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Don't know if anyone has seen this already but here's a brand new one going for what seems a very reasonable price if somebody is doing a nice manual conversion: http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/itemdetails/35929

Hi guys Selling these parts to fund new engine conversion. Reasonable offers considered. Pictures on request. Contact Details: PM or post here Location: Templestowe, Melbourne Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Pickup or you organise postage. For sale: 2x Enkei RPF1s silver, brand new condition, 17x9 +22 Price and price conditions: $600 without tyres For sale: CA manual conversion Price and price conditions: $800, complete, just needs manual brake pedal. Will fit SR20 with SR bell housing For sale: Stripping CA18DET engine Price and price conditions: POA, let me know what you want For sale: HPI SR20 Oil cooler kit with oil filter relocation and thermostat Price and price conditions: $550, brand new For sale: R33 GTST wheels with RWC tyres Price and price conditions: $150 For sale: S13/14/15 fire extinguisher bracket, mounts underneath drivers side seat/legs Price and price conditions: $50 For sale: S15 seat belts, complete front and rear with all bolts Price and price conditions: $200 For sale: S13 drivers side seat belts Price and price conditions: $50 For sale: Sparco bucket seat + passenger side seat rail suit S13/14/15 Price and price conditions: $350 For sale: Defi 60mm white boost gauge + Defi Control Unit 2 Price and price conditions: $200 For sale: GReddy white 60mm water temp gauge, radiator hose adapter and all wiring Price and price conditions: $120 For sale: GKtech dump and front pipe, modified to sit higher for ground clearance Price and price conditions: $250 For sale: Nismo Engine mounts Price and price conditions: $120 For sale: Nismo gearbox mount Price and price conditions: $80 For sale: Decat pipe Price and price conditions: $50 For sale: S13 Cusco 5 point bolt in cage, suit non sunroof Price and price conditions:$450, comes with all plates and new high tensile bolts Cheers

while doing my manual conversion I couldn't find this information at all. hopefully this helps someone first pic is linking the wires thru the fuse box double checking that it is correct (fuse box is in pic as reference for location) second pic is pulling out the fuse box cutting and joining so it looks factory once fuse box is re installed

Parting R32 out. Got a few things to put up now. Lots more to follow when i get time. All items can be picked up in either Melbourne Sth Eastern suburbs (Glen Iris area) or Traralgon. Call or message for more info/photos etc. Mike 0412 678 973 RB20DET Manual Conversion kit with C's short shifter. Comes with everything EXCEPT flywheel - clutch is pretty much stuffed as well. Gearbox is in great condition. No notches, clunks etc. Selects all gears perfectly. Package includes: - Gearbox and crossmember. All bolts included. - Short shifter. Been told by previous owner it is genuine C's. I got no way of proving if its genuine or non genuine. Worked great though. If someone knows of a way to tell if its genuine or not let me know. Shifter has also been cut shorter and re-welded back on. - Tailshaft. Can supply either ABS or non ABS shaft depending on what is required. - Clutch and pressure plate. Both pretty much stuffed. - Pedal box, master cylinder and slave cylinder inc all pipe work and bolts. - Rubber boot, leather shifter surround and plastic surround. Leather surround is a bit worn - as consistent with a 20-25 year old car. Plastic surround has a crack in it at the bottom but is hardly noticeable and can easily be glued back together. Chasing $850 Top Mix Racing Seat One piece, fixed back, fiberglass race seat. Set up for a fixed position in R32. Im a big bloke so set up quite a fair way back from the steering wheel. Mounts were made years ago and are a bit on the dodgy side. If purchasing i would recommend making new mounts up. $100 R32 GTS-T standard drivers seat. No stains, rips or tears. Foam on right hand side of backrest is a bit dodgy as shown in 2nd pic. Can feel the metal bar underneath. $50 R32 GTS-T standard passenger seat. 100% Perfect condition. $50

VQ25DET no spark Hi all have just finished transplanting a vq25det into a v35. We have used a z33 6 speed manual gearbox and clutch to bolt it all together. everything is in the car at this point and for some reason we are not getting any spark. I read that the starter motor relay needs to be bypassed so am using a trigger wire and button to turn the motor over while ignition is set to 'ON' (this will be relayed off ignition circuit later) The v35 has been converted from returnless fuel to return setup to suit the new motor 'vq25det'. Fuel pump is currently relayed triggered by 12v ON circuit so we definitely have fuel reaching the rail. The idea was to get the car running on the standard ecu before going haltech and front mount turbo in future. We have the matching ecu from this motor so auto turbo stagea ecu. currently the auto transmission error light flashes with the auto gearbox ecu unplugged and it stays solid if the gearbox ecu is plugged in while trying to start the vehicle. currently the plugs that would have gone to gearbox are not plugged into anything as the manual has almost no sensors. My belief is that the car cannot tell if it is in P when trying to start the engine so it is stoping the motor starting through no spark even though we are forcing the starter motor on. Any thoughts on putting a resistor in the right place to trick the ecu into thinking it is in Park so the motor will start? the only other thing i can think off is the immobilizer due to a different ecu but its still the same key and lock barrel? Any advice would be great. Thanks all

Hey guys, Thought I'd drop an update on the 6MT swap on my 2002 350gt-8.. On Saturday I dropped the diff, driveshaft & CVT with the help of a friend & only nearly killed him once with the cvt falling off the jack hahaha. Got it done in about 2.5-3hrs with a few hours prep I did the weekend before. Prep like drop exhaust, remove most of the bellhousing bolts, CVT clutch lines, loosen what driveshaft bolts I could etc. The most difficult parts were the little things really, remove this to get to that etc. Going through the CVT inspection plate to remove the X (I forgot what its called- between flywheel/torque convertor) otherwise the torque converter will still be attached and fighting the removal of the gearbox. Removed started motor, cable tied it aside to spin and wedge the X to get to the bolts through the inspection plate. Also removed the CVT dipstick & a loom bracket to get bellhousing bolts off from the top inside engine bay. Didn't have to touch the interior just left it in neutral to rotate driveshaft, disconnected gear linkage, was a peice of cake actually. I have a question though.. I sourced a CD001 6MT through this forum like at least 3 years ago for 1k before I knew of the difference. Is it possible to rebuild a CD001 so it has synchros like a CD009 or at least strengthen it?? also I've watched a bunch of youtube vids and I'm getting the impression that it's better to weld an open diff over a VLSD. Can anyone explain why this is please? Also have a 2003 350z VLSD I'm installing along with Whitline bushings essentials kit. Will measure up the driveshaft when 6MT & diff are installed. Next up is to prep the Z1 clutch for install, remove auto flywheel, rear main seal if required etc, solid bushings, interior prep, prep 6MT crossmember, install 6MT, short shifter etc, handbrake relocation(the cable is already right where it needs to be running through the tranny tunnel), clutch/brake pedal install then once that's all done scratching my head for a day maybe dealing with electronics hehe.. Just goto bridge the neutral safety switch and figure out reverse lights I think.. I'm going by this thread below mainly. But didnt even look at it when getting into the job, basically just unbolt remove whats in the way and drop whats needed. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html Yes I'm more than likely forgetting a lot, but it's pretty straight forward. Having my mechanic friend there for really helped figuring out the inspection plate X removal & with tips for getting more leverage/using the car to our advantage. Like loosening the axel shaft bolts with the 2nd spanner pinned up against the sway bar, removing the the driveshaft still attached to the diff as we didnt have the 8mm allen key tool required for the diff side driveshaft. ALL THIS WAS DONE ON WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS WITH BASIC TOOLS BTW...I'm waiting on an order from the USA- 'Never Ending Details'. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY. They f**king suck. Barely any communication, Took ages to ship (nearly 2 months) and that's with me threatening them with a VISA dispute. Anyways just thought I'd add my experience with them. Pretty much follows the multiple bad reviews I've read online, same shit. The order was for flywheel/pressure plate bolts/various peices as it was a lot cheaper than going through Nissan (eg $17.50 VS ~$2 for 1x OEM flywheel bolt) I'm stoked the hard part is pretty much over. More room for activities now hehehe. BTW, the goal for this car is to make it into a nice street/semi drift capable car, with strut bracing/chassis reinforcement, coilovers, camber/angle mods & maybe a plenum spacer/intake being on the cards. Already has a mean sounding full borla exhaust & headers from the previous owner + ditch the wack bob jane special rims for some lightweight Rays TE37's. This car has been sitting for 3-4 years so I'm feeling really accomplished and excited to get her on the road again I will try to keep you guys updated. Cheers, Seb

Hey guys have just put a new engine and box in a auto r33 sedan. Using a manual loom from my previous car. Now i have no speedo. I cannot find any information of anyone doing a manual conversion using a manual loom, into auto car? Thanks in advance

Hey everyone. I just got a manual conversion done on my 1998 r34 gtt and now it is running funny. It revs very slow and goes slower then my na r34 now. It is still running the auto ecu. Im thinking that might be the problem? Or maybe the coils? Please anyone that has had this kind of problem let me know. Ps. Sorry if this is in the wrong part of the forums