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Showing results for tags 'migrate-from-81-other-nissan-imports'.
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Hey guys is there anyway of knowing how many r33 skylines were built with a factory tow bar? Dad has a r33 coupe factory rb25det manual and has a factory tow bar confirmed through gtr registry that it was ordered that way from the factory And is on the build sheet. It's kind of weird was wondered how many were ordered like this.
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Hey all, I'm currently having issues with my external Wastegate Spring. I am Currently running a stock 7 pound spring in my HKS External Wastegate. I believe it to be a Standard HKS External Wastegate but cant find anything anywhere to help me source out a correct spring. My reasoning for this being that my previous wastegate diaphragm tore and I was in need of a new one so I came to this Site seeking help and what would you know, I was sent in the right direction to purchasing a replacement. I ordered a "HKS STANDARD WASTEGATE REPLACEMENT PARTS - DIAPHRAGM" from RHD Japan and due to the "Standard" one being a perfect replacement I'm currently under the assumption that this is the name my one goes by as the only other one I can find is the GT II. I recently purchased a 0.6 to 1 Bar Spring from RHD Japan. I purchased their "HKS GT WASTEGATE SPRING - WHITE BLUE" thinking that it would suit my Wastegate as at the very least it is just labeled a "GT" and not "GT II" which can see a photo of on their website and confirm that they are not the same, but I could not have been more wrong. Below are some photos of my current Wastegate, Wastegate Spring and the new Wastegate GT Spring I purchased If anyone could please help me with any sort of information on where or how to get a spring more suited for my application without changing wastegates would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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i have a c34 20e auto laurel that runs and drives well but around 60-70ks a god awful sound starts and doesn’t go away until i slow back down to 50ks. sounds like a really high pitched squeel. sounds like it’s coming from the dash or the break booster? breaks work fine and I disconnected the dash cluster to see if it went away but it did not. Sprayed crc on everything, checked all my belts and pullys for play. Doesnt use fluids so not sure where to look next. Thinking it could be something in the dash sounds alot louder than a sqeeky belt and closer but not sure what it could be any ideas? I have had a similar sound coming from a skyline dash that had a broken rev gauge but not as loud. Its a constant squeal doesn't get louder and is painfully loud
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Which turbo's are you guys running on your sr20det's? Im looking at the: -GARRETT GT2871R (0,64AR) - $1350 -GARRETT GT2560R - $1050 -GARRETT GBC22-350 - $850 Im curious about the GBC22-350, anyone tried it? I currently have a built sr20det (top (cams, springs, solid lifters etc) and bottom(rods, pistions, coated bearings, headgasket and main/head studs)) but dont wanna run any crazy numbers, only safe numbers to get the car running again. I also dont wanna break the gearbox since i will be running the standard gearbox (5speed). -
Hi ther have an r32 rb20det engine, now have a hose running under intake and beside thermostat have plugged in the long hose running from firewall side, also plumbed the smaller port which was under it, as old engine was like that, now back toward the firewall have plugged I the shorter hose from firewall side, but am left with another plug that is a coolant/water hose, just wanting to get an idea of what it could be and where to plug it, will upload photos, cheers heaps team 🤘
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Hi Guys, I am getting a spare FOB Key from Nissan in Japan through a friend. But Nissan Tokyo wanted me to get a code from the car. Nissan Dealership said if they get the code, it has to be used within 10mins (Don't know why or how that is possible). After which I'll have to pay them additional $150 to program the key once received. Long story short, my friend visited Nissan in Tokyo and was able to get the location of the code from the car, which is on the cylinder of key hole on Driver side, which can only be accessed by removing the door panel. I have only seen a bolt in the door opener area, and in the process snapped my Wood trim. Has anyone here removed the door panel of same car before or know how to remove it so I can get access to the key cylinder to get the code, please? Thanks. -
Hey guys I’m looking at running my rb 180sx on e85 I’ve got all the ethenol rated lines to run the fuel but I was wondering if the factory 180sx fuel tank can run e85. I’ve hear a bunch of different thing like steel tanks can’t hold e85 but I’ve also heard things like aluminium tanks can’t hold it either. I’ve contacted a company about one of there fuel tank dealing products and they said that almost all of the fuel tank dealers on the market don’t work . any help would be greatly appreciated cheers
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What do you think? Is this the OEM S15 differential or NISMO one? The number someone wrote on diff housing tells that it is Nismo one but inside it looks like just a oem s15?
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Hey guys, this is my first post on these forums. So I’m building a rb25det and I have an aftermarket billet intake with a 90mm throttle body. Iv mocked it all up and the TPS hits the fuse box. I’d rather not relocate the fuse box so Iv noticed that I am able to rotate it 90 degrees. Will this effect performance in anyway? Cheers
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Dear folk I couldn't locate a subforum for Nissan Pulsar 2005 N16 1.8L One bulb for HVAC Control burn out where can I find the replacement ? The light bulb similar to this one https://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184595 Genuine one might be (not sure) pricey if so are there after market one Thx -
ADM S14 central locking remote replacement
hanson933 posted a topic in General Automotive Discussion
Hi! Like the title says, I need a new central locking remote for my 95 ADM S14. The old unit stopped workin ages ago and I don't currently have access to it to find a part number or anything (left it at my ex's house) Anyone know a way I could track one down? I was quoted roughly $200+ by my local Nissan dealer -
Hi guys I have a 1999 Silivia Spec R (JDM) and have noticed it has a GT badge underneath the side indicator on the fender. I’ve searched my VIN number on this website http://gtr-registry.com/en-s15-silvia-200sx.php and it comes up as a Silvia Spec-R aero with interior Z:(orange) As far as I knew I thought only the late ADM models come in a spec r GT so I’m not sure if it’s normal for my JDM Silvia to have that badge. Any info would be greatly appreciated I’m still a s-chassis noob haha. Thanks
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Just wondering if it’s legal, crashed my NA r33 and just need a new shell but can only find Turbo ones -
Hi guys. I wasnt sure where to post this. I have a gtr r32 and owned it for 19 years now. I bought it in 1999 and it was a Personal import in 1998. I was wondering if I can find the records and maybe the person who imported it ? Cheers !
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Hi guys, new to this kind of forum thread dealio, couldnt find it on google so i was wondering what kind of retail price an R32 GTS25 coupe might be in QLD? im on P plates (greens in feb)so im chasin the ol' non turbo ya feel me. also would i be better off importing one or hunting around local? not sure what kind of pricing it would be to import from japan?? I was thinking maybe 10k might do me right if im buying local? thanks for any help in advance
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I Want to buy Nissan LEAF Drive Zero Car Because I love there shape but I don't Know more about there features, Car Specifications, I want to know things about Nissan LEAF Drive Zero.. Can there help me regarding that some??
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Hi all, hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have a 99 N15 sss hatch that has started making a strange squeak or squeal from the rear somewhere but only in reverse?? It doesn’t happen straight away but after 2 or 3 meters, for instance when reversing out of a car park. I’ve had a quick look under can’t see anything jumping out at me disks and pads look fine just thought someone may have come across this before. Cheers
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Need some advice, I'm going turbo kit on my N/A engine, and have a good engineer to mod plate it in Brisbane. However, he has mentioned that he does not have the equiptment to perform and certify emissions and noise. Can anyone lead me to somewhere that can/will do that for me? Does every dyno shop have the ability to certify emissions and noise? Is there a place main raods use for testing and certification? Any leads/advice appreciated
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I’ve had these wheels for a while, and I think it’s time to give them a freshen up. I want to fully disassemble each wheel to clean and possibly paint. They are 3-piece wheels so the whole thing is held together by about 40 nuts and bolts all the way around the wheel. The thing is that it is impossible to get a Allen key to fit into the bolt because of its location (see pics). There are nuts on the other side of the wheel and I can get a spanner on them and break them loose. But as soon as the broken loose it just starts to spin, you have to have a Allen key on the other side to stop the bolt from just spinning. obviously, there’s some way to get them apart but I feel like I’m just missing something.
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Hey guys my mums car has been siting for 2 years and we are trying to get it going but when the key is turned to accessories there is a buzz noise the catalytic converter overheat comes on and the starter motor won’t work or even make a noise. We have checked all the fuses the battery is new and the engine isn’t seazed
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This happened today while driving, all of the dashboard lights suddenly came on and the car stopped running/lost power. I pulled over and restarted the car and things seemed OK so I continued driving. The same thing happened about 10 minutes later except this time my radio turned on an off too. No other issues before this. I'm thinking maybe it's a battery issue? Any ideas? -
G’day boys!! I have decided to take on a hobbie and try and rebuild a RB20DET haha I’m as useless as tits on a bull right now I need help on getting my crank pulley off not the bolt got that off but the flog is locked on still any suggestions?
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Hello all, I've been contemplating about putting a red top Barra engine into a R32 gtst coupe to make it a good reliable weekend warrior drift car and a daily driver at the same time. That's why I am here to ask some questions and learn from yall. Since the Barra makes a lot more torque even in stock form, should I use a stronger diff from other brands or will a Nismo 2 way LSD do just fine? Also what axles would you recommend? (preferably if the items are compatible with the R32 without a lot of fabrication) I've heard the Barra comes with a T56 manual 6 speed gearboxe, does the shifter still sit at the OEM location as the R32 original one? In terms of the Barra engine itself I've done some research and learned that you need to address the valve springs and change to billet oil pump gears and so on, more suggestions will be appreciated as I want to learn as much as possible! (I am most likely going to go about 550whp/410kw and keep the power at that level, not chasing too much power.) Also here is one big question: How much kg does the Barra long block itself weight? I've been searching on the internet and couldn't seem to find a confident answer. I want to know this because I want the car to have good handling, some people say the Barra is heavier than a RB30, some people say its actually lighter than both a JZ or RB, if anyone here has measured a Barra long block on a scale please let me know ? If there are more things that I should look into please feel free to add ? Thanks in advance!! ?
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Hey guys, I was about to run some fuel pump wiring and came across this. There is oil covering the entire floor under the carpet and it goes all the way to the back seats. Strange part is the firewall is completely dry, it is only on the floor pan. It’s as if someone has deliberately covered the floor with oil, has anyone seen something like this before?
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Soo, looking to re engine an S15 with an RB 26 coupled to an R33 gearbox and drive train. I know S15's have had their RB20DET coupled to an R33 g'box using an adapter plate. The 26 won't need a plate, so I was wondering if it was pretty much a drop in bolt up situation. Anyone have any experience with this conversion? Tardo
