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Freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo, all done by the one shop except for the machining, so the reassembly/rebuild, bed in on the dyno, and final tune. So far have done just under 1000kms since getting it back, and then this tick started happening. Was a bit quieter the other day when it started, took it to the shop to have a look, was told it was likely the VCT gear had shit itself because of where the tick was situated, and to take it home, i drove home cautiously and havent driven it since, but started it up today and it was suddenly louder and more rattly. The shop is taking it back later this week to see what the go is, has anyone else had a ticking like this? Sounds like its in the head, the spun bearing it had before getting rebuilt was a deeper knock and definitely down in the bottom if the engine, different to this, its alot higher pitched Thanks in advance people! IMG_0302.mov
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MODS: I started a topic in General maintenance but, in hindsight, this topic is better suited to this section. If required, please delete/close my thread in "General Maintenance". Before I go on, I'll start by saying yes I have searched and apart from getting some very vague posts, I am yet to find an answer. Ok so the other week I replaced my speedo cable after it snapped, I took the car for a spin and it was all good. Being mainly a weekend car, I drove it the next weekend and noticed a very dull but distinctive knocking noise coming from what seems like under the bonnet or from the suspension (left side if anything). It occurs randomly, but seems as though its in sync with deviations in the road, hence why I think it is related to the suspension. Smooth roads it doesn't occur, bumpy roads its far more noticeable. Since it seemed like the bonnet may be the issue, I check tightened everything with regards to the bonnet (hinges etc.) but to no avail. The sound was still there. So on the weekend just gone, I thought I would do some checks on the car and check tighten all of the suspension to make sure it wasn't anything loose making the knocking noise. I went through the shocks (top and bottom bolts), sway bar chassis mounts, brake caliper bolts, engine cross-member bolts, caster rod bolts pretty much everything i could get to without having to take anything major off. All bolts were tight. Someone suggested that the issue may be a wheel bearing, so I went on about the checks I've seen for a busted wheel bearing. Now here's where it get's interesting: Being lazy, I didnt want to put the wheel back on. So, I pulled on the rotor (with the wheel off) on the right side ( opposite side where noise seems to be coming from) and the rotor didnt move. All good. Went to the left side (side where noise seems to be coming from), and the the rotor will wiggle about up to ~5mm. However, it is only the rotor which is moving, not the hub itself. So after doing this, I decided to put the wheels on and try. Next to no wobble from either wheel. I then checked for tie rod movement. There is very little if any in the rod ends. IIRC, the brake setup is a floating arrangement and there is no fastening mechanism directly between the hub and the rotor other than the wheel studs/nuts. In saying that, the rotors can become "bound" to the hub via heat, dirt etc. That being said, Im unsure why one side is able to be wobbled, and the other not. Furthermore, the wheel bearing from that side does make a very faint metal on metal sound like a bearing is begining to go. But it doesnt seem like this is the issue, as the knocking I'm getting I can't replicated, other than the rotor wobble. Can anyone shed some light/experience as to what they think or have found in the past? Cheers, David
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Before I go on, I'll start by saying yes I have searched and apart from getting some very vague posts, I am yet to find an answer. Ok so the other week I replaced my speedo cable after it snapped, I took the car for a spin and it was all good. Being mainly a weekend car, I drove it the next weekend and noticed a very dull but distinctive knocking noise coming from what seems like under the bonnet or from the suspension (left side if anything). It occurs randomly, but seems as though its in sync with deviations in the road, hence why I think it is related to the suspension. Smooth roads it doesn't occur, bumpy roads its far more noticeable. Since it seemed like the bonnet may be the issue, I check tightened everything with regards to the bonnet (hinges etc.) but to no avail. The sound was still there. So on the weekend just gone, I thought I would do some checks on the car and check tighten all of the suspension to make sure it wasn't anything loose making the knocking noise. I went through the shocks (top and bottom bolts), sway bar chassis mounts, brake caliper bolts, engine cross-member bolts, caster rod bolts pretty much everything i could get to without having to take anything major off. All bolts were tight. Someone suggested that the issue may be a wheel bearing, so I went on about the checks I've seen for a busted wheel bearing. Now here's where it get's interesting: Being lazy, I didnt want to put the wheel back on. So, I pulled on the rotor (with the wheel off) on the right side ( opposite side where noise seems to be coming from) and the rotor didnt move. All good. Went to the left side (side where noise seems to be coming from), and the the rotor will wiggle about up to ~5mm. However, it is only the rotor which is moving, not the hub itself. So after doing this, I decided to put the wheels on and try. Next to no wobble from either wheel. I then checked for tie rod movement. There is very little if any in the rod ends. IIRC, the brake setup is a floating arrangement and there is no fastening mechanism directly between the hub and the rotor other than the wheel studs/nuts. In saying that, the rotors can become "bound" to the hub via heat, dirt etc. That being said, Im unsure why one side is able to be wobbled, and the other not. Furthermore, the wheel bearing from that side does make a very faint metal on metal sound like a bearing is begining to go. But it doesnt seem like this is the issue, as the knocking I'm getting I can't replicated, other than the rotor wobble. Can anyone shed some light/experience as to what they think or have found in the past? Cheers, David
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Hi guys ok. my r33 gtst s1 is feeling rattley and verry uneasy to drive i think the bushes are showing there age so i think its time to start replacing. What i would like to know. Is which bushe/bushes are the most common to go that way ill get them first. the biggest uneasy thing ive noticed is i can feeleverypothole through the stearing wheel and i can feel little jerks as im driving and its getting anoying i have about 1 week till i take holidays through work so id like a list of all the bushes i would need so i can grab the parts through the week and work on the car on my time off.. Thanks -
Skyline r34 gtt (rb25det neo) I just installed some tomei poncams type b 260 degrees 9.15mm lift and as stated by tomei no need to upgrade the valve springs. i also installed the adj cam gears but only the exhaust side would fit, intake cam gear didnt match the intake camshaft. so i just used one old and one new the timing is perfect and the knock is only on idle and coming from the exhaust side. at first i thought it was the CAS but not too sure. im running stock afm and injectors at the moment but will upgrade once the knock has gone and it hasnt been tuned yet but that shouldnt cause a knock. any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.
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Hi all, Once again i've come to you in need of some help. My car ('93 R33 gtst) has recently started playing up, in the last month or so what's been happening is under load, full boost and high rpm, the engine light has been flashing. I've done alot of reading up on this and found that it is serious and requires attention. So this is me attending to it The mods on my car are as follows, Power FC Splitfire Blue jackets Boost T Currently running 12psi Highflowed turbo (OP6-hypergear ~480hp?) Greddy Front mount Bosch 040 Custom 3" straight pipe all the way through Standard injectors Standard afm What happens is when the car is warm (water temp ~82-84c) and I open throttle in either 1st or 3rd, from about 5000rpm the engine light will give me about 4 or 5 consecutive flashes. On the pfc display I get a peak knock reading of anywhere between 85 and 130. I don't have a wideband so i dont know what my afr is but I'm quite certain its leaning out badly. The guy i bought the car from said that it was tuned to 15psi (which i now think is bullshite) so running it at 12 psi shouldn't be causing it to knock so much. I'm in the process of getting a z32 and nismo 740's What i need to know is should I go ahead and keep driving it? Should I get it retuned? Should I wait until i have the afm and injectors then get it tuned? Just some advice would be nice as a mate of mine just blew his engine which had similar issues previously. Sorry for the long post... Any help is much appreciated Cheers Nev
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After having attempted to find out which cylinders I will need to focus my knock listening on for my buddies R32 GTR, my searches have come up dry. So I come here to inquire as to your experiences with which cylinders are more likely to knock or knock sooner or more frequently than others in high horsepower applications. I will update this once I get a chance with the actual full build list if required but here's the basics: Built RB26 block and head, Kelford 182-C 282dur 9.2mm cams, Upgraded housing and T51R mod GTX3582R Gen 2 Billet wheel/BB, 100mil jdm intercooler, super fire coil packs, Frenchy's twin fuel hanger with dual Walbro 450s, n1 oil pump w billet gears, PRP adjustable cam gears, Nitto head oil drain, Mishimoto rad & fans, id1300cc injectors, flex fuel kit, billet fuel rail, ported stock intake manifold??(might change), can't think of anything else at this point, lmk if there's anything else. In addition, I was curious if the build would be better off with a Haltech or link or the many others that are slipping my mind, or is it mostly personal preference? -
Knocking coming from r33 gtst rear Hey there, So recently I noticed quite a loud knocking sound coming from the right rear and sometimes the left front of my r33 gtst. I notice it more from the rear when going over bumps (kinda sounds like metal on metal) and notice it from the front when turning into my driveway. Just wondering what you guys think it could be, I was thinking maybe the cv joints or the shocks, but that is just an idea from reading other posts. Cheers
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Hey guys thought id post this up and see if you guys are hearing it too. I feel like there is a faint rod knock going on. Or maybe im just hearing things. the engine has 188km's on it, early model rb 1990, bone stock when I received it... not sure how hard the car was driven in the past. I am currently running Redline 5w-40 in it. thanks https://youtu.be/2Fl2xR64F-E
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Soooo, I have a s2 rb25 in a stagea. Power FC, splitfires, z32 afm, td06, nismo 550cc injectors, gtr fuel, tuned at 18psi. Has been running fine for 6 months until yesterday it has developed a misfire under load and full boost. Seems ok at very light load and cruising. Has constant miss when you stand on it and try and rev it out, also get a lot of black smoke out back. Knock doesn't go above 18 with this happening. I checked injector value in pfc and it got up to 90% just once, normally around 68-70% WOT. AFM voltage with car off is 0.42v according to the power fc and 1.72v at cruise approx. I took plugs out (bpr7es gapped at 0.7), and swapped with some other spares I had laying around (not new but known working) and made very little difference. I sprayed all the vac lines and hose clamps with brake cleaner but no change in idle speed. I did find 1 loose hose clamp after the turbo outlet under the air filter, but after tightening that, no change has been observed. It was dark when I got into changing the plugs so I couldn't inspect the coil packs thoroughly. Might get around to it on the weekend. Any suggestions.
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Hi, I recently purchased a Rb25det neo 2wd from a local engine importer. Got it fired up today and it sounds like this.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OPOKP1BBgA Open downpipe. Any ideas?
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Any help would be appreciated. I had a spark plug ceramic crack while doing a top speed run lost half of the power at 200kmh. Pulled over and the car sounded like a wrx, putted home pulled coil packs found bad spark plug installed all new plugs now I'm left with this slap that you can only hear up to 2500rpm 20180409_091851.mp4 20180409_091851.mp4
