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Showing results for tags 'migrate-from-242-car-detailing-paint-care'.
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Hi All Just bought a new car Toyota Prado in Crystal Pearl. Its stock standard and has no paint protection etc, I would like to perhaps apply a ceramic coating or graphene coat. I'm just a regular guy that doesn't know to much about ceramic or graphene coatings. I have had a bit of experience polishing and waxing cars years ago as well as clay baring cars. Since this car is new and the paintwork is fairly good I think it just needs a good wash and I will claybar anything I can feel on the surface. I guess my main question is where can I buy a decent commercial grade product I have seen a few on ebay etc but notice you cant actually goto a car parts store and buy anything decent just the spray on stuff. Can anyone here offer me any tips or advice on what product to get and any tips on applying it. Also while we are here what's a good brand car wash to use so far I've bought Bowdens Snow Blow and I have one of those cannon sprayers. Also chamois or no chamois? I was thinking of just using an air compressor to dry the car after washing? Thanks
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I have a red Nissan V35 that needs to have a spoiler resprayed. I am located in the western suburbs. Can anyone advise me of someone who can respray the rear spoiler? I also have a couple of other touch-ups that I might get done.
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Finally after years of owning the car, I removed the HUD display the previous owner installed. But there’s a lot of glue residue underneath. There are hundreds of products that can probably remove it like ph neutral spray cleaner, carby cleaner, contact cleaner, brake cleaner, petrol, metho, turps, bug and tar remover, goo gone etc but I don’t want to try anything because of the fear I might discolour the dash. So what do you recommend to use to remove glue and glue residue from dash without damaging it?
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Hey guys! We're Junsei Auto Parts from Sydney and we remake discontinued interior trim, 1:1 identical to OEM quality. We've been bringing back discontinued interior trim for the R32 and JZA80 Supra. So far we've remade the R32 Stereo Fascia Surround and the Dash Defrosters, pics below 👇 We're here to ask what discontinued parts do you want back? Not limited to any Skyline! Drop your suggestions and we'll see what we can do! Check out our R32 parts here: https://www.junseiautoparts.com/collections/nissan-skyline-r32
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my wife was driving my car and left the garage door open with the blistering sun beating down on it all day 😬 just below the passenger side headlight...
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Car has been running rich since previous owner, and had to gap the spark plugs down further to try and iron out a slight misfire. Possibly compounded by an ancient muffler, car gets a visible carbon build up on the rear bar after a single drive. I do my best to get as much off as possible in every wash but it's slowly built up pretty bad. Clay bar is marginal at best, but the soot does come off if I (lightly and carefully) scratch it with my nail. Can anyone recommend anything that might help get it off easily with some elbow grease? Would like to avoid anything abrasive as I'm pretty precious about my paint. Thanks in advance
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Looking for suggestions and tools/parts waxes etc on how to restore the glass inside and out for N1 headlights on my R32 GT-R right now I have them completely disassembled anything helps
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Hi Guys, Keen to hear what cleaner/degreaser people have found worked best to clean the undercarriage. Surely has to be some better products than just straight degreaser you can buy from like super cheap etc. Will be using a pressure washer as well. Thanks
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All, I have painted over years but with minimal knowledge so I am trying to up my knowledge. here are my qestions: paint procedure is as follow with points needed to be done on each stage, is that correct ? 1. Primer( if bare metal) or grit 1500 to create area for paint to stick if there is already paint. This will be 1 to 2 coat. one needs to wait 24 hours before going from primer to sanding to doing base coat. 2.Base coat, 2 to 3 coat. some say 4 to 5 coat which ? Waiting around 15 mins after each coat. 3. top coat, I don't really understand what this is, what is the top layer? 4.laccuqer or clear coat , 3 to 4 coat. around 15 to 20 mins after each coat 5.polish temperature is what is I have in garage which is around 15 to 20 degree. I have painted a metalic car using above and paint is sort of matt , is there specific laquer to be used with metallic?
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Common probably for alot of cef owners in NZ is that the left-hand passenger side vent surround for the air con vent is gone, now its hard to get ya hands on one but my question is ive seen photos of a y31 Gloria dash bored and their air con vents look pretty close to the a31 vent. Has anyone ever tried using a y31 Vent or has anyone tried anything else?
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So I just got bodywork done my car as I had rust forming near both strut towers in the engine bay. I put the strut bolts back on and it dug into the paint and now I have bare metal exposed in the engine bay. What should I use to prevent rust from forming on the bare metal? I just spent a pretty penny getting the rust taken care of and I would hate to have to take care of it again. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should use to prevent this from happening?
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Hi everyone, I'm looking at some new custom seats for my R34 GTT. I spoke with Autotechnica and they said their seat rails will not fit, waiting on a response from Velo. I don't really care on brand, I want something ADR approved though, I've heard a few whispers about needing ADR approved seat rails, is this a myth or is it true? (specifically for QLD, nothing on TMR website is vague) Anyone have a combination of seats and rules that is legal / will fit without much f**kery? Cheers! e.g some weird ebay universal seat rail that would fit autotecnica seats
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Hi All, So my black R32 used to be wrapped and we've peeled off the wrapping to find that every panel has been rubbed back with at least 800 - 1200 wet & dry - I mean there are fine scratches everywhere - and some of the paint is peeling too. (See photo) Honestly it could do with a new paint job but I dont have the dollars just yet. So a mate of mine was saying he would be surprised if the car of that vintage would actually have a clear top coat and we should just cut & polish it and it'll probably come up pretty good. Can anyone confirm if the original paint on a 1990 R32 would likely have a clear top coats and - If we were to cut & polish would it get through most of the scratches? Is there a particular type of cutting compound to use - What steps should I take? Any advice would be appreciated.
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I've used the Autoglym Wheel Protector a few times over the past 6 months or so and I'm a little on the fence with it. https://www.autoglym.com/wheel-protector My results are positive, really positive and you'll see this below. But its expensive and I think I'm using a 3rd to a half of the can with each application. I applied the protector to my passenger side only about 3 weeks ago. The first pics are after a week and ~240k's of dry driving. BMW's are notorious for brake dust so its a good car to show a comparison on.
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Hey guys, I haven't cleaned my GTR out for a while and will be doing so this weekend and was wondering what waxing compound would be good to use. I'm not after super expensive stuff just something that will give it a descent shine and will last a few weeks. Any ideas? Something simple to use without mixing with other compounds would be best. Could you please give some recommendations, where to buy it and the cost? Cheers, Alex -
Hey Everyone I write a number of articles on my facebook business page on a fairly regular basis and soon on my website to help motoring enthusiasts improve their car care techniques and overall understanding of it whilst also making them aware of what true professional detailing and paint correction done by a pro can achieve as well as respect the industry and raise the awareness of the fact that there is much more to it and it really is a highly skilled craft. There is so much more to it regardless of what some people I've met have said to me. Some crash repairers Ive met regard detailing as "takes no skill at all and is all spray and wipe" The is so far from the truth. We have to know some chemistry, understand pad technology and have knowledge of so many things and then be able to use all four types of machines and not damage anything. To give you a quick summary of my journey with detailing. I began as an enthusiast in 1991 with the purchase of my first car and really got serious about it in 1996 with my second car purchase, a 1972 Ford XA Falcon 351 Coupe In 1999 I began learning from a professional and started working for an auto dealership before starting my business in 2005 and setting up shop in the northern suburbs of Adelaide in 2007 It's been a twenty seven year journey so far but I've done cars from Aston Martin to Pagani Zonda and a lot of stuff in between including Lexus and plenty of Nissan Skylines too. I'm here not to try and sell you anything but to share some helpful information as well as learn from all of you, we can all learn from each other for sure. Everyone brings something to the table. My next one will be wax, sealants and coatings. Which ones to use on what vehicles, when and how often. That's me kneeling by the window in the Lexus of Adelaide Showroom back when the first LFA arrived. My articles can be found here. There are so many more to write and plenty more to share. https://www.facebook.com/pg/detailxsa/notes/?ref=page_internal If anyone is in Adelaide and has a midnight purple Skyline with paint in good condition I'd love to see it and give you some free advice on how to care for it I absolutely love the Nissan Skyline colours from the R32-R34 - amazing. happy detailing everyone Matt
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Hi guys I get alot of request about interstate trips ect and some for SA. So I thought I would let you all know in SA there is a detailer and friend of mine I trust 110% and reccomend you use him. details below. Hamish ph: 0433 700 139 email: [email protected] temp site: http://hamish023.imgur.com Regards, Mitch
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Title says it, I went overseas for a month and the car was left in the back yard with a tarp covering the entire car. My sister left the magnetic p plate on the back and every day the heat produced must of welded the damn thing to the boot. I've managed to get a minor part of it off on a fairly warm day. Any suggestions? Warm water? Hair dryer? Any chemicals I could use to remove it without damaging the paint? Will upload pics tomorrow Thanks in advanced
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Ever wondered what you need to wash your Skyline? here it is... Obviously this is designed for washing SKYLINES ONLY, so now you can throw away your other inferior generic car washin' sponge. Less than $3 from an elcheapo discount bargain store. Couldn't resist it!
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Day 2: This is Lyndsays Camaro (owner of the previous Landcruiser and S4). This car is still being completed and the paint is 10 years old but still in great condition, just needed a little touching up. The interior wasnt in the car so that wasnt touched. Products used: Menzerna Polishes Lake Country Pads Swissvax Waxe Bowdens Own Metal Polish OPT Tyre Bond Gel I didnt get many pictures of this and being orange was very hard to see the imperfections but I tried as you can see . The car was also washed with OPT ONR prior to correcting as it was only a little dusty. Looks shiney under shadey/light but upon closer inspection it had a fair bit of light marring and swirls that wou will see. Little Coop coming to help. Hard to see properly but can tell not the clearest reflection. Menz 85rd and LC white constant pressure Little scratch in between the two polish dots. GONE.. You can see the marring and swirls here in the concave part between the light reflecting and below see a clear line where I polished for a 50/50 Bit out of focus but you can see the 50/50 unpolished/polished here Lyndsay having a go.. All finished reflection shots and wheel dish polished. Hope you guys enjoyed. More of the trip coming Regards, Mitch
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Hey guys, So I have a 2000 model gtt imported from japan in 06 I think it was. The paint is in bad shape. It looks fine to my eye but when you run your hand over the roof it feels close to fine sand paper (even after a polish). Not good at all! The doors and bonnet arent as bad but still aren't as good as I'd like. It also has a few spots of imperfections, as in scratches and smudge things that auto gylm polish wont get it out . So it needs a cut! I'm not confident on doing it myself, because ive never done it and don't want to experiment on my skyline. So I figure next time I want it polished I'll take it to a detailer. Just wondering if I'd be better off getting one of those clear coats, and wondering what that involves, would it get cut the sprayed or just sprayed over the old paint?? Do you guys think this would be the best way to go??
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I have some pretty nasty water stains on my headliner, Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove these without causing damage to the fabric/adhesive?
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25% Off Sale On All Aquatouch Microfibre
Antonio_Waxit posted a topic in Exterior & Interior Styling
To celebrate the new Waxit Car Care website we are offering 25% off all Aquatouch Microfibre this weekend starting today. Make sure to use coupon code MF25SALE when checking out. Keep an eye on our BLOG section on the site or at our facebooksite. Offer end Monday 19/11/2011. -
need your help fellas! Looking to purchase a polisher, deciding between the GEX125 AC Pro and 150T. i know the 150 has a polisher setting, but between the two models the specs looks around the same. i was thinking the 125 would be better for the tighter spaces when polishing. What are your guys opinions? Thanks in advance!
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Day 1 of work Part 2: After the cruiser was done it was onto the Audi S4, this was a beautiful car with plenty of go aswell as Lyndsay showed me. This car is once again a regular driver so perfection wasnt the plan but as close as possible was to bring it up better.......let it be said IMO we werent far of perfection though! Products used were: Bowdens Body Gel for washing and foaming Bowdens Clay bar for decontamination with OPT ONR for lube Bowdens Own Vinyl Care Bowdens Own Naked Glass Bowdens Own Leather Love Zaino Z-10 Leather Conditioner Vikan Brushes Menzerna Polishes Bowdens Own Body Cleanser Lake Country Pads Swissvax Waxes OPT Tyre Bond Bowdens Own Metal Polish I didnt take many pictures of the interior as it was pretty clean already, and forgot to keep taking pictures of the correction stages although it is hard to see swirls with this paint due to the heavy metallic as you will see. Plenty of Kamikazi Bugs! Brake dust on Brake dust soon to come off with the thanks of Iron-X Bowdens Own Body Gel mixed 1:10 in the foam lance works well! Hello marring Good bye marring! BAHH!!! swirls galore! Thats better, not perfect but a fair improvement! After machining with Menz 106 on white using the Flex 3401 followed with 85rd on black. Topped with Swissvax Shield a favorite of mine! and some finished reflection shots. Hope you guys enjoyed my first day in Perth, I didnt take as many pics of jobs I wanted due to forgetting but am doing another trip in Dec and will remember then Following days to come! including R33 GTR, Pontiac Firebird, Chev Chevelle, and some other! Regards, Mitch
