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Hey guys. I've got a rough idle issue on my R34 GTT RB30/25DET Neo. I've worked on my RB for years and this is the first time where I don't have a fkin clue why it's happening, its baffiling me. Here's a video of it in action: Long story short: My daily R34 decided to randomly start doing this weird RPM idle fluctuation thing and it wants to die on me sometimes and I've got a higher than normal pressure in my fuel line before the fuel rail which I'm thinking can be contributing to this issue. The long story: This is my daily and the car has always performed really well for me up n till now. It was tuned on haltech platinum pro (running on board map sensor) 4 months ago and did 440hp (on 98ron) and has been driving really well, no issues what so ever. Then one day (about a month ago) I came home from work, fuelled up, popped into the shops and then came back, got in the car to head home, started it and it started idling really rough. Like, I would start it and then it would instantly die on me. So I had to rev it to keep the engine alive and I had to baby it home. And it would also do this weird RPM fluctuations where the rpm needle on the cluster goes up fast then down fast like its glitching weirdly (can see on the video). Note: nothing has been changed on the engine since the tune nor has the ecu been plugged into anything since the tune. So this problem has occurred randomly and is still the same today. Also to note: this happened when the car was at full operating temp (was probably a 30 degree day). And the same idle issue will happen on cold starts. I've attached my complete list of mods here. I haven't been driving the car since. So I've plugged the haltech ecu into my laptop to check for any error codes, nothing. I let the engine idle and I watched the sensors on the haltech ecu manager, nothing odd, and no errors. Temps all look good. TPS voltage is good. I've got the haltech hooked up to a wide-band O2 sensor (pro sport gauge kit) and the afr starts off rich on cold start then eventually it goes to 14.2 like normal, so afr seems fine and normal to me. Since I've changed the spark plugs, it now won't die instanly on me but it still idles weirdly. The weird thing is, the RPM on my cluster fluctuates up and down but the RPM on the haltech shows normal-ish (no fluctuations). Note: the video was taken after I have done all the checks below. So here's the list of things that I've checked off and done on my list to try and eliminate possible causes: • Compression test: perfectly fine like it was before the tune (phew!😅). • Changed spark plugs to new ones: this helped a bit with the rough idle, old plugs were all black (they were about 3000kms old). • Did the old quick coil plug test by un-pluging one by one while engine is idling to hear for changes in rpm: rpm/idle changed as they should on each one. • Changed fuel filter: still the same. • Checked TPS sensor on haltech and it reads correcly. 0.45v no throttle and 4v WOT. • Cleaned IACV with a new gasket: nothing changed. • Swapped the IACV with another known working one: nothing changed. • Swapped CAS to a known working one. Nothing changed. • Unplugged the water temp sensor: I know it’s not this because when I unplug it, it would show some weird temp on the haltech software and when i plug it in it shows normal. • I've tried attaching the R35 PRP coil plug harness's ground cable to somewhere els on the head: nothing changed • I've tried putting a jumper lead on the negative battery terminal and then attaching it to the head and block to see if its a grounding issue: nothing changed. • I've checked the timing marks on the cams and crank all line up. • Changed the fuel pump horn relay (constant 12v mod) to a new one: nothing changed. • I've taken my haltech ecu out and then tested it into my brother's r34 with his map to check if the ecu is still fine, and it is. Now here's where it gets a bit interesting (and let me know if it's irrelevant); I checked the fuel pressure for the first time ever by tee'ing in a pressure gauge between the fuel filter and damper that enters into the fuel rail (can see on the video). When I prime the fuel pump, it goes to 43ish psi, which it should be according to the R34 workshop manual. Then when I go to start and idle the engine, it stays on 50psi. The workshop manual says that it should be about 32psi. So I immediately thought its my fuel pressure regulator and I changed it to a known working one. And still... it's idling at 50psi fuel pressure. When I take off the vac line on the FPR, nothing really changes. So then I changed the fuel damper that sits on the fuel rail to a known working one: still the same 50psi. Then I hooked up a long hose onto the exit of the fuel rail straight to the fuel tank flap to see if there are any blockages: it dropped a little bit by 2psi... So no real restriction in the return line. So now Im wondering, if there might be a blockage in the fuel rail or my 640cc xspurt injectors are maybe blocked? 🤷‍♂️ The question I have is; is this fuel pressure on idle (50psi) normal for an RB that has a Walbro 225 fuel pump with the constant 12v mod, with upgraded injectors + standalone ecu on a stock fuel rail and stock fpr? And would this high pressure be my main culprit for my shithouse of an idle? The other interesting thing I found/tested, was; i swapped out the cluster to my old stock nissan one to see if the RPM fluctuation thing also appears on that one, and it did the same thing weird RPM fluctuation on my old nissan cluster. So something weird electrically is going on that is contributing to this idle issue (maybe?). The fuel pressure also doesn’t seem normal, so I wanted to check in with you guys before i go pulling the fuel rail off (which is such a bitch to do!). What do you guys think this might be? Can I test some other stuff? Does the haltech platinum pro ecu have a diagnosing feature of electrical components that I can try? It can't be the tune/map because it ran perfectly fine for 3 months after the tune and no one has touched the map since. The next thing I’m tempted to try is injector cleaner which I've never tried before. Can I pour it straight into the feeding fuel line instead of in the tank? Can injector cleaners damage stuff when not diluted in the tank? mod list.txt

Hey fellas, hope you're all well so here we go I need help I rebuilt my R33 series 2 GTS-T from the ground up. The rebuilt motor is having trouble starting and idling. Rebuilt RB25DET series 2 Car kicks over then cuts out straight away, like its starved of fuel. Then when you try start it again it gets really compressiony doesn't want to start. Leave it for a min and it will, but with horrible misfire, eventually sorts itself out but not fully, hunts for a bit. Doesn't sound like it's running on 6 cylinders. Head got rebuilt, had no issues with old one, piston rings were finished so I had to rebuild it Compression ratings at 140 across all 6 Seems to be over-fueling but it's always run rich. I've checked the: Coil pack loom, tested fine Fuel pressure fine Oil pressures good Spark is fine Timing is spot on New - Walbro fuel pump - Saads fuel reg - Iridium spark plugs - AFM - K&N Oil Filter - Gates timing belt - Nissan water pump - Nissan thermostat Old (off the motor before rebuild, but were working when dismantled) - GCG high flowed turbo - GCG FMIC - Injectors and rail (standard series 2) - ECU (standard series 2) - Intake manifold (inc AAC) - Exhaust manifold - Exhaust - BOV - Alloy Radiator - Cam shafts - After market boost controller - CAS - Pod filter - Splitfire coilpacks (haven't travelled more than 3000km) Any suggestions for me to test? I'm trying to organise a new CAS to test. We were test driving the car all week in our workshop carpark after we installed the new reg and it was running really well, but was doing this same thing over a week ago. Kinda reverted to doing the same thing again unfortunately. Id appreciate any help with it, it's so close but so far omg Thanks for reading Marni