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Hi all, I need some more negative camber in the front of the R34 and got some adjustable upper control arms and radius rods: The control arms are eBay brand (nice eh) and the radius rods are SRI from Just Jap. I'd like to know the following before I start pulling the front end apart: 1. I think the OEM upper control arm is just one part whereas the replacement is in two parts. The straight bits have this 'diagonal cut' on the side - any idea which one goes on which side of the car? 2. I understand that the radius rods are the ones right next to the front swaybar, correct (see pic below)? It looks like the OEM rod has this massive rubber bush whereas the SRI pillow ball looks very small in comparison. Is this going to cause any issues? 3. Lastly, what's the best way to keep the original alignment? Just measure the original arms and rods & try to adjust the new parts as close as possible? Thanks guys! Here's some photos of the stock suspension:

HELP! I've spent the past week trying to nut this shit out, but I'm getting no where. To skip over a lot of details and cut RIGHT to the chase. I am trying to complete my stereo install on my 1989 R31 GXE. I have re-run speaker wiring to doors/parcel shelf etc. I cannot for the LIFE of me (Without fear frying my head-unit) figure out which is 12V constant. And Which is 12v Accessories/Ignition. After looking on multiple pages/sites/forums, I now know that BLUE/BLACK are the Accessories/Ignition & WHITE/GREEN is 12V Constant. However, I have 2 white/green and 2 black/blue wires: Also I was told investing in a Voltage Tester would help. I have uploaded a picture of the one I have which works on 240V accessories but will not register ANY current on any of the wires on my car. Is this perhaps due to the type of Tester I have, as it doesn't have a "ground lead"? So ultimately, buying the tester has gotten me no further along with something that should be so simple. If anyone at ALL can help me with nutting out these last 2 wires, it'd mean the world.

HELP! I've spent the past week trying to nut this shit out, but I'm getting no where. To skip over a lot of details and cut RIGHT to the chase. I am trying to complete my stereo install on my 1989 R31 GXE. I have re-run speaker wiring to doors/parcel shelf etc. I cannot for the LIFE of me (Without fear frying my head-unit) figure out which is 12V constant. And Which is 12v Accessories/Ignition. After looking on multiple pages/sites/forums, I now know that BLUE/BLACK are the Accessories/Ignition & WHITE/GREEN is 12V Constant. However, I have 2 white/green and 2 black/blue wires: Also I was told investing in a Voltage Tester would help. I have uploaded a picture of the one I have which works on 240V accessories but will not register ANY current on any of the wires on my car. Is this perhaps due to the type of Tester I have, as it doesn't have a "ground lead"? So ultimately, buying the tester has gotten me no further along with something that should be so simple. If anyone at ALL can help me with nutting out these last 2 wires, it'd mean the world.

Sup Does anyone know how to remove this screen? It came like it from Japan and does not work. I want install a double DIN but am not sure how to go about it or what the best kit is. Also heard something about needing to buy buttons for aircon when installing, do they come with the kits? Cheersssss Also does anyone have any head units they could recommend that includes a navi

Hi all, here's a writeup on the recent oil cooler kit installation on my R34 GTT. References I would recommend the following threads and pages as a reference before an installation: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79130-r33-oil-cooler-installation/page-6 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462034-oil-cooler-orientation-trans-engine-steering-etc/ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461812-oil-cooler-recommendations-for-r34-gtt/?p=7658099 http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/ http://er34.blogspot.com.au/2007/03/trustgreddy-oil-cooler-kit-installed.html http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/56507-aftermarket-oil-cooler-location-poll.html These might also help: Taking Off Gtt R34 Front Bumper With Pictures: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/248385-taking-off-gtt-r34-front-bumper/ Installing Return Flow Fmic on R34 GTT: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/288799-installing-return-flow-fmic/ R34 Gtt Front Mount Intercooler Installation: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348655-r34-gtt-front-mount-intercooler-installation/ Choosing the oil cooler kit Here's what I wanted from the kit: Full kit with a decent size core Good quality lines and fittings (JIC or similar) With thermostat as the car is both street and track Sandwich plate with spots for oil temp and pressure sensor too Prefer oil filter in original location if possible Prefer not having to bleed cooler separately when changing oil I ended up buying a Driftworks oil cooler kit off another member: http://www.driftworks.com/thermostatic-oil-cooler-kit-for-all-engines.html The kit comes with: Mocal 19 row oil cooler Mocal 92 degree thermostatic sandwich plate Braided oil cooler hoses Thermostatic sandwich plate fittings Oil filter adapter/fitting The Mocal sandwich plate doesn't have sensor fittings so I will need to use separate fittings for those. I am also planning on removing the original sensor sandwich plate I ran for my Defis, although some people do run two plates stacked: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402155-using-two-oil-sandwich-plates/ Installing the core and hoses The installation is relatively straightforward, just fiddly because there's not a whole lot of space to play with as the photos below illustrate. Have a good look around the front of the car to find and measure potential installation locations before pulling out the front bar. Generally the options are: Between radiator and intercooler seems the most common (if you don't have a FMIC you probably shouldn't worry about an oil cooler just yet...) Driver side guard Passenger side guard Some have even installed the cooler under the car, which may not be ideal for ground clearance, or airflow unless you add a shroud. Also consider any other coolers you may want to put in later; I installed a power steering cooler at the same time (in the driver side guard). Here are the general steps for installing between rad and IC: Remove engine undertray Remove guard liners Remove front bar Remove front bar support bar above the reo bar Remove reo bar Remove intercooler. I have a Trust turnflow and I ended up just loosening the clamps and moving it out a little sitting on a box because I was too slack to remove the airbox and piping.. Mock up oil cooler position! Use duct tape or whatever you need and double check the following: Sufficient clearance in every direction, also once the IC is back in place Can you connect up the oil cooler hoses? Braided hose doesn't like to do tight bends, luckily mine came with 90 degree fittings. Can you run the cooler hoses neatly into the engine bay? These commonly run under the chassis rail and above the subframe near the tow point. Do the cooler hoses reach their destination? Depending on your sandwich plate you may need some additional 45 or 90 degree Where do the horns go? I had to move one to the other side of the bonnet latch. Does the bonnet close fully? Again mine didn't at first so needed to move the horn again.. Depending on the size of the core, you can modify an auto trans cooler bracket or fabricate a new one. I cut the top part off the existing bracket and made small L brackets to securely connect the bottom part to the oil cooler core. Make a C bracket for the top of the oil cooler core and secure it to the radiator support part of the chassis. You may want to add a second vertical bracket too, depending on how well the bottom of the core is mounted. Before finalising the hose runs and tightening the hoses, put the following items back in place: Intercooler, remember to re-tighen the clamps Reo bar Front bar support bar Test fit the front bar. Does it crimp the hoses? Does anything scuff? I had to trim back the front bar vent/box near the fog light for more clearance between the front bar and the chassis rail for the oil cooler hose. Remove front bar again Make a support clip for the oil cooler hoses. I used two basic 25mm hose clips from Bunnings, padded P clips would be better. Test fit the guard liner. I had a to trim back a fair bit of plastic around the cooler hoses to get it back into place. Tighen and secure the oil cooler hoses. Think of the braided hose as sandpaper, and check for any areas where the hose may scuff the chassis or other parts. I cut off a length of clear hose and split it down the side, then secured it onto the cooler hose near the headlight and chassis rail to prevent scuffing. Once you're happy with the oil cooler placement, hose runs and clearances put the front end back together and tighten everything back up: Reo bar Front bar support bar Front bar Guard liners You may want to leave the undertray off until you've hooked up the cooler and tested everything For adjusting cooler hose lengths, turning over the engine to fill the cooler and other great tips, check out the excellent Trak-Life oil cooler writeup here: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/ I've left hooking up the oily end with my workshop, I'll add here once I have the car back. Photos Mocal sandwich plate and core: R34 GTT auto trans cooler bracket: R34 GTT auto trans cooler bracket cut to suit the Mocal core: Oil cooler core mounted between radiator and intercooler: Oil cooler hoses test run: Oil cooler hose bracket: Scuff guards made out of transparent plastic hose: Oil cooler mounted: Guard liner trimmed: Oil cooler hoses in engine bay, these need to be secured properly once the sandwich plate is in place:

Hi all, I am thinking of getting some additional power steering cooling for the track and wondering what the easiest way to do this might be. One idea I have is replacing the OEM power steering cooling loop behind the RH fog light with a leftover GTT Tiptronic auto trans cooler – would this work? Cheers guys