Search the Community

Replaced two of my power steering lines between the reservioir and chucked a seal kit in the PS pump. Now I have no Power Steering. The Hicas diagnosis comes up as Error 22 - Steering angle sensor. My question is, is the Steering angle sensor the clock spring? My car is a series 2 r33 GTST with no modifications to the steering system. I still have Hicas and the stock steering wheel.

I have a 1991 r32 gtr, and ever since I dropped the engine for a rebuild I’ve been having an issue where the attessa would fully engage on reverse and on first gear on slow speeds. It’s been happening for a year and now I hear a locked diff clunk when it engages again. The car is on a motec m800 ecu with the stock ecu also plugged in. I already bled the attessa system and changed the front n rear diff oil. I also unplugged the hicas fuse from the trunk to check if that was the issue, and I’ve checked all the fuses and all are fine. I’ll link the video of the attessa engaging. If anyone has any suggestions on what to do next let me know please. IMG_2154.MOV

Hi all, Can someone let me know what's interchangeable on the rear subframe between hicas and non hicas? Eg, can I slap on rear knuckles and arms from a hicas car onto a non hicas subframe providing I have the traction arms? (The knuckles are hopefully the same is my query)

Hi! Has anyone tried replacing the hicas computer between a r33 gtr and r33 gtst before and knows if this works? Gtst art: 2850519U10 Gtr art: 2850524U10 The reason for this is that my powersteering goes heavy from time to time, and recently stoped working fully. I did try to fix my old unit without succes. (gtst) I now have a second hand hicasbox from a R33 gtr. The units look exactly the same on the outside with identical pin connections, but Inside it looks alot diffirent! For example, In the gtst box there are 2 circuit boards, in the gtr it's only 1 etc..? I'm just want to retain the powersteering function! as my Hicas steering is removed.

So I’m new to this whole r32 thing and I’m sure this topic has been covered ten fold. Hours of research got me nowhere. But my situation is slightly different. I have a R32 GTS-t with an r33 rb25det swap. my issue is removing the hicas.. I have the R33 power steering pump that has one pressure line, yet I have that extra pressure line the R32 uses for the hicas pressure line that I’m trying to loop in to the power steering in order to maintain my power steering. I’ve deleted the Hicas pump from the frame rail, looped the cooler line and removed lines running all the way to the back. I’m just trying to now loop the second pressure line Into the power steering system. Would it be easier just to find the RB20 Gtst power steering pump with two pressure line fittings or is there something I’m missing and it’s a simple fix? as stated, super new to this please help!!!

DIY: Hicas ball joint removal & replacement / Gktech lock bar install. Job: Replace worn out hicas ball joints, without removing hubs. Fit hicas lock bar. Parts needed: Gktech lock bar 2x Hicas ball joints Tools needed: Jack, Jack stands, WD40, Grease, Impact wrench, Adjustable wrench, Socket set 10-30mm, Circlip pliers, Pliers, Ball joint press kit, 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm Steel pipe, Pitman arm tool, Angle grinder, Breaker bar, Safety glasses, Hearing protection, Mask. Duration: 3-6hrs. Difficulty: Medium - Easy with the right tools. Step 1: Remove rear seat, remove battery earth and remove suspension. Then carefully jack up the car and use jack stands. Step 2. Spray wd-40 on the bolts, remove split pin and 17mm nut from ball joint/tie rod end. Step 3. Use pitman arm tool or suitable tool to remove tie rod end. Step 4. Crack the tie rods from the hicas unit under the rubber boot, unplug the hicas wiring. Step 5. Remove the 19mm bolts holding the hicas unit to the car and then remove the tie rods. Step 6. Install the tie rods into the gktech lock bar leaving the rubber boots loose. Set that aside for now. BALL JOINT REMOVAL. Step 7. Remove circlip from back of ball joint. Step 8.Cut the ball joint stud to allow more space to remove. Step 9.If you haven't removed suspension do it now.Use the ball joint press tool to press the joint out.Most kits don't come with a small enough size pipe to allow for extraction of the joint, so you will have to find a steel pipe of 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm. Very common pipe size fits perfectly. Carefully align your press tool with the pipe on the hub. I used 5mm steel plate as a backing plate and then used the correct size socket to sit flush on the back of the ball joint. This will allow you to push the ball joint through the hub towards the rear. Step 10. With the ball joint removed, clean the ball joint housing with wd40 and a rag. Step 11.Apply grease to the joint and housing. Step 12.Use a 30mm socket or similar sized pipe that fits over the rubber boot and sits on the metal rim of the joint to press the new joint in. Align the press tool with the socket and ball joints rim and start to turn the press tool to insert the joint into the hub. Joint installed. Step 13.Reinstall the circlip to the back of the ball joint. Step 14.Cable tie the hicas wiring out of the way. Install the gktech lock bar. Tighten the 19mm bolts. Check the tie rods are tight, then secure the rubber boots. Step 15.Install the tie rod ends and replace the 17mm nut and split pin. Step 16.Reinstall suspension, rear seat and wheels.Remove hicas bulb on the cluster, or cut hicas warning light wire on hicas cu in boot.Get wheel alignment.All Done.

All items are located in SE Melbourne. But I do work in the city so happy to bring the item into work and meet up there. Best bet is to SMS me on 0402346691 and I'll reply when I can. Tomei Hicas Lock II kit (To suit BNR32 and other Nissans from the same era - please see link for full listing) Brand new (Unopened) - imported from Japan. Nobody likes HICAS hence why I bought the kit... but not something I'll be able to utilize effectively due to change in car plans. Contents as per link http://www.tomeiusa.com/_2003web-catalogue/e190_others_drivetrain.html Price: $115 Nismo 320km/hr speedo cluster (Late model - blue circuit film backing) Purchased recently off another seller but have had to sadly change the plans for my car. Has 166k kms on the speedo. All tabs in good condition. This won't suit earlier model BNR32s. Would prefer pick up/Melbourne sale just to ensure safe carriage. Price: $320 HEL braided brake lines (To suit BNR32, brand new unopened) Brand new HEL braided brake lines. Change in car plans hence sale. Improve pedal feel and replace those aging rubber lines! (Please ignore Cusco arms in pic) Price: $140

Hi new here from the US and lack knowledge on if there is a non hicas pump I can use for my RB20DET as I tried capping the 2nd port and removing the splines inside the pump and even welding it shut still leaking. I used the search on here all I could find was hicas delete kits for the rear of the vehicle not the pump I could be searching wrong. Any help would be appreciated or a specific part number for the pump I would need. Thank you in advance

All items are located in SE Melbourne. But I do work in the city so happy to bring the item into work and meet up there. Otherwise happy to post at your expense. Best bet is to SMS me on 0402346691 and I'll reply when I can. Tomei Hicas Lock II kit (To suit BNR32 and other Nissans from the same era - please see link for full listing) Brand new (Opened only to inspect) - imported from Japan. Nobody likes HICAS hence why I bought the kit... but not something I'll be able to utilize effectively due to change in car plans. Contents as per link http://www.tomeiusa.com/_2003web-catalogue/e190_others_drivetrain.html "The Tomei HICAS lock eliminates both electrically and physically the HICAS system, making it possible to control rear suspension more directly. More direct driving feel Removes the HICAS system and warning lights Removes the uncertainty of suspension movement" COMPATIBILITY NOTES: Compatible only with the following Hicas model and vehicles: Model HICAS II: - KS13 Silvia - KRS13 180SX - HCC33 Laurel - CA31 Cefiro Model SUPER HICAS: - KSP13 Silvia - KRPS13 180SX - HCR32 Skyline GTS - BNR32 Skyline GT-R - (G)CZ32 Fairlady Z Before M/C (~93.3) - PBY32 Cedric/Gloria Model SUPER HICAS: - ECR33 Skyline GTS/GTS25t - BCNR33 Skyline GT-R - CS14 Silvia - (G)CZ32 Fairlady Z After M/C (93.9~) - HBY33 Cedric/Gloria - GCC34 Laurel Price - $70 firm

Hi people, I'm looking for an r33 gtr hicas wiring harness/ plugs and hicas motor relay to do an electronic hicas conversion on my r32 gtr. I have tried all of the skyline/jap spares and wreckers I could find and haven't had any luck, if anyone on here knows where I might be able to get one or has one, it would make the project a lot easier and make it a lot neater. I have everything else ( r33 gtr hicas ECU, yaw sensor, rack assembly, clock spring and a good set of wiring diagrams which I have already cross referenced to the r32 diagram to make it work). Any info or help would be appreciated. Thanks ?

Hi, I'm new to the sau community and hope someone on here can help. I have an R32 GTR that I am swapping the hydraulic hicas system for the electronic hicas system out of an R33 GTR. I have the hicas ECU and rack assembly but I was unable to get the wiring harness/plugs and hicas motor relay and am in need of these parts to make it easier to integrate. Hoping someone on here has the bits or might know where to get them. I haven't found any info on anyone else doing this swap but if anyone has info on it or any tips it would be appreciated. Thanks,

Hi, I'm Ben and I am currently working my R32 GTR ( never ending life choice) and I have decided to upgrade the hicas system with the electronic super hicas from the R33 GTR. I have all the parts except for the hicas motor relay and the wiring harness/plugs. I know alot of people lock the hicas system out and I'm hoping someone on here has the couple of bits I need laying around that they could sell me as it would save me alot of hours in making/wiring everything from scratch. Cheers.

Hi There For sale is a r34 gtt front brake kit and r34 gtt Hicas steering rack. The Brake Kit includes front calipers, pads with little use, and discs with only a slight lip, these are good to go as is. $300 The hicas steering rack is in working condition. $50 I am happy to post at buyers expense.

Hi Guys this is a EOI right now i will be putting a better ad at up once i get time for photos, i have a heap of R33 parts left over from my old R33 i parted out a year ago, im trying to move out of home need to get rid of some parts, all the prices are negotiable, if you pick up and buy more parts I'm happy to work out some sweet deals R33 Gtst Brakes: Front and read calipers with new seals have been painted red and new TRW pads, disc's RDA slotted front and stock Rears both in VGC $650.00 R33 Gtst factory side skirts in KR4 Silver $150 R33 S2 passenger headlight VGC $200.00 R33 non-abs diff, will need to confirm the spec's i have been told this is a mechanical Diff $800 if its a mechanical $200 if its factory R33 Gtst Jic Coil overs these are pillow ball coil overs which meas there is some noise the lower rubber bushes are cracking $400 R33 Gtst rear adjustable camber and traction arms in good condition $200 R33 Hicas lock out bar $50 for the bars and $50 for the hicas tie rod arms Location: Canberra Contact: PM or feel free to call on 0403 281 three three one I'm happy to ship at your expense

A couple months ago I noticed my r33 gtst hicas ball joints were flogged but neglected the issue. I recently had a full wheel alignment done and the rear end is still snaking under acceleration and deceleration, so i decided I'd better have a closer look at the problem. As expected the balljoint are creating play and they need to be replaced asap. I've had a solid look on the net for the best upgrade without buying a whole hicas lockout system and not much luck. I have a lock bar already and i dont want to tamper with the aligment since i just paid for one. Does anyone know where i can get solid bushes to replace the worn ball joints or what the best upgrade would be. this is the only option i have found so far - http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=843. I've herd rubber(non solid bushes) would create unwanted play...

Hi all, Hoping someone can shed some light on my car. just finished a 900km highway run and my car has a nasty swerve at 105-110km/h. going from 105-115km/h my R34 25GTT has a nasty swerve left- probably 1/8 turn on the steering wheel. slowing down from 115-105km/h it swerves back the other way. under a 100km/h my steering wheel sits straight, over 115km/h is cocked about 15 Deg off centre to the right. the car feels like its crab walking. I can stop and shut down the car- wait 30 secs and no issue- wait another 15-30 mins and it comes back. do i assume its the HICAS playing up? front end alignment is good. struts are good. Scared the shit out of me the first time it happened as it was in the wet. Any info/advice would be great. Cheers Matt

okay, so i know no one wants to hear about peoples hicas issues because everyone seems to have them, but mines different to anything i can find on the web. when i bought the car, the previous owner let me know that it was a bit dicked. originally i would start the car, id have power steering for about a minute, then it would go stiff (limp mode?), and then within 30 mins my hicas light would come on (and off intermittently). i also had the issue of my AWD light coming on occasionally, and id never seen the torque gauge move. ive changed nothing on the car since then (besides the drivers seat). the only thing thats changed recently as far as i can tell is the weather is alot cooler now. about two weeks ago, i noticed my torque gauge start working and i can feel AWD working. now in the last 2 days my power steering seems to be working 70% of the time. if i chuck the car into a corner hard, power steering will begin working as usual. it will cut out for random periods after that, or even semi work, as in it feels slightly firm. Im confused as f**k, and im wondering if AWD engaging is somehow kicking my power steering out of limp mode? ive never been able to get the car into diagnostics mode which led me to believe the steering angle sensor was at fault, but now i have no idea. all this shit seems completely random and its frustrating to drive. i dont want to lock it out, i like it (when it works) and yes ive checked fluid levels lol. so any ideas as to what bullshit is going on here? much appreciated you guys

This car represents amazing value at $12,990. 2003 Nissan Stagea AXIS AUTECH, 2.5ltr V6 TURBO, tip tronic 5sp auto, All Wheel Drive (AWD), All Autech options. Engine Details in tabs at bottom are in-correct. - Engine - VQ25DET - Power - 209kW @ 6400rpm - Torque - 407Nm @ 3200rpm Complete Trasmission service with genuine nissan products - 21/02/2014 - Mechanic stated AT was in excellent condition. - New pads front and rear. - New front rotors. I have really enjoyed driving this car however it is now time to sell as I am moving overseas. This Nissan Stagea has a full service history available. Check out this well maintained car, always garaged and looked after meticulously. Genuine 120,00kms with the car having been in Australia over 2 years. Registration has been paid until January 2015. - The previous owner/importer of this vehicle had all the leather re-trimmed in a high quality off-white/ tan coloured leather which looks amazing compared to the factory trim. - GPS fixed to work in Australia along with translation of the computers menu from Japanese to English. - Reverse camera installed. - HKS coilovers fitted - Guards rolled. - Fibreglass reverse light covers (pictured) Regularly serviced, well looked after and will be extremely missed. (Swaps Considered - FD RX7, Type X 180SX, CBR600RR) PICTURES - http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Stagea-2003/SSE-AD-2583092

Hey All Looking for some advice on how to go about reshimming the LSD for my RB25, and also looking for some info on front and rear strut braces. So the Hicas is disconnected and I'm wanting to know what else I need to do to complete the mod? I'm also rebushing the whole rear support frame for diff as it's seen better days :S So could use some tips regarding what's the best to go with. If anyone's done this or wants to throw me some advice on how to go about any of these tasks let me know, would be super grateful! Going over my car and decided to remove cooler pipes on my Blitz front mount to check oil build up and noticed the front bar had rubbed a hole into the pipe itself, I slid a silicone joiner over the hole in order to patch it up. Wondering if this is an okay solution, because the pipes come with the intercooler kit and weren't exactly cheap haha Anyways to clean oil from intercooler system? Or is that not something I should worry too much about? Would like to relocate igniter from coil pack cover...any suggestions? Advice would be appreciated

I am selling a HICAS drag rod which replaces the stock HICAS system. Its brand new still in box. This is a lot better than installing a lock bar and also provides weight saving benefits once the HICAS is removed. Below is a link to the part I am selling, its excatly the same as the one listed on this website. Link: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-drag-rod-super-hicas-nissan.html I am looking for around $320, I can ship this to anywhere in Australia as well. I accept PayPal as well. I was quoted $100 to get this installed by a qualified workshop. Extract from Website link above: Description The CUSCO Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan is a must for those of you who are serious about tuning your vehicles for high speed circuit, drift, drag and all other spirited driving. Product Specs Brand: CUSCO Product: Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan Part Num: 222 474 TC SPECIFICATIONS: Features: Provide precise handling for nissan's equipped with HICAS. - The Drag Rod replaced HICAS systems, eliminating the softness feel at high speed by providing a direct feel in car control and traction. Material: Steel. COMPATIBILITY NOTES: - Only Vehicles Equipped with HICAS - R34: Only 2WD Vehicles (Except for BNR34).

Hi all, Just have a few things up for sale. gktech hicas lock bar. Suits - Nissan 180sx - Nissan S13 Silvia - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR $50 R33 skyline front upright and hubs. $20 180sx early model rear lights. $50 s13/180sx driver side door card with electric window module. $50 s13/180sx Driftworks adjustable tension brace new. $100 s13/180sx full brake setup - 4 calipers, hubs and discs. Discs are bit rusted from sitting oustide but still good. Recently resurfaced. $50 All located in Melb/Clayton just let me know if you have any questions. Cheers,

Hi guys, FOR SALE: located central coast r32 gts bonnet (black pearl metallic) complete with bonnet latch assembly - $200 r32 driftworks total hicas eliminator kit (brand new, never fitted) - $300 HFM organic heavy duty street clutch (less than 1000km driven) suit rb20 25 30 - $100 Oil Cooler 30 row with all fittings (brand new) - $150 6 bolt r32 half shafts - $50 GReddy profec boost controller (brand new, never used, in box) - $450 pick up only or buyer pays postage text or PM for details: Nathan 0423 459 086 THANKS

Harro, Just stuff lying around the garage, all parts are used. Factory Steering Rack Ends/Tie Rods $10 Factory Steering Tie Rod Ends $10 Factory SMIC $50 Factory SMIC piping $50 Factory Cross over pipe & BOV $50 Factory Down pipe $20 Factory Dump pipe $20 Factory Catalytic Converter $50 Factory O2 sensor $10 Factory Mint Handbrake OEM boot $10 Factory HICAS unit $20 Factory Passenger side kick panel, 1x flare clip broken $5 Factory Stock R33 Rims x4 (tyres might not pass an inspection) $100 Bendix DB1170 Front Brake Pads (Near New) - "Guaranteed Race Car Like Squeal" $30 Blitz 60mm Gauge Holder $5 Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Contacts: PM or Reply Here Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166 (AH) OR Milsons Point, NSW, 2061 (BH) Will post some items, but prefer pick-up. Will give discount on bulk purchases, and yes I accept beer as payment also (no VB, Fosters, XXXX, etc..)

Hi theres probably about million posts on hicas issues and i have read some of them but most the problems that i have read about are not too similar to my issues My hicas light is on almost all the time except for when the car is idling or if your cruizing at a constant speed But if its idling and the high beam lights are on or when you gradually slow down or you hold the brake on then a clunking noise starts towards the back car around the diff also as you turn the steering wheel on 45 degrees each way you get a hard spot and it click towards the front and then feels normal the rest of the way. Apparently the previous owner did bleed the power steering fluids to get the air out but it made no difference. If any legend can help me i would appreciate it greatly

Up For Sale GReddy Profec Electronic Boost Controller (Brand new) - $450 r32 Driftworks total hicas eliminator kit (brand new) - $300 Location - Gosford Central Coast Contact - Nathan on 0423 459 086 Thanks.