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Showing results for tags 'gtst'.
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My R32 GTST From Canada
CanadianGuy posted a topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Hey everyone! Finally after years of owning all kinds of other jdm cars (ae86, s13 with a RB swap, FC RX7, Datsun 510, 280zx etc) I’ve got my hands on a skyline! Ended up trading a Harley Road Glide for it after being in that scene for a few years. The previous owner started a lot of work but then had a bad motorcycle accident and the car sat for almost a year until I picked it up The car wasn’t running and had a massive fuel leak from a pinched injector o ring but had good compression so went about trying to get it firing up so I could drive it into the garage Turned out the fuel rail which was set up to run with an aftermarket aeromotive regulator had plugged up injectors, fired in a 2nd set that came with the car and drove it into the garage. Once getting it tucked into its spot (have a nice 46’x26’ garage) went about tackling some of runability issues. The main ones now are between my driveway and the garage the tach decided to stop working, and there seems to be a 2500ish rpm limiter being set on the car. The limiter I imagine has something to due with the butchery that is my afm wiring Seems someone decided to run new shielded wires from pin 2&4 to the ECU and hack together the remaining into the original harness for some reason. Going to clean that up and see if any of the afm’s that came with the car make it run a little happier. Speakimg of ECU this was a cool surprise Looks like Mines might have had something to do with the ECU at some point in its life. Still lots of little odds and ends to work out but couldn’t be happier! -
Hi Gents, I recently purchased an R32 gts-t Mspec coupe for a reasonable price (I think). The reason it was cheap is because it isn't road legal and requires some chassis repairs before it can be certified and road legal here in NZ. The previous owner had owned it for 20years and imported it over from AU to NZ 8 years ago (2015) with intentions of eventually getting it certified here in NZ. He finally started this process a few months ago to find that it has un-repaired A-pillar damage, in additon to a poor repair to the front chassis rail (both damages on the drivers side) and he doesnt have the resources or time to repair it. Apart from this, the car has been extreamly well kept, garaged it's whole life and is in presitine condition for it's age. My question for you legends is this; Do you think the damage to the pillar and/or chassis rail is repairable without having to completely chop/replace the damaged area? Or even worse, a full front end cut to replace? I'm really hoping this can be repaired with hydraulic pulls and extensive panel beating instead. Also keen to know how major you would score this damage; From 1 being "minor - crack on with it" and 10 being "don't even bother mate - she's cooked" Cheers fellas
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🚗 Upgrade Your Ride with Authentic Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T Wheels! 🚗 Revitalize your car's style with a pristine set of 4 OEM Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T wheels. Whether you're restoring that iconic original JDM look or keeping them as spares, these wheels are perfect! ⚡️Specs:⚡️ - Size: 16x6.5 - Offset: 40 - Stud Pattern: 5x114.3 🔘 **Tire Condition:** Approximately 60-70% Tread Remaining 🚨Please Note: This is a used auto part that may have minor wear or imperfections 👉These wheels are getting harder and harder to find these days be quick and don’t miss out. 🏠 **Pick Up Preferred,** but I can arrange a courier at the buyer's expense anywhere in Australia. 🚚 📥 Alternatively you can send me a message if you're interested! 💰Price: $650 🌎Located (west of Melbourne) -
Hi All, I want to get my bonnet resprayed, but I want to retain the car to use while that is being done. So, anyone have a spare bonnet to suit a R32 GTST that I can borrow for the duration? Cheers
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Hi guys a recently purchased R33 Gtst automatic is driving normally some days then it'll just completely lose responsiveness but once stopped the key will start the car as if nothing had just happened. if anyone has experience with this issue that would be extremely helpful. The mechanic we brought it to said they "fixed it" but no it definitely was not fixed. Please if anyone has experience anything would help, Thank you! -
From the album: My R32 GTS-T
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From the album: BluSky
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From the album: BluSky
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From the album: BluSky
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From the album: Dipped.
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From the album: Skyline R33 Gtst
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From the album: Skyline R33 Gtst
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From the album: Skyline R33 Gtst
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From the album: r33
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From the album: R34 GTR
My R34 GTR next to my R33 GTSt -
From the album: The Ride
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Bit of a rookie question boys, but do R33 GTS coilovers go on a R33 GTST? Bout to buy some and I just want to know for certain. Cheers.
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Hi! Has anyone tried replacing the hicas computer between a r33 gtr and r33 gtst before and knows if this works? Gtst art: 2850519U10 Gtr art: 2850524U10 The reason for this is that my powersteering goes heavy from time to time, and recently stoped working fully. I did try to fix my old unit without succes. (gtst) I now have a second hand hicasbox from a R33 gtr. The units look exactly the same on the outside with identical pin connections, but Inside it looks alot diffirent! For example, In the gtst box there are 2 circuit boards, in the gtr it's only 1 etc..? I'm just want to retain the powersteering function! as my Hicas steering is removed. -
Ok, so, I've been having problems with starting my 98 R33 Gts-t recently. It can vary from turning over and never firing to starting but running very poorly and stalling to working fine seemingly at random. On more than one occasion, by playing with the fuel pump wiring, fuse or plug the car will start and run perfectly, i do not know if this is the actual problem because it seems so intermittent however, i do know that the car will run roughly/stall without the fuel pump plugged in (I swear I didn't forget to connect it, i was "testing"). If anyone has had a problem similar to this and fixed it that would be great to hear but being vague and intermittent I don't hold much hope. The real meat of this post is, if i were to replace the pump is there a nice drop in replacement that doesn't cost and arm and a leg while not being from the Chinese lucky dip bag on ebay? my other thought was to upgrade to a Walbro 255 (GSS340) or a Bosch 040 because eventually my plan is to buy something reliable and diesel (and high off the ground so ramps aren't necessary for everything ) and throw some money into this car so i figured i may as well plan for power as i'm most likely to get a new car within a year. But i have read mixed things about both the bosch and walbro from a general trawl through the forums, is there a clear winner? Also if i do end up going this option, do I have to upgrade the wiring to the pump and what is the best way to go about this, my thoughts are to use the current power wires to trigger a separate fused relay. Anyway, thanks in advanced for any help Joe
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Hey so we found out that the car is being flooded with gas after stalling or being driven around a lot, the plugs were soaked after testing it. So sounds like things aren't getting hot enough in the ignition system, do you think it needs new plugs and coilpacks? if so what types should I get? I've heard about people running ls1 coilpacks in the rb25
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Hey guys, I'm having a large uncertainty in what brake lines to buy for my R33. I have a NA R33 Skyline, and I'm doing the classic GTST 5 stud & brake conversion. To my understanding, the hoses are different. Can anyone point me in the direction of hoses that will go straight on OR a way to get around this properly? Cheers
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After doing a 5 stud conversion + brake upgrade (r33 gtst brakes) onto my r33 gts I cant get my brake pedal to feel firm. The car used to have ABS but everything has been removed including the sensors on the calipers. I have compared my brake setup to another non abs r33 and its exactly the same so theres no reason it shouldn't work. Ive already had a mechanic look at it, tried to bleed it, but still no improvement on the brakes. Besides that I have also tried to bleed the brakes and master cylinder using the brake pedal and a hand pump vacuum bleeder. With the car not running, the first 20% of the brake pedal has play, and the last 80% of the brake pedal feeling solid as. With the car running, is literally the opposite, 80% of the brake pedal is useless and the last 20% is when the brakes stop the car although i haven't tested it at speed higher than 30km/h. Theres no leaks, every connection is tight, fresh brake fluid etc. The brake booster is also from a turbo r33 to match the turbo gtst brakes. Could the master cylinder be broken? is there a way to test if it is? the brake booster and master cylinder both worked before installing them. I read on a forum from someone who did the same brake upgrade, same car, and had to upgrade to brake booster and master cylinder cause the brake pedal always felt soft/spongy. But there was no information on the upgrades he made? Any help would be appreciated!
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pic1 pic2 pic3 Howdy, About 2 months ago i bought my first skyline from some guy who did alot of backyard modifications to it. I bit off way more then i can chew but i have been trying to get into cars/find myself a new hobby. Basically after i bought it i was transferring interstate to VIC and getting a rwc was a nightmare. Turbo to big, cammed, disgustingly loud , to many mods etc etc. Finally 2.8k later I got it Plugged up to quieten it down, had all its lights and such fixed,blinkers etc etc fixed. Now its in a RnR mode, Cant idle correctly, and basically needs a ECU and a tune because as far as i can see, it has an old LINK chip and a tuning cable (which plugs into a a hand controller with a serial connection,which didnt come with the car). So now im in country victory, with no tuners nearby, with a car that can barely run, and hopefully in next few months, ill save a bit more for a haltech ecu + a tune. Ive been just doing little projects on it now since ive finally got the car in my name from the road worthy. Such as swapping steering wheels, fixing the seats, trying to find cutouts and matts because boot didn't really come with a liner. If anyone has any info on nearby tuners such as ballarat or geelong (im located in warrnambool), rather then going all the way to melbourne that would be great =D. (no access to trailers etc) Any cheaper alternatives for an ecu im happy to hear. Hopefully over next few months ill get her running sweet and be good for cruises. Been hovering these forums for months just trying to learn anything i can since ive basically spent my whole life on computers. And i hope this forum and car can help me gain some new experiences, friends , and knowledge. cheers
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Okay so I have a r33 NA rb25de motor/ gearbox that I’ll be putting in a turbo r33 shell and was just wondering if I can use the same loom or will I have to change it to the NA one ?
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So I'm looking at getting some wheels for my R32 GTS-T and I want to know what I can fit under the gaurds without doing any of this stupid stretching of tyres. I'm looking to get 17x8 +32s under all corners. Is it gonna work with 235s or 245s? Gaurds already rolled of course
