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Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?
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Hey all I have an 99 R34 sedan - RB25DE NEO and it’s running rich/poor but I’m not sure why. It was running poor when I bought it and the only thing the PO did before hand was drop the cat which he said caused the issue (Unsure if that’s true or not) The car has a chop while idling but once it warms up properly it runs smooth but still has the CEL. I ran the code and it gave me a MAF issue so I used sensor clean which didn’t work then replaced it with an aftermarket MAF but from a reliable seller which gave me code 55 but it still runs poor. I’ve also replaced the coil packs and checked the spark plugs and raised the O2 sensor out of the exhaust to allow it to get more air but still nothing. Any help would be great as I’ve spent a lot of time and money trying to diagnose this issue. Here’s a vid of it idling hope someone else has had this issue and can help fix it thanks
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Hi all, I have a 2006 Skyline 350GT SP Sedan with Bose and Nav. Took the dash apart to replace the leather as it was cracking. After installing everything back I have two issues. Horn stopped working and the Nav is showing a blank screen. Screen turns on but does not display anything. Climate control works perfectly and the steering wheel controls work too. Reverse camera and mirror camera work, can hear the radio working and can control it. I tried unplugging everything and plugging back twice but still blank display. There are a few cables that I could not plug anywhere so not sure what i'm missing here.
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I am having a small electrical problem. My car will only work if this plug is not plugged in. Other wise it just shorts when I attached the battery terminals. Does anyone know what it is for? It is the middle plug located under the fuse box in the engine bay pictured below. Please help... Thanks.
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just bought a TD06 20g sl2 kando dynamics turbo for my r33 i want to mount it to the stock manifold and weld the gate on.was just wondering if i need to buy the spacer plate they also sell??has anyone done this and had problems with the turbo hitting the manifold etc and have needed to use the spacer? any help would be great.cheers
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hello SAU. i've just brought my first car, a skyline of course. I've had it for a year now with litte problems. although its only a stepping stone for my skyline I take alot of care maintaing it as best i can with my engineering and servicing experience. its a r33 1997 gts25 import with 180000ks recently after returning from overseas my car has had a painfully rough idle and warm start up issue only below 2000 rpm. the engine feels as if its missing or almost stalling randomly at any stops especially. i was attempting to replace the gaskets and polish the head lights and foggies before i started it the first time. so i cant tell if its something ive done or its happened while i was away. when it was being started and driven once every 2 weeks. i took out the coils and plugs, cleaned and inspected them while sealing all the valve cover everything seemed fine. i've tried everything ive reasearched so far and nothing seems to work it has no fault codes. i cleaned the AAC and the MAF but found no change. the plugs and coils seem fine only one with a small crack in the ceramic and another coil with some oil on the outside of the boot but no noticeable firing issues. i do have a power steering leak and it moans when its cold. hence the AAC check. Please help cheers!
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A couple months ago I noticed my r33 gtst hicas ball joints were flogged but neglected the issue. I recently had a full wheel alignment done and the rear end is still snaking under acceleration and deceleration, so i decided I'd better have a closer look at the problem. As expected the balljoint are creating play and they need to be replaced asap. I've had a solid look on the net for the best upgrade without buying a whole hicas lockout system and not much luck. I have a lock bar already and i dont want to tamper with the aligment since i just paid for one. Does anyone know where i can get solid bushes to replace the worn ball joints or what the best upgrade would be. this is the only option i have found so far - http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=843. I've herd rubber(non solid bushes) would create unwanted play... -
Hey all, New to the SAU forum here. I've recently purchased a 1989 r32gts (nonturbo) auto for $2k Pretty stock except the usual, pod filter exhaust, wheels.. it seem like the sump is f**ked in my car (no way to tell other then it's been bent in by a jack i guess) and apparently you have to lift the engine out a little to be able to access the sump to remove it. if this is the case, i'll be wanting to remove the rb20 and replace it for a rb25, i have a mate who want the rb20 so no hassles getting rid of it. i was going to the swap regardless but if i have to replace the sump i was thinking of doing it sooner. i have seen all the threads with pretty much everything on how to do the swap,yet i wouldn't be comforrtable doing it myself as i have very little mechanical knowledge, ( I'm learning!) if there is anyone on here who can inform me on how much a rb25de would cost, and also if there is anyone on here who would be able to help with the conversion that would be great. it'll most likely be done on my driveway lol. Please leave me with some replys! Thanks guys.
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Hey Sau's So over the long weekend i had picked up another GTR R32 for a good price... i thought it would be a good idea just to drive around in a std GTR until mine was finished with my court proceedings.. so after owning the car for 26hours the motor decided to let go on me my misses was taking it for a drive at the time when the car sounded like it let something go and just turned off.. after trying to get the car to start again i checked the oil (i know i should of checked this before) but i was planning on servicing the car the next day before driving it again.. i had notice it was low now i have no idea what could be wrong but i assume the worst either the timing belts gone or its spun a bearing.. i know you can't tell what wrong without looking at it but i want peoples thoughts on what is the cheapest way to get this car going again as i dont want to be stuck with 2 GTR's that dont work should i bother gettting it looked at or fine a replacement motor???
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Fellow SAUers, I am currently in the process of upgrading my brakes, and in doing so, i am using larger diameter rotors front and rear. My dilema is, in using a larger rotor on the rear, i need to remove the covering plate that sits behind the rear rotor. Can anyone tell me how to remove this? Do i need to remove the rear hub to get to it? Any help would be appreciated. Cheers, Damo. -
Driving a S1 RSfour c34 and looking to increase boost. bought a gauge,boost controller, BOV. havnt yet installed them since im trying to find time to do it and havnt tested boost pressure yet but does anyone have any tips for how much of an increase i should set without stuffing the engine too much. would like to hear your thoughts and advice and if there are any threads that have a DIY? No other engine mods have been installed either. these are the parts i have; BOV - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370601350609?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_1037wt_1037 Controller - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220656946480?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1054 Gauge -http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150790984556?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Hi everyone, i'm having a starting issue with my a31 cefiro, it has a s1 rb25det in it, the issue is, the car has been working fine, but lately the car stopped starting when turning the key to start, it would just wind over happly not firing, the strange thing is as soon as i released the key it would start, like between start and on on the key barrel? its getting worse and some times won't even start after releasing key, any ideas? thanks -
hi guys.. i need some help.. ive just installed a greddy dual boost controller and gauge.. i took it for a drive today and tryed changing the boost levels and it didnt do shit! when i bought the car old mate said he removed the boost pill?? i dont know what psi 32 gtr's with stock turbs are supposed to run but the gauge read 15 psi and a spike of 17 psi.. seems to high to me but is that what the actuators are set at???? i wanna know what people think..... i could have installed the controller wrong? or something to do with the boost pill Any input would be awesome!! thanks
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G'day everyone new to the forum and new owner of a 1990 R32 GTS4T 4 door. I have a lot of learning to do and a great list of questions. So I hope I can get some help with all the small to big plans I have for my R32 and get some questions answered. To begin I would like to thank everyone who takes the time to pass on their advice and opinions. I hope I can return the favour in the realm IT/technical support one day and even more so in person if you live in QLD Northside (Buderim Sunshine Coast here). I am currently waiting for the workshop manual to arrive in the mail and hope that a lot of light will be shed on a lot of my questions. But till then here goes. So to begin; I am waiting for delivery of my A/F Ratio gauge and my boost gauge so I am looking to get all wiring run to the locations I will mount them. I think I located the O2 sensor wire pin 29 on the ECCS here I check for 1v reading and fluctuations in the reading when I accelerate. Please confirm I have the correct wire. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpUKb2rBS4Q What is this thing at the rear looks like, 4WS? and these look like stereo related but what they are and what they do I do not know. This forum doesn't allow endless editing so most likely you will see multi posts outside the allotted editing time frame. I apologise for those it annoys. -
Good day to all. I'm bought a TEIN type Flex coilovers, but it has a japanese manual and it is a very big problem for me. In my city there are no good workshops who can made such operations on adjusting and installing that coilovers, so I need to do all operations by myself. My ask to all who ever install such coilovers to ER34 is to share their's experiences. And if somebody has instruction manual in English it helps me much. (tein website has closed the pages with manuals) And big thanks for everyone in advance.
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Can't Upload To My Gallery
Sklyn posted a topic in Site discussion - including Ideas/Feedback & Bugs
Hi, I can't seem to upload to my gallery.. I can get through the steps to the end but when I try to Finish I get the follwoing message: [#1-gallery-review-key1] Sorry, but you do not have permission to use this feature. If you are not logged in, you may do so using the form below if available. Am I doing something wrong?? I have Albums and pics from ages ago, so i guess I should have permission. Thanks for any help. -
Hey guys, so i have a Greddy style plenum for my 25det. And its come to the part to bolt the plenum on to the block. Just wondering which bolts go where on the plenum-to-block? I have a sort of idea where they are suppose to go, but was just wanting some expert opinion to make sure, so i don't stuff anything up hahaha. Thanks guys, any pointers will be great! Oh, And I have been following the http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/181826-how-to-greddy-style-plenum-install/page__hl__stock+rb25det Tut so far and it has been really helpful! just the final bolts to go!
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Hi guys, this weekend a wombat decided to pop up on the road and smash up my front bumper completely. So now I'm just looking for the exact lip to put onto the new bumper I have just put on. As attached, the picture shows the lip I'm referring to. It's just the small part to put on top of the original bumper. If anyone knows what it's called, selling one or where to look to get one, please pm me! Thanks
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Hi guys, this weekend a wombat decided to pop up on the road and smash up my front bumper completely. So now I'm just looking for the exact lip to put onto the new bumper I have just put on. As attached, the picture shows the lip I'm referring to. It's just the small part to put on top of the original bumper. If anyone knows what it's called, selling one or where to look to get one, please pm me! Thanks
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Not sure if i am posting in the right section.. if so please tell me.., I'm kind of new to this forum, but have heard its good for information and opinions.. I currently live in Perth WA, I own a Series 2 R33 Gts-t with the following mods Blitz EBC ~ 12.5psi (with quicker spool up) & turbo timer & boost gauge) K&N Air filter (with pipe leading under for better flow of cold air) HID FMIC Splitfire coil packs (with spark plugs gaped to 0.8) Turbosmart BOV Full exhaust system 3.5" from dump to cat, then 4.5" cannon. UN-Tuned. Pulls pretty good for what it is but still not enough for me and sort of have an idea of what i want to achieve high 300's in Horsepower I have been doing some research and wanting to go for a Garrett GTX3071R- 56T Turbo, with Hi - Mount manifold possibly a 6-Boost one with a Mines 44mm External waste-gate with screamer on it... I'm going to Buy these in order.. Garrett GTX3071R- 56T turbo 6Boost Manifold Haltech Platinum pro plug-in R33 *All ready have Mines 44mm ex waste-gate* Fit everything also extending dump pipe.. Then get it tuned.. once fitted ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First question, is it a good responsive turbo for the power im seeking, what would it give out to me?, The site i am buying the turbo off said ***sold without a turbine housing*** on GCG, does anyone know what size or thing i need for this as this is the biggest part im stuck on... Is it good with that manifold and to be ex gated?, Would it be necessary to buy Bigger Injectors? e.g 550cc injectors or larger?, Can i high mount with all the crossover pipes n shit still there? or? Is heat wrap necessary? What boost Level would be a good for what i have, to be safe? is the 44mm mines ex waste-gate suitable for it? I know screamers and BOV's are illegal and can get yellowed for them so i don't need any comments about that, i currently have faker screamer (split dump) and the BOV on and have had no problems so yeah i am just after that info ^... Thanks guys, appreciate any help Brandon, -
I have a problem, my car wont boost properly when the engine is cold, the turbo spools, you can hear it sucking in air, and the pressure guage goes up but the engine just kinda pauses for a few seconds before it gets hit with the full 7 psi, any ideas on what that could mean?
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Hey guys, I'm new to the turbo scene and I'm looking to upgrade my stock snail. I've looked on the SAU fourms for some opinions and also asked some friends with skylines but not really getting any clear advice yet. Here is the current setup to the best of my knowledge: 1995 R33 GTS=T Series 1.5 RB25DET Mods: 2.5 inch exhaust w/ dual 2 1/4 inch tip frontmount intercooler frontmount oil cooler oversized radiator bosh electronic fuel pump (rated to 650hp) bigger injectors (not sure which ones) Greddy e-01 boost management 4" pod filter Z32 AFM Hicas lock bar Splitfire coilpacks Lightened flighwheel Heavy Duty Clutch Front strut bar Slotted and cross drilled front disks w/ ultimate pads after ive chosen which turbo to upgrade to I'm also going to install a nistune chip on the z32 ecu. So guys what do you think is my best bet for a new turbo. looking to spend about $800-$1000 not much more. Also one of the guys on here have offered me a T04E for $750 with dump pipe and external gate. Is this any good? and is it a good price for a used turbo? Thanks guys.
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Hey guys. Wanting to put a TPS on my aftermarket throttle body. Just wondering if anyone know what fits? Can I just run the standard rb25 tps into it? The motor is a rb25/30 in a r32 and the tps was originally 3 wire. I have the run new wires to the ecu as they're not there anymore and the ecu itself is Microtech lt10s.
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Hi all Unfortunate incident with the beloved. Minor error with the old wheel spacers. Does anyone know or have heard anything or know a v35 coupe that has been written off or is being used as scrap that i could source a front left fender off. Extremely desperate as i cant drive without one. Please help!!!! Any reply is greatly appreciated. Thanks all. I know youll help a brother on need!!!
