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Showing results for tags 'maf'.
Found 14 results
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Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?
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Hi gents, sincerely asking you guys the theoretical or actual power figures expected from the setup below: HKS Y pipes & 80mm cat back, Sard (denso) 720cc injectors, DW300 pump, R35 MAFs, Twin HKS 2530's (stock headers), Trust intercooler, stock BOV, stock intake plenum & TB's, N1 oil pump, MLS head gasket, forged pistons, poncam B's, Power FC, pump RON97, nismo coppermix twin plate, 18's on 265 rubber. So I've pretty much listed all that matters with regards to making and putting the power down. Asking as I may or may not be getting the full potential of my setup (bottom end was running 600rwhp on a different car). I have done numerous Dyno sessions with slightly different setups but more or less the same outcome which leads me to conclude (reluctantly) the setup is maxed out. Will share graphs but would like you to share your input first for better effect. Thanks in advance, guys!
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hello SAU. i've just brought my first car, a skyline of course. I've had it for a year now with litte problems. although its only a stepping stone for my skyline I take alot of care maintaing it as best i can with my engineering and servicing experience. its a r33 1997 gts25 import with 180000ks recently after returning from overseas my car has had a painfully rough idle and warm start up issue only below 2000 rpm. the engine feels as if its missing or almost stalling randomly at any stops especially. i was attempting to replace the gaskets and polish the head lights and foggies before i started it the first time. so i cant tell if its something ive done or its happened while i was away. when it was being started and driven once every 2 weeks. i took out the coils and plugs, cleaned and inspected them while sealing all the valve cover everything seemed fine. i've tried everything ive reasearched so far and nothing seems to work it has no fault codes. i cleaned the AAC and the MAF but found no change. the plugs and coils seem fine only one with a small crack in the ceramic and another coil with some oil on the outside of the boot but no noticeable firing issues. i do have a power steering leak and it moans when its cold. hence the AAC check. Please help cheers!
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Hey all! going from pink label to r35 maf when my stagea goes for a tune. Running nistune. just wondering if i should go through the extra effort of wiring the maf into cooler piping or put it in the 4 inch intake? Car will have no BOV and max flutter so not sure if thatll affect it. expanding on that! If in either location where in the piping should the sensor go?
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Engine is running poorly, and OBD said that the signal from the MAF was 0.0. I replaced the MAF insert (22680-6N21A), and its still 0.0. Inlet temp sensor works with old and new insert. So either the problem is; 1. ODB misreporting MAF signal, and there's some other issue that doesn't trigger a CEL 2. new MAF is dead 3. wiring issue I'm starting with looking at #3.There's 5 pins on the connector to the MAF. I've measured resistance to ground with ignition off, and then voltage with ignition on. Pin - resistance - volts w/ Ign on 1 - infinite - 5 2 - 111 - 12 3 - 0 - 0 4 - infinite - 5 5 - infinite - 0 Does anyone know the MAF pinout? Where is the ECU? I've got an ECU pinout from here, so i could check the MAF to ECU wiring.
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Okay guys this is what is left from my semi-part out. Make me an offer, all prices are shipped within Canada. Please add 4% if using paypal. Aftermarket Parts Apexi Power FC (MAF Version) with two handheld controllers, ones is brand new ordered direct from Apexi, the other came with the power FC, and has been repaired, but is kinda glitch. Good to have for parts. $795 Greddy Catch Can, unbaffled sealed unit, 2 port. I bought this off a friend locally and never used it. Great looking catch can though, and awesme quality. $100 Bee R Rev Limiter Type B Universal. I bought this and also didn’t use it, because the next day I changed my mind and bought a Haltech. This is still sitting brand new in the box in my garage. A local guy is pending sale here, but cant afford it for another month or so, and money talks. $220 [NO PIC YET} Unknown brand suction kit without filters. There are no markings them, but they take a 4.5” cone filter I believe. The ones on it were wrecked and thrown out. $40 OEM R32 GTR Parts ECU $60 Intake Manifold /w Throttle Bodies $250 Fuel Rail /w FPR $90 MAF x2 $60 -
Hey guys first time posting here, I've been having this problem for a couple months now, just want some advice or someone may have had the same trouble. Also been to a few mechanics and shops but still unsure on what the problem is. Basically the engine randomly misfires while I'm driving at pretty much any rev and any gear, the engine light will come on, and basically keeps stuttering for as long as I stay around the same revs, unless I take the foot off the accelerator then it'll come good again. This can happen as soon as i take it out of the garage or after coming home from a long drive. The codes were telling me MAF and airflow originally so i replaced that, the other possibility was the coil packs might be on their way out so i tested them with a multi-meter and nothing seemed too out of the ordinary. Also changed the spark plugs just to rule out that problem but its still happening. Any thoughts or leads? Cheers. -
WTB GENUINE z32 MAF Want to buy one if anyone has got one, thanks.
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Blow through MAF My R32 GTR smells aweful everytime I change gears (exhaust smell in the cabin). So I Phone up a reputable skyline tuner and he said it's because of my aftermarket bov. (I read a lot on r32 before so he confirmed what I thought) He recommends going blow through MAF and then tuning or finding oem piping and oem bov. I want to get a tune anyways, so should I try to find the oem stuff somewhere or go with the blowthrough set up? [My car is pretty darn stockish apart from HKS green pod thing intakes, what looks like a 3'' full exhaust and a 20 something year old tune from japan with the stock ECU] check out my newbie intro tread if you wanna see what it looks like Cheers!
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Hi all, Having alot of trouble getting our RB25det r32 running properly. The car originally had a big laggy chinese turbo on it, so we pulled engine and tidied everything up and reverted to the factory rb25 turbo unit. After reinstalling the engine we have the following issue: - With afm plugged in, we can get the car started and then will die 10 seconds later. Can't rev it without is bogging down and dying. - With afm unplugged, the car starts and idles fine. As soon as we try to rev it, it also bogs down and dies. As soon as the afm is plugged in again it bogs down and dies. - Car isn't blowing any smoke - Have kept an eye on the FPR gauge and it is jumping between 40-60psi Have gone through many threads and can't seem to find anyone with similar problems. We have tested another AFM, checked for vacuum leaks and intercooler piping leaks. Am thinking it could be the following things: - Faulty fuel pump - We bought a second faulty AFM - Something to do with TPS and throttle body because as soon as that is altered car dies? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Cheers,
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R35 MAF Adapter for R32 Hi folks, I am looking for a R35 MAF adapter that will bolt onto factory R32 GTR airbox and piping. As far as I know HPI makes a set: http://www.hpi.co.jp/zoom.html?cate=engine&file=airflow_adapter As I was shopping around for the HPI set, I came across an Apexi adapter that is considerably cheaper: http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p544348772 The listing says this adapter works with Power FC for RB26, but there is no information about physical fitment. Would you folks know if this Apexi adapter can fit in R32's factory location? Thanks in advance!
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MAF R35 card type Anyone using this kit or similar? http://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-mass-air-flow-meter-upgrade-kit/
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Hi All, Hey I have this issue with my 2010 V36. Best described by something I stole off the net below. From my extensive Google research I reckon I need the attached ECM update. It's pretty bad. Every time I'm driving on a highway at over 100km/h and I decelerate and the car engine brakes, it shuts down and goes into a limp mode where it won't go above 30km/h and starts jolting violently if I accelerate. If I have no road shoulder to use I am screwed. If I pull over and turn off the car off for 30 secs its back to normal, until it happens again. Happened 5-times one way from Sydney to snow last year. If I drive where my foot is always slightly accelerating or braking it doesn't happen. But I as soon as I coast and let the car decelerate above 100km/h it will happen. Is anyone experiencing the same issue? Does anyone know a fix? I plan to clean the MAF's with CRC cleaner. Have done the pedal ECM reset sequence. Does anyone know anyone who can do this update who isn't Nissan or Infiniti as, they aren't overly helpful Has anyone had the ITB09-028 ECM update from Nissan? I have aftermarket cold air intakes and an Uprev flash tune I reckon the ECM needs the ITB09-028 update I have attached. Any thoughts on this? Here is how I would describe the issue based on some G37, owners issue: POWER TRAIN Apparently on 2009 infiniti g37s, there is a programming error/deficiency in the electronic engine control module (ecm) affecting the processing of the mass flow rate sensor that will cause the engine to unexpectedly (and without a dash warning indicator) to lose power. at occurrence of the failure, the car will decelerate from highway speed to less than 35 mph within a few seconds. following the failure, the engine rpm will not exceed 2,400 rpm and speeds above 35 mph are impossible (i found that 4th gear is the highest gear selectable). this failure can be dangerous in a number of traffic situations. i have learned from an infiniti service dept. that the failure will temporarily correct itself if the engine is turned off for a period of time, but that the failure could reoccur. the car's ecm was re-programmed by towbin infiniti (las vegas, nv) on august 30 and that supposedly fixes the failure. while at towbin, the service man said that infiniti knows of the problem, but is waiting to see how wide-spread the problem is. owners have not been told of this problem. towbin service said they have seen about 300 cases of the problem. a salt lake city dealer service dept. had also heard of this problem. again, i feel this problem can be dangerous, because: if it were to occur in heavy traffic, it may be difficult to get out of the way of others; if it were to occur when turning in front of oncoming traffic; after it occurs, there is no way to keep up with higher speed traffic - one is left going slow and hoping no one rear ends me; without more information, i have no way of knowing if the problem has really been fixed. ITB09-028.pdf
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Hi ther all friends and foes, i have recently had huge problems with my RB25det S2 (auto) , wher the car is running fine when cold, when it starts getting up to temp its starts to mess up, somtimes at 3000 somtimes at 4000, and when its warm up its ok agen. At one od the videos below, i have full throtle, car struggels and dosent do anything, then hits 4000rpm and it launches. Btw. Dont mind the temp gauge, belive the sensor for the gauge is messed up so it lives it own life Ther is no air leaks, no vacume leaks, coils are new, plugs are new, tried replacing maf 2 times. When MAF is disconekted the engien wil stop. Alsow from what i can finde online, the tps is supose to have 5v (i have around 4.5) when fully open, and betwen 0.3-0.5 when closed (alot of wierd answers on the internett) Stuff that have recently been done: - Adjusted timing to 15° (pulled TPS and Brown idle controll valve stick) - New coils - New plugs "Mods" -3" exhaust from turbo and back - pod filter 20190319_211111.mp4 20190319_211250.mp4
