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This may be a bit of an odd question but I was installing the my Tomei head studs and the instructions call for the use of thread locker. I know other head studs either don't recommend thread locker or recommend the use of oil or fastener lub, and I cant seem to find any recommendation for the type or strength of thread locker on Tomeis website. I was wonder if anyone with on here with experience Tomei head studs had any recommendation on what thread locker to use or if it necessary.

Im doing an rb30det at the moment and wanted to make a drilling guide to hold it all straight and in the right place. If you are doing an rb30det and are a little confused on the location of the top tensioner bolt then you can use this to help you out. its an stl and it will 3d print on your printer, The hole in the middle is 8.5mm which is the perfect taping size for a 10 x 1.5 mm tap v2.stl

As the title suggest this is not a happy story. A little back story for those who find the "why/how" interesting [If not feel free to skip down a paragraph or two]. Back in end of 2021 after saving all my birthday money, sell one RB26 project engine, and even parting way with one of my project cars I decided to take a huge leap in my GTR journey and purchased a complete RB30 bottom end from RIPS Racing. After months of waiting, the day finally came when the engine arrived at my shop. Understandable I was like a kid on Christmas morning wait with the shop doors open as the truck carrying my present backed in and delivered my engine. Only to have all my joy turn to dread as I noticed some damage to the packaging. Upon further investigation it turned out that at some point in its trip across the US something large and heavy crashed down on the the block cracking the rear drivers side oil return. Wait you might say shouldn't insurance cover that? You did get the additional insurance didn't you? Welp....no...no I did not. This was my first time handling an international shipment that required additional insurance and I learned the hard way what "limited liability" means and because I didn't get said insurance I was stuck trying to figure out what to do next. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So after assessing the damage and getting the sad new from the shipping company I reached out to RIPS to see what could be done to make the block useable. [See below response from RIPS] I’d put a straight edge on the deck surface and see how much the outer edge had dropped and then make the call of either cleaning the inside and the outside of the block and smear some high quality high temp 2 pack epoxy over the crack inside and out not allowing any to protrude above the deck surface (could literally wipe it off the deck surface while its wet) then once fully cured and all the rags out etc when installing the head gasket and head, apply a tiny amount of high temp sealer to both sides of the gasket in that area, torque the head up as usual, install the little M6 bolt with a spring washer only (this ill dig into the head and allow you to nip up the bolt GENTLY and it won’t come loose. If you go too tight you would risk braking that little area of the head casting so it wouldn’t need to be very tight at all, just enough so the M6 won’t come loose. Alternatively If the area has dropped too much you could carefully break that small section off, clean up any burrs remove some material in a V on the inside and outside edges of the crack (on the removed section only and possibly the OUTSIDE of the block, not in the inside) then test fit it until you can see its sitting back exactly where it was, the top is flush and level (it will naturally kind of click back into place) then clean everything real good and do the same as above with the 2 pack epoxy and gently clamp across the block (with a woodworking clamp with soft pads) make sure nothing is proud on the deck surface then once fully cured, as above apply just a tiny amount of sealer both sides of the gasket just in that area and once again just nip up the M6 bolt enough so it won’t come loose. I reached out to a local machinist, mans built/worked on everything from nitrometh bikes to COBBs R35, and he recommended something similar. His only additional concern was supporting the cracked area and ensuring that the damaged position doesn't "pop" off. Unfortunately do to the location of the crack there's no good way to run a bolt from the outside of the block into the water jacket to lock it in place. I've looked into "block sticking" and most traditional methods are likely to make the crack worse as it pushes they the metal apart as the bolt and tap go in. I have looked into Lock-N-Stitch which is specifically designed to pull material in as its installed but I'm not sure if that would work or be applicable in this circumstance given the location of the cracks and the fact that at least to some degree the crack goes from one side to the other. The only other thought that's been bouncing around in my head is running the epoxy on the outside completely across from one crack to the other to create a skin/outer layer to try and mitigate the chances of the damaged section popping off. I've attached the pictures of the damaged area as it currently sites. Any advise you guys can give would be greatly appreciated and my apologies for the lengthy post but this has been a very long a draining process.

Hello everyone , I am looking for the height rating of the RB30, because I would like to know if mine has already been planed or not mine placed on my marble is approximately 286 millimeters and the shirt is 152 millimeters

Hi Ive just send my 30 block off to get bored honed etc in the meantime ive just had my 25 head tested and decked and vct grub screwed my question is the water gallery near the old vct should I have had something welded up can I just use a rb30 mls gasket please help cheers Rob.

Just wanted to show of my engine im putting together the photos are slightly in day 1 stages to presant.. Rb30 series 2 engine from a skyline r31 Strippped down measured cleaned tested. Bored to 86.5. Decked oil restrictors fitted tentioner relocated Crank was measured up balanced and fitted with a collar and grub screwed Ditched the standard rods and pistons and bought cp flat tops with spool rods was going to keep the rods a peen them but was told by the time you do all that and also have to line hone them its better to buy the spool. New water pump, new N1 oil pump with relived pressure not fitted yet Stainless core plugs instead of the copper ones ? Thats where im at for now waiting on work for the head and getting enlarged sump made up here are some photos

cam gear won’t line up cam comes out 20mm and inner of the gear is 28mm

where should the AFM go on rb25DET ? i`ve seen pics of it next to the throttle body , and other pics of it placed on intake of turbo..

i`m slightly confused with the wiring loom on the rb25. ( into R31) i have the attached colors for wires on the ecu pinout , but not ALL the wires match with the diagram. for instance : diagram says : pin 101 -white with blue stripe , my loom shows white with silver bands. pin 104 - light green, mine shows orange with silver bands pin 105 - yellow , mine shows white with green. ETC..... any idea whats goin on ?

Hi All, I need help on putting together an engine build plan. I have built a couple of engines before so enjoy getting my hands dirty but will need a support network and thus my first post here today. Car is a Holden FE 1957 ute with the goal of Friday end of week quick drive and when ever possible club events and sprints. I am not after drag strip and dyno hero. With this in mind and the fact the ute only weighs around 1200kgs I am thinking of 300-400kw at engine should be plenty. I am also not sure if I go RB25, RB30/25, or RB30. From reading alot of posts here Option 1 - Buy full RB25 Neo for $3500 - mods, not sure and what to budget $??? Option 2 - Build RB30 $5000+ really need to know how to get this to a realistic build spec Purchase RB30 engine from wrecker $400 Crank grind, new rings, hone $500 do myself New water pump $200 N1 oil pump $400 Head port, valves, seats, cam etc $600 do myself Cam 503TXM $500 Inlet manifold, ebay $250 Z32 AFM $100 Injectors 650cc and fuel rail $400 Exhaust manifold cast iron $700 Turbo, gt35, not sure what spec and what to budget $??? Wastgate, not sure what spec and what to budget $??? Gaskets $500 Intercooler 600x300x75 $200 ECU, not sure and what to budget $??? David

I’m sure this has been done to death, but I can no longer find the proper Dohc guide. There seems to be a million ways to do this, but for those who have just tapped the rib under the vct solenoid, what size have you tapped it? 1/8 or 1/16? 1/8 seems to be easier to get fittings etc but not sure if it’s too big.

Hi guys so I have a customer's car in ready for some fab work and something has caught my eye & I believe it's going to cause alot of issues but the customer has been reassured by his engine builder that its fine. But basically they have put a 10mm spacer under 1 engine mount to keep the sump off the steering rack. The mount isn't even sitting flush on the chassis either. Refer to 2nd picture. I will let the pictures do the talking. Appreciate any feedback you might have.

Hello Everyone Chev R here from South Africa. I am in need of advice from some of the guys that have done this before. I have checked a few threads on turbos that guys suggested and has been been covered. My need currently is this I am building a Rb30/25 and have got my current turbo specs as follows: Ar 70 compressor housing Compressor wheel 58mm Exhaust housing Ar68 Exhaust wheel 64mm Now some of the guys I know in the drag seen here advise that the turbo will be perfect down low but will probably choke towards limiter maybe 6000rpm. What is your take on this please need some guidance? I will be limiting rev range to 7000. One of the guys I know offered me a turbonetics 7868. I will attach specs as per my research. What I am after is is my turbo going to run out of steam higher in the rev range. If someone has had a similar turbo set up? If so would the turbonetics be a good second option as this is being offered to me at a good price. Car will be used for street and once the covid pandemic passes at the race track from time to time. Apologies posting again because I may have posted In the wrong forum. Would the turbonetics be a good set up for street mostly occasionally quarter mile track? Basic breakdown of my build Rb25det head a little work done to it. Solid lifter ,solid cams, ported and flowed with Rb26 valves ,quarter's, retainers and lifters Solid cams solid lifters , cams cut 270 Rb30 sub 86.5mm pistons , hastings rings Oil restricted 1.5mm Rods short peened , and arp rod bolts Rb25det oil pump Rotating assembly balanced Appreciate all the help and assistance Brian ( Chev R)

So im about to purchase a 30 for a e36 25/30 build and was wondering a few things so my questions are will a rb25 wiring loom need much changing apart from the e36 side of things? (ill be ordering a e36 rb25 loom) for a 25 box i just need a 25 slave and starter? is haltec the only real way to go ecu wise or could i nistune a 25 ecu what power can stock studs handle is there a reason i shouldnt use a n/a 25 head and ecu if i dont want to turbo it straight away above all that i dont want to make big power straight away just want it to be usable

Need help finding new correct forger pistons for 9.0cr for new engine build with 25 neo head? What has everyone else used? I know spool do a custom set of cp pistons and also I can order a set off the shelf of cp but they bring comp to approx 9.3cr which ive told you will need to put a thicker head gasked. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bass

Hey guys im tossing up between turbo choices for a mainly street driven with the odd track day a few times a year. Im looking for minimal lag yet still torque throughout as much of the rev range as possible, about 8k rev limiter. Engine is fully forged with 260 poncams on e85 and all supporting mods including oil pump gasket, sump etc For obvious legal reasons id like to keep the turbo internal gated. Choices are between the gtx3576 gen 2 or gtx3582 gen 2 (both internal gate with ford xr6 style rear housing and flapper ported to 39-40mm for better boost control. Any other very streetable that you guys can recommend???

Hi guys, Ive been fortunate enough to get a set of reasonably priced forged pistons for a rb2530 neo build. They are mahle model: nis232405d12 86.5mm Now I know the rb30 doesnt have squirters so thats one less issue. But now question is will these work in that bottom end?? Ive got nitto forged Rods. These are flat top pistons right? Will these pistons work with the neo head for a cr of 9.0 or slightly above 9.0? Would my machinist know? Hope someone knows!

I am running a rb26/30 4wd i have a oem rb26 dip stick how do modify it so it would be accurate ? any pics would help

I am running a rb26/30 4wd i have a oem rb26 dip stick how do modify it so it would be accurate ? any pics would help

Hi im Markus 25years old and new in this great place! I am from Austria so my english is not the best :-D Im building an Rb30/26 engine for my R33Gtr. Aiming for 700hp.. Block is machined to 87mm and i use Cp flattop pistons. The pistons are ceramic and graphit coated. I would also like to fit oil squirters from Rb26. Now my question: Where should i drill the holes for the squirters. I saw already all pics on google but im not sure where exactly!? Would be nice if someone can help me.

Hi Im currently building a rb25/30 and pretty much at the stage where I need to think hard about turbo choice The botton end is forged spool rods, cps,.. Id like a fast street car but a daily aswell looking for 400hp maybe abit more but want to stay on pump fuel Will the gt3582r turbo be a good choice cheers for any professional info.

Hey Just wondering if anyone has any review on Kulig Engineering Rb30 awd adaptor, there is a guy selling one near me. I can't seem to find any details or information in my Google searching Here is there site http://www.kuligeng.com.au/autoengineering.html Thank you for the help Rob

Hi all, I seem to have a re-occurring exhaust cam/lifter wear problem on my RB30/26 and was wondering if anyone else has seen this ? Originally cams were Kelford 182E's with Tomei lifters and after 500 miles or so the engine started making a increasingly loud ticking noise. After pulling the cam covers off I found some of the exhaust cam lobes and liftere were showing signs of wear. One lobe and lifter in particular was very bad (near cap 5). The lifter had actually mushroomed as can be seen in the pictures below.There seemed to be plenty of oil in the cam covers so I was advised it may be a material hardness issue on the cam or lifter. The inlet cam/followers were ok. The cams were replaced with Tomei cams/lifters and after around 2000 miles the same wear is apparent on one of the new exhaust cam lobes but in a different position this time - lobe/lifter 2. Again plenty of oil seems to be up there but I'm wondering if this must be some sort of oil supply issue to the exhaust cam area. Again the inlet cam is fine. Checked valve clearances and most are within tolerance still apart from number 2 exhaust lobe/lifter which now has a big clearance and rather than mushrooming it looks like the lifter now has a slight bowl in its top. The engine has a N1 oil pump with wide drive collar and blocked of rear feed to head and Tomei front oil restrictor to head. Plenty of oil pressure measured in the block. Anyone seen this before ? Cheers Stu

Need an rb30 bottom end. Must be willing to post to states.

Hey guys, looking at the many HKS, HPI and Trust oil cooler setups. It appears they attach on top of the stock RB26 cooler setups, Im looking for one to completely bypass all that and go direct to the block. Requirements: 1) Has provision for v-cam/both OEM oil sensors. Hopefully these are located after the oil has passed through the oil filter. HKS requires oil line location after filter or adding screen mesh in line. 2) The filter can be stacked on top of plate or relocated. 3) Is thermostat equipped. Am I overthinking this? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!