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Showing results for tags 'neo'.
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Hello. Was wondering if the RB25 crank shafts were same/similar across the range? What are the differences? I couldn’t find a definitive answer, and have a Neo series motor and needed a new crank. I can find plenty for sale but obviously want to make sure there isnt any difference between one from say an R33, and my current one Also out of curiosity, is there a difference between the RB25DET blocks themselves from an R34 and R33?
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Freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo, all done by the one shop except for the machining, so the reassembly/rebuild, bed in on the dyno, and final tune. So far have done just under 1000kms since getting it back, and then this tick started happening. Was a bit quieter the other day when it started, took it to the shop to have a look, was told it was likely the VCT gear had shit itself because of where the tick was situated, and to take it home, i drove home cautiously and havent driven it since, but started it up today and it was suddenly louder and more rattly. The shop is taking it back later this week to see what the go is, has anyone else had a ticking like this? Sounds like its in the head, the spun bearing it had before getting rebuilt was a deeper knock and definitely down in the bottom if the engine, different to this, its alot higher pitched Thanks in advance people! IMG_0302.mov
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Gentlemen, I present for you a mystery. The short version is; The tank of Shell 98 that I used last week, pretty much right from the beginning of the tank, until I filled it back up on Wednesday, ran really high EGT and in a really odd way. About 450km of this behaviour. I have EGT probe installed through a hole in the top of the turbine housing. Has been there for years. I'm very familiar with what sort of EGTs the car makes. It will settle to <400°C at idle. It will run at ~500-600°C just driving around. It will run >800°C when stomping it hard or driving it fastish up a steep hill. All normal. When it has had a problem in the past (like a bad batch of fuel I had once that caused it to detonate), the temperatures would go spastically high under load, as you'd expect when it's detonating. Last week, it would run up to 900-1000°C at odd times. Sitting at the lights it would continually climb until it got up there. Driving around it would do it. Stomp on it a bit and it would sometimes stay high, sometimes it would settle back to the ~600-700°C territory you might expect. It would also sometimes run normal EGT and sometimes idle down to the <400°C I like to shut it down at. Other times after pulling up to park it, the EGT would just continue to rise through 800°C. I must stress that I did not hear it ping at all. It also felt very normal. It drove the same, it idled at 600rpm, it was just as fast. It wasn't as if it was running a blocked injector and missing some of its fuel, etc etc. As soon as I put 50+ litres of fresh fuel in it, the car went 100% back to normal. So, theories on what would cause it to happen on a single tank of fuel? What could possibly be wrong with the fuel that would make the car seem normal in all other respects but run such high and odd EGTs? Back story on the fuel. I pretty much only use Shell 98, in Adelaide. Occasionally it gets BP98, but I can tell there is a tiny difference in how well it runs, so choose Shell. I use a number of Shell stations and maybe 10-20% of the time I use the one at Golden Grove. This tankful came from GG. The replacement tankful came from the Shell on Churchill Rd. I have occasionally been suspicious of the operation of the engine after fills at GG. Some fluffiness at idle, maybe some pinging (in fact, I think the tank that caused it to ping like a meth addict last year came from there). That sort of stuff. But only vague suspicions, nothing quite as convincing as last week. Has anyone else had a weird result from there, or any other servo in particular?
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Hey guys. Need to get the head machined, as a leak down test showed some major leaking coming from the exhaust valves in cylinders 5 and 6. Im looking at upgrading the cams, valve springs, and they will replace the usual little bits and pieces as part of a head refurbishment. Any other things I should do while the heads off?
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So I'm in process of building my 34gtt Will be aiming for about 500kw atw Have not spared a dollar on set up going full nitto forged bottom, g30-900, plazmaman manifold fmic, 1650cc Bosch (a lot more but you get the idea with my list) At what stage do you get an oil cooler and is it necessary or a wank factor? Car will be mainly street, occasional roll race and very occasional circuit Do they really make a difference? I will be sporting restrictors, head drain, nitto pump, baffled extended sump with high flow pick up and baffled cam covers TIA -
Have had a sort of ticking noise coming from my engine for a while, hasn’t gotten any worse/louder but just trying to figure out what it is? Originally thought lifters but now possibly injectors? If anyone has anymore info let me know!! I have an RB25DE Neo, sound seems like it’s coming from more of the front end. Thank you! IMG_6417.MOV IMG_6419.MOV IMG_6420.MOV
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Hey all. I know there is a plethora of information about Hypergear turbos on these threads, with Tao providing a heap of Dyno results. I was looking at Hypergear's ATR45-SAT (Special application turbocharger) as it will directly bolt on to my existing setup, with some basic fabrication/relocation of some intake piping, and will suffice for my 300-350rwkw power figure I am after with my current setup for street use. Only thing is he doesnt provide any specs from what I can see on the size of the housings, or any sizings of inlets/outlets, which I thought would be basic information you would provide there for your customers to see when deciding to choose your product, like other turbo sellers do. Has anyone got some of their own feedback and dyno results on that specific turbo? Was also looking at Kinugawa turbos that were a direct bolt on, and had heard good things about them, I dont think theyre as popular as they used to be, but has anyone had one recently theyve purchased and used? Any other recommendations with reasoning as to why they went with it?
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Ok here’s a list of exactly what I’ve done for my r33 neo. This is whilst retaining all r33 bolt ons, plenum, oem coilpacks with the loom, injectors & rail with the loom using a s2 R33 rb25 engine loom and starter motor loom. comtinues to turn really strong, but no firing up. Fuel pump works fine -changed plug for o2 sensor to suit neo -changed vct solenoid plug to suit neo -extended the TPS plugs to reach neo throttle body -reversed cas -variable air control intake solenoid valve plug changed to suit neo & canister purge control valve plug to suit neo That’s about it. IGN relay is there, ecu is in, white thing is plugged in I’m pretty sure it’s in properly.
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Hi, after a r34 rb25det neo engine complete with all bolt ons, wiring loom and ecu. the lower the km and unmodified the better. Prefer for it to be in Melbourne for inspection and pickup. Thanks
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Hey guys. first of all i would like to say sorry if i have put this post in the wrong place, this is my first post. i have bought this r34 NA and all the vacuum lines are disconnected. im having trouble finding pictures or diagrams of the vacuum lines for a NA rb25de neo. does any one have a diagram or pictures of theirs please?
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Hi guys - Apologies if this is the wrong section So recently had my R34 GTT tuned running an RB25DET neo. Tuner said that at around 5000rpm he can hear a noise when listening in through the knock sensor. The ECU is picking it up as knock sometimes but it isn't actually knock. He said its almost a metal-on-metal sounding noise, and it starts at 5000rpm and dissapears at 5.5 every single time. Cannot hear it from outside the car, only when listening in through the knock sensor. I'm hoping for some help in narrowing down what it is. My dyno numbers are perfectly fine (will upload the sheet later tonight), power curve is stable etc. He believes it is something harmonic related as it is only at that RPM range. Have done runs with VCT disabled and it still makes it so that is not the culprit. He has suggested to me that it may be the intake cam gear although he's very rarely heard of them failing. My issue is they are a stupidly expensive part to replace for a "potential" fix. His other suggestions have been potential scoring on the cam lobes. Have you guys got any input on this? So noise starts every single run at basically dead on 5000rpm, stops at 5500. Almost a really fast " drdrdrdrdrdr" noise (best way i can describe it). One other thought by him was potentially a lifter. Unsure if this matters, but the car's running an S2 RB25DET neo, nistune ECU, 14psi boost, front mount, full exhaust, cold air intake. Car is also only 104,000kms. Car still drives perfectly fine and would have had no idea anything was making noise had he not told me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Good news! my neo 33 is alive. As of a month ago and as everyone knows, when something’s done, something follows. i got my neo started, it randomly died etc. realised the afm wires weren’t even wired so I rewired and now she runs, no dying etc. next step: she’s randomely revving up by itself, my aac valve is wired, so what’s the go?? Cheers fellas. ps, my cas was on the wrong angle Aswell and I’ve changed it back to the angle before I pulled it off and haven’t started her yet since to test, will update on this.
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Hey everyone, for the life of me i cant find a diagram for a rb26det neo. I have noticed im missing this vacuum line and i cannot find where it is meant to go. Thank you
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Hey guys i made a post in the past about a strange noise my motor has been making on the dyno. It is only heard through the knock sensor when listening in to it, and starts bang on 5krpm and stops around 5.5k every run without fail. Almost sounds like a very fast ‘ddrrddrrddrrddrr’ (best way i can describe the noise on here). Cannot be heard just listening normally. The ECU is picking this noise up and pulling timing occasionaly because of it, but me and my tuner are stumped as to what it is. It appears to be coming from somewhere in the head area of the motor (at least thats what it sounds like). I’m coming here to look for advice on where to look. The cambelt has just been done with all new pulleys is etc, and has been done properly as I was lead to believe that could be a potential culprit. Disabling the VCT does not affect it, noise is there whether that is on or not. Has anyone else had experience with this or any advice on what it could be? Tuner is thinking it may be my intake cam gear, but has never heard of them failing before. Should also add compression is fantastic on all 6 cylinders, and car only has 105,000kms. Any advice and input is much appreciated!
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Hello, Ive just completed my Rb25det neo swap into my r32. Its having a miss on idle, I get RB's dont idle great anyway but i just wanted to get an idea on what might be causing it. Below vid sounds a bit like my car (but isnt my car) My engine is fully stock, just front mount and a walbro fuel pump. I have a cheap FPR I'll chuck in to make sure its not getting too much fuel. I have only done one pull since the swap and it felt ok, I just wanted to make sure it was safe before I take it for a proper drive. Cheers
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Hi my current power F.C. map is for a basic setup including a hks2530 on a rb25 neo. Was mapped to 1.3 bar with usual supporting mods, intercooler, r35 injectors, stock afm etc etc. with a conservative road map the car is away at my mechanics getting a new setup fitted, gtx3076 gen2, 6 boost top mount, turbosmart external gate, stock plenum remains in place. I will plug the standard afm back in, would this be ok to limp back to my home with keeping below 2500rpm and no heavy throttle? i will map it from home with a friend and change to a z32 afm then Next part of my topic its a unopened neo run on 98 ron. Not after lots of power, about 1.4 bar max would be my intended boost, would that be safe enough? I don’t want to risk the engine to much few pics of the fabricators work, I know i expect to hear should have ditched the plenum and throttle body and stuff, but at the lower power goal at this stage it will be fine, next year I may add a head gasket and studs etc, at that point I’ll privably change the plenum thanks all
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While installing the exhaust one i didnt notice that the lobes where in the wrong position so the last one was under pressure and it snapped.... f**k me Now im trying to see how to replace it. i cant seem the find the exhaust only poncam. RB25 Neo, 260 dur poncam type B 9.15 mm lift. All the ones im finding as a single cam are the procams, can i actually replace my broken poncam with a procam with the same duration and lift without issues? or is there something different? i keep reading the poncam is adjusted to stock timing etc but i dont see that on the procam so its kind of confusing.
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Hey guys, im fairly new to the forums but i had a brand new Gates Timing Belt and water pump kit with all seals and gaskets needed todo the job. I paid 360$ with shipping around a year back for the kit, but i never got around to needing to use it as i barely drive my r34. I have attached a picture for you to see, Item:Gates Timing Belt+Water Pump Kit Location: Western Sydney Price: $340 O.N.O(On Negotiable Offer) This kit suits rb25det engines and as far i am aware it fits rb26 as well but confirm with a professional before purchasing. Make me an offer as i need cash and dont need this lying around. -
Hi experts, My timing belt on my 34 GTT slipped mid-freeway driving due to a coolant leak somewhere, and I've bent the valves. My mechanic is still in the process of assessing damage and cost i.e repairable, machining etc but I'm probably up for 1.5 to 3k total. There was mention of valve repair depending on hydraulic or mechanic which was the real dollar figure affecting factor. What advice I'm after is, is it worth spending the money to have the motor repaired that's clocked 212,000k (and obviously plugging the leak) or investing the money in another motor, and if so, another DETNEO if they are easy to find or something else? The car is a daily, I was working towards saving for a little daily shitbox, then this happened. Whats likely the best course of action here? Serious answers would be appreciated, in a bit of a serious situation. I'm no expert, I have a general understanding of my car, which is why I seek the advice of experts such as yourselves. Thanks, Mike -
This is a story of how I became broke It all started with a text. " is this this what you've been looking for? One just got dropped of here at the scrap yard!" Meet "Pidge" my 92 240sx coupe junk yard save. The backstory on the car is apparently it was some kids project back in the early 2000 that they had lost interest in after blowing the stock ka24de (you'll see the window in the side of block later on ) and had just left it in their mothers backyard when they left and moved off to college. Well I guess the mother was cleaning her property to get it ready to sell and had dropped it off at the scrap yard a few towns over where I have a friend that works. So instead of letting the scrap yard buy and crush it, he paid her cash for the car so it wouldn't be scrapped and texted me knowing damn good and well he'd be able to make a buck or two off of me. The car its self wasnt in the worst condition it sat as high as most trucks out here in east texas and aside from the silvia front end conversion, and backyard straight pipe exhaust job the car was stock. Which for me was the perfect starting platform. That gave me the a fresh start. Minus the headlights no wiring was hacked up everything was there I could of very easily just pulled the blown ka put a fresh motor in and it would have been back on the road.well that and had a key made. The car had some minor body damage that was apparent upon inspection. The sun roof leaked and the trunks spoiler was almost broken off so the interior was going to need replacing and with the amount of humidity we get out here the under carriage was going to need inspection. Then it was on I towed the car back home and parked her out in my front yard for about 6 months while I tried to find the between two jobs and a family to get all of my parents belongings out of my garage and my garage clean enough to get the car up in the garage Then on December 23rd 2018 it got real the car was finally pushed up into the garage and tare down and a thorough Inspection began. -
Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share?
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Hi all, Earlier this year my 25 neo in my 34 did a head gasket during a track day. Had that fixed up and shortly after ran into more trouble which was diagnosed as rings. $6k and 10 months later with a freshly rebuilt motor I hit my 2nd track day of the year and the car has turned around and chewed through another head gasket on the first lap. Motor was tuned, ran fine on the dyno in heat, didn't make as much power as pre rebuild but we attributed that to the hot weather. Found shit loads of oil in the coilpack valley, after opening the bonnet up, but only in cyl 1-2, assuming this was spat out of the breather. Motor now has shitloads of blow by, is running on 5 and obviously is spitting white smoke out of the exhaust like crazy. Trying to figure out how exactly it's managed to eat a head gasket (and do the rest of the damage it's done to my motor) after one hot lap of Winton. Coolant was boiling when I pulled off the track, powersteering was also overflowing (which set my manifold on fire, yay) before anyone says check your temps, stock gauge said I was slightly above half, which is what I expected given it was a 35 degree day.
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I have a rb25 det neo in my r34 and at times I get strange oil pressure on the stock gauge. I wouldn mind replacing the sensor any tips ?
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All Parts removed from turbo R34 Neo engine. Exhaust Manifold - $50 Intake Manifold - $50 660CC Neo Injectors with Adaptor Plugs - $150 Power Steering Pump - $50 Stock Coilpacks, held 300kw, working well - $80 Engine Loom with Z32 AFM Plug - $170 Z32 AFM $150 Neo Det CAS - $100 R34 Neo Nistune ECU - $450 Hypergear ATR43 Turbo, a bit smokey under load, suspect seals on their way out, still held 14psi. - $450 This is worth $850+ in known good condition, a bargain if you can repair seals yourself. Tial 38mm External Wastegate, Includes custom screamer to suit RB - $100 Stock Radiator $75 -
Hi guys, I've recently installed a new RB25det neo into my R34 after the old one developed some issues. After a bit of messing around I got it running and idling beautifully. Took it to my tuner to have the nistune and Z32 tuned properly and it now runs and pulls all the way on the dyno - no issues there. Loaded it back on the trailer and took it home, but now when I try to drive it up and down the street itll bog down and stall as if an intercooler pipe had blown off (however it's still completely secure). Sometimes the car will stall then wont start again for half an hour, sometimes it starts up straight away. The bogging down tends to happen when going over small bumps in the road or when turning. I'm assuming its wiring related as it runs beautifully when stationary or on the dyno, however I can't work out what wiring problem would cause it to bog this way. Any ideas?
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