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Showing results for tags 'migrate-from-53-naturally-aspirated-performance'.
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Hello lads, a naïve p-plater here. I've had an unholy thought of swapping the rb25 for a barra once it goes out (whenever that happens, sitting on 215k atm, i know these engines are resilient). Has this been done before? Any tips or should i steer clear and buy a gtt, cheers
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I know this question has probably been asked a million times before but, What upgrades can I do to my rb20de neo I'm having a hard time finding forums and helpful information on the topic. Ill start off with some few things first. NO I do not want to swap the motor I do not care if its a performance motor or not or if the turbo motors are faster I'm at that understanding and I'm completely disregarding it. For anyone who knows and can help me thanks in advance
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Alright, I've held off from posting this because it doesn't seem to make any sense and I know it's a topic that was beat to death and back two decades ago and then again after that. I have an AWD 23U block from an ENR34 that was NA from the factory. I'm rebuilding it with a turbo NEO head and ARP studs to sell it on so I can move on to a different engine build, and I'm stumped on the oil feed. Conventional logic, as I understand it, is that the NA blocks are tapped for the oil feed from the factory, but don't drilled through into the passage. This block seems to have a small hole withing the M12 threaded hole that goes fairly deep into the block material. So it would seem at a glance to be done in this application. Only, this engine has never been turbocharged, and I didn't remove a plug from this hole when tearing it down. Does the hole need to go even further than the depth I've shown here with the drill bit? Am I missing something?
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Im just starting out as a mechanic so im very new to modifying cars but i have a Enr34 and im looking to get more power out of it without adding a turbo could someone suggest some modifications to it that could help it i already have a catback straight pipe and hks cold air intake
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I'm just curious as to what extractors are best for my rb25de neo, power gains, responsiveness, and sound. -
Hey guys So I am currently on my P plates in QLD and am driving an R33 Rb20de. I would like to know if it is possible to convert from NA to turbo whilst still remaining P plate legal and if so how to go about doing it. Any help is greatly appreciated. thx
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So I bought my n/a 33 without a sway bar.. went to install one and the aftermarket resonator was in the way so decided my easiest way around that is to get a staight pipe welded on to fit the sway bar.. once that was done the exhaust became extremely raspy or rattley driving around 3k-5k so decided to get a new resonator installed a little closer to the motor only by about 10 inches but I figured the exhaust would go back to how it was with the new resonator but hasn’t is there anything I’m missing here because I’m really sick of the way it sounds what else can I do
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Hey guys! So I am currently working on my new project which is an auto r33 gts with a yucky rb20e inside of it. I was looking at a couple of options to do an engine swap. I have a choice to go with an rb25de or an rb20de (as am currently still on p plates in QLD) If i am to go with the rb20de option i would like to look at going turbo in the near future as it will still remain p plate legal. I would like to know what is required to swap for both engines and would like to know your personal thoughts on what I should do. all help is much appreciated thank you!!!
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Is there anything wrong with building an n/a rb25 neo?
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Unsure if this is the right forum to post under.. I'm looking for opinions on whether I would be better to go 20de +T or put a 25 cam into it? My friends said 25 cam, I personally want a turbo but can't do both due to high compression? This probably makes no sense. (Sorry) just very confused.
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Let me first start off by saying I am in America. I tracked the sedan for the first time and need one new rear rotor and possibly two fronts. It is a series 1 RB25DE, and has 4x114.3 (4 stud) bolt pattern. I have been searching for these parts all morning and have had very little luck. I have brand new pads all around, but that site I buy from does not carry rotors. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
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Hey people, I was doing my brake pads on my 33 today, to only reach the rear brakes and have 1 slider bolt snap on me on the rear left side and another one seized to the hell on the rear right side. Im after neither a new calliper mounting bracket for the rear left, an entire complete bracket and calliper for the rear left or replacement slider bolts. As this is my daily driver, I cannot make it to work till I’ve fixed the issue. So just reaching out here for some help. As I don’t have a lot of time or funds to go with a turbo brake conversion right now. Plus if anyone has any ideas on other Skyline callipers that will go straight on my 33 GTS25, this would be great. Apologies if this has been covered already, but in a pickle and really need help to get this sorted. I’m based in Melbourne Cheers
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Hello, I just got my first skyline here in Japan. I got an HR34 the has 70k kms on it, Rb20de neo. I'm doing my timing belt and waterpump in a month or so. I've seen threads tackling this topic but haven't found a clear answer. My goal is to have a reliable 250-300hp build, I know it can be achieved a lot easier taking the turbo route. I really want it to stay NA but am also torn between going turbo. I haven't done anything for now. I just want to know what steps to take. And no, I don't want to swap in an SR20, nor an Rb25.
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Posting in this section as the engine is currently DE. Wondering if anyone has gone down the path of lowering comp by simply adding a slightly thicker HG. I can't seem to find info on ratios for different size HG's As I'm sure we all know - De -10.1 Det- 9.1 I'm looking to get close to that ratio and yes I know there are conflicted opinions on just whacking in a thicker gasket
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Hey guys just joined, been using the page for awhile very helpful thanks. As title states unsure if power figures are low or normal/expected. I've had my head rebuilt (will post Pic of cam specs) camtech cam, 1mm oversized stainless steel valves, Port & polished, new lifters, cracked tested, match ported manifold etc. Stock bottom end Bolted everything together took it in for a nistune and dyno tune, had a few minor issues. He finished the tune ended up with 108kW and around 240nm. Just thought it would produce more kW with the head work. Mods: rebuilt head, match ported manifold, 6-3-1 extractors 2.25inch straight though, believe hifow cat, nistune, k&n podfilter Thank you
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Hi guys I need info on where to ground this one. Pictures attached It would be nice if you could post a picture yourself so I can see exactly I have to put this bastard
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Hey again. So I currently have a standard RB30 fan and it is crazy loud. I've heard that the design of the RB25 fan is superior and runs a lot quieter. I am just wondering if the RB25 fan and fan clutch will bolt right up and fit without modification at all?
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Hey guys I'm having an issue with my monster ? .. My r32 had a rb20de auto in it and the rb20de died. I sourced a cheap s2 rb25de auto from a stagea. Also got a s2 rb25de loom and ecu from an auto stagea as well (grey plug but non neo). Matted 25 to the auto box and put it in the car. I used the stagea loom and ecu and wired water temp, tachometer, fuel pump, ign and constant power where needed. Turn the key dash lights come on, fuel pump primes and turns off then I go to start and NOTHING! Starter motor doesn't even try to start. It's as if the inhibitor is stopping it (e.g in gear and not in park or neutral) Checked relay and it works fine. Checked fuses had one popped replaced it still nothing. Checked starter and it seems fine also. So I'm Wondering where to start looking now as I've been at it for the last week with no progress ( I just want it running!!) Is there a way to bypass the auto system so starter will work? (Tried the manual conversion inhibitor trick that didn't work ). Would I need to make a wire from the neutral switch pin on the ecu to the neutral switch on the auto box to make it start? Any help would be much appreciated. Also thinking of pulling out my ecu and engine loom (r33 s2 loom and ecu) that is in my r32 coupe as my coupe runs and starts 1st pop but it's manual so may run into the same issue.
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my r34 gtt have some problems im trying do solve these There is no abs working and no tcs and the ecu tells me there are no errors. But the car doesnt shut down throttle even if it slips what could it be?
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Hello guys, first time poster here. I am looking to get a bit more noise out of my 31. Previous owner fitted a GTS2 2.25" exhaust from catback after upgrading the exhaust in their GTS2. I want to get a bit more noise out of it, but also not insanely loud. The current setup is like so: [Headers]======<CAT>======[Muffler]===========[Muffler/Tip]= I was thinking of adding a Magnaflow rear muffler with dual tips on to the current system. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0H0AAOSwrklVJVNc/s-l500.jpg Or would it be better to do a centre muffler delete and replace the rear muffler with the Magnaflow. [Headers]======<CAT>=================[Muffler/Tip] Current rear tailpipe/muffler is like so: http://i.imgur.com/foSPz6Lh.jpg
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Hey guys i got a 370gt v36 skyline im about to install a exhaust system and a cold air intake, not too interested in forced induction at this point but ive heard about ecu performance chips and then getting a dyno tune or something? Can anyone shed some light on this for me and steer me in the right direction as im not all too familiar with this kind of stuff.
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Hi all, I have been trying to find out if any of the Infiniti G37 coupe parts available in the US are in any way compatible to the Nissan Skyline CKV36? The main difference between the two is obviously the Left and Right and drive of each vehicle, but can a (for example) cat back exhaust for a G37 coupe fit on a V36 coupe? Or are intake filters the same.... I have no idea if the steering rack would interfere with intake or exhaust if using parts designed for a G37, to be fitted to a V36. Any one else thinking the same?? The prices in the states are pretty damn good!! Cheers, Rob
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P plater, skyline, yep, expecting a whole heap of flaming but whatever. Coming back home the other night from Eastern Creek my brother (of 28) notices that he doesn't like the way my clutch seems to be acting, he asks if he can take the car for a spin and find the issue. Well, not really expecting it my brother off of first gear (first time driving my car) is hitting 8krpm, fine, whatever, it is late at night but if you must... He is really thrashing the car and I have no f**king idea what is happening (he has more experience so obviously he knows what he is doing) But sitting at 60k's in 2nd with his foot down he starts pumping the clutch really quickly, now to my knowledge, this is not very advisable, heat and whatnot, let alone some damage... He thrashes the absolute shit out of it for about another 5 minutes before we arrive home where he tells me there is minor slippage and my clutch is actually sitting too high. The next morning I've gone and started my car, like usual, taken off down the street, 1st gear, no problem, 2nd gear, car is revving and not getting much power (clutch is slipping right?) Now to add on all of this, my clutch was very very very barely slipping prior to this and I'm not that thrashy with the clutch at all (Dumped it 5 times in 6 months). Did my brother screw my clutch? Also, I've been hearing Exedy HD clutches would be good quality? Any advice on the situation and suggestions please.
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hey guys was wondering can a driveshaft from a 4door r33 gts work on a 4door r32 gts.
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R34 N/a 4Dr Exhaust Recommendation?
Myfine Skyline R34! posted a topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Ok guy's I have a R34 n/a 4 door & so far I have a few options in mind for an exhaust system & just want to know what your opinions are on them based from experience? Option: 1 I spoke to Lambros @ Hitech mufflers (Darlinghurst) & he said he can do me a full stainless steel system (bar the headers...pointless) 2.5" with a high flow cat mandrel bent and so on for $1200. Option: 2 I've also spoken to Pete @ Kirrawee mufflers & he said he can do me a full stainless system (using mostly x-force parts) with a high flow cat 2.5" for $1000. Option: 3 And lastly I looked @ exhaust systems from just jap and noticed the Fujitsubo Legalis R system they have for a 4dr, and It looks the goods.. Can anyone verify that? it's going for $1199. Your thoughts are appreciated Cheers.
