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Showing results for tags 'm35'.
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I have been looking everywhere for one but i can never find one. just seeing if anyone has any for sale or to point me in the right direction to get one hopefully in SA, i’d be really greatful. cheers
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From the album: WHOP
This is the first hoist I fitted in my Stagea. It was pure CR*P.... New One works far better -
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Just noticed some leaking from the power steering rack when I had the wheel off. Not entirely old residue, there was a couple fresh looking drops on it. Haven't noticed anything weird with the steering yet, so assuming relatively fresh leak. Any thoughts on how to go about fixing this? It seems to be only surrounding that large bolt.
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Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a 2002 Stagea and after opening the rear sunroof I found out that nothing happens when you press the close switch so it is now stuck open. I am wondering if there is any kind of emergency close solution for when the motor doesn't work? I would also like to know what the best option is for finding a replacement motor, in case fixing it properly is a worthwhile option, and finally if there are any recommended mechanics around Adelaide who know what they're doing with Stageas?
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Hi All, I've ordered an NM35 from Japan! I live in Perth but do regular windsurfing trips to Exmouth (~1200km) and Geraldton (~400km) and wanted something more spacious and interesting than my Forester. Because of sport and the family business I've always needed bigger cars and never owned anything that inspired me to work on it, until I heard about the Stagea. After trawling the forums here I decided to bite the bullet and ordered one a couple of weeks ago. It's still ~8 weeks away but I've already got a list of upgrades I want to make to it. I've got a reasonable idea of what upgrades I want but would really like to get some feedback and hear the experiences of others. Is there a particular part of the Wagoneers forum I should post in? Cheers, Mitch
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Firstly - mods if this post is not allowed or in the wrong section please move/ delete! Do you have an M35 stagea in white? (paint code QX1)I am looking for expressions of interest to trade front end parts with you. I'm after guards, bonnet, lights, radiator support, grille and front bumper (plus all the little clips and bolts)In exchange you would get very clean, white, series 2 V35 bonnet, lights, bumper, guards, radiator support and grille. You'd get a v35 front end on your Stag and I'd get your parts.Have no idea how likely this is to work but if you don't ask you'll never know. Pic attached of my car and happy to post more photos for interested parties.Located Sydney and happy to travel to help uninstall your parts if need be! Thanks,Mark
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I bought an M35 last week and after trolling the forums all weekend I have a couple newb questions about brakes and suspension.... Looks like I'm running stock brakes at the moment and when I brake the car will shudder quite a bit, I haven't been able to get the car in the air yet, but I'm assuming it's warped rotors. I'm a why replace when you can upgrade sort of guy and from hunting around the boards it seems the 350z calipers and are a straight bolt on apart from possibly needing wheel spacers? Are there any specifics I need to know? Year range, model variants etc? I've also noticed a clunk in the suspension somewhere, looking at the notes from a service last year the mechanic said the was a knock in front shocks, so I'm assuming I'll be up for new suspension very soon. This is going to be my daily school bus/shopping trolley (got motorbikes for when I want to go proper fast), so I don't want it to be too stiff. I've seen a lot of people here recommend BC coilovers. I ran the V1's in my RS Liberty with Whiteline everything and even on the softest damper setting it was still quite hard (To be fair I'd stripped a lot of weight out of the RS, could have something to do with it?). Is any sort of ride comfort possible int he Stagea with the BC's? Or should I look at getting some Bilsteins with circlip grooves machined into them? She's booked in at a good mechanic late next week for a proper going over, but I'd love to have a bit of info myself before then. Anyway I guess I should post some pics.
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Stolen from long term car parking at the Melbourne Airport. This morning 24th December 2019. Merry Christmas hay. Please contact me if anybody has seen anything. Not insured! Brand new Dunlop Sportsmaxx tyres too! Rego is CM21PA from NSW. Copy BBS wheels, right hand passenger door is a replacement with chrome trim coverd by black sticker that is peeling off. Blue silicon turbo intake bit under bonnet, cream interior with some cuts in leather driver and passenger seats, pram in the back and kids toys. Thanks guys. I will post up my Vin when I can find it. But it ends with 7550. Thank you.
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On the 32 GTR, this hack; uses a diode to make the auxiliary fan come on when the air con is turned on. On the 32 It seemed to keep the coolant temp down and the cabin cooler. I'd like to try it on the Stag. Looks like there's no relay/fuses for air con presented at the wiring junction near the battery. Has anyone got a wiring diagram or a translation for the footwell fuse box? Other than waiting until the next overheat, how would i check that the aux fan is running at all?
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I bought this car approximately 1.5 years ago, and I planned to keep it for quite a while thanks to the low kms at the time of purchase (approximately 55,000). However, personal circumstances have changed and now I need to sell it. In no particular order, here are the major features: Front and rear power sunroof, with lockout switch for rear sunroof. Factory radar cruiser control. After market alarm and immobiliser (installed during compliance). 4WD, 4 Wheel Steering (HICAS) and LSD. 5-Speed Automatic with manual control. I obtained a suitable paddle-shifter from a V35 Nissan Skyline 350GT-8, but I never got around to installing it (happy to throw this in at no extra charge). Factory Japanese DVD Navigation System with factory screen (menus are untranslated). RCA inputs for audio/video playback. Factory head unit, with cassette tape/CD/Mini-Disc playback support (Mini-Disc Changer is in the centre storage bin). Factory reverse camera. Driver and Passenger electronic/heated seats, with manually adjustable lumbar support on driver seat. Full factory leather interior, with matching leather trim. Front and rear factory carpets, including factory boot carpet. Factory tyre-jack set/spare wheel. Factory cargo net. Factory cargo cover. Factory rear seat-belt for middle passenger, and rear child-proof seat-belt clasp. Driver/passenger front and side airbags, curtain airbags for 2nd row Front and rear fog lights. Height adjustable faxtory Xenon headlights. Completely mechanically stock, with no alterations or non-factory modifications other than a new battery (less than 1 year ago). Brake cut-off mod completed recently, with switch installed in back of glove-box. All original manuals and paperwork included, and even some detailed service receipts while it was still in Japan. Very comfortable and easy to drive, reassuringly solid in wet weather, and just cool in general. Has not been thrashed and has always been fed with V-Power petrol. Overall condition of the car is seriously very very good, especially considering its age. Original Japanese de-registration papers, and copies from an online registration check, are also included. Kilometres have been proven. Registration expiring April 2018. Biggest problem would be the condition of the drivers seat. There are no tears or rips of any kind, but the colour (and a bit of the leather feel) has faded from the left hand side of the seat. I also have the paddle-shifters from a V35 GT-8, and some braces that have not been installed yet. Willing to throw them into the deal as well. Asking price: $13,500 (ONO) KM's: 64,000 VIN: U90000NM35302391 Model Code: VLGPRXNM35UDA-AA-C http://gtr-registry.com/en-nm35-vin-table.php Contact Name: George Contact Number: 0412 443 996 Email: [email protected] Price is negotiable, and I need this gone, so please make me a reasonable offer! Car is also on Carsales and Gumtree.
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Say someone was to install test pipes (yes I know they are a no-no on the roads), would they throw the ECL? A couple people on 350z forums say they get the ECL and some don't. Will the O2 sensors go out of whack and make the car run lean without a re-tune?
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M35 only cruise/meet! Propose date: 18th Nov or 26th NovWhat do you guy think?Meet up at Mornington PierDrive to Flinder Pier carpart, talk, photo ...etc Lunch/Rest/Drink at Flinder pub Route in short: Drive along the coast from Mornington to Arthur Seat, then from Arthur Seat back way to Flinder pier carpart. Register your interest, someone can take over the organizing if they wish. Would be nice to get as many M/NM35 together as possible. Cruise Route MAP
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2001 M35 stagea for sale 240,000kms Cusco coilovers 20" koyo rims Cat back Rolled rear fenders Ive owned this for 7 years during this time has been bulletproof ( except starter motor and battery but both have been replaced ) around 7 months rego left Has some chips in paint, cracked windscreen, crack in tail light, leaking some oil, $5,000 ono 0403506415 (dont have my phone at work so just sms me) Se melbourne
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If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
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For sale 2005 Nissan Stagea 350rx. Vq35 auto 6 speed. 1of three built in this spec. (From gtr registry) Imported from Japan 1.5 years ago by me via Iron chef imports. 68xxxKm. Serviced every 5000km with genuine Nissan filters and Penrite oil. 2 keys. Japanese service books. Work Kiwami wheels in 18x9.5” wrapped in Faulken tyres and 1 brand new rim as a spare. Approximately 5 months rego. Android based stereo. Great condition. Only selling because now I have a work vehicle. Will consider swapping for a clean s13, s14, s15 with possible cash my way.
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As the title suggests, does anyone know what components are available to increase the amount of negative camber in the rear of an NM35 Stagea? I'm slowly attempting to create a 'VIP'/'bippu' style build but I can't find a whole lot of parts to suit the NM35. Currently I have fitted Driftworks Front Upper Camber Arms to suit a 350z and have gotten to -6 deg happily but the rear is sitting at -5 deg with only a coilover installation. I do have 350z Rear Camber Arms but they seem to only be able to mount to adjust toe. At this stage its looking like most components will have to be fabricated.
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Just got some Recaro seat rails on the cheap for my car (stagea). My question is: do all recaros seats use the same size rail? (and other brands respectively as well) ie. if I have recaro rails can I safely go out and whack any recaro seat on it? I'm looking at nabbing seats from an Evo X, unless anyone else has any good leads!
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Hi all, been trawling through pages and pages and I can't find answers to all of my questions so I'm hoping to get some help in this thread. Background, I have a 2002 M35 Autech Axis that is due for a brake change (front pads and rotors are gone). I've managed to find a set of 350Z Brembos (cause why replace when you can upgrade) for a decent price and am just trying to get some more information before making the jump. From my digging, this is what I've found: Should be a direct bolt on however R34 GTT threads mention modification to the dust fan / bolt but unsure if the Brembos will face the same problems Information points to that the 18" Autech wheels might not fit but can't find confirmation Have seen no mention to the upgrade affecting ABS #justdoit What I wanted to know are the following: How bolt on is bolt on? Will the same changes need to done as per the R34 GTTs? Is there a guide somewhere specific to the Brembos? The kit comes with calipers, rotors and lines. Will that be all I need besides the pads? Anyone to confirm the 18" Autech wheels will/won't fit the Brembos Thanks! - Yang
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I have a 2002 M35 Axis by Autech 2.5l turbo AWD Stagea and have to replace the shocks and tie rods. Does anyone know part numbers for Axis variant or failing that, am i able to fit the BC BR coilovers and ordinary AWD M35 parts as replacement on the Axis, not sure what the differences with suspension between Axis and normal are. Thanks Andrew
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M35 Drivers Side Window Motor - Replacement
swanny180 posted a topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Hi guys, Looks like my window motor is cooked on the drivers side of my M35 Stagea. After a couple of things: 1 - Does anyone have the part number? 2 - Does anyone have a new or second hand one they are looking to sell? Cheers -
i recently brought a 300rx, its great but the stereo and speakers are aweful, i have seen people say you need to buy the aftermarket fascia kit for them but is there a cheaper way of putting an after market stereo in them? also, does anyone know if an underseat subwoofer would fit under the front seats of a stagea?
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If your M35 is overheating, check that the fan clutch is still supplying enough drive to move a decent amount of air. Fortunately, the fan clutch on the M35 is bolted together, which means it can be refilled. It will spin quite fast even it if it is completely stuffed. Search youtube for videos on how to check it (eg 1. Drive the car until everything is fully up to temperature. This will take a lot longer than to bring the temperature gauge up to its normal position. 2. Use an old magazine (or whatever) to slowly press against the spinning fan blades to slow them down. The fan will have a fair bit of momentum, even if the clutch is stuffed. I could hold the fan still with barely any pressure using my pinkie finger after it had slowed down. Again - watch some videos first. If you confirm that the clutch is stuffed, you will need fluid to re-fill it. Many use Toyota fluid, example part numbers are 08816-03001 or 08816-06001 or 08816-10001, which are 3000, 6000 and 10000 CST respectively. Higher CST is thicker/more viscous. The Toyota fluid is about $17 for 12ml on ebay. The fluid is reported to be silicon oil, which cost me $20 for 50ml from a hobby store. You need about 80ml. I originally used 10000 cst from both Toyota and hobby store and they appeared the same. I don't know what viscosity is correct, but the car sounds like an old skool v8 with fan noise now, so its either correct or too viscous (or i added too much fluid). EDIT: 10000 is definitely too thick - I have swapped it for 6000 which is better, but i'm still getting some belt squeal at high RPM, so either i have a belt/tension issue or its still too thick. Suggest 3000 as a starting point for anyone trying this. Steps are; 1. Remove the air box snorkel, and air box. 2. Undo the 4 x 10mm headed nuts from the fan mount, and the 2 bolts holding the top of the fan shroud on, and lift them out together. This will require a bit of wriggling 3. Spray the bolts, screws and pin in the middle of the bi-metallic strip of the fan assembly with WD40, and leave to soak. 4. Take the fan off the fan clutch (10mm headed bolts) 5. Undo the phillips head screws holding the two halves of the clutch together, and pry them apart. 6. Leave the two halves upside down to drain the old fluid overnight, or clean them out with solvent. When i drained out the new 10000cst it didn't come out clean, so i'd recommend cleaning it out now, even though i didnt. AFAIK, WD40, Kerosine, Degreaser etc leave a greasy residue and will contaminate the new fluid, so brake cleaner is probably a better option. 7. Use needle nose pliers to verify that the pin at the center of the bi-metallic strip on the outside of clutch can turn a little / is not seized. 8. Fill the reservoir up with new fluid. I filled to the top of the first step, so about the level of the black rectangle in the centre. 9. Bolt the two halves together and re-attach the fan 10. Re-install the fan and shroud, being careful to get the tabs at the bottom of the shroud keyed in before you bolt the top on. 11. Beers