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For sale: Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Sedan 318 rwkw, silver, in Victoria Key points: Last of the original R chassis with the venerable RB25DET, in the final & best Neo guise Lots of work done: tyres, suspension, steering, drivetrain, mechanical diff, cooling, turbo, servicing, preventative maintenance etc. etc. Beautiful RB bark at 20 psi and the sweet smell of ethanol A registered car with 4 doors, child seat mounting points, big boot, sleeper look for no unnecessary attention No accident history, always garaged under my ownership, regularly serviced Recent updates: New price New photos New steering rack No RWC selling as is Inspections welcome Price $14,800 Please PM here or call/email via the full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics Note: This is a replacement thread for the previous one: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471783-fs-well-balanced-r34-gtt-sedan-for-street-and-track-vic/?do=findComment&comment=7885711 -
2010 BMW 135i MY09 Space Grey with Coral Red interior Manual 84,xxx km CIC iDrive Electric Sunroof Final series build date for N54 engine (05/10) Parking Sensors Full-service history with Active Motorwerke, every 10,000km - logbooks stamped Owned for over 5 years Aesthetics BMW OEM Carbon Fiber Rear Diffuser BMW OEM Carbon Fiber Boot Spoiler BMW OEM Rear Blackline LCI Tailight Gloss Black Kidney Grille BMS Angel Eyes Eyelids (Colour Matched) Flow Designs Front Splitter Flow Designs Side Splitter GTC CX Rims - Matte Black 18x9.5 and 18x8.5 (Bridgestone RE003 tyres) Final Inspection Full metal jacket treatment Performance BMS Dual Cone Intake (DCI) VRSF Chargepipe Turbosmart Raceport Blow Off Valve VRSF 7” Intercooler AR Design Catless Downpipes Meisterschaft GT Axle Back exhaust BMS Clutch Stop RB PCV Valve CDV Delete MHD Stage 2+ Tune Misc P3Cars Multifunction Vent gauge Tune2Air Adapter (allows for bluetooth audio streaming) Custom Floor Mats with M Stitching (Made in Germany) OEM BMW ZHP Gear Knob Maintenance Injectors replaced with latest version 12 at 55,000km Water Pump replaced at 65,000km High-Pressure Fuel Pump replaced at 30,000km Timing Chain and Tensioner replaced Oil Filter Housing Gasket and Oil Cooler Gasket replaced Walnut blasting was done at 75,000km Boost solenoids and vacuum lines replaced Spark Plugs and Coil Packs replaced Regular oil/filter changes every 10,000km Full log book history - all work done by Active Motorwerke Reason for Sale Looking for a new build after 5 years with this car. All the preventative maintenance has been done so the car is very reliable! Hoping to move into a GTR ideally Contact: Jeff Mobile: 0492 947 187 Location: Malvern VIC More pictures to come...
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Nismo GT Shift Knob (Urethane) 6 speed - discontinued model. Used but in great condition in box - $210 BNR34 Vspec II Shift knob good condition, slight wear on paint - $200 BNR34 factory carpet mat full set great condition - $550 Nismo fuel cap - discontinued model - $300 Nismo 10pt key - new, uncut, genuine in box - $600 R34 owners manual (GT, GTT) - $100 Postage available at buyers expense. Pics posted later today. -
Hi all, Bought a shift knob yesterday and was just wondering the best way to install it. I know of the double vice grip method but has anyone actually broken anything from just twisting it off without using them? Purely asking as I dont have vice grips on hand at the moment, and people seemed to have gotten away with just twisting it. Thanks
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Hi SAU, As title says, looking for a p-platers skyline for my brother. Will be used as a daily, so a reliable example would be most desirable. - must be manual, coupe, and n/a (GTS or 25GT) - maximum budget of $7500 - must be healthy mechanically for age (no leaks in engine, no gear crunching, etc) - not to fussed on interior/exterior condition (a bit of color fade not an issue) - r32 and r34 would be top preference, but r33 which meets requirement will also be considered (already have an r33) - any color - registrable in VIC - prefer it come with RWC, or at least in a condition where RWC would be easily obtainable - VIC located cars only please Contact me through this forum or PM me. Thanks, Josh
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$19,000 ONO Selling my R34 GTT Series II Manual Coupe as I just don't drive it much anymore. NSW rego until late August 2019. Located in Dubbo 2830. Have owned the car for about 4.5 years, and it was imported by the previous owner in 2011. It currently has 142,000km. Timing belt was done at 80,000km when the car was imported. Car was completely stock until August 2017 when the turbo needed to be rebuilt. The stock turbo was rebuilt and high-flowed by HyperGear in Melbourne and it is their G2 build with a ball bearing core. I then added a HPI Turbine Outlet and dual outlet front pipe, and had a local exhaust workshop make up a 3in stainless system with a new high-flow cat converter. I have put in a stealth FMIC using a Frozen Boost intercooler and home fabricated piping kit, similar to this guide, with pipes beaded professionally: I have a spare GTT ECU, ready for Nistune to be installed. All the stock parts (exhaust, intercooler) are available if desired. Body is in good shape, with few minor dents and only thing that will need attention is the bootlid as the centre brake light area is starting to rust. Interior is very good except for the driver's seat which needs recovering on the corner as pictured. I'm not very interested in swaps, but could consider it for something from the 70s of similar value like a panelvan. -
Hi guys/gals! I'm trying to figure out a strange sound coming from my Skyline. Every so often, say, once every 3 or 4 times I reverse out of my garage, I hear an awful sound coming from under the car. I equate it to a slipping belt, but a lower tone. It sticks around for maybe 10 seconds, and goes away. No issues driving as of yet, no clicking/grinding. It's just a loud howl and I want to address it before it gets worse. Has anyone had this issue by chance? I was asking some friends local to me and they figure throw out bearing is failing. Ideas? Car is a '93 GTSt coupe with 165k K's on it.
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R34GTT up for sale. Have been driving this one as my daily for the last 4 years without a single hiccup, and only selling as its time to get a new toy. Has some typical stone chips in front bumper i never got around to fixing, but overall pretty nice considering the age of the vehicle. Always ran on 98 fuel, and never boosted over 12psi. Last tune it came in at 270hp at 10psi. List of mods etc below. Alpine bluetooth deck / 6' speakers SPITFIRE coil packs, HKS Front mount intercooler, HKS 15psi wastegate actuator, HKS ssqv blow off valve, GREDDY/TRUST Arnix pod filter with custom stainless intake pipe, Custom exhaust system (3"down pipe, high flow cat, 3.5" cat back), EXEDY heavy duty ceramic button clutch with machined flywheel, PORCHE BREMBO front 4 pot brake calipers and rotors, Cwest earth grounding kit, Only filled with 98 octane New battery BLITZ SBC i-D electronic boost controler, BLITZ power meter i-D, Auto watch alarm system with interior and exterior sensors, Project Mu pedals, Genuine Nissan skyline floor mats. Full Bomex bodykit fitted NISMO carbon fibre pillars, Ganador side mirrors, Cwest wing (easily removable), Factory sunroof - working perfectly, Factory xenon hid headlights Black racing pro N1 Japanese wheels (front 17x8 31 & rear 17x9 38), Nismo Circuit Link Pro Ultimate Set (suspension control arms, caster rods etc), HKS hypermax drag coilovers, Factory strut brace and cusco rear strut brace. It comes with papers for full history since import including every receipt and documents since landing in Australia! It is clean inside and out and drives beautifully. reasonable offers will be considered but low ball offers will be ignored. All test drives will be performed by me until genuine offer is given (I am sure you can understand why with a performance vehicle) Selling for $17500 neg. Contact: Aaron. 0402155000 [email protected]
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1999 Nissan Stagea RS4 Dayz Manual Hey there ladies and gents, as per title selling a Series 2 RS4 manual swapped dayz edition. This is as good as they get before S2 factory manuals/260RS being a S2, GTR box, dayz kit and the RB25 NEO. It is still AWD. Bought with the intention of dailying it, but circumstances have changed so time to move it on. Have spent lots of time and money on bringing this up to standard, bought it as a half completed manual conversion with a bunch of things needed. Heres the spill; ENGINE Stock RB25DET NEO w/ 160,000km Splitfire Coilpacks OEM Airbox (comes with a hectic pod filter if suits buyers taste) Major service completed including timing belt, cam and crank seals, coolant flush, oil (castrol 10w-40), oil filter and sparkplugs OEM exhaust DRIVETRAIN, BRAKES AND SUSPENSION R32 GTR 5 speed gearbox R32 GTR transfer case Brand new single plate Exedy clutch (push type) Gearbox oil drained and filled with Redline shockproof gear oil Transfer case oil drained and filled with Nissan D-Matic (ATF) Front and rear diffs drained and filled with Penrite 75w-90 gear oil ATTESSA flushed, filled with Nissan D-matic and bled R32 GTR Sumitomo front calipers & rotors Adjustable height and rebound coilovers (unsure of brand) Hardrace adjustable front upper control arms Hardrace adjustable rear upper control arms EXTERIOR & INTERIOR Factory Dayz kit including front bar, side skirts, rear bar and spoiler. Non-sunroof Wont come on the 8 MR BBS wheels, Will come on R33 GTST wheels with RWC tread. Factory manual centre console R34 GTT Steering wheel with a Silvia airbag OEM electric leather seats OEM cargo net and privacy cover New FitMyCar full set of floor mats Fresh paint correction buff and polish, then sealed with autoglym wax Aftermarket alarm, immobilizer and central locking Thats pretty much it, only things to note is it does have the common stagea rust under the mirrors, the boot has a decent dent in it, and the drivers seat has a tear in it. There are inperfections here and there, and i have tried to take pictures of absolutely every one i can see. These are available to serious buyers, so there is no hidden surprises before inspecting. I have tried to reflect all this in the asking price. Asides from that its a clean and honest car. Happy for comp testing to be done for serious buyers only. Sold with no RWC or Rego. *WONT COME WITH BBS’s, WILL COME WITH R33 GTST WHEELS* $10,000 Located Eltham North Any questions please feel free to pm me. -
1998 r34 nissan skyline gtt One of the cleanest examples in aus just giving a quick run through the car is mainly stock besides genuine blitz return flow intercooler, Apexi pod filter and japsmart exhaust (have stock exhaust and airbox) these are rising in price especially in this condition not 1 drop of oil anywhere on the car can provide photos of underneath, Looking for $28,000 with rwc and rego negotiable to genuine buyer apon inspection NOT NEGOTIABLE OVER MESSAGE Genuine 86,600kms car reflects low kms Factory sunroof Factory manual Black paint job with purple pearl Factory optioned nismo suspension Will come on z32 wheels car is located in cranbourne, Melbourne send me a message if your interested 0477566212 Car is only advertised here not on gumtree or carsales yet
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Neat and tidy Sonic Silver, 1996, Series 2, Manual, 4 Door Skyline with a genuine 273 RWKW. (Northern NSW) (Some may recognise this vehicle from these forums) This car is an excellent example and it has been a joy to own. Very reliable Canberra Car imported locally in 2002. 210,000Kms. Just moved to the Northern Rivers Area (Lismore, Lennox Heads-Alstonville) which is where it is now. Great condition for it's age, and always serviced every 5000kms with quality products. Perfect for those who want an import while keeping the missus happy with doors for kids and groceries. Mature owner. Modifications are: -Genuine Garrett 3071 Turbo with braided lines and aluminum intake pipe. -Vi-Pec Engine Management System, tuned by ESP in Queanbeyan -Front-mount Intercooler -Upgraded 040 fuel pump -Upgraded 700cc (approx) injectors -Split-fire coil packs -Heavy duty clutch -Full X-Force exhaust system -Biggest pod filter you have ever seen -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff -Whiteline swaybars front and rear with new knuckles -DBA slotted brake rotors, braided lines and Project-Mu Pads Body has a few scratches consistent with it's age, but I recently had the front and rear bar resprayed. Interior: - Great JVC stereo with new speakers all round and a pro-installed amplifier. Includes bluetooth. - Turbo Timer - New gearshift and handbrake leather boots Servicing: - Timing belt, water pump, idler pulley replaced at 198,000 - Serviced every 5000K's with Castrol Edge 10-60 - Recently serviced gearbox with new fluid -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff - Regularly detailed with Dodo wax products Miscellaneous: - New battery - Really beautiful dark tint - Ice cold air-conditioning Spare set of wheels available aswell. -
Hi I’m after a r31 manual conversion kit in Adelaide can anyone help? Cheers ph 0407908059
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Need some help with my speed sensor on the RB20DET. I've pretty much figured out where it's located, on top of the transmission, hard to reach without dropping the exhaust. The question is WHERE does it plug into on the harness? I know that the revolution sensor aka speed sensor on the RB20DET in the R32's is supposed to be mechanically driven, though...I've got a shielded cable with a white and red wire coming off of them. Whoever did the motor swap did some wacky wiring and I have no idea where anything goes now. I'm assuming that my speed sensor is electronic then? It's the RE4R01A trans (A/T) so I need anyone with an A/T to give me a hand right now with this. I spent the past several weeks tracking down diagrams for the TCM which are non-existent, diagrams to the transmission plugs (again non-existent) and searched this site up and down and kept getting zero results. The last question would be, IF I maintain the electronic speed sensor on the transmission, how would I wire it up? What plug did anyone use on their RB25 (those are electronic I believe). Obviously any and all help is greatly appreciated. -
Hey guys just had a quick question. Recently bought a 2005 manual 350gt. Have noticed a couple things. One was that the seatbelt light stays on in the dash. The other was this morning when I put the car into nuteral it was making some strange noises. Didn't sound good at all. And seemed harder to change gears than yesterday. But then after it warmed up the noise was no longer there and gears got easier. Is this a common problem when the car is cold? Or do you think something may be wrong? Thanks
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I'm looking for a possibility to get hold of a copy of the R33 Chassis Manual from jpnz.co.nz, as stated. I would be more then willing to for a digital copy. Hit me up if you could help me.
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If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
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Hello guys, I picked up a nice little 2003 350GT-8 with a buggered CVT gearbox, I fitted a secondhand CVT gearbox but was unable to rectify the faults. After about 1 year of spending time trying to find the faults, I decided I would make the leap and convert the sedan to a 6MT from a 350Z. Please try and refrain from writing things like "WHY DIDNT YOU JUST BUY A MANUAL TO START WITH" etc etc. I don't care. The car cost me $1500 licensed and all, and 2k for the conversion. Still cheaper than buying a 350 6MT. This post will contain as many photos as possible as I progress through the build. This will be continually updated as I complete the stages. I have never been able to find out about mounting the handbrake lever, or the legalities on cutting the transmission tunnel out to fit the gearbox. I hope to provide some light on these matters for the next person to take on the conversion project. Removed CVT and threw it in the skip bin. Best feeling of my life. GOOD RIDDANCE. Removed the following; Carpet (needed a clean anyway) Front and rear seats Center console HVAC and anything in my way Witing harness Airbag module, Gyro & Traction control module. (NOTE ANYTHING WITH YELLOW PLUGS IS SRS AIRBAGS, MAKE SURE BATTERY UNPLUGGED ALSO DO NOT FLIP OVER THE SRS MODULE FROM UNDER THE CONSOLE, IF YOUR BATTERY IS CONNECTED OR IT HAS CHARGE IT WILL SET OFF YOUR AIRBAGS. IVE SEEN IT DONE. VERY DANGEROUS.) Brackets and really anything you see is going to slow you down. Mock fitted the console and handbrake assembly to see the alignment. Measured gearbox to the tunnel. Pictures of the handbrake assembly and how it DOES NOT match anything on the original tunnel, I guess you could make up a few brackets and cut some holes but that is dodgy and I want this thing to be as good as factory when I am done. I have a manual tunnel from a 350Z, I have decided to remove the inner skin that has the moulding for the manual trans and the handbrake that I require. Once done will be as simple as bolting it all onto the new inner skin as per factory. I was able to drill out the spot welds with a Spot weld cutter available for $20 its like a little hole saw. I have a qualified boilermaker / engineer on hand to weld the skin into the cars existing tunnel. There are A LOT of little spot welds not marked with arrows, the arrows are just pointing out a few of the ones I started to cut out. More photos and info to come! Thanks -
Hey fellas, so recently purchased a 92 gtst rolling shell and it seem as tho it has an auto dash, it has had an SR and an RB25 in it before has modplates and was last registered with a sr20 in it, so my problem is will i run into any problems when i go too put a RB25 in it? is there anything that can be dodgy about auto conversions that i should check on or is there anyway i can tell if has been? can post pics if need be,Cheers. -
Just need someone or few people to give me a hand to convert my r34 sedan auto to manual All parts supplied Can $$ for work -
Hey guys I would like to get a manual conversion for a r31 or even a cheap manual car. Located in melbs Cheers from joel
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so i need to remove the radiator from my 250t rs four which has been converted into a 6 speed manual out of a 350z. it is still using the stock radiator so it has lines going into the radiator for cooling the transmission from when it was an auto. So, are the transmission lines connected at the bottom to the two brass fittings? (photo attached for reference) these have nothing attached to them so i am not sure what they are for, other than that. i think i may be mistaking the transmission fluid lines for something else as the lines I want to remove are on the passengers side of the radiator and coming off the side of it. this photo shows the lines i need to remove. Any help would be appreciated. cheers
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Hey guys, Thought I'd drop an update on the 6MT swap on my 2002 350gt-8.. On Saturday I dropped the diff, driveshaft & CVT with the help of a friend & only nearly killed him once with the cvt falling off the jack hahaha. Got it done in about 2.5-3hrs with a few hours prep I did the weekend before. Prep like drop exhaust, remove most of the bellhousing bolts, CVT clutch lines, loosen what driveshaft bolts I could etc. The most difficult parts were the little things really, remove this to get to that etc. Going through the CVT inspection plate to remove the X (I forgot what its called- between flywheel/torque convertor) otherwise the torque converter will still be attached and fighting the removal of the gearbox. Removed started motor, cable tied it aside to spin and wedge the X to get to the bolts through the inspection plate. Also removed the CVT dipstick & a loom bracket to get bellhousing bolts off from the top inside engine bay. Didn't have to touch the interior just left it in neutral to rotate driveshaft, disconnected gear linkage, was a peice of cake actually. I have a question though.. I sourced a CD001 6MT through this forum like at least 3 years ago for 1k before I knew of the difference. Is it possible to rebuild a CD001 so it has synchros like a CD009 or at least strengthen it?? also I've watched a bunch of youtube vids and I'm getting the impression that it's better to weld an open diff over a VLSD. Can anyone explain why this is please? Also have a 2003 350z VLSD I'm installing along with Whitline bushings essentials kit. Will measure up the driveshaft when 6MT & diff are installed. Next up is to prep the Z1 clutch for install, remove auto flywheel, rear main seal if required etc, solid bushings, interior prep, prep 6MT crossmember, install 6MT, short shifter etc, handbrake relocation(the cable is already right where it needs to be running through the tranny tunnel), clutch/brake pedal install then once that's all done scratching my head for a day maybe dealing with electronics hehe.. Just goto bridge the neutral safety switch and figure out reverse lights I think.. I'm going by this thread below mainly. But didnt even look at it when getting into the job, basically just unbolt remove whats in the way and drop whats needed. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html Yes I'm more than likely forgetting a lot, but it's pretty straight forward. Having my mechanic friend there for really helped figuring out the inspection plate X removal & with tips for getting more leverage/using the car to our advantage. Like loosening the axel shaft bolts with the 2nd spanner pinned up against the sway bar, removing the the driveshaft still attached to the diff as we didnt have the 8mm allen key tool required for the diff side driveshaft. ALL THIS WAS DONE ON WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS WITH BASIC TOOLS BTW...I'm waiting on an order from the USA- 'Never Ending Details'. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY. They f**king suck. Barely any communication, Took ages to ship (nearly 2 months) and that's with me threatening them with a VISA dispute. Anyways just thought I'd add my experience with them. Pretty much follows the multiple bad reviews I've read online, same shit. The order was for flywheel/pressure plate bolts/various peices as it was a lot cheaper than going through Nissan (eg $17.50 VS ~$2 for 1x OEM flywheel bolt) I'm stoked the hard part is pretty much over. More room for activities now hehehe. BTW, the goal for this car is to make it into a nice street/semi drift capable car, with strut bracing/chassis reinforcement, coilovers, camber/angle mods & maybe a plenum spacer/intake being on the cards. Already has a mean sounding full borla exhaust & headers from the previous owner + ditch the wack bob jane special rims for some lightweight Rays TE37's. This car has been sitting for 3-4 years so I'm feeling really accomplished and excited to get her on the road again I will try to keep you guys updated. Cheers, Seb -
Nissan Skyline R34 GTT 2.5l Turbo Manual Coupe (Winton tow photo was from the end of the life of the previous motor <3 ) Year 2000 165xxx kmsEngine 80xxx kmsEngine -Stock rb25det neoNew oem coilpacksNew spark plugs (bkr6es)Stock turbo boostedTurbosmart boost teeZ32 Airflow Meter (genuine) - recently replacedNistune ECU tuned by RM performance in ringwood. 170rwkw at stock boostWalbro 460 fuel pumpFull turboback exhaust from Japan. Very quiet around town until you get to high revsAll new filtersBlitz front mount intercoolerNew power steering rackRecent replaced starter motorBodyQM1 WhiteFactory nismo altia front bumperFactory nismo altia rear bumperFactory nismo altia side skirtsGenuine r34 GTR spoiler (adjustable)Bluetooth head unit with aux etcExtra speaker for hands freeRare factory Nissan floor matsConcave concept cc03r wheels 18*9/ 18*10Yokohama advan A048 tyresFull slideworx adjustable arms availableSlideworx front coiloversZeal function rear coiloversRuns and drives beautifullyHas 9 months VIC rego
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Hey guys, been trawling through every forum trying to find diagrams and pictures to help with wiring an auto to manual conversion for my R34 GTT. Have done everything apart from wiring. I have read a thread but had no pictures. Think I've done all the gearbox wiring correctly, however, struggling to find the inhibitor switch. Anyone who's done this should be able to help me? Some are saying inhibitor switch is by the fuse box but still unsure? Thanks in advance.
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Looking to buy a genuine original workshop manual. I've trawled yahoo auctions and eBay and everyone else and can only find digital copies.
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