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Nismo Rear Fender Cover Set $400 Genuine Nismo part for BCNR33, part number in pictures. Discontinued item! They do require a bit of work, nothing a panel beater can't fix. Unfortunately, does not come with mounting hardware. Nismo advises to use screws to attach to fenders. Open to offers, pick up only in VIC, Casey area! Nismo Rear Bumper (S-Tune) $2000 Genuine old logo Nismo rear bar/bumper for BCNR33! Yes Nismo made these out of FRP (stock bumpers on the other hand are plastic)! No major damage, just some chipping on some edges. Not in the best condition, but your trusty panel beater should be able to make it look new and shiny on your 33! Brand new one from Japan will probably set you back over $2000 (mainly due to shipping), however, due to condition I'm open to offers! Pick up only in VIC, Casey area!

It is Genuine GTR's rear emblem. Product information! used condition. please see photos. <Reference vehicle type> ※ For conformity, please check with the manufacturer before purchase. It may not be fitted depending on the grade even by the same model year Compatible model: GT-R R35 Conformity year: 2007 / 11-2009 / 12 it comes with GTR magazine's rare sticker.Item will be sent from Japan. price - 50 AUD (price included Shipping cost to Australia ) I accept paypal. please pm me if interested or my email　is [email protected] Thank You. GTRのリアエンブレムです。 商品情報‼️ 〈参考適合車種〉 ※適合に関して、お求め前にメーカーにご確認下さい。同一車種・年式によってもグレードによって適合しない場合があります。 適合車種: GT-R 適合型式: R35 適合年式: 2007/11-2009/12 GTR magazineのステッカーはレアです。

Genuine Floating Valve BOV Super responsive design. Comes with : Flute for venting to atmo 29mm Recirc adapter Nissan flange plate Weld on flange plate 2 springs, soft and standard Top hat plunger screw for further tunability $55 pick up 2107 or post for $10 0411595640 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/222852129066?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

which one of you fabulous sons of bitches want some pimpin wheels? LOOK HOW f**kING AWESOME THEY ARE! YOU KNOW YOU WANT IN ON THIS SHIT SO GENUINE NOONE WOULD THINK YOUR A TIGHT ARSE P PLATER! 17x9+25 fronts with rwc tyres 17x10+25 rears with f**ked tyres wheels do have some rash, nothing too major that cant be fixed by a wheel shop. no buckles. you know you want these pretty mother f**kers on your ride. i know that you know. $2000 NEG located in LALOR VICTORIA 3075 CALL OR MESSAGE ME ON 0411 421 097

Enkei NT03 Genuine, rare 1st editions Discontinued Lightweight racing wheel (comes with original Enkei centre caps) 5x114.3 pcd 17x7+33 17x8+35 Good condition Shagged tyres $1000 Ono Vic

Just some random bits and pieces for sale and some wheels All items are ono Able to be posted at buyers expense or pickup preferred - R32 Standard Seats with rails - driver and passenger great condition, no rips/burns or marks $160 - R32 GTR Front Grille good condition - gunmetal grey $100 - 10mm 4x114.3 bolt on spacers - pair $50 - Zauber Monoblocks - Full Set 5x114.3 F: 17x9 +12 R: 17x10.5 +5 Great tread on all 4 tyres $1800 - Work Rezax - Full Set 5x114.3 F: 17x8 +5 R: 17x9 +19 Tyres currently dead, can supply tyres on sale $1200 Contact me on my mobile 0433-974-738 or PM me

hey guys, selling my FRESH slant lip BBS RS wheels. only reason is that i my car looks too low on 17s and want to lift it on some 18s theyre genuine GTR RS Slant lips 17x9+20 all wheel bolts cleaned and polished by HAND! lips refurbished and like new centres painted the silver from the s15s with a shitload of copper and blue pearl. looks very very nice. comes with tyres only thing left on them is polishing the hexs as i forgot them at home when i sent the lips off lol $3000ono i know you can get fakes for a quarter of the price, but if you want them go buy them. any posts indicating that fakes and genuines are the same shit, kindly gtfo my thread. thanks guys!

For Sale R32 GTR Front Grill In GTR Grey colour, good condition, only one clip has cracked. $150 negotiable Located Brisbane East Side, Redlands. Can post at buyers expense. PM me if interested and can message pics on request

For Sale R32 GTR Front Grill In GTR Grey colour, good condition, only one clip has cracked. $150 negotiable Located Brisbane East Side, Redlands. Can post at buyers expense. PM me if interested and can message pics on request

hey guys up for sale is an R32 GTR bonnet genuine alloy bonnet in Black, It does have a few cracks in the paint just at the front otherwise great condition, straight with just one tiny little dent. $450 Located on the Gold Coast for pick up, or can organise courier services to your door, msg for a quote. Johnny 0414596256 txt/call, PM

October 1994 R32 GT-R Was previously registered, but has been sitting around for a while. Due to finish first few months of next year but till then i'll have it up for sale Matching numbers car, to suit someone wanting to own a clean, late model stockish 32 GT-R The motor has been built to run around 6-800 hp safely but will need to installed and turbos purchased Happy to sell the rolling body without motor and box for $8.5k Interior is immaculate and standard with exception of the dash bubble all 32's suffer from, but no cracking etc Exterior is in good condition but will need slight work Front bumper missing RHS rear has a small ding which will need to be repaired 1994 model cars are somewhat unique, as they run R33 GTR motor and box with pull type clutch but suspension etc is the same as the R32 I have had the motor rebuilt with roughly the specs below (lots more has been done but cant remember exactly what) Spool Rods ACL Mahle Pistons Tomei Head Gasker Tomei oil restrictor Crank has had the works done to it N1 oil pump N1 water pump New genuine nissanVRS kit through the whole motor Custom head work with oversized intake and exhaust valves Tomei sump baffles Standard pull type clutch Standard R33 gearbox Pittura Sport 17x9 +12's all round with Pirelli P1's (Not the wheels shown in pic) Standard upper control arms have been rebuilt with pedders adjustable bushes Front CV Joints have been rebuilt If i get the asking price i will throw in Top of the line Alpine DVD single din flip out head unit IVA D300e Nismo Front strut brace with brake master cylinder stopper pair of 17x9 bbs lm style wheels For more info PM me

Not gonna lie - it hasn't got the best paint... aka you'll need to get it repainted. Theres only one bit of damage that isn't superficial which I've tried to photograph well - the part where the exhaust fits seems to have a bit of damage to the edges on the inside of it. It won't be noticeable once the kit is on obviously but just so your aware. Make me an offer for the whole thing or just parts Also would be willing to swap the whole kit for a genuine Altia front bar - colour doesn't matter and nothing thats damaged more then superficially Local pickup and cash preferred Penrith region I would be willing to post at your organization and expense PM or call/text 0417 020 618

EOI swaps for my wheels. They are genuine work emotion CR Kai 17's in AHG (Dark Bronze). Comes with Rwc tyres (have done 10,000km's on them) so I'm guessing 70-80% tread Front Triangle TR967 235/45 Rear Maxtrek Maximums M1 245/40 Front 17X8 +32 Rear 17X9 +32 5X114.3 Couple of them have bit of gutter rash and one has a little chip also due to gutter rash (was like that when I bought the car can see it in the pics), other than that no cracks or any damage on the inside. (I think that's the offset, wheels are on a R34). PM on here or text me on 0432 916 704, show me what you've got, i'd prefer 17, 18 and 19's which must be able to fit a r34 (5x114)

Genuine NARDI Leather Steering Wheel -(not included horn button, ring, etc.) SIZE: 365mm (approx) CONDITION: Used (has some scratches but in really good condition) ORIGIN: Made in ITALY $500 52mm ASI PERFORMANCE aluminum radiator NEW Height: 450mm x Length: 655mm x Width: 70mm Heavy duty Aluminum dual core Radiator for skylines, silvias, rb engines, etc. -New -selling due not needing anymore for the R32 $230 posted AUS wide.

Hey all I have some GENUINE made in Japan IMPUL NS-GT II wheels for sale Sizes are: Pair 18x8 +25 and Pair 18x9 +30 Wheels have slight rash nothing major (see pics), no cracks or buckling They have Bridgestone potenza re050a tyres on them but the rears are on the indicators and need to be replaced The fronts have a little camber wear but could still maybe be used for a little while Were fitted on a V35 and look really good, only reason for selling is now running 9.5" wide on all four PRICE: $1500 ONO Also have for sale a pair of 265/35/18 Bridgestone Adrenaline RE001s for sale Basically good for skids lots of camber wear Price: $80 for the pair PM me on here for any more details Located in South West Sydney

Hi guys selling a genuine set of Bride Brix seats, both driver and passenger sides. - Come with rails genuine bride aswell -Overall condition is really clean, no tears whatsoever, only one little cigarette burn on passenger side seat. -Can show more pictures if requested. -Most seats you will find are fake, genuine ones are a rare find, and esp in good condition. -Located in Thomastown VIC 3074 for pickups. -If you request more pictures or any enquires (swaps whatsoever) of such please contact me via my phone number 0466996690 -Seats are currently in my s15, as shown in picture. The car is also for sale please follow carsales link if interested(http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Silvia-1999/SSE-AD-2214532/?Cr=3) - I'm also not sure how to possibly send these interstate so if you are interested and would like to organize something, feel free to contact me and postage at extra charge. ASKING 1100$ **JUST BEEN notified that drivers seat is BRIDE BRIX and passenger side is BRIDE Egro** - please note

Wanting to swap my genuine BRIDE Ergo II's for R33 GT-R seats + cash my way. OR R34 seats as long as the rails fit a 33. Can anyone confirm? These are genuine seats and they come with universal Just Jap rails. The rails need some modding to be perfect but they're solid enough to drive around with. Only interested in people fairly close by. Brisbane, goldcoast, etc. Not interested in posting. Located in Brisbane. Price is a pair of great condition 33 GTR seats (no tears, cigarette burns, stains) + $500 my way. Please only reply if you're local. I don't want to be freighting seats. 0401029817

My R34 GTT project goals have changed, from fast / responsive street car to dedicated track car. As a result I'm now selling the new complete turbo kit I had originally bought for it. It includes: Garrett GTX3071R turbo Genuine Garrett 5 bolt 0.82 a/r rear housing, IWG Garrett 14psi wastegate actuator Spacer plate to fit to OEM exhaust manifold Turbo nuts and studs All water and oil lines (braided) All other required fittings - banjo bolts, crush washers etc. All required gaskets Compressor outlet silicon elbow Dump pipe to suit turbo, ceramic coated It comes with EVERYTHING needed to bolt straight up to an RB25. I bought the whole kit through Kudos Motorsports, and they obviously sourced it through GCG Turbos in Australia. I had test fitted the turbo to the exhaust manifold, but nothing has been run and the turbo is still as new. Fellow forum member Mick_o made a responsive 335rwkw from memory (on E85) with the same turbo in his R33. The whole kit cost me about $3k, and then I spent extra changing the oil and water lines to braided items and getting the dump pipe ceramic coated. I'm looking to get $2,100 for the whole kit, plus delivery. Cheers Justin

Rays Nismo LMGT3 Set I have a set of Rays Nismo LMGT3s for sale, they came off my S14 200SX when I unfortunately had to sell the car.All round decent condition, all wheels have some curb rash, worst of which is pictured. All have centrecaps.Fronts: 17x8 offset + 36, wrapped in Hankook Ventus R-S3 235/45Rears: 17x9 offset + 38, wrapped in Hankook Ventus R-S3 245/40 $1600 ONO Inspections welcome. Can ship at buyer's expense. All reasonable offers considered, no trades. Located in Melbourne Area, can arrange meeting in Geelong also.

☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ For Sale Listings ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Brand: Genuine GTR R34 Model: R34 Forged Tyres: Yes with new tread Pair / Set: Set PCD: 5x114.3 Diameter / Width / Offset: 18x9 +30 Location: Forster NSW Willing to Ship: No Price: Around $2k but mainly wanting to swap with cash my way if need be

Modifying a Skyline - An Honest Perspective THIS THREAD IS LOOOONG. SKIP TO THE END FOR SUMMARY! Hey SAU. I was originally going to write a Newbie Introduction thread, as I realized I never officially introduced myself. However, I really want to talk about my experiences modding my car, so instead I'll post a very quick introduction here My name is Josh, I'm 28 from Sydney and I've been lurking SAU on and off since 2013. I originally joined to talk to a guy about buying an R32 GTST which I ended up doing in 2013, before selling it in early 2016. About 3 months ago I picked myself up a nice 40th Anniversary Silver R33 GTST with the intention of making it into a zippy streeter that I could use to fulfill my goal of getting on a track. With that out of the way, I thought I'd write about my experiences buying parts, installing them and tuning my R33. So this is like a build thread but I'm already 90% done. Part of the reason I wanted to do this was to write about my mistakes. Things I did wrong, things I should have researched and advice I ignored. So many people have tried to cut corners when it comes to working on their cars, including me, and I want to write honestly about what I've done and how I did it so others can learn. Oh, and hopefully you can also learn a few positive things as well! So let's start with parts that I wanted. When I got the car, I was getting together a small slush fund to get parts, but was still pretty tight on budget. I set out with the goal of 250rwkw. For this, my shopping list was (the usual): Turbo Injectors Fuel Pump AFM ECU Before going out and buying them, I set about doing all of the maintenance items on the car. Oil, filter, fuel filter, coolant, and I went as far replacing transmission oil as well with Redline Shockproof. During this first couple of weeks driving the car, I really didn't like the brakes as the previous owner had let the car sit for a while and the rotors were shot. So I ended up buying a set of DBA slotted and dimpled rotors and QFM brake pads all round. This combo worked extremely well, but was extremely noisy, a problem I have to this day. Here comes my first piece of advice: if you're going to replace your rotors, you may as well clean up your calipers and hit them with some paint. Mine could really use it but I never did. It was after this I wanted to get started on parts. However, I couldn't at the time afford everything at once, and I thought I was going to wait a few months. I therefore, for some reason, decided to get my Nistune ECU before anything else. I really don't know why, I guess because I was very excited and I thought the car might run a bit quicker with Nistune, considering it already had supporting mods (zorts, intake, EBC). So I bit the bullet, hit up Toshi and ordered my Nistune. I thought I may as well, seeing as I was going to need it anyway. This was completely stupid. Do not be like me and waste a tune and dyno time for no reason. If I had my time again I would have been patient instead of stupidly enthusiastic. It ended up being more of a blunder as I got my work bonus a week later and I started ordering parts immediately. The first thing I ordered was injectors. After doing a bit of research, I thought that the easiest way to get to my goal was to stick with side feeds. However, I didn't anticipate they'd cost so much, with a set of NISMO's quoted to me for $1150. So off to Ebay I went. Here, I found "JECS 550cc RB25DET Direct Replacement Injectors" (they ended up being STI injectors with harnesses). I read SAU, and didn't find too much other than generally I should stick to genuine stuff. I then read ebay reviews and reviews from other websites. It seemed hit and miss. I thought f@#k it, and bought them. For less than $400 I thought I couldn't go wrong. We'll come back to these. I then looked up AFM's. Again, I was shocked to find Z32 AFM's around the $300 mark. So off to Ebay once again. I found "Bosch Z32 Replacement" AFM's brand new for $90. Score! Or so I thought. Do NOT cheap out on AFM's. This unit did NOT work, despite the crazy positive reviews. Take the advice from others and go genuine. For a fuel pump, I wanted a Walbro 255. For this I had a mechanic mate who happened to have a new one on his shelf that he sold me for $100. Easy, and one of the few things I did right. For turbo choice, I actually came to this forum and took the advice given to me. I ended up going with a G3 21U High Flow turbo from Hypergear. At $1100 it was one of my steepest purchases but well worth it. So, I got a week off work, hijacked my in-law's driveway and shed full of tools and set about installing the parts with the intention of getting Toshi out to tune my car when complete. Luckily, I had experience swapping a turbo out from my R32 so this wasn't too bad. I had the turbo swapped out in about 10hrs. My only advice for this is to get yourself a 24mm ratchet spanner to attack the inside banjo bolt. IT IS A B!TCH! I'd also suggest bringing the dump out with the turbo, BUT taking it off to install the turbo. This is how I did it, but I was working alone. After installing the Turbo, I put in new coolant and oil and took it for a brief spin. All good. Yes, I'm a grub. The next day I set about installing the fuel pump. I've never worked with fuel systems before, but after following a how-to on SAU I got there in the end. It's important to note that I did NOT do the "earthing mod" as I didn't know about it at the time. Please do your research and do this at the bare minimum. Ideally though you will do the fuel pump rewire with a relay etc, as I will be doing myself soon. If you do not do these your pump will not get the full voltage it needs. After taking the car for another spin, everything seemed fine. This was where I was getting scared, as I was about to tackle injectors and AFM. I knew I couldn't test the car for anything from this point until Toshi came for the tune. I decided to attack injectors first. Once again, I followed a guide I found on SAU. I did NOT have to take off the plenum or the IAC valve. It is an 11/10 B!TCH to reach into and work on, but you don't have to remove them. Others suggest you do, but I didn't. It took me about 2 hours to get the rail out for a first timer. The hardest part for me was actually unplugging injectors 4 and 5, as my fat bloody hands couldn't unclip the 20yo plastic. I eventually use a bent screwdriver as a hook to unclip them but it took me a good 15mins to just unplug these injectors. Once the rail was out, I was told that pulling the injectors out would be quite difficult. However, for me, it was quite easy. It was a bit of a pain I admit to get the screws out from the injector hats, including one screw being completely rounded, but I fixed this up with some multigrips. For the injectors themselves, I used a bit of muscle to twist them in their rail, and then using a large, flat, wide screwdriver, I SLOWLY and carefully levered them out, from just under the plug connection. Others had said not to do this, but I did this with ZERO damage. After this, I installed the new injectors using a little bit of motor oil as lubricant and reversed the order of everything to install. Once again, the injector plugs made me want to off myself. The rest was easy. I then installed the AFM using yet another guide on SAU. Make sure you use solder and insulate PROPERLY with heat shrink and tape, For R33s, solder the 2 Earth's together from the Z32 plug to the Earth on the 3-wire harness. Do NOT ground any of them to chassis, as I read on another guide. With everything installed, it was time to tune. I got Toshi over, but the car was running like dogshit. After process of elimination, we got it down to one injector. Injector number bloody 4. With nothing he could do, Toshi went home, and I went and cracked a cold one so I could start sobbing. The next day, I pulled everything apart and found this: This is what happened when I tried to reach in and squeeze shit together. A BENT BLOODY PIN. I fixed this and low and behold, the car started and idled nicely! It was then time to get the car tuned again and chucked on the dyno! During this dyno run, the car unfortunately misfired. Toshi pointed out that it could be the coils or the fact I never earthed the fuel pump, as I mentioned above. After quickly earthing the pump, I still had a misfire, and drove away with an unfinished tune making 184rwkw @ 10psi. 3rwkw less than I orginally had before the mods... It was at this stage that I needed to get coils. After looking through reviews (but not enough of SAU) I ended up buying Yellow Jacket coil packs. These coils have a reputation for failing here on SAU. However, mine have not been the cause of my issues, but I only have 400km of driving on them. I also happened to get custom plates at the time because why not. I then installed the coils and gave Toshi a call. I went to him to get the car tuned but yet, the car still misfired and the AFR's couldn't be put under control. It was at this time that it was cemented to me that the injectors were the issue. Not having faith in the judgement, and desperate not to spend $1k+ on injectors, I got the second opinion of Johnny (dose pipe). He took a look at my car for me and tuned it up to a point where it at least drove and boosted. He was bloody awesome about it too, can't talk him up enough. However, the car was leaning out in the top end, and he advised this is likely the injectors as suspected, or the fuel pump running out of juice. As mentioned before, if you upgrade your pump, make sure you re-wire it! After driving the car for a bit in low revs, it started running like a dog and not boosting, and misfiring at low revs. It was almost 100% the dodgy injectors. So, whilst crying into my wallet, I forked over the cash for new NISMO 740cc injectors from Just Jap. This brings us to now. I'm installing the injectors next Saturday before once again attempting a tune. Hoping all goes well, my combo should net me around my 250rwkw goal. I'll update this thread when done, but to summarize what I would like people to take from this thread: Take the advice of people on SAU. They've done it before. 5 star reviews from anonymous people mean shit. See the point above. Buy GENUINE. Do NOT buy re manufactured. Be PATIENT. I could have saved a lot of money just by doing things in a better order and not being stupid. As above, do't get ahead of yourself. Walk before you run. Make sure your car is in tip-top shape before modding. If it isn't now, it won't handle modification. Most of all, HAVE A BLOODY GO at doing things yourself. I have limited experience on tools and have had no training. I'm self taught from YouTube and from SAU guides. It's extremely fun and rewarding, even when you've had speed bumps like me. I think that's enough haha. More updates to come

VOLK TE37 17inch Staggered Set Hey guys. I've got a staggered set of genuine RAYS VOLK TE37 wheels wrapped in Kumho Ecsta Sport LE all-round. 17x9.5 +32 Front - Kumho Ecsta Sport LE @ 50% 17x10.5 +36 Rear - Kumho Ecsta Sport LE @ 20% Being genuine VOLK forged wheels they are extremely light. No they are not perfect, they have some wheel scrub (pictured) and they definitely need a wash, but they're awesome wheels and the extra width especially in the rear is great for a race application. Fit an R33 GTST slightly lowered with no issues. I've got these listed elsewhere for $1,800 but happy to make a deal with an SAU member. Located 2144/2161 NSW

Hi all, Selling my SARD adjustable blow off valve. It is genuine and comes complete with the adapter attached. After $100 I'm located in Melbourne SE suburbs but can post at buyers' expense.