definitely new when it comes to timing an engine using G4+ link. My car was running well, and then I decided to take everything apart and powder coat it. The engine bay is looking GREAT! However, I can’t get timing right, the idle is all over the place, and it’s backfiring consistently, which I think is causing the engine to overheat as well. Timing is set at 15 degrees on g4+, but I can’t seem to be able to match that on the crank using a timing light Things I messed with: 1. CAS 2. TPS 3. idle control valve Things I observed: Idle: 1,100 to 2,200 RPM, lost of misfire crank timing: 5 degrees How can I get the CAS (at 15 degrees), TPS, and idle control valve to be happy with each other? Any procedures? I’m here to learn! Thank you, Eric
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qld Brand new r34GT-T link ECU and 1000cc injectors
Guest posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
For sale! Brand new link g4+ PnP ECU With airtemp sensor and XS loom. $2100 Brand new 1000cc Bosch injectors 14mm 3/4 length Come with plugs Set of 6 $600 Will do both for $2500 Located Brisbane -
Hi all, For sale is a brand new never used Link G4+ Thunder ECU. This is Link's top dog ECU which can run pretty much any engine you choose to attach it to. Knock, DBW, VCT/VVT-i/VTEC, Lambda, antilag, traction control, boost control this ECU does it all with ease. https://www.linkecu.com/products/wirein-ecus/g4-thunder/ See above link for more specs. Looking for $2600 and that includes superseal connectors and contact kit and will post anywhere in AUS at my expense. -
Link G4+ topic Hi, Cant find any topic regarding ECU maps, need a help with my maps on LINKG4+ ecu
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R34 25DET NEO dies map sensor reads high until lead is wiggled then will drive fine Is running a link g4+ and a 4bar map sensor, after awhile of driving the car will turn off, I have logged it and found that when it dies the map sensor gives a huge reading which I am guessing is incorrect and the car is flooding or shutting off to protect the engine. How do I go about finding the fault from what I can see the wires look fine
