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Showing results for tags 'map'.
Found 7 results
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Hey All, As you know, this is one mighty powerful ECU capable of running full flex, anti-lag, launch control, traction control, etc. Also has engine protection features, MAP predict for transient throttle - extremely powerful ECU. I have used it in my car and have tuned other cars running this very ECU. As my needs have changed, I am upgrading to an ECU that supports more features so this bad boy is up for sale, comes with: ECU itself Internal connector & harness (with quick release connectors for flex input, additional wheel speed sensor input, etc) USB port has been repaired and loads of glue has been applied on it (common issue with these ECUs) Price: $800 Location: Canley Vale, NSW Will remove from car after it has been demonstrated working, and will give you a bunch of other tunes too. -
Hi, I've been playing around with tuning my car for a while on top of the base map that I have and it's been quite successful. Full throttle is perfect, but of course, the problem is part throttle. From what I have been told, the PFC d-jetro is incapable of ever getting good results for part throttle on a GTR due to the multiple throttle bodies plennum. I've been told that the problem can be solved, using TPS/INJ corrections and although this will never get perfect results, it will, at least, give drivable ones. Currently, at about 5000rpm+ the AFRs drop into the low 10s and then into 9, at which point, I just have to give up or risk flooding. My question is, what should the curve of the TPS graph look like? I'm guessing it's more complex than just a linear line but I wonder if there is any calculations I can do that will allow me to get an accurate 'estimation' Furthermore, how do ECUs like LINK/SYVECS allow a better tune? (like I appreciate they have more tables for fuelling, but what are these?)
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Hi, i have an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro that i purchased off another member on here few months ago, as im going a different route i have decided that i wont be using the d-jetro so therefore it is now for sale. The ecu came from an r32 gtr running twin hi mount turbos and was tuned at jem. It was tuned on 26psi with the ecu and map sensors as ive been told and was sold to me after the previous owner decided to go for a big single setup and use a different ecu. Comes with everything including Ecu to suit r32/r33 gtr, wiring harness and 2 map sensors as well as a brand new hand controller that was never used and still in box. Previous owner only used the ecu and map sensors and didnt connect the controller. Im chasing $1100 for everything, located in Sydney. -
Hey guys, selling my PowerFC. Comes with the hand controller, MAP sensors / wiring and the box Looking for $1100 OBO Located in Melbourne - SE Suburbs Quickest way to get in touch is to text me on 0407 497 817, but you can PM me, call or whatever and I'll get back to you ASAP.
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Power FC problems (sr20) Hello guys, I am new to this forum. I am just your average 21 year old dude who bought a Nissan 200sx S13 with a SR20DET and I did some modifications. I assume this is gonna be a long post, but please bear with me. So I started my car after 1.5 years and during those months I bought several parts. (Apexi Power FC Djetro, S15 turbo, 555cc nismo injectors and different things but that wont matter) Anyway, 2 days ago I started her up and it went great, except for getting the car to idle. It just WON'T idle at all. I found out that my injectors had the wrong latency. I did 66% and 0.72ms and it should've been 66% and 0.10ms? So I changed that and after a few resets and start ups it went great. First 10 minutes idle, amazing. 800-900rpm, car not shaking. Then I had to turn on the A/C which I dont have. I thought using the climate control and do some cold air would do the trick. Well I guess not. Car was doing weird things. 480rpm-900rpm over and over, here is a video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZXVeiSi1y0 I don't know what to do. My map sensor and IAT are working fine. The car was idling fine but I had to complete te self-learning process. My defroster doesn't work either because some cables are missing. (I found some cables so I am gonna try it out tomorrow, it might work) Other things that you guys might find interesting; My O2 sensor stays at 0.0v, even at idle. I found out today that there is a fat O2 sensor in the elbow, and the redtop ECU uses a Skinny O2. (I had a black top ecu, so this is why there is a fat o2 in there. Black top = fat o2 || redtop = skinny o2) Can it be because of this? How much influence does the O2 sensor have when it comes to the self-learning process? Also, the car starts with boost control on. And I don't even have a boost controller. (I turned it off) My mod list: 555cc nismo gt28 turbo Apexi Power FC D-jetro Apexi powerfilter aftermarket IC HKS wastegate Mishimoto rad AEM Wideband (haven't hooked it up yet, I don't know much about this thing. But it was necessarry for tuners?)
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R34 25DET NEO dies map sensor reads high until lead is wiggled then will drive fine Is running a link g4+ and a 4bar map sensor, after awhile of driving the car will turn off, I have logged it and found that when it dies the map sensor gives a huge reading which I am guessing is incorrect and the car is flooding or shutting off to protect the engine. How do I go about finding the fault from what I can see the wires look fine -
just organising some AFM delete pipes for my R, but was wondering if there is a less restrictive way of planning the intake from the pods now that i don't have to run the AFM's? ie, do you have more flexibility to do something 'better' with the intake piping? or is there no real gains there? (i'm thinking there isn't really anything there worth the hassle, but thought i'd ask anyway) pic of engine bay
