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Showing results for tags 'help'.
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Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?
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Hey all I have an 99 R34 sedan - RB25DE NEO and it’s running rich/poor but I’m not sure why. It was running poor when I bought it and the only thing the PO did before hand was drop the cat which he said caused the issue (Unsure if that’s true or not) The car has a chop while idling but once it warms up properly it runs smooth but still has the CEL. I ran the code and it gave me a MAF issue so I used sensor clean which didn’t work then replaced it with an aftermarket MAF but from a reliable seller which gave me code 55 but it still runs poor. I’ve also replaced the coil packs and checked the spark plugs and raised the O2 sensor out of the exhaust to allow it to get more air but still nothing. Any help would be great as I’ve spent a lot of time and money trying to diagnose this issue. Here’s a vid of it idling hope someone else has had this issue and can help fix it thanks
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Hello all. I am trying to install a Viper 5706V into my GTT and everything is working except for the remote start. I am struggling to figure out the pinout of the ignition barrel. It seems that there is 2 starter pins (White, and White/Red) and only 1 ignition pin (Black/Red) HELP. Everywhere I look online and in all of the documentation on the alarm. It says there should be 2 ignitions. What am I missing here. If any other R34 Owners have one of these systems installed with the remote start. Would you be able to send your wiring diagram. (How you have it installed) The Viper one is horribly worded and is making life a pain. -T3
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Hi I have a set of GT2859R-9s that im wanting to rebuild and put on my rb26 gts4 32. I am wanting to push around 400-500hp and was wondering is that possible? to note the car has the following mods 880cc injectors, echuast, apexi fc commander, oem fuel pump. should i do any other mods because the turbos are out? also what ecu do people recommend (in future im wanting to go single turbo set up) thanks all! -
Hi all to the community, I am new in the JDM scene and i am so exited! i would like some advice from all and possibly what i can do, will try to add as much as detail in for everyone ! I have recently purchased a r32 gts4 skyline with a rb26 in it. so the previous owner had it for 6 years and always serviced ect it every 5000kms, the engine now has 180 xxx kms on it. back to the question, he had issues with the twins so he removed them and bought a single turbo garret ec-1 a/r7 - xjm 62406 and a manifold and wastegate to suit. he then lost interest and the car sat for 6 months. i have purchased the car like this and went to 2 tuning shops these are my options 1) tune shop 1- chuck n5s 2860s turbos, aftermarket manifold, dump pipe + tune 2) tune shop 2- bring the car in (with the twins again) and they will have a look at it because it might be the load limit and the turbos might be fine. they also said i might have to look into a rebuild as its at 180 000kms. 3) ???? thanks everyone for reading this! i hope all is having a lovely day / night
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Hi all, I have a 2006 Skyline 350GT SP Sedan with Bose and Nav. Took the dash apart to replace the leather as it was cracking. After installing everything back I have two issues. Horn stopped working and the Nav is showing a blank screen. Screen turns on but does not display anything. Climate control works perfectly and the steering wheel controls work too. Reverse camera and mirror camera work, can hear the radio working and can control it. I tried unplugging everything and plugging back twice but still blank display. There are a few cables that I could not plug anywhere so not sure what i'm missing here.
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After a lot of headache asking for help, I have a r33 rb25det motor ( block number confirms) I got a rebuilt gearbox with changeover. Old gearbox had noisey bearings and crunchy 3/4 shifts, with a brief visual they looked the same. I upgraded from a exceedy sport tuff h/d clutch also has fitted a exceedy lightend flywheel to a NPC 300rwkw capable clutch for future mods, after fitting the new gearbox after elongating some bellhousing Bolts, slightly off compare to old mostly the bottom ones going through the backing plate.... there was excessive clearance between the clutch thrust bearing and touching the pressure plate. clutch slave cylinder push rod wouldn’t fit, after using NPC guidance there was 24mm clearance between, which they’ve never heard of, after fitting a longer thrust retainer to remove the clearance down to 6mm the clutch wouldn’t fully disengage, in gear foot on clutch turning the tailshaft clutch could be heard dragging and had abit of resistence to turn, whilst driving it was crunchy there was 10mm height difference on pressure plate clutch fingers when bolted to flywheel between clutches after drivability problems I decided to play around with spacing the clutch fork pivot and decreasing clearance down to 4mm but the NPC clutch still was dragging, so I decided to fit the old exceedy clutch that was working (now has been sitting for awhile) I fitted all the original parts from the old gearbox thrust retainer, removed clutch pivot ball spacing, now this clutch wouldn’t disengage at all, so I’m at a loss help.... summary rebuilt gearbox with new oem front plate where thrust retainer slides on new clutch slave cylinder, bolt pattern one on top one on bottom NPC 300rwkw clutch exceedy lightend flywheel 2mm difference overall height difference to factory flywheel apparent auto to manual converted new clutch pedal box everthing bolts up the same except for lower bellhousing bolts and starter motor needed to be elongated -
After doing a 5 stud conversion + brake upgrade (r33 gtst brakes) onto my r33 gts I cant get my brake pedal to feel firm. The car used to have ABS but everything has been removed including the sensors on the calipers. I have compared my brake setup to another non abs r33 and its exactly the same so theres no reason it shouldn't work. Ive already had a mechanic look at it, tried to bleed it, but still no improvement on the brakes. Besides that I have also tried to bleed the brakes and master cylinder using the brake pedal and a hand pump vacuum bleeder. With the car not running, the first 20% of the brake pedal has play, and the last 80% of the brake pedal feeling solid as. With the car running, is literally the opposite, 80% of the brake pedal is useless and the last 20% is when the brakes stop the car although i haven't tested it at speed higher than 30km/h. Theres no leaks, every connection is tight, fresh brake fluid etc. The brake booster is also from a turbo r33 to match the turbo gtst brakes. Could the master cylinder be broken? is there a way to test if it is? the brake booster and master cylinder both worked before installing them. I read on a forum from someone who did the same brake upgrade, same car, and had to upgrade to brake booster and master cylinder cause the brake pedal always felt soft/spongy. But there was no information on the upgrades he made? Any help would be appreciated!
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Hey guys trying to get some advice for where to go with problem solving on my stagea, its one of the dreaded 08/97 built cars that have an ecu they ran for only one month apparently. pretty much the problem is the car is idle hunting badly running rich and rarely but sometimes stalling at idle and then under power it will stutter and cut out untill i clutch out taking load off. The previous owner had it manual swapped from an auto and the issues started from there as i found from the mechanic who serviced it. if someone could help with a pin out sheet or advice on which ecu to go with or if theres. Something i should replace i would much appreciate it.
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Running into a bit of an issue. R34 GTT auto trans has a speed sensor at the back, little 2 pin plug, assuming it's speed sensor 2 however the current trans harness doesn't plug into it. So assuming that either my harness is wrong or someone swapped out the sensor with a different one? Either way anyone have any ideas on what to do in this case? Is there a suitable replacement to speed sensor 2 or do I even need it?!
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Hi there I own a 1990 R32 GTS Skyline manual converted and I’ve +T’d it. Ioriginally got it with a blown 25 and I’ve thrown in an old 20 all seems to fit alright so far apart from the trans. However when I connect the battery it instantly starts cranking but will not start, without any keys in the ignition. Any thoughts on what it might be from? also anyone know what this wire is? It’s a positive energy wire but should it be connected to something? cheers Joe -
So I’m new to this whole r32 thing and I’m sure this topic has been covered ten fold. Hours of research got me nowhere. But my situation is slightly different. I have a R32 GTS-t with an r33 rb25det swap. my issue is removing the hicas.. I have the R33 power steering pump that has one pressure line, yet I have that extra pressure line the R32 uses for the hicas pressure line that I’m trying to loop in to the power steering in order to maintain my power steering. I’ve deleted the Hicas pump from the frame rail, looped the cooler line and removed lines running all the way to the back. I’m just trying to now loop the second pressure line Into the power steering system. Would it be easier just to find the RB20 Gtst power steering pump with two pressure line fittings or is there something I’m missing and it’s a simple fix? as stated, super new to this please help!!! -
Does anyone know what fan pulley brackets fit in a M35 Stagea? I found ones for a 350z which looks identical to the mine that needs replacing, but apparently they don't fit. If someone knows for sure what fits that would be great as I am eager to drive it -
I want to make braided coolant lines for my turbo im installing and need to get the correct raceworks hose and fitting. Im a little confused there's two types of fitting, ones called Teflon and the others called cutter fittings same with different series of braided hoses? so i don't end up wasting money on stuff that's not going to work im hoping one of you knowledgeable legends can help me out. This is what I've come up with for the coolant line fittings: An-6 hose (not sure what series hose i need) Turbo coolant feed line: 2x metric male m14x1.5 to male flare an6 2x an-6 90 degree hose fitting Turbo coolant return line: 1x metric male m14x1.5 to male flare an6 1x an-6 90 degree hose fitting 1x an6 straight hose fitting 1x an6 flare to 3/8 (an6) barb fitting Hopefully that makes sense Thanks.
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Hi, I've got a problem that's getting on my nerves. Fuse at the bortom left side (10a) keeps on popping when i turn the key to on. I got problems with my climate control and fan blower and i have tried everything. Googled like a maniac and still can't find anything that sort my problem. Can this be related? I got three climate controls, so that isn't the problem ? I also tried removing all connectors to the fan blower motor, I've changed the temperature relay to. Please help, I'm getting desperate.
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So I'm looking at switching up my Intake setup due to an aftermarket turbo manifold. Here are my specs before you tell me to spend my money elsewhere or to buy a 25 Yada Yada: Hybrid Performance Turbo Manifold GCG high flowed RB25 turbo GTR Injectors (444cc I believe) Z32 AFM Nistune So, the problem I face is with the standard J Pipe, the exhaust manifold is about an inch from the J Pipe elbow (refer to picture) and this causes concern for Intake Temps. So instead of heat wrapping and shielding and all that, a buddy has a full RB26 intake setup that he said he'd give me if I want it. My main question is if I buy this OtakuGarage adapter plate, what issues will I face? My thinking is that it'll make the intercooler piping shorter, and not run over the exhaust which could heat up my Intake Temps. I'm looking for answers and solutions, not hate on RB20s. Thanks in advance!
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I am picking apart my r33 gtst and i just found this loose cable, anyone know what it is?
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Hi I need help finding the name of this connector, i need one as you can see ? Its located near the washerfluid reservoar. -
so i got a AEM boost and oil temp gauge, can i use the old stock gauge wiring to wire in my new gauges
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Hey so after a bit of digging around ive come to the conclusion that the problem im having is with the shifter solenoid it has all the same problems locks me in 3rd until i turn the car off then on again ive looked around locally im from new zealand no one seems to have a listing for a new one or a second hand one that i can find ive however found one of ebay but its for a gtt model skyline would this still work in the non turbo model? Thanks for any help
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Okay so ive got an issue with putting these injector inserts into my freddy plenum and need help with what to do, basically the rubber seal is too big to fit (i did use bosch rubber grease to try and get them in)but the actual inserts themselves fit perfectly! What other options would i have to seal the inserts, i was thinking of using rvt gasket maker but am unsure if this will be okay?
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Hey guys so i'm wanting to sell my wheels. However i do not have enough money to buy stocks i know, i know only($200) but i cant afford rn. Is it safe to put my entire car on four jack stands for a couple of months while i wait for coilovers and wheels? Basically if i sell my wheels it will have to go on jack stands as i dont have wheels to go on the car.... Cheers
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okay so i just purchased GENUINE momo wheel (rip wallet) and i knew what i was getting myself into but not to this extent, there was this thing called airbag that i totally forgot and a "indicator cancellation) if i buy a HKB BOSS KIT ON-229, would it fix the airbag and indicator issues? i have been searching the web for hours but no clear answer heres the link https://www.amazon.co.jp/HKB-ON-229-SPORTS-ステアリングボス/dp/B00IQ2XX58 http://www.hkbsports.com/product/boss/nissan/nissan.html i am in japan right now and can change or buy parts pretty much instantly so replys now would be great ! thanks so much summary: Would the HKB boss kit have indicator cancellation AND airbag light bypass? thanks alot !
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Okay so i made a mistake to remove my srs airbag off my car, and i dont want to put back my old one (really bad condition) i drive a R34 skyline (1998) which comes with a airbag which i believe is illegal, if i act dumb and try to say this car came without a airbag, how much would the fine be if i get caught? kinda dont want to throw away my genuine momo wheel i just bought thanks alot
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Hi Guys, Im rebuilding my RB20 on my r32 and I've bought these DETSHWORKS fuel injectors 800. If I put these on will the car still run? Before I can go get it tuned? Any help is greatly appreciated! Cheers
