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Showing results for tags 'gtr'.
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hello, everyone! i was hoping someone with an r33 could help me out. whist working on the brakes the other day i noticed that the installers zip tied the front brake lines to what seems to be the dust shield. i would like to have these lines secured properly, but I am not sure where the bracket goes on these. i have the service manual, but the line drawings aren't exactly super helpful with all of the other components that are in the area, so i am hoping that with a few pictures i would be able to understand where these are attached to. here's what i believe is the part that was removed: -
the other night i took the car out for a spin. after a while, i noticed the brake peddle was super stiff and i was hearing a clicking sound from the brakes when i was stopped. when i started to drive, it felt like the calipers were engaged and it smelled like pads, so i am assuming the pads were engaged. this is on an r33 gtr. does the power steering system provide the vacuum for the brakes? does this sound familiar to anyone? thanks in advance.
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Brand new, no longer needed These retail over $500-Asking 380 FPR2000 (there largest in that model) can flow huge power, only mod is AN3 vacuum port-Driven less that 5k’s bexley area -
Hey guys, Currently in the market looking to purchase a clean history r33 gtr. I'm open to colours,series and mods as long as the car is clean and hasn't been bashed up/rusted. If you are considering selling please hit me up! Located in Victoria but willing to travel for the right car. Have cash waiting
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Does anybody have a z-tune or nismo front bumper for r34 gtr that want to sell, or where I should buy one? Ive looked at rhdjapan but the shipping prices are insane...
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After having attempted to find out which cylinders I will need to focus my knock listening on for my buddies R32 GTR, my searches have come up dry. So I come here to inquire as to your experiences with which cylinders are more likely to knock or knock sooner or more frequently than others in high horsepower applications. I will update this once I get a chance with the actual full build list if required but here's the basics: Built RB26 block and head, Kelford 182-C 282dur 9.2mm cams, Upgraded housing and T51R mod GTX3582R Gen 2 Billet wheel/BB, 100mil jdm intercooler, super fire coil packs, Frenchy's twin fuel hanger with dual Walbro 450s, n1 oil pump w billet gears, PRP adjustable cam gears, Nitto head oil drain, Mishimoto rad & fans, id1300cc injectors, flex fuel kit, billet fuel rail, ported stock intake manifold??(might change), can't think of anything else at this point, lmk if there's anything else. In addition, I was curious if the build would be better off with a Haltech or link or the many others that are slipping my mind, or is it mostly personal preference? -
Hi SAU, Having boost related issue with my BCNR33. Car is making no boost! Triple gauge is registering vacuum, needle moves from negative to 0kg/cm2. Car drives normally, no sputtering or misfiring. AFRs also reading normal. Acceleration feels normal up until 3500rpm or so where you can begin to feel the lack of grunt. No woosh sounds either, just the sound of the HKS mushrooms sucking air. Just a little background on the car: HKS2530s, 2.8, E85, VIPEC V88, ~20psi max boost, 4in Exhaust. Recently had front turbo oil feed replaced by mechanic due to the old one being cracked. Got car back from them on a Sat and it was boosting fine but felt a little underpowered. Didn't drive car again till Wed. This is when is stopped boosting all together. Didn't hear any bang/pop, didn't notice any smoke either. Currently waiting to hear back from mechanic. In the mean time have inspected piping on both hot and cold sides (also checked FMIC piping behind indicator grilles) for potential boost leak, however wasn't able to find anything loose or hissing. Doing a little research on these forums leads me to believe that it could be a blown turbo or a blocked/malfunctioning CAT. All of the posts regarding no boost and blown turbos usually are owners with ceramic wheel turbos, which mine aren't. With my limited mechanical knowledge and tools I've taken as much piping as I can to check the turbos. The front turbo looks okay? It spins freely and has no shaft play. Don't have the tools to check the rear turbo as I can't get that elbow looking thing off to inspect the wheel. I'm yet to inspect the CAT. Question: If one turbos blown will I be getting half the amount of full boost or just no boost at all? Question: What are the chances of the CAT causing the absence of boost? I assume it would have been the ceramic wheels dropping into them. But again, I'm certain I don't have ceramic wheels. Question: What do you reckon is causing no boost? Appreciate any and all help!
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hi there i got a HR34 and it stop start i dont know why when i try to start the car it crunk but did not start and when i stop crucking it i get a sound from the trriger ( 3 or 4 tiking sound ) with a engine flashing i change everything and look at the timming for the engine every thing ok i got a haltech plug in ecu this a video for what happening
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From the album: F34RME - R34 GTR
© © Copyright www.skylinesaustralia.com and respective owner
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Nissan Skyline R32 GTR Garrett Twin Turbos RB26DETT (14411-0521) OEM JDM $600 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR Front Pipe Twin Turbo RB26DETT RB26 OEM $300 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR ECU RB26DETT 23710 05U61 Engine Control Module OEM $350 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR RB26DETT AFM Air Flow Sensor 22680 05U00 x 2 $220 ea Nissan Skyline R32 GTR Igniter Module 22020-05U00 OEM RB26DETT JDM $150 Located West of Melbourne Can post anywhere in Australia at buyers expense Inbox me if interested -
![12249385[1].jpg](//saufiles.s3.ap-southeast-2.amazonaws.com/1311078983/sml_gallery_86524_4462_51538.jpg)
From the album: my R32 GTR
© © Copyright www.skylinesaustralia.com and respective owner
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From the album: Time Attack 2012
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Anyone had this issue before?: i was trying to bleed the attessa (r33 gtr vspec) and the strange issue that I have is that the bleed mode of the pump does not work. Ive done it 2 years ago and it was working. so when i disconnect the white connector under the dash the pump only starts if i turn ignition on, but when opening the bleeders it wont start on loss of pressure. if the connector is connected the pump won't do anything no matter what. also strange is that there is only very little fluid coming through the diff bleeder, as there is no pressure. On the other hand there is good pressure on the transfercase bleeder. I have no ECU connected, never touched any wiring on the attessa sytem and fluid level is ok. anyone can help?
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Hey guys, I was hunting around on here and found a an old thread in regards to this topic but it hasn't had any new info or comments so I'm trying my luck to get some more up to date info. I am in the process of building a R33 GTR, while the engines out to go a bigger sump, head drain etc. I am looking at the front diff thinking it's stupid not to do it while it's out. So down the rabbit hole i've gone, after speaking to my diff builder he has said when making over 500kw you should be looking at doing the rear. Yes I know you can just leave it stock, but I am planning to do the rear as well as the front now. My car is a street car and most it's time is seen on the street. From past threads and speaking to GTR owners it really seems like the Nismo GT Pro is a very track orientated diff. I am wanting something that is quiet but performs better than a stock diff. The Quaife is relatively maintenance and sounds like it is better suited for the street. But I am curious if anyone has a Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way in the rear of their GTR that is a mainly a street car, the guy building my diff has suggested he can wind it back and make it more tame for the street but said there will be some noise and some wheel hoping occasionally. Has anyone come across this? Has anyone run both? I would love to hear opinions and feedback if you have run either. One thing I found is the guys running the Nismo GT Pro are predominately race cars, mine's far from that. Cheers -
Hi I have a set of GT2859R-9s that im wanting to rebuild and put on my rb26 gts4 32. I am wanting to push around 400-500hp and was wondering is that possible? to note the car has the following mods 880cc injectors, echuast, apexi fc commander, oem fuel pump. should i do any other mods because the turbos are out? also what ecu do people recommend (in future im wanting to go single turbo set up) thanks all! -
As stated, looking to hopefully acquire some R32 GTR Sills Parts: 76412-05u36 (Sill RH) and 76413-05u36 (Sill LH) I know these are becoming hard as hell to find, so any help with this would be appreciated too.
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For starters, I’m located in the states. I bought my gtt few years back and has been sitting in storage until legal to import. Car is in Canada so I am able to see it occasionally. The car came with an Impul boot lid and the previous owner left holes in the boot lid. I bought a GtR spoiler for it but only one hole matches up. I fear that I cannot drill new holes to make it match up properly without merging the old holes. So I’m looking for an oem boot lid for a 2 door.
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From the album: Other Cars
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
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From the album: THE.32R
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From the album: R33 GTR
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From the album: N1
![12249385[1].jpg](http://saufiles.s3.ap-southeast-2.amazonaws.com/1311078983/sml_gallery_86524_4462_51538.jpg)
