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A couple months ago I noticed my r33 gtst hicas ball joints were flogged but neglected the issue. I recently had a full wheel alignment done and the rear end is still snaking under acceleration and deceleration, so i decided I'd better have a closer look at the problem. As expected the balljoint are creating play and they need to be replaced asap. I've had a solid look on the net for the best upgrade without buying a whole hicas lockout system and not much luck. I have a lock bar already and i dont want to tamper with the aligment since i just paid for one. Does anyone know where i can get solid bushes to replace the worn ball joints or what the best upgrade would be. this is the only option i have found so far - http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=843. I've herd rubber(non solid bushes) would create unwanted play...

Hey Errbody I have a whole heap of GTR parts that Im looking to sell, everything is in amazing condition the car it came out of only has 60,000kms on the clock, just wanna get rid of it all so let me know.? 1x R32 GTR rear cradle with working hicas rack and working hicas pumps, sub-frame bushes in perfect condition $300.00ono 1x Full set of standard R32 GTR suspension arms (Camber,Traction,Toe) $100.00ono 1x Pair of R32 GTR rear LCA's $70.00ono 1x Pair of R32 GTR rear knuckles $70.00ono 1x Rear R32 GTR diff cover $40.00ono Im am Very negotiable on all this stuff really just looking to get rid of all this stuff. located Northern Beaches SYDNEY.. (can post anywhere really though) Can get pictures if you want, just ask PM me / MSG me or Call me on 0426982733 Cheers Josh.

Hi all, Hoping someone can shed some light on my car. just finished a 900km highway run and my car has a nasty swerve at 105-110km/h. going from 105-115km/h my R34 25GTT has a nasty swerve left- probably 1/8 turn on the steering wheel. slowing down from 115-105km/h it swerves back the other way. under a 100km/h my steering wheel sits straight, over 115km/h is cocked about 15 Deg off centre to the right. the car feels like its crab walking. I can stop and shut down the car- wait 30 secs and no issue- wait another 15-30 mins and it comes back. do i assume its the HICAS playing up? front end alignment is good. struts are good. Scared the shit out of me the first time it happened as it was in the wet. Any info/advice would be great. Cheers Matt

All parts are located in South Sydney available for pickup or postage at buyers expense. 1. R32 GTR Stock radiator - works perfectly, as seen on the picture there as a small break in the top pipe bit, could do with a flush - $50 2. Blitz dual turbo timer - works great $40 3. R32 GTR bootlid and Twing - black, as seen in the pic there is lifting where the original wing holes were needs a paint - $50 4. R32 GTR stock intercooler - works perfectly, as seen in the pic some fins are pushed in a bit, not visable when the front bar is on - $50 5. R32 GTR under bonnet carpet - $40 6. R32 GTR gearstick and stereo surround - two top clips have been properly glues n place as they were cracked no probs otherwise- $40 7. R32 GTR Aircon condenser - $50 8. R32 GTR stock caster arms - $30 9. R32 GTR intercooler brackets - $5 10. R32 GTR blow off valve return pipe to airbox - $20 11. R32 GTR front cusco height adjustable (not sure about damper) need regas-rebuild, unknown spring rates- $100 12. R32 GTR gearbox crossmember - $50 13. R32 GTR hicas thing (lol) - $50 14. R32 GTR bonnet hinges - $20 15. R32 GTR washer bottle - $5 15. R32 GTR stock dump pipes - $20 16. R32 GTR cam cover - $30 17. R32 GTR front camber arms, unknown brand - $20 18. R32 GTR front bar intercooler mesh - $40 PM or SMS 0423932605 cheers

FS: Rb25 Rocker covers Rb25 Cam Cover R33 Standard Sway Bars Rb25 Standard BOV Most suspension arms two standard wheels with 90% good tread Standard front discs HICAS bar R33 GTST cluster (Broken clear plastic front and the idle needle doesnt work) Standard exhaust manifold Standard injectors Standard intake manifold Offer me something as i need it gone ASAP Text me, Located in Hobart, If you want pictures ill send them to your mobile/email Can organise freight but its at your own risk. Deano 0413926350

I have a 1991 r32 gtr, and ever since I dropped the engine for a rebuild I’ve been having an issue where the attessa would fully engage on reverse and on first gear on slow speeds. It’s been happening for a year and now I hear a locked diff clunk when it engages again. The car is on a motec m800 ecu with the stock ecu also plugged in. I already bled the attessa system and changed the front n rear diff oil. I also unplugged the hicas fuse from the trunk to check if that was the issue, and I’ve checked all the fuses and all are fine. I’ll link the video of the attessa engaging. If anyone has any suggestions on what to do next let me know please. IMG_2154.MOV

Hi all, Can someone let me know what's interchangeable on the rear subframe between hicas and non hicas? Eg, can I slap on rear knuckles and arms from a hicas car onto a non hicas subframe providing I have the traction arms? (The knuckles are hopefully the same is my query)

Something I've been meaning to ask for a while - I have deleted HICAS via a GKTech lock bar and ages back I bought a TOG (standard ebay type) hicas delete kit which is still sitting in its box in the garage. The kit looks solid but a few things I don't see as beneficial - first of all the toe arms are the same as your camber/traction arms, as in you turn the middle section and it shortens/lengthens from both ends at once, and is a fairly coarse thread. The stock tie rods are a finer thread, and will give a much more precise adjustment turn for turn than the delete kit arms. Also on the hub end, the stock ball joints appear to maintain a better angle during up/down movement > less bump steer, with the ball joint pin allowing sideway deflection while still being " fixed"...and replacing with a poly bush bolted to the toe-arm will turn the hub more, aka inducing bump steer. What's the arguments to the benefit of going with the delete kit, apart from it being a more solid setup?

DIY: Hicas ball joint removal & replacement / Gktech lock bar install. Job: Replace worn out hicas ball joints, without removing hubs. Fit hicas lock bar. Parts needed: Gktech lock bar 2x Hicas ball joints Tools needed: Jack, Jack stands, WD40, Grease, Impact wrench, Adjustable wrench, Socket set 10-30mm, Circlip pliers, Pliers, Ball joint press kit, 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm Steel pipe, Pitman arm tool, Angle grinder, Breaker bar, Safety glasses, Hearing protection, Mask. Duration: 3-6hrs. Difficulty: Medium - Easy with the right tools. Step 1: Remove rear seat, remove battery earth and remove suspension. Then carefully jack up the car and use jack stands. Step 2. Spray wd-40 on the bolts, remove split pin and 17mm nut from ball joint/tie rod end. Step 3. Use pitman arm tool or suitable tool to remove tie rod end. Step 4. Crack the tie rods from the hicas unit under the rubber boot, unplug the hicas wiring. Step 5. Remove the 19mm bolts holding the hicas unit to the car and then remove the tie rods. Step 6. Install the tie rods into the gktech lock bar leaving the rubber boots loose. Set that aside for now. BALL JOINT REMOVAL. Step 7. Remove circlip from back of ball joint. Step 8.Cut the ball joint stud to allow more space to remove. Step 9.If you haven't removed suspension do it now.Use the ball joint press tool to press the joint out.Most kits don't come with a small enough size pipe to allow for extraction of the joint, so you will have to find a steel pipe of 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm. Very common pipe size fits perfectly. Carefully align your press tool with the pipe on the hub. I used 5mm steel plate as a backing plate and then used the correct size socket to sit flush on the back of the ball joint. This will allow you to push the ball joint through the hub towards the rear. Step 10. With the ball joint removed, clean the ball joint housing with wd40 and a rag. Step 11.Apply grease to the joint and housing. Step 12.Use a 30mm socket or similar sized pipe that fits over the rubber boot and sits on the metal rim of the joint to press the new joint in. Align the press tool with the socket and ball joints rim and start to turn the press tool to insert the joint into the hub. Joint installed. Step 13.Reinstall the circlip to the back of the ball joint. Step 14.Cable tie the hicas wiring out of the way. Install the gktech lock bar. Tighten the 19mm bolts. Check the tie rods are tight, then secure the rubber boots. Step 15.Install the tie rod ends and replace the 17mm nut and split pin. Step 16.Reinstall suspension, rear seat and wheels.Remove hicas bulb on the cluster, or cut hicas warning light wire on hicas cu in boot.Get wheel alignment.All Done.

I'm in the process of doing a full suspension refresh and would like to keep HICAS working as best/tightly as it can. I have no intention of deleting or locking it. I have the ball joints already in hand and I'm looking at the tie rod ends L/R, inner rods L/R, and 2x boot kits. Are there any other parts subject to wear that I need to refresh at the rear to do this right? Would replacing the tie rod ends or inner rods even be necessary? I figure the ball joints are a no-brainer. Thanks!

Hi guys, FOR SALE: located central coast r32 gts bonnet (black pearl metallic) complete with bonnet latch assembly - $200 r32 driftworks total hicas eliminator kit (brand new, never fitted) - $300 HFM organic heavy duty street clutch (less than 1000km driven) suit rb20 25 30 - $100 Oil Cooler 30 row with all fittings (brand new) - $150 6 bolt r32 half shafts - $50 GReddy profec boost controller (brand new, never used, in box) - $450 pick up only or buyer pays postage text or PM for details: Nathan 0423 459 086 THANKS

Up For Sale GReddy Profec Electronic Boost Controller (Brand new) - $450 r32 Driftworks total hicas eliminator kit (brand new) - $300 Location - Gosford Central Coast Contact - Nathan on 0423 459 086 Thanks.

Hi theres probably about million posts on hicas issues and i have read some of them but most the problems that i have read about are not too similar to my issues My hicas light is on almost all the time except for when the car is idling or if your cruizing at a constant speed But if its idling and the high beam lights are on or when you gradually slow down or you hold the brake on then a clunking noise starts towards the back car around the diff also as you turn the steering wheel on 45 degrees each way you get a hard spot and it click towards the front and then feels normal the rest of the way. Apparently the previous owner did bleed the power steering fluids to get the air out but it made no difference. If any legend can help me i would appreciate it greatly

I am selling a HICAS drag rod which replaces the stock HICAS system. Its brand new still in box. This is a lot better than installing a lock bar and also provides weight saving benefits once the HICAS is removed. Below is a link to the part I am selling, its excatly the same as the one listed on this website. Link: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-drag-rod-super-hicas-nissan.html I am looking for around $320, I can ship this to anywhere in Australia as well. I accept PayPal as well. I was quoted $100 to get this installed by a qualified workshop. Extract from Website link above: Description The CUSCO Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan is a must for those of you who are serious about tuning your vehicles for high speed circuit, drift, drag and all other spirited driving. Product Specs Brand: CUSCO Product: Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan Part Num: 222 474 TC SPECIFICATIONS: Features: Provide precise handling for nissan's equipped with HICAS. - The Drag Rod replaced HICAS systems, eliminating the softness feel at high speed by providing a direct feel in car control and traction. Material: Steel. COMPATIBILITY NOTES: - Only Vehicles Equipped with HICAS - R34: Only 2WD Vehicles (Except for BNR34).

Hey All Looking for some advice on how to go about reshimming the LSD for my RB25, and also looking for some info on front and rear strut braces. So the Hicas is disconnected and I'm wanting to know what else I need to do to complete the mod? I'm also rebushing the whole rear support frame for diff as it's seen better days :S So could use some tips regarding what's the best to go with. If anyone's done this or wants to throw me some advice on how to go about any of these tasks let me know, would be super grateful! Going over my car and decided to remove cooler pipes on my Blitz front mount to check oil build up and noticed the front bar had rubbed a hole into the pipe itself, I slid a silicone joiner over the hole in order to patch it up. Wondering if this is an okay solution, because the pipes come with the intercooler kit and weren't exactly cheap haha Anyways to clean oil from intercooler system? Or is that not something I should worry too much about? Would like to relocate igniter from coil pack cover...any suggestions? Advice would be appreciated

This car represents amazing value at $12,990. 2003 Nissan Stagea AXIS AUTECH, 2.5ltr V6 TURBO, tip tronic 5sp auto, All Wheel Drive (AWD), All Autech options. Engine Details in tabs at bottom are in-correct. - Engine - VQ25DET - Power - 209kW @ 6400rpm - Torque - 407Nm @ 3200rpm Complete Trasmission service with genuine nissan products - 21/02/2014 - Mechanic stated AT was in excellent condition. - New pads front and rear. - New front rotors. I have really enjoyed driving this car however it is now time to sell as I am moving overseas. This Nissan Stagea has a full service history available. Check out this well maintained car, always garaged and looked after meticulously. Genuine 120,00kms with the car having been in Australia over 2 years. Registration has been paid until January 2015. - The previous owner/importer of this vehicle had all the leather re-trimmed in a high quality off-white/ tan coloured leather which looks amazing compared to the factory trim. - GPS fixed to work in Australia along with translation of the computers menu from Japanese to English. - Reverse camera installed. - HKS coilovers fitted - Guards rolled. - Fibreglass reverse light covers (pictured) Regularly serviced, well looked after and will be extremely missed. (Swaps Considered - FD RX7, Type X 180SX, CBR600RR) PICTURES - http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Stagea-2003/SSE-AD-2583092

okay, so i know no one wants to hear about peoples hicas issues because everyone seems to have them, but mines different to anything i can find on the web. when i bought the car, the previous owner let me know that it was a bit dicked. originally i would start the car, id have power steering for about a minute, then it would go stiff (limp mode?), and then within 30 mins my hicas light would come on (and off intermittently). i also had the issue of my AWD light coming on occasionally, and id never seen the torque gauge move. ive changed nothing on the car since then (besides the drivers seat). the only thing thats changed recently as far as i can tell is the weather is alot cooler now. about two weeks ago, i noticed my torque gauge start working and i can feel AWD working. now in the last 2 days my power steering seems to be working 70% of the time. if i chuck the car into a corner hard, power steering will begin working as usual. it will cut out for random periods after that, or even semi work, as in it feels slightly firm. Im confused as f**k, and im wondering if AWD engaging is somehow kicking my power steering out of limp mode? ive never been able to get the car into diagnostics mode which led me to believe the steering angle sensor was at fault, but now i have no idea. all this shit seems completely random and its frustrating to drive. i dont want to lock it out, i like it (when it works) and yes ive checked fluid levels lol. so any ideas as to what bullshit is going on here? much appreciated you guys

Hi all, Just have a few things up for sale. gktech hicas lock bar. Suits - Nissan 180sx - Nissan S13 Silvia - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR $50 R33 skyline front upright and hubs. $20 180sx early model rear lights. $50 s13/180sx driver side door card with electric window module. $50 s13/180sx Driftworks adjustable tension brace new. $100 s13/180sx full brake setup - 4 calipers, hubs and discs. Discs are bit rusted from sitting oustide but still good. Recently resurfaced. $50 All located in Melb/Clayton just let me know if you have any questions. Cheers,

Harro, Just stuff lying around the garage, all parts are used. Factory Steering Rack Ends/Tie Rods $10 Factory Steering Tie Rod Ends $10 Factory SMIC $50 Factory SMIC piping $50 Factory Cross over pipe & BOV $50 Factory Down pipe $20 Factory Dump pipe $20 Factory Catalytic Converter $50 Factory O2 sensor $10 Factory Mint Handbrake OEM boot $10 Factory HICAS unit $20 Factory Passenger side kick panel, 1x flare clip broken $5 Factory Stock R33 Rims x4 (tyres might not pass an inspection) $100 Bendix DB1170 Front Brake Pads (Near New) - "Guaranteed Race Car Like Squeal" $30 Blitz 60mm Gauge Holder $5 Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Contacts: PM or Reply Here Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166 (AH) OR Milsons Point, NSW, 2061 (BH) Will post some items, but prefer pick-up. Will give discount on bulk purchases, and yes I accept beer as payment also (no VB, Fosters, XXXX, etc..)

Hi Guys this is a EOI right now i will be putting a better ad at up once i get time for photos, i have a heap of R33 parts left over from my old R33 i parted out a year ago, im trying to move out of home need to get rid of some parts, all the prices are negotiable, if you pick up and buy more parts I'm happy to work out some sweet deals R33 Gtst Brakes: Front and read calipers with new seals have been painted red and new TRW pads, disc's RDA slotted front and stock Rears both in VGC $650.00 R33 Gtst factory side skirts in KR4 Silver $150 R33 S2 passenger headlight VGC $200.00 R33 non-abs diff, will need to confirm the spec's i have been told this is a mechanical Diff $800 if its a mechanical $200 if its factory R33 Gtst Jic Coil overs these are pillow ball coil overs which meas there is some noise the lower rubber bushes are cracking $400 R33 Gtst rear adjustable camber and traction arms in good condition $200 R33 Hicas lock out bar $50 for the bars and $50 for the hicas tie rod arms Location: Canberra Contact: PM or feel free to call on 0403 281 three three one I'm happy to ship at your expense

Hey guys i recently bought a series 1 r33, it seems to be pretty reliable thus far but it shows signs of folks performing cosmetic enhancements without either much care or knowledge of the the mechanical side. Mainly the steering wheel. It's one of those aftermarket "drift" wheels with the silver horn and the yellow stripe at 12oclock. First thing i noticed however is that the horn doesnt work. now i assume it's because the steering wheel does not have the right connections to the car, so i need help to remove the wheel and get in there so i can find a fix, cos f**k paying the mechanics when eveything they know is learnable yourself. ive heard you can either rewire shit or buy adapters or something im not sure. But the other thing is that i believe the lack of proper connections is what's causing my hicas light to come on, and also i dont know how removing the wheel will affect the airbags (if any) and the airbag light since it seems to be off and hopefully stays that way. and will this steering wheel have any affect on how my diagnosis mode is run? Thanks in advance, i may add to this forum before anyone answers as I remember other issues and questions i have about this topic

R33 GTST HICAS problem Hi guys. I think my 33 is having the same issue as this one http://www.jdmr32.com/hicas-aftermarket-steering-wheel-error-light It will lose power steering after 10-15 minutes highway driving. I also confirmed that my current steering boss doesn't have hicas. I have ordered a boss kit with hicas (HKB on-177) from justjap. Now trying to read the steering angle from the consult port. However, it seems I am experiencing some ridiculous issued with consult interface. In Nissan DataScan free version, I can only read rpm and speed. There are a lot of other free functions but I cannot read. Dont know why. So I havent purchased a full version. ConZult-free works fine, but I find nowhere to buy its paid version. And it seems to be pretty expensive. ScanTech Nissan and TECU cannot connect. ECUTALK works fine but it doesnt have steering angle. So it is useless here. So, can anyone give me some suggestion now? I am in Mel. Can anyone help me? Or tell me a good and relatively cheap mechanic who knows skyline in Mel? I am sure glad to pay for that. Thanks guys. Michael

GTR Steering Heavy With Consult Connected I have been having some problems with the power steering in my R32 GTR when a Consult device is connected since I imported it a year ago and I am finally trying to get it sorted out. I have searched the forum and found a few related topics, but so far nothing has been able to fix the issue so I figured I would start my own thread with the hope that someone can help. Unhooking the HICAS ECU and/or cutting the green wire on the smaller plug were both recommended fixes from other threads that did not help in my case. The issue is whenever I connect a device to the consult port the steering gets really heavy. I have tried various things with the HICAS ECU (since that was the typical culprit according to other threads) with no luck. Removing the HICAS ECU completely actually makes things worse, despite the fact that I have already removed the rest of the HICAS components (installed an eliminator kit a few months back). I did a number of drive tests last night to try to narrow down the exact circumstances and have it listed out below. Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. With NO Consult Device: HICAS ECU Stock - Steering Normal HICAS ECU Small Plug Removed - Steering Normal HICAS ECU Both Plugs Removed - Steering Immediately Heavy HICAS ECU Green Wire Cut - Steering Normal With Consult Device Connected: HICAS ECU Stock - Steering Heavy After 5-10 Minutes of Driving HICAS ECU Small Plug Removed - Steering Heavy After 5-10 Minutes of Driving HICAS ECU Both Plugs Removed - Steering Immediately Heavy HICAS ECU Green Wire Cut - Steering Heavy After 5-10 Minutes of Driving Edit: Additional information that might be helpful. The steering wheel appears to be stock, but when I have the consult device connected and check Data Scan it shows the HICAS sensor is way out of place. Although if that was the issue I would think I would always have a problem, instead of only having a problem when a consult device is connected.

HKB boss kit (what is this part?) Hi! I Just recieved my new Personal Neo Grinta steering wheel today and a HKB Hicas sports III non airbag hub (ON-177) to my Skyline r33 gtst series1. I think I have figured out were everything goes except for one thing. Can someone here tell me what this part is and where it goes? im referring to the small silver ring to the right in the picture. The bigger one to the left I believe is a horn adapter? I have googled for hours but didn't find anything about this smaller ring. So If anyone here have a indentical Boss kit or can tell me what it is i'll be happy. Thanks.

GKtech Hicas Delete Hi i want to install the GKteck Hicas delete in my R34 however it does not come in a kit and I need to find my own polyurethane bushes to replace the Hicas ball joint that fits in the rear knuckle. Does anyone know where I can get the bushes required? I only want two not an entire kit. i have already tried GKtech they did not know, Whiteline and Redranger. you can see the bush (orange) in photo attached.