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Currently have my engine out for a rebuild, and doing some other works on the rest of the car while it sits, like taking the steering wheel off to replace the clock spring and removing the wiring and button the previous owner wired in to the dash to make the horn work. My dash lights like the ABS, AIR BAG, HICAS, etc that come on when you turn accessories on as well as the climate control unit stay on when the ignition is off and key is taken out. Unfortunately Im not sure if this was happening before i pulled the steering wheel off and replaced the clock spring. Is this likely just something with the wiring that will be sorted when the engine is back in and everything wired up? Or could it be something from the wiring under the dash with the ignition? Thanks in advance

Hi 32 GTR drivers side guard black in great condition with all brackets, mounts and badges $260 no dings or previous repairs. 32 GTR Boot lid with N1 carbon lip, genuine spoiler and badges in blue $285 32 GTR door glass rare with no scratches or tint. $140 each 32 GTR Door left and right Blue plus right one in Black. $175 each 32 GTR & GTST drivers side control panel for windows, mirrors, $90 either side Relay $65 motor $80 32 GTR side mirrors $45 each includes wiring 32 GTR tail light in black or white $45 each 32 GTR rear bar in Black $150 32 GTR rear reo $120 Reverse lights $85 Number plate lights $35 • Spitfire made in Japan Less then 5000klm in the box, 100% • Application: o Nissan Skyline GTR R32 R33 RB26DETT o Nissan RB25 RB20 Series 1 o $400 Delivered express post with tracking ID OS Giken 32 GTR twin plate clutch over 90% new with no launches $1000 over 2k new Pickup Brisbane or I can box up for courier quote go to www.e-go.com.au Regards Taylor 0408188777

1992 HCR32 GTST - REAR END DAMAGE. COLOUR: GUN METAL GREY Location: Holsworthy NSW 2173 PICKUP IS PREFERRED, HOWEVER POSTAGE CAN BE ARRANGED AT **BUYERS** EXPENSE. Contact; PM is preferred or SMS to 0435 120 602. If you wish to talk over the phone feel free to try ringing me, however reception is bad and i cannot answer my phone during work hours. Also pretty busy on weekends.. so good luck! If someone wants the shell whole, let me know and we can discuss a price. Please ask for parts if not listed, the whole rolling shell is available (bar a few items). I will list the big ticket items. Car needs to remain rolling for the time being, so suspension / 5 stud / brakes will be sold last. Everything is as pictured, if you require more pictures please notify me so that i can attain them for you. Please NOTE ** ENGINE AND GEARBOX + TAIL SHAFT ARE NOT AVAILABLE. Please NOTE ** ALL PANELS ARE GUNMETAL GREY, EXCEPT CARBON FIBER BONNET .. IT LOOKS LIKE CARBON FIBER.. AVAILABLE NOW; Front bar as pictured (pretty average condition, would suit drift pig) - $50 Front Reo - $100 Front Sway bar - $40 Rear Sway bar - $40 Smoked out indicators (mint condition) - $80 LH + RH Doors (passenger door near mint, drivers side average condition - $100 ea. RB26 FRONT PIPES (twin 2.5" inlets to approx 3" rear) - $150 Aircon / Heater Vents all available except drivers lower vent - $100 for all (purchaser will need to remove most likely) ?? LH + RH OEM Indicators (mint) - $150 pair Windscreen Washer bottle, not leaking - $20 Coolant Overflow Resevoir, not leaking - $20 Power Steering Resevoir, not leaking - $20 Drivers and Passenger seats, passenger in good condition, driver side has typical tear in bolster apart from that good condition nice and clean etc - $80 for pair Rear Seat excellent condition - $50 Centre Console in ok condition - $50 Faschia Surround, one clip broken apart from that decent condition - $50 Seatbelts FRONT ONLY ADR APPROVED - $20 Rear Window Wiper Motor / Blade Assy - $20 Skyline Door Trims, both in good condition - $40 pair Fuel Flap - $20 GTSt OEM Spoiler w/ Integrated brake light - $80 2 x K&N Pod Filters suit RB26 - $150 Standard LSD, still nice and tight - $200 ALL GLASS AVAILABLE IN GOOD COND - BUYER REQUIRED TO ORGANISE REMOVAL PRICE: TBA ?? AVAILABLE LATER; Tien Super Streets - condition TBA - price TBA R32 GTR Front + Rear Brakes w/ DBA4000 Series Rotors front and rear with pleanty of life. Unsure what pads are on there but they are yours regardless. Can also sell 5 stud conversion / hubs etc.. - $400 for Calipers / Rotors / Pads. Hubs will be extra. I also have some gear that i'm not sure i want to sell.. however let me know if your really keen.. and willing the pay the coin. Genuine N1 GTR Headlights, Immaculate - $350 pair Mu's Secret Carbon Fiber Bonnet w/ bonnet pins - $100 LH + RH Side skirts (good condition) - $200 pair LH + RH Guards in decent condition - $200 pair R32 GTR NISMO CLUSTER 260kph / 10k rpm ODO 78568 - $300 Trust Front Mount I/C NO PIPING - $150

Hey so up for sale are the V35 Series 1 Sedan Tail Lights with Trunk Portion $320 ONO These wheels on my car are on sale as well, here are some pics They are the HR Racing HR-472 Dull Black w/ Red lip around the wheels in 19x8 around 35 offset all round with tires, still has some good amount of tread left. Gutter rashes here and there $650 ONO

Hey folks As the title suggests - chasing a pair of clear headlight covers/lenses for a r32. I believe the gtst and gtr/n1 headlights are same size. Any suggestions or tips? Or if you have some for sale from a pair you are wrecking. Don't even mind paying for headlights as well if the price is right but preferrably chasing lenses only. Something like these: Nik 0467003003

Hey everyone, I am currently doing a r32.4 build, but just doing the front end conversion, Im just wondering if anyone has done this before as I need some advice. Ive got my self the front end of the body kit, veilside 34 gtr bonnet, 34 xenon headlights and nismo side indicators.. all i have to get now is the front indicators, but the problem I have at the moment is I dont really know how to hook up the indicators etc. Do I have to get my hands on a 34 indicator loom or something.. any advice will be appreciated if people are interested in this thread I willl upload pictures etc as time goes on.

Hey guys i was just wondering what is the most brightest H1 globes that you can go up to in victoria

hi guys im looking for indicators to suite this front bar if possible if anyone has any locally ? i need them urgently before i get yellow stickered for not even having indicators at all attached im not really fussy just anything that will work even GTR R34 ones if theyll fit

Hi all. I know this has been done before, but i am doing this again with a video to make it a bit easier for people to visualise what needs to be done! I have attached a video below of the process of installing the fog lights into your S15 weather they are factory or aftermarket the process is similar. This is a LOT easier and quicker if you have an imported S15 from japan, if you have an ADM (and possible NZD) s15, this process might be a bit longer for you, but will explain your extras in the write up and briefly in the video. Come along for the install! Written Tut! Ok so for those of you who would like some more info, or prefer a read up, here is is in a step by step fashion please drop any questions below! Step 1: You will need the following: - An S15 - A set of factory or aftermarket fog lights - You may also need some 6mm thread nuts and bolts and some washers from memory to mount the lights into the bumper - FOR IMPORTED SILVIA: - You may need an indicator stalk with the fog light switch, else you can follow the ADM/NZ optional Extras to get yours working. (if you are missing the stalk and want one, please PM me on YouTube as i am more likely to see it sooner, or you can PM me here and i will try get back to you as soon as i can with info on how to get one, or if i can source you one) - FOR ADM/NZ MODELS ONLY: - You will need a inline Fuse - Some wire (12 - 14 gauge) - A Switch which Turns you on.. ehem i mean, can be used to Turn on your Fog Lights (Honestly any switch which you would like to use will do, just keep in mind you need to mount this somewhere you can access it) Step 2 (optional): You may want to remove your front bumper for ease of access, or maybe not, i did, good luck should you choose not to Step 2.5: If you are trying to remove your bumper, i have circled the screw location in the video: - There are some near the wheel well closer to the wheel - One inside the bumper up near the light on each side -The ones at the front in between the lights - You may also have some at the bottom if you have a lip, or not Step 3: If your bumper has any mesh or covers where the fog lights go, you will need to remove them at this point. The ones from the non - Aero bar must be unscrewed from the inside, and then slid out from the inside. I assume those on the Aero Bumper are the same (if someone can confirm i will update Thanks) Step 4: Before we mount everything in place, we will test the lights to make sure they work! - If you have an imported SILVIA and are using the factory fog lights, please plug them both into the plugs which you can find around where they will sit on the bumper. If you cannot find the plugs, it is likely you have an ADM or NZ model of the S15, and you will need to do some additional work - If you are using aftermarket fog lights and you have a SILVIA with the plugs, you will need to create an adapter by buying the plug from a wrecker, or online if you can find them, or by using some spade connectors (probably the easiest option as i believe they will fit) - If you are using factory/aftermarket fog lights and you have an ADM/NZ model S15 without the plugs you will need to run wiring to the cabin yourself. Step 4.5(For ADM/NZ Models ONLY): You will need to make your own wiring for this, i am not 100% sure if your s15 comes with the relay or fuse, but no matter, we can do this without any factory wiring, follow the next few steps - You will need to create a plug which goes into your Fog Lights, weather they are factory or aftermarket, you should have 2 wires coming off each at this point. (i would use spade connectors as above but up to you) - You need to choose where you want to draw the power from at this point, You can grab it directly from the battery if you want, probably the easiest way, otherwise you will need to find a fuse you can tap into, i would use the battery but this is up to you. Find your power source. - Wire in your in-line Fuse, i recommend 30 amps, if you believe you know better please do as you like (we don't like fires here...) - Run your wire into the cabin if you are getting power from outside, there is a grommet under the driver side fender which does into driver foot well, run the positive cable into here and then wire in your switch and mount it somewhere accessible to you! - Run the negative off the switch back through the grommet and outside the cabin, into the bay, then rout it down to roughly where your fog lights will be - You will need to split your power source cable and make sure to leave some slack for each connector as you should plug them in before mounting the bumper back - Terminate the wire into either the proper connector or spade connectors (pick your poison) and then join both neg cables back together to make your life easy, and rout the neg to a bolt which connects straight to the chassy to ground the connection. Step 4.6(For SILVIA Import Model From Japan): - If you have an Indicator Stalk with the fog light switch, you do not need to follow the next part of this step - If you do not have the fog light switch on your stalk, you can either buy one and fit it, or follow step 4.5 to install the lights as you would in the ADM/NZ model, or you can do some research to find out where you can tap into the factory wiring in the cabin and just wire the switch in there (i did not go through this so cannot offer much assistance, but if you do go through this, please comment and let us know how you did it, would love to add the info to the Tutorial ) Step 5: Test your lights to see if they Turn on Step 6: If Step 5 was Successful go to step 7, if the lights did not come on, please make sure to check your wiring, or try reversing the polarity as you might have plugged positive into negative on the fog light. If this does not fix your issue, you need to make sure your wire is plugged in and perhaps try using a multi meter to test for power and ground. If you are using factory wiring make sure the fuse and relay are installed in the fuse and relay box Step 7: Unplug your lights and mount them into the bumper (factory will go straight in, just need the mentioned bolts from above) If you have aftermarket lights, you might need to make your own bracket. Step 8: Mount your bumper back onto the car and plug the lights in at the same time Step 9: Clean and final test! Step 10: Profit? Please post some pics below of how yours turned out and what you did. Keen to see outcomes. Please feel free to let me know if there is anything i missed as i would like to make this the most accurate and up to date tut there is. Thanks and good luck!

Hi all, Im not sure if this topic has been covered before, but Im sure this might apply to some of you. Have front end damage on my car, where the xenon light "clips" or tabs for screwing onto headlight bracket has been broken. Also has some damage to the light housing itself. Anyone tried to fix this problem by fabricating a custom mounting plate instead of shelling out hundreds of $$$ to replace the whole unit? Any suggestions on where I can get this done or is it achievable as a DIY? Picture below as reference

Hi guys, Have had this issue with my R34 N/A sedan for a little while now. Probably about 3 months ago, whenever i would flick to high beams, my cd player would turn off and then turn back on. My speedo backlights would also flicker. I had my battery tested (which was the same battery which came with it from Japan), and was told it was not performing well, and purchased another. I believe that my alternator was also tested at this stage, and came up fine. A few weeks later, I had the same issue. So, I popped the bonnet and had a look at the battery terminals, just out of curiosity. The positive terminal appeared very SLIGHTLY loose, so i tightened it, and also cleaned it up a bit. Problems were gone, and no issues for another 2-3 months. Until tonight. Driving home, popped high beams on, and boom, headunit goes off, backlights flicker, and even the A/T light is glowing at me. I was pretty spooked by the A/T light, as I hadnt had this issue before. Anyway, I arrived at my home, and the light was off, and my high beams no longer affected any other components in my car. (I had been driving for 30 minutes - discovering the issue again in the meantime) I have these Ebay LED's in my parkers. And the rest of my headlights are standard Xenons. My headunit was also professionally installed. Can anybody lend any thoughts? Thanks!

Hi all, Just have a few things up for sale. gktech hicas lock bar. Suits - Nissan 180sx - Nissan S13 Silvia - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR $50 R33 skyline front upright and hubs. $20 180sx early model rear lights. $50 s13/180sx driver side door card with electric window module. $50 s13/180sx Driftworks adjustable tension brace new. $100 s13/180sx full brake setup - 4 calipers, hubs and discs. Discs are bit rusted from sitting oustide but still good. Recently resurfaced. $50 All located in Melb/Clayton just let me know if you have any questions. Cheers,

Both are in very good condition,also fits r34 GTR apparently. I might sell them separately,pickups at Mt.Gravatt Brisbane,can dropoff locally or post them. Asking $170 for the pair

i was wondering if theres any way to change the lighting inside my 2003 skyline, im not really into the orange lighting everywhere e.g. stereo, speedo, clock etc. id like to go for a whitish blue colour, kind of like in tron legacy colour scheme haha cheers

Hey guys, Member on here for a long time but haven't visited the forum in ages. Have a 95 R33 GTST I was pinching parts from for my R32 & it's time to get rid of the last of the parts & the shell. Everything I'm listing is in good condition (unless mentioned) but has been sitting round for a while so needs a clean & some TLC. Feel free to make any reasonable offers... * Boot (incl. spoiler, struts, interior trim, etc) Silver. No lock. $150 * Bonnet (needs respray) $75 * Electric antenna $50 * Sill panels $30 pair * Fuel flap (silver) $15 * Pass kick panel (with fuseholder) $15 * Rad support $30 * Roof grab handles $20 pair * Centre console (no lid or handbrake boot) $50 * Radiator shroud (NO cracks, etc) $30 * Cluster surround $20 * B/C pillar trim $50 pair * A pillar trim $25 pair * D/S front guard (Silver) $75 * Taillights $150 pair * Dash vent (passenger far side) $20 * Front seatbelts $30 pair * Roof dome lights (front & centre) $15 ea All prices are negotiable & located in Cranbourne, VIC. This is all the major parts (so please don't ask if I have gearbox, brakes, etc, etc) however there is a lot of small parts I haven't bothered listing so send me a PM or SMS if you have something small in mind as I may have it. Can be reached on 0423 303 007, preferably by SMS due to work. Can take pics of panels, etc for serious buyers but we all know what most of this stuff looks like...

Wrecking 200ZR Everything is available MINUS motor & gearbox Message me a price and we can sort out a deal, Can post Text 0451490030

Wrecking R32 GTS-T. Main items listed below, however too many parts to list them all. If you need something, just ask as there is every chance i'll have it. Also have a few other random parts from RB25 and RB26. See bottom of post. Pickup from either Traralgon or Melbourne - Sth eastern suburbs. Happy to post if buyer pays postage. Can supply more info and better photos for anything on request. PM, or call / SMS - Mike 0412 678 973 Front guards - Both LHS & RHS. Black. No dents or creases. $50 each Rear bar (not inc reverse lights) $60 Boot lid $50 Headlights $80 each, or $150 pair Rear lights $40 each, or $70 pair Indicators - 1 x LHS clear, 1 x LHS orange, 1 x RHS smoke $50 each Complete dash - has the bubble in the usual place. See pics. $100 Glove box/s $30 Center console/s $30 Speedo/gauge cluster 139xxx km's $80 Speedo surround (inc headlight switches etc) - one in standard black, one painted silver - see photos. $60 each Kick panels LHS & RHS available $20 each Steering wheel surround plastics $30 AC/Climate control unit $40 Plastic stereo surround - painted silver - cracked at bottom $20 Gearbox/manual conversion kit - everything except flywheel $750 Top mix racing seat - no rails. Set up in fixed position in R32. $80 Standard seats - driver and passenger - good condition $35 each Standard radiator $80 Standard fan $20 R33 RB25 tailshaft $100 Standard RB26 turbos - excellent condition $250 RB26 airbox $60 More available that i have forgotten about. Just ask if you need anything in particular. Prices on most things are negotiable. Happy to consider reasonable offers. Mike - 0412 678 973

Hi all, I'm fitting some stock tail lights on my R34 after I got rid of my faded LED pair, and I noticed that the inner set of lights (smaller circle) take a pair of bulbs that I can't seem to find. Correct me if I'm wrong, but are these supposed to light up when the headlights are on? I've looked around, and the general consensus seems to be that T10 wedge types will work just fine, but they don't seem to fit on the sockets - no click can be felt or heard when they go into the sockets (using 12V 5W T-10mm, capless). I strongly feel that the plugs on the bulb are not long enough to reach the socket's metal contacts. After fitting them they don't turn on when the headlights are on, but brake lights work when pressing on brake and indicators work fine too. Is there another type of bulb that works with the inner circle? It could also be a fuse problem, but indicators and brake lights are working on both clusters, so I'm really confused about this. I've also tried fitting all four bulbs and then turning on the lights, but no dice. I've bought enough ill-fitting bulbs to create a shop of my own at this stage. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I've attached a photo to show which part of the light I'm referring to. Thanks!

I've developed a bit of a problem with my R34 lately. Every know and then either as I'm driving or when I start the car up the following happens: Tachometer, speedometer and engine temperature gauge stop working Check engine light comes on TCS OFF and Slip light comes on HICAS Light comes on Central locking stop working Cigarette lighter dies Then eventually they will all start working again. Car runs fine the entire time. Any suggestions on problem/cause/solution or if anyone has experienced this before? Cheers!

Hey guys i have a bunch of 4ft fluro lights in the for sale area... im only putting this up here to keep it local :-) $20 each.... $15 if u want 11 or more... all in perfect working order - happy to test in front of you at my place. give me a call or msg if you want any 0410 529 460 Cheers Greg

I'm selling the below parts off my GTT. They are all the old parts I had laying around after doing my last upgrades, most are in great condition. Rear suspension | R34 GTT (fork type) - JIC Magic (Left seems to have lost pressure), otherwise excellent condition, no rubber cracks at all - $200 Stock internal fuel pump for R34 GTT - $50 Stock air flow meter - $50 Stock cat converter - $50 Stock mirrors in gloss black, great condition but right mirror is missing the plastic that connects to door - $50 Return flow intercooler 600x240x60, excellent condition - $200 Rear seat belts with coils, excellent condition - $50 Rear stock seats, slight staining on seats but can probably be cleaned - $150 Stock right head light, none xenon, broken clips and floating clear plastic bit on inside - $200 I have pictures of everything so just send me a text on 0431516718 and I'll send a picture of whichever part. Pickup from Adelaide or bank deposit+postage at buyers expense. Cheers, Tom

Nissan Skyline R33 Series I guards front right and left grey in colour excellent condition $80 each or both $130 Headlights 3 in total $50-$100 each. Steering wheel no airbag $90. Nissan Skyline R33 Series II fog lights $60. Series II Grill white in colour small crack $70.

V36 Front Bar Hi Does anyone out there with an 07 V36 Sedan Type S know the height of the bezel/grille in the front bar, where fog lights would normally go. Also is it removable? I've tried looking at pictures and it seems small. I want to fit 90mm lights down there and Im preparing in advance so I dont have a car to look at. Pics for clarification. Any help greatly appreciated.

Park lights wiring hiccup Hey guys and gals I'm having a bit of trouble with the recently Rb swapped s13. It now idles which is mint. But I cant leave the battery connected 'cos the park lights (clearance lights according to FSM) get constant power.. This is my first attempt at doing anything like this myself and so far its been all good. engine is in, running, all lights work properly (except the obvious), the stereo is pumping out sounds, new interior is in (seats, dash. carpet, the works) and paint is on the way. The problem I've run into now is that the whole 'exterior lamp' circuit gets constant power. So my clearance lamps and tail lights are always on. In turn, the dash, licence plate lights and heater control unit lights are always on too. I am not overly competent with wiring. I can do it... slowly. Definitely getting quicker and better with experience. I don't know much of the technical lingo and there is a lot of it that I do not understand. Thus why Im after a wee bit of advice. I have pulled all fuses (engine fuse box and kick panel fuse box) and these lights stay on. Unless you remove the alternator fuse. Then they are off. I also tried unplugging the switch up by the steering wheel and the exterior lamp circuit is still powered. If you twist the switch to the 1st position (ON) then the lights become a little bit brighter. Not much, but just noticeable. Had a mate here for a few days (happens to be an auto sparky). Couldn't figure it out in his time here. To be fair, we had no wiring diagram then and were doing other bits n pieces too. If someone reading this is electrically savvy and you want to help, let me know what you need to see pictures of. I've made the full 900 odd page manual with wiring diagrams etc and can post up pics. this just has me stumped. Where do I start? What would you do? Cheers guys Sean

R33 S2 Angel Eyes Fog Lights LED Basically replacing the series 2 clear fog lights located on the front bar with led angel eye projector fog lights. They will sit in place of the original glass lens sitting on a custom acrylic bracket to hold it in place and present a visually pleasing and professional look also keeping it weatherproof and maintaining the circular style. NOTE: Will be posting more pics later just a rough idea