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Hey guys and girls I have been looking into fitting a T56 6 speed manual gearbox or TR606 to my R33 GTR I have carried out allot of research I have found out RWD conversions are possible and have been done but no one has done a AWD conversion that I have been able to find. I think this could be a viable and cost effective option for people who are looking for a quiet street able gearbox which is capable of handling high HP. Now the cost for a setup like this could range from $6000 to $8000 that is a estimate at this stage the first unit would more than likely be more expensive but with more interest these costs could fall The T56 Magnum would probably be the gearbox of choice as it is the strongest syco box they do Able to withstand a massive 700 lb-ft. of torque while providing unbelievably crisp shifts, no other manual transmission on the planet offers as much combined strength, versatility, and general ease-of-use as the T-56 Magnum. Known in its original equipment form as the 'TR-6060', the Magnum is an aftermarket version of the same transmission found in many of today's most celebrated factory super cars – including the ZR1 Corvette and ACR Viper – giving you refinement where you want it and strength where it counts. Other positives about these gearboxes are gear sets PPG have dog configurations and sequential setups for the more hardcore drivers. I personally wouldn’t see the point all you would do is fit a PPG setup to the factory 5 speed. The bell housing is also allot larger this may offer GTR owners more clutch options more surface area and the possibility to run a nicer street able clutch (sprung centre) The biggest positive is retaining the 4WD and for me that the game changer. This isn't set in stone as yet, I am looking for advice and wisdom there is a huge amount of knowledge on this forum and would love to hear your thoughts and comments thanks for your time Frosty

Hey guys i changed a friends clutch over the weekend in his R34 gt-t (pull-type) I am not going to go into too much detail, im going to be brief and only expand on a few things that i thought might be handy for people that have experience with push type clutches but have not done a pull type before. *If you are not mechanicly minded or you dont have any experience, i would not recommend you doing this* So what do you need? -you obviously need a replacement clutch, in my case it was a 3 puck exedy (awesome clutch) -clutch alignment tool -new thrust bearing - if it doesnt come with your clutch kit, order one through nissan -new rear main seal - you must change this unless u dont mind taking the gearbox back off again when it starts leaking -new spigot bush - not essential but you have the gearbox off so you might aswell change it too its only 5 dollars -a hoist of some sort, doing this on the ground is just silly.. it can be done but its just silly lol Ok so you have the car on the hoist.. -before you lift the car up start by taking the gearshifter off the gearbox, remove the gearknob/gearboot cover and also the secondary gearboot which is held in by 4 10mm bolts, you then cut the cable tie holding the gearshifter boot on the gearbox, there is a circlip that needs to be taken off before the stick will come out as shown below, put the gearshifter into 1st it will give you abit more room to work with -once u have the circlip off, put it back into nuetral then pull it out, dont let the oil drip around, have a rag handy -1 more thing before you lift the car up, so the engine can tilt freely when the gearbox is dropped you should undo a few things inside the engine bay depending on the modifications of the car, in my case all i undid was the intercooler piping and the radiator brackets just incase the fan pushed up against the top of the shroud but it didnt end up moving much anyway -once the car is up high, remove the exhaust and the cat converter sheild which is held in by 2 10mm bolts or else it will get in the way, possibly even cut you haha its quite sharp -remove tail shaft -drain the gearbox oil -unbolt the slave cylinder and remove the rubber boot -you will see something like this when you look inside the bell housing: -remove the clip that is sitting at the top side of the fork from your view, the pin that is going through the fork should drop down, you may need to get a flat head screw driver and guide it down, make sure you collect the pieces that fall down once the gearbox is off, do not lose them -this alows the fork to seperate from the thrust bearing which is clipped onto the pressure plate -it is essential you do this before you try to take the gearbox off the engine because it will get jammed and will not come off -now you can undo the gearbox cross member from the 4 x 17mm bolts and let the tail of the box drop -remove the cross membor from the box by the 2 x 12mm nuts that are holding it onto the gearbox mount -you should now be able to unclip the 3 sensors and move them aside -have a gearbox holding hydraulic platform ready if u have one otherwise if your ronnie coleman u can just bicep curl it i guess -undo all the gearbox bolts, the hardest one would have to be the top starter motor bolt, i used many different extensions and angled connectors to get to it, see what u can do -gearbox should come off now -now that the box is off and its pushed aside where u wont trip over it (safety first guys.. hehe), collect the fork, pin, washer and clip out of the bell housing and put them aside -pull the thrust bearing off the pressure plate -remove the pressure plate (9 x 12mm) and clutch disc -remove the flywheel (6 x 17mm) and get it machined flat (not essential but highly highly recommend) -now is your chance to replace the rear main seal and the spigot bush (if you dont know how to do this or you dont have the tools to do it, do NOt touch it because if you damage it and your stuck halfway, your in the shit..) -once you get your flyhweel back, make sure the flywheel bolts are clean (6 x 19mm) and bolt it back on, you can use loctite thread locker if your padantic about it but if you have a strong rattle gun the strongest setting should do the trick (do not over do it either), it should look something like this; double check the bolts and make sure there is no oil or grease on the surface -install the clutch disc and pressure plate, again making sure the surfaces clean, using a clutch alignment tool is handy and will help the gearbox to slide in easily when your fitting it double check all the bolts again, you cant be too careful -back to the gearbox, fitment of the thrust bearing isnt all that tricky, theres only 1 way it will fit, this is what it should look like; -there is a straight edge on the head of the pin that fits against a straight edge on the fork, make sure they correspond, the washer sits under the clip and the clip goes thru the pin and into a small hole on the fork -if you are happy with everything, proceed, if you are hesistant about anything, ask for advice because you dont want to pull the box back off because of something stupid -make sure the thrust bearing is all the way back, once the box is fully on, u then pull the fork towards the rear of the car and it clicks in place onto the pressure plate -re-fitting the gearbox was abit of a pain, i had to undo the engine mount nuts halfway to allow the engine to tilt abit more than what it was and luckily it was just enough, also be careful with the input shaft, it can damage the ring on center the pressure plate so just be gentle, DONT force anything, get the angle right, then push steadily -once you have the box on and seated in place insert the 2 bolts on each side of the box, and then all the others in the same manner you removed it, including the tricky top starter motor bolt hehe -now you can push the fork so gently so u hear a click noise, it should not come back out, if it doesn, you have damaged something the circular clip that holds the thrust bearing and you will need to remove the gearbox off, this is very important -once your happy tighten back up the engine mount nuts if u undid them like i did -connect up the plugs for the sensors and tuck them away safely as they were previously inside those bendy black things -use the hydraulic stand to lift the tail of the box back up, install the gearbox crossmember as u removed it -refit tail shaft, slave cylinder, cat convertor sheild, exhaust, gear shifter etc -undo the filler plug on the side of the box with a long breaker bar and fill the box with oil (approx 3.5L) i used redline lightweight, worth every penny, made the box really smooth and got rid of the notchyness -put the car down, refit all the stuff you pulled off inside the engine bay to allow the engine to tilt previously (intercooler pipes etc) -go over everything, make sure you dont have any bolts left over, or any parts now you can drop a skid .. not really, its best to bed the clutch in for the first 500kms or so with easy driving, then a skid or two i will proof read this later, feel free to ask me any questions thanks oz

So I have been watching some of the video's peddling these and on paper they look like magic. I have a r34 getrag with a nismo supercoppermix and its amazing to drive, just holds the power but the box is noisy and I would like a little more room power wise. So the claim is with the new dampening design in the Uniclutch I will get "near" factory levels of gearbox noise without the dual mass flywheel. The torque ratings are very high so power seems like no issue, 800ft/lb will be near 1000hp on an rb26. So the only question I have is pedal weight, it will be going from pull to push. I have an injury that means an overly heavy pedal will not be do-able. Any one used one yet ?

Will a GTR diff fit into a GTST? will it bolt in directly. Can I swap my current GTST stubs and shafts onto the GTR Diff? sorry newbie when it comes to the diff

My r34 GTT auto transmission is slowly letting go, slipping every now and again, tiptronic deciding to not keep it in 1st / 2nd when flooring it, taking longer to shift so I’m going going flush it and replace the filter and hope it lasts a bit longer. I’ve got 10L of Penrite ATF FS at home and I’m going to use it for it unless ye completely recommend against it. Penrite list it as compatible. i understand I should be using Castro Transzmax however it’s quite expensive and I already have 10L of the ATF fs. Has anyone here used atf fs for there got or heard of anyone? Or am I silly for even considering anything other then Castrol Thanks for your advice

I had this clutch (STR2CD ) in my GTST for about 8 years. I did about 8,000km on it, 30% city traffic, the rest 4th/5th gear on the motorway. Clutch was never abused .. no burnouts, daily commute etc. Long story short: Clutch started to slip in 4th+ gear at 3800rpm coming onto boost (18PSI) Checked the slave cylinder, and (the plunger) sits tight with no play. I had trouble getting the slave cylinder bolted on again, it's about 2mm 'off' So I presume this is down to wear. I don't know how much play the plunger/fork had at installation though. Clutch was installed brand new, with the supplied bearing carrier/sleeve. (16mm) I don't want to pull the box atm and was thinking shortening the plunger by 2mm .. clutch should still disengage I reckon. Thoughts on this? Would that be an option?

hey guys, have an issue with my 32 GTR car was parked up in december to do a single turbo conversion, did not touch the driveline or rear end and the car drove with no issues. finished it up in april and started getting massive shudder/ tramp in 1st gear its a nismo coppermix twin plate so should drive like stock, found the only way to avoid it is to drive it like a button clutch. goes through all the other gears fine, is only on take off. have since replaced diff fluids with the nissan recommended stuff, only thing i can think of is the suspension being compressed for a while on one side while i had the front passenger side jacked up; mightve seized something? thanks

Hi! My R32 GT-R has developed a 4wd light I've done some error finding and need to have some input If i start the car i get the 4wd lamp in the cluster and errorcode 18 (18 – ETS pressure switch or circuit) I've tested the pressure switch and it's normally closed to earth when car is off and if I run the pump manually via the relay in the boot the switch goes to open so the switch seems to work. The pump does not sound bad and builds pressure within a 1-2sec from cold and makes the switch go to open state If i run the pump for more than 1-2sec it changes sound from a normal pump sound to something that sounds like a hising/overflow sound so that seems ok I can actually get the 4wd to work if i manually run the pump for 1-2sec , then set the ignition to on and starts the car Can it be a bad nitrogen canister? I've checked all power and earth to the box and solenoid/motor system and it's all fine

With my CD swap I am going carbon driveshaft; I want my driveline as sturdy as possible; however one thing that keeps bugging me is the rear diff flange limitations of a 1310 yoke. I have seen and adapter for the 350z R200 that lets you run a 1350 yoke. However to the best of my research abilities the 350z R200 pinions are most likely incompatible with S/R/Z32 R200 diffs. Am I wrong? are there other options?

Hey guys, I was looking to see if you all could shed some light on installing the R32 GTR. I currently don't have any help available and all the videos I've seen is how to remove it. I had to replace the clutch and I have been having a hell of a time getting it back in. I am doing this in the garage and the car is on jack stands so that alone makes it harder. I do have a transmission jack and another low-profile jack. I have read that you have to rotate it clockwise for the starter bump to clear the firewall then once it slides in you can rotate it back and tighten it up (writing that out sounds a lot easier said than done, lol) Appreciate any help you can give. Frustrated seeing it on jack stands and not having the motivation to get it done because every time I do I end up failing at it.

I've got a 1996 Corolla and i'm thinking about converting it from FWD to either RWD or AWD. Just looking for a general price range so I can get a good idea.

Hey guys, im in the process of putting in my CV joints and there seems to be an issue where while I’m tightening the CV - HUB nut, it is pulling the stub axle on the diff out. I can see on the passenger side it is slightly out which I thought is normal. However on the drivers side it’s pulled out a lot further than the passenger side. I have the longer CV on the drivers side and shorter one on the passenger side. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I can do? cheers

Hey everyone. I'm looking to change the rear differential in my 91 GTST Type-M. The car is RB25neo swapped with a CD009 6 speed transmission from a 370z. The car currently has a very aggressive 2 way differential- It was the only modification on the car from Japan when I got it 8 years ago so I am not sure on the brand. It feels incredible on track but it makes horrendous noise and chatter on the street. Trying to find a happy medium. I am looking for a longer gear ratio, currently a 4.36, maybe something around 3.7-4.0. I am looking for recommendations on brands and options from users with real experience. The car is built around weekend/mountain driving with 3-5 track days a year. I've done some significant research on various forums, more specifically, on the Nismo GT Pro, OS Giken, and Quaife. They all sound great on paper but haven't been able to talk to someone with real life experience using them. Thanks in advance!

Hello, I am in the middle of installing the attesa ets pro in my r33 gtr non vspec and am confused with how the safety solenoid should be wired up. 12V switched to one side? And then ground or 2V to the other? Has anyone installed the ets pro to an attesa system with the safety solenoid? I can not find any information on how the safety solenoid should be wired up. cheers

Hey SAU, I just bought my first GTR (and Nissan car for that matter) 2 months ago. During the first 2 weeks in my possession, there were no leaks. One night when I was backing the car out, I saw a small puddle. I came back home shortly after and put a tray underneath (left side/turbo side). Next morning I inspected the tray and found out it was red, could only be power steering fluid (Dexron ATF). I researched around and concluded the leak can either be Power steering itself or from the Attesa unit. I searched around GTROC and SAU and someone recommended Nulon Power Steering Stop Leak and Conditioner, it worked for them so why can't it work for me? It doesn't work unfortunately, it still leaks (a drop every hour or two I reckon) and now screeches on full lock (power steering doesn't like the fluid). I have recently lifted the car and took off the front diffusers to take pictures. Any help to solve this problem would be greatly appreciated! (From a R34 GTR, I don't think it makes a big difference but just incase people are asking). Really wet This is where the drips are coming from I guess. This thing was wet, I thought this was the culprit at first. This should be ok right? Slight oil dripping from corner of sump (I can't remember but I'm sure it was the sump), should be ok right? Yet again, any help would be greatly appreciated. I need this fixed so it doesn't play in the back of my mind when I start building this monster.

Hello all, So, power steering pump went in my R32GTR, fluid everywhere. Took it to the mechanic and rebuilt the pump. When I drove the car next in 4th gear at around 1500rpm it makes a ‘metal on metal’ grinding noise, and in 5th gear not as loud does the same, at about 2000rpm it goes away. It seems to be coming from the middle of the car. Rear diff was rebuilt, fuse was pulled to check transfer case, the mechanics tried everything but couldn’t track it down. Any help would be amazing!!! Thanks in advance

Anyone install the ETS Pro plus with the ABS sensor connection ? I have all the wiring diagrams, but I don't know which ABS wires are + and -... I expect it matters !? Anyone know if this is going to cause a problem for the factory ABS etc and stop it functioning ? Car is a series 1 R32 GTR jap import.

Hi all, My 1990 R32 GT-R has developed a bad knocking sound coming from the what I assume is the front differential (the reason why I assume this is when I pull the fuse for the asetta the knock disappears put it back in and it comes back and yes the transfer case and gearbox has fresh oil in it), the uni joint on the front differential side was broken bad it would have been causing massive vibrations into the pinion gear, has anyone experienced this before? And is anyone selling a front differential Center complete with pinion and crown gear ? For the drive shaft I can’t find any driveline workshops in SE QLD that will put a new uni joint on the front prop shaft as they are a staked uni joint no one wants to touch it 😭 does anyone have any recommendations on any workshops that can replace the uni joint ? sorry if this has been posted before I couldn’t find anything using the search function for this exact issue thank you NSM32 sorry for the bad photo, yes it’s missing a bolt I took the photo while removing the shaft to take to a workshop to try and get it repaired

I'm a life long lover of the R34 GTR and whilst they were attainable when i was a kid now that I'm an adult they are totally unobtanium thanks to the collector car market. from My research it seems the ENR34 shares the Atessa AWD system of the GTR, are the only drive train differences between an ENR34 and BNR34 the gear box and engine? because if so would it not then be possible to "build my own GTR" (speaking purely in regards to drivetrain) with an engine swap to an ENR34 and maybe platinum racing Atessa ETS pro system? does anyone know what the differences are between ENR34 and BNR34 rear diff's? because if the only difference is that one has an LSD and the other doesn't that's also a relatively easy thing to correct. From research on this forum it seems that the ENR34 uses the same gearbox as the r32-r33 gtr. I don't care about an interior conversion nor do I care about an exterior conversion, the bottom line is that I'm asking if I can build an ENR34 that drives like a BNR34 with the above drive train upgrades and aftermarket suspension. even if it costs 30 grand to upgrade the drive train of an ENR34 to be close to that of a BNR34 it would still be a fraction of the cost of buying an actual GTR Afterall, and I don't care if I'm not driving the genuine article I just want a car that drives as similarly as possible to the BNR34. *EDIT ( I know the obvious answer to this question is "for how much this would cost you could just buy an r32 GTR" i know that, but I dont love the r32 GTR or the R33 GTR so I would never buy one of them, I do however love the R34 enough to be willing to spend even as much as 60k on this conversion even knowing that if i chose to sell it I would be lucky to get 20 grand for it later.)

Hi guys, I've noticed lately that sometimes when I start the car up the power button light flashes 16 times. The button itself is always set in the middle, I don't bother with it. The car shifts fine and haven't had a problem with it except a couple times it wouldn't shift up until around 4-5,000 rpm when it was really cold. Anyone know what the flashing means? I'm taking it for a service and shift kit install soon but would like to know what the deal is before i do it. Cheers!

Hey guys, After a bit of advice... I want to put an R32 GTR diff into my GTS-t. I looked at changing the whole cradle but don't want to do all that, and have the wheels poking out the guards! I've heard the front yoke can be interchanged with the GTS-t diff, but what about the side stubs? I *think* there are a different number of splines between the two. I know the connection to the half shafts is different. I have a whole GTR rear cradle to play with. My questions are: Can custom ones be made? Can I cut and weld them to make what I want? The half shafts from the GTR are longer - can they be shortened and put in? Is there an easier way to do this? Any other advice? I have no faith in the GTS-t diff, I've been through two and from what I've heard the viscous LSD's are shit. Thanks in advance for any replies. You guys are worth your weight in gold. Bobby.

Have searched for threads on this but had no luck. Read somewhere on here recently that 32 GTR rear hubs are alloy & around 2.5kg lighter each than 32 GTST items. Apparently with GTR rear coilovers & LCAs ( or some modifications to OE) they can be fitted to the GTST reducing unsprung weight & also allowing more choice in coilovers. Am looking into doing this but anyway, my question is, are 32 GTR front hubs also alloy & can they be fitted to a 32 GTST? If so, what modifications are needed? Has anyone done this? I have a munted wheel bearing knocking like the wheel is going to fall off & can get hold of GTR front hubs very cheap. Therefore if they are an upgrade & are able to be fitted (with light modifications even) I would obviously prefer to go with these rather than repairing my originals... Any help would be appreciated! Cheers, Brett

Hey just wanting to know if a R34 gtr wheel hub will bolt onto a R34gt rear knuckle? I am doing a 350z lsd conversion and I came across an issue with the rear axles fitting into the wheel hub as the spline count is different. I think the r33/4 (GTR)wheel hubs are 32 spline while the standard 3x2 rear axles are about 28, the 350z rear axles I’m using are also 32 spline so I don’t see why it won’t fit apart from where the hubs bolt onto the knuckle I am not 100% sure about any of this and would like some info before I go mix n match and help would be appreciated.🙏

Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement clutch for my R32 R. I currently have a Nismo twin plate (The super copper mix one) and it is, in short, horrible. Happy with the twin plates, happy with the lightened flywheel its just that the friction surface is sticky and horrible to slip It makes driving the car around town a chore. Output is 450rwhp only.

Transmission synchros feel pretty bad at this point in my car and sometimes the clutch feels like it has an inconsistent engagement point in the pedal travel. I figure if I'm going to swap in a new transmission I may as well also put in a new clutch. Obvious candidates are ATS's pull-type twin plate carbon clutch, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin, or some organic clutch option I haven't figured out yet. I have searched this stuff to death at this point and still don't feel all that confident in making a decision. Target power is not much. ~330 kW at the wheels max. I ballpark the torque spec at 600 N-m. The stock clutch feels a little light so a little heavier is ok but I would say no more than 15-20% additional pedal effort. For some reason most clutch manufacturers want to keep this stuff a secret but the Coppermix Twin is 950 kg clamp load so I figure it can't be too much heavier than stock. The hang-up I have is some people mentioning that the clutch is very grabby which sounds like a pain. The stock clutch is almost too easy to modulate so I don't mind if it requires more precision than that but I don't want to deal with something that feels like I'm getting rear-ended at every traffic light. Also I see some mention of the release bearing carrier sizing requiring some work which sounds like something that might complicate installation? It would be good to know exactly what is needed here for a 1995 R33 GTR. The ATS clutch is supposedly the best but I've seen some complaints that they wear out easily and also slip when cold. I don't know how much of that is true but the cost is also huge compared to even the Nismo Coppermix twin plate. It's also unsprung which normally I would reject immediately but supposedly carbon clutches don't need it. The higher clamp load at 1300 kg is also a little concerning but to me more clamp load seems like it inevitably means more pedal effort and also more strain on the engine crank thrust bearings. This is a street car and despite being a weekend car I seem to spend a lot of time crawling in severe traffic congestion with it anyways so I will gladly pay to have something that is easy to drive on and will hold the power with no unexpected headaches. I really don't want to do a clutch twice.