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This may be a bit of an odd question but I was installing the my Tomei head studs and the instructions call for the use of thread locker. I know other head studs either don't recommend thread locker or recommend the use of oil or fastener lub, and I cant seem to find any recommendation for the type or strength of thread locker on Tomeis website. I was wonder if anyone with on here with experience Tomei head studs had any recommendation on what thread locker to use or if it necessary.

Im doing an rb30det at the moment and wanted to make a drilling guide to hold it all straight and in the right place. If you are doing an rb30det and are a little confused on the location of the top tensioner bolt then you can use this to help you out. its an stl and it will 3d print on your printer, The hole in the middle is 8.5mm which is the perfect taping size for a 10 x 1.5 mm tap v2.stl

Hello everyone , I am looking for the height rating of the RB30, because I would like to know if mine has already been planed or not mine placed on my marble is approximately 286 millimeters and the shirt is 152 millimeters

As the title suggest this is not a happy story. A little back story for those who find the "why/how" interesting [If not feel free to skip down a paragraph or two]. Back in end of 2021 after saving all my birthday money, sell one RB26 project engine, and even parting way with one of my project cars I decided to take a huge leap in my GTR journey and purchased a complete RB30 bottom end from RIPS Racing. After months of waiting, the day finally came when the engine arrived at my shop. Understandable I was like a kid on Christmas morning wait with the shop doors open as the truck carrying my present backed in and delivered my engine. Only to have all my joy turn to dread as I noticed some damage to the packaging. Upon further investigation it turned out that at some point in its trip across the US something large and heavy crashed down on the the block cracking the rear drivers side oil return. Wait you might say shouldn't insurance cover that? You did get the additional insurance didn't you? Welp....no...no I did not. This was my first time handling an international shipment that required additional insurance and I learned the hard way what "limited liability" means and because I didn't get said insurance I was stuck trying to figure out what to do next. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So after assessing the damage and getting the sad new from the shipping company I reached out to RIPS to see what could be done to make the block useable. [See below response from RIPS] I’d put a straight edge on the deck surface and see how much the outer edge had dropped and then make the call of either cleaning the inside and the outside of the block and smear some high quality high temp 2 pack epoxy over the crack inside and out not allowing any to protrude above the deck surface (could literally wipe it off the deck surface while its wet) then once fully cured and all the rags out etc when installing the head gasket and head, apply a tiny amount of high temp sealer to both sides of the gasket in that area, torque the head up as usual, install the little M6 bolt with a spring washer only (this ill dig into the head and allow you to nip up the bolt GENTLY and it won’t come loose. If you go too tight you would risk braking that little area of the head casting so it wouldn’t need to be very tight at all, just enough so the M6 won’t come loose. Alternatively If the area has dropped too much you could carefully break that small section off, clean up any burrs remove some material in a V on the inside and outside edges of the crack (on the removed section only and possibly the OUTSIDE of the block, not in the inside) then test fit it until you can see its sitting back exactly where it was, the top is flush and level (it will naturally kind of click back into place) then clean everything real good and do the same as above with the 2 pack epoxy and gently clamp across the block (with a woodworking clamp with soft pads) make sure nothing is proud on the deck surface then once fully cured, as above apply just a tiny amount of sealer both sides of the gasket just in that area and once again just nip up the M6 bolt enough so it won’t come loose. I reached out to a local machinist, mans built/worked on everything from nitrometh bikes to COBBs R35, and he recommended something similar. His only additional concern was supporting the cracked area and ensuring that the damaged position doesn't "pop" off. Unfortunately do to the location of the crack there's no good way to run a bolt from the outside of the block into the water jacket to lock it in place. I've looked into "block sticking" and most traditional methods are likely to make the crack worse as it pushes they the metal apart as the bolt and tap go in. I have looked into Lock-N-Stitch which is specifically designed to pull material in as its installed but I'm not sure if that would work or be applicable in this circumstance given the location of the cracks and the fact that at least to some degree the crack goes from one side to the other. The only other thought that's been bouncing around in my head is running the epoxy on the outside completely across from one crack to the other to create a skin/outer layer to try and mitigate the chances of the damaged section popping off. I've attached the pictures of the damaged area as it currently sites. Any advise you guys can give would be greatly appreciated and my apologies for the lengthy post but this has been a very long a draining process.

Hi Guys I have an R32 GTST RB20 and want to put a RB30DET Together for it, but I want to retain the RB20 head, for wiring and not having to buy another head Will Forged Pistons from the RB25/30 Conversion kit fit with RB20 head or will pistons kiss Valves.

Wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction, have been searching for definitive answers but no luck! I have an rb2630 long engine together and I am trying to do as much of the labour myself to save coin, so right now I am trying to get all my ducks in a row before I proceed any further as don't want to purchase items I do not need or go about it all the wrong way. I guess firstly and foremost, what are the chances of this motor change being passed in QLD going into an R34 GTT? Balancer - Should I keep with a 25 balancer to make use of all the neo parts? (alternator/power steering etc) Motor Loom - What would be the best way of wiring this motor in the car (r34gtr harness/loom? or modify the neo one to suit?) Motor Sensors - Do these items have to match the engine loom/ or ecu being used? I read the 34 gtr ecu is a no go, do I need to swap out the ecu to an earlier gtr one or will the neo just work? Anyone know what year a 05u 2 gtr head is from, raw brokerage have new CAS's for 32/33gtr and good pricing, I read the 34gtr was different to the previous years. I have been in touch with some specialist wiring services on the net to make up new gtr looms if this is the best way to go (good prices too, but they not been willing to answer all my questions), but have since been advised that my abs/tcs would be hard to keep? Would this be easy to rewire to suit or is this the big decider to modify the neo loom? I know, a lot of questions here, but want to make sure I go the best direction forward, even if painful since I have committed to this now! Cheers All.

I wish to know in anyone has used these on a 30/26 combo? are the any good to start with?. The reason i ask is that i'm starting my 26/30 build and given that it is only a street application are the powerbond balancers better than a O.E.M balancer and decent enough so i dont have to shell out for a ross or ATI race balancer.

im in the process of building a 30dett for an autech stagea and i know sweet f**k all about turbos. so, im after opinions on what to use. the engine is being built as close to stock as possible and will be a daily driver and i dont intend to push it at all. angry overtaking is about the worst of it. the bottom end is a RIPS block that i picked up second hand (but never used) and its the basic block with stock internals. i dont intend to get anywhere near its full potential at this point in time. Basically, if nissan ever made an RB30dett, i want mine to be what it would have been. so, i had originally been advised to just keep standard turbos but the more i search here, the more people say its a bad idea. can anyone confirm this even in a 'stock' application? if they're no good, what would be the best replacement? i want to stay with twins (unless a single+manifold+lines would just work out cheaper/better) and again, what nissan would have fitted if they built it. would love to use stock dumps, lines, manifold if possible. next point is that im trying to keep costs down. this doesn't mean i want cheap shit that will break in 6 months, im just trying to spend as little as possible on good gear. example being new stock turbos from another car or well-known second hand items. next question is ecu. whats the best thing to run it safely and reliably? once its tuned and running happily, it will be left alone so something basic to run it but keep it alive forever would be great. advice please!

hey guys im in the works of planning a 25/34 build to go into my 34 GTT, im sourcing parts prices etc but one thing that im questioning is the neo head. Ive built a 25/30 for my 32 using a 33 series 2 head which i got the water gallery welded, and a external oil feed for the lifters is the neo head requiring the same work? im sure the water gallery has to be welded but is there anything different between a neo head opposed to the 33 head that needs to be addressed for this conversion?? thanks

can it be done or will the computer not like it and not run in properly?

I have struck a problem with my twincam build, i am doing it as per DOHC build guide but the lower tensioner mount isnt machined flat, is there a way around this? any help appreciated

got a quote for my rb25 head serviced welded vct oil hole up machined for large lift cams ,ported ,fitted with supertech 1mm oversize valves and dual valve springs ,titanumn retainers etc ,will be $2800-$3000 is this good ?

Hey everybody. I had worst luck with my build, custom ordered cp piston kit 86mm for rb30 with rb25det head. CR 10.0 :1 Well block didnt turn out to be good enough with honing only.. So i have to order a new set of pistons again, 86,5mm this time. I have to sell these pistons and i would like to know can these be fitted to normal RB25 or RB26 engine and what would CR then be? These would be easier to sell if can be fitted many engines. I tried to look calcs but Im sure somebody knows these better than me! Pin height 1.28 inch etc. just same cp piston kit than normal rb25/30 kit but with higher dome, (Don't know dome CC, doesnt say). I think i don't have the time for wait another 4 weeks for custom pistons, have to go faster way. Automotiveonline2012 has kit with 9,0:1 CR on ebay so think i go with that. Its brisbane, AUS so somebody got experience with that seller? I'm from Finland so that's why asking. Thanks advance

hey guys this build is starting to drive me crazy, im finding so many different opinions on what should be done to build a decent rb30det, i have just aquired a low k rb 30, now my plans at this stage are to fit it with acl race bearings and a decent set of rings but retain the factory na bottom end, i am a qualified mechanic so that is no issue building that... i have a 25det head which i am in the process of getting its cleaned up and freshened (recut valves, new stem seals weld vct feed etc) what i would like clarification on is what i can expect out of this setup with say a gt35r, nistune ecu, injectors to suit, decent cooler, crank collar with 25det pump and what ever else i have forgotten, bare in mind i am only a mechanic so my budget is by no means huge haha. id be absolutely stoked with a reliable 250+rwkw, and inputs would be greatly appreciated cheers guys

Being in the USA, RB30 blocks are hard as hell to get here. I found one, ordered it, freighted it, and received it. All looked great, even had the original hone marks. All was great until the timing cover was removed. My block didn't have the machined flat area for the relocated tensioner. So I came up with this idea. The plate sits where the old tensioner was located and goes across to the flat surface that the timing cover sits on. Those two surfaces are flat and level with each other. The plate bolts down to the block with the original tensioner hole and 6mm stud hole, and two new holes were drilled and tapped where the a/c compressor bolts are. The tensioner bolts down to a large washer that sits on the aluminum plate. The tensioner was machined down the thickness of the washer and the aluminum plate. See anything that might go wrong with this?

My mate has been given what looks to be a china spec blower Type: To4e Part No: T3/T4 Serial number is EM07030919 the Rb30 will get getting an over haul in the next month, is this turbo a keeper or a paper weight. Car wont see the track or drag strip

Hi guys, I've been reading over various threads but finding conflicting info and no definitive answer on this one... What is clearance like for a 25/30 in an R33? My understanding is a 25 sump, 25 inlet manifold, 25 engine mounts will drop in and fit, the bonnet will *just* close and you have no hope of running a front strut brace. Other options are re-drilling engine mounts (does the drilling happen on the block mounting face?) to lower the engine, how low can it go before hitting swaybar, will this allow a strut brace to fit, and does this angle impact much on driveline lifetime/reliability? Or, fit a greddy style forward facing plenum with stock engine mounts, will this allow a strut brace to fit? Cheers lads!

Hiya. Im chasing a Sump adaptor kit to suit a rb30/26. If some one has one in the Perth area that there not using please let me know. The Oil pickup is not required. Thanks Ph 0414341600

rb26 gtr nismo plenums, how good are they compare to factory plenum is it worth converting nismo to single throttle body thanks Paco

I already posted this in the whore thread, but I'm in a rush, and it appears that doesn't get much traffic. My apologies. Can someone please do me a kindness and post the part numbers for King Bearings RB30 main and big end STD spec bearings. ACL is out until the end of summer. Jeez. I for the life of me cannot seem to nail them down. Kings webpage is pretty convoluted . Thanks in advance. Edit: I found these if someone can confirm, that would be great: Big Ends: CR6676SI Mains: MB7008AM These also appear to be standard performance, if anyone has a line on the race series let me know.

hi, finally got the funds to build my 25/30 but my engine builder doesnt know where to drill n tap the block for the second idler (or tensioner?) can anybody who has done this conversion tell me the EXACT position of where it should go using a 152 tooth belt please?

okay ill start with what I know I'm doing ill be running a custom sump fully baffled and wing gates, head return, with an external pick up point and modify the pump for external pickup now what I'm not sure is what pump and collar to use I heard of the new nitto pump with the splines haven't heard of anyone using it on a rb30crank and well that's basically my question what pumps have people used in the 400-500kw+ range on a 25/30 I just want to know what people have used and there advice don't want to know what people have 'heard' and before anyone says to do a search I have so many times it varies so much just want a bit more info before I buy something

Hey, Mid-way through dropping an RB30DET into my R31, just wondering what O2 sensor do people use when going to a single turbo setup (GT3540) on an RB26 head? Currently have a gtr engine loom to use but not yet purchased an O2 sensor as Nissan tell me a standard GTR uses different ones on each turbo... also are they different between R32/33? I'm hoping to just run one and delete the other wiring, any help would be apprecaited asap!! Cheers, G.

ok guys i'm putting my running gear "rb30det" into my 180sx & trying to get it to sit as low as i can for clearance issues anyways i was told to use the nissan laurel engine crossmember with rb20 engine mounts & brackets? i've tried fitting the engine to the x member before putting them into the 180 but the sump seems to be hitting/sitting on the x member & the mounts wont go into place by about 2 inches. so am i using the wrong engine crossmember or engine mounts/brackets? the pictures i've attached is that the correct nissan laurel engine crossmember the seller told me is he correct? second one is of the sump hitting the crossmember!! what have people use it the past? cheers

Hi all, ive been reading about the RB30 builds for the past couple of days and one thing is really bugging me. Ive had a bunch of mixed answers regarding the crank collar. I'll be using a RB30 crank and i got a couple of brand new RB25DET oil pumps lying around, so i figured why not use one of them instead of buying an N1 pump etc. So will i need to get a collar put onto the crank? The oil pumps i have are for series 1 r33 gtst. Ive googled it several times and came up with a reply that says i wont be needing one? "The oil issues/problems were with the early R32 cranks which had a narrow oil pump drive that invariably leads to oil pump failure and major engine damage. 1993+ GTR's had this problem rectified, however since you have an RB30 crank you won't need a crank collar. Also, if you keep revs ~8K max an N1 pump will be fine." Thanks guys, im really looking for some ideas suggestions to what i should do.