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Showing results for tags 'o2 sensor'.
Found 9 results
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NTK & Genuine Nissan Lambda / Oxygen Sensors -=Transaction Instructions=- All transactions are conducted via a portal to our website, usually indicated by the button. Upon clicking this button a new browser window/tab will be opened and the item added to your shopping cart. At this point I would recommend logging (located within "My Account"), this will ensure that the item is added to the permanent cart attached to your account; otherwise it will be lost at the end of the session. If you haven't already created an account on our website you can do so now by clicking here Please Note: If you have any troubles you can contact me by either PM or E-mail. The pricing below does not include delivery, unless otherwise stated; this cost will depend on location and is automatically calculated on our website at checkout. NTK Lambda / Oxygen Sensors Status: In Stock Applications: Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - NTK - Nissan 180SX RPS13 (SR20DET, Red Top Only) & Silvia PS13 (SR20DET) $132.00 $99.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - NTK - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS / GTS-4 / GTS-t (RB20DE & RB25DET) - $77.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - NTK - Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25 / GTS-4 / GTS25-t (RB25DE & RB25DET) - $77.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - NTK - Skyline R32 GTR (RB26DETT)* $132.00 $99.00 *Direct replacement for rear sensor, and can be used in front with reuse of original square plug Genuine Nissan Lambda / Oxygen Sensors Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - Genuine Nissan 180SX RS13 & Silvia S13 (CA18DET) - $154.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - Genuine Nissan 180SX RPS13 & Silvia PS13 (SR20DET, Red Top) - $103.40 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - Genuine Nissan 180SX RPS13 (SR20DET, Black Top) - $103.40 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - Genuine Nissan 200SX S14 & 200SX S15 (SR20DET) - $132.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - Genuine Nissan Skyline R32 GTS25 / GTS-4 / GTS-t - $132.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - Genuine Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25 / GTS-4 (Series 1, 08/1993 - 01/1995) - $132.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - Genuine Nissan Skyline R34 20GT / 25GT / 25GT-4 / 25GT-t (RB20DE, RB25DE & RB25DET, Neo 6) - $198.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor (Front) - Genuine Nissan Skyline R32 GTR (RB26DETT) - $176.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor (Rear) - Genuine Nissan Skyline R32 GTR (RB26DETT) - $176.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor (Front) - Genuine Nissan Skyline R33 GTR, R34 GTR & Stagea WGNC34 260RS (RB26DETT) - $176.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor (Rear) - Genuine Nissan Skyline R33 GTR, R34 GTR & Stagea WGNC34 260RS (RB26DETT) - $176.00 Lambda / Oxygen Sensor - Genuine Nissan Stagea WGNC34 RS-Four (Series 2) / WGC34 RS-V (RB25DET Neo 6) - $198.00 -
Hey guys, got my series 2 rs-four stag about 2 months ago, loving it i must say! Only thing i don't love is the fuel consumption, i have just done 330km to just under a full tank and i spent 90% of that time off boost. Alot of people talk about it being the O2 Sensor, so i pulled mine out to check the condition of it, to me it seems in pretty good nick (car has done a touch over 100k's). another thing is the guy i bought it from lived way out in the country side, and i live in the city, so an ecu reset is probably a good idea, but after 2 months i would have thought the car would have adjusted by now. cheers matt
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Hi, I've owned a 2005 350RX Stagea for almost a year now and I'm finding that it seems to be using more fuel than it used to, and generally feels a little less responsive and less smooth. I'm somewhat open to the idea that it's all in my head, but while I can get up to around 10-11km/L on the motorway, around town I tend to get more like 6-7km/L and that's going very easy on the loud pedal in both cases. 10-11km/L would be strictly motorway driving. I just did a 1000km trip on the open road, and throwing in a few corners and a handful of 50kph zones through towns and that averaged out to just over 9km/L I bought an OB-LINK a while back and have been using that to try and track if it was something to do with my driving style, but it seems like it just likes to suck fuel if you're doing anything other than sitting at a constant speed on the motorway. What I noticed this morning though, was the meter for "A/F correct 1" and "A/F correct 2". I assume these are the two banks, but while A/F correct 1 jumps around a fair bit as you accelerate and decelerate, A/F correct 2, seems to spend 99% of the time at 5%, with very occasional jumps to 10%. I'm not entirely sure what the percentages are supposed to be, and I haven't got any error codes, but I'm wondering if this could point to a problem with the bank 2 O2 sensor? The car has never felt like it's misfired, but there have definitely been times when it's felt like it's running rough. Do these sensors fail in this way or are they either going or not? Any suggestions? Cheers, Tony
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Hi guys, up for sale is my WBC 2 wideband controller. I installed it on my car but then changed from twin turbo to single so took it off and got the single O2 kit. The car has started with the kit on but it never left the shed so it should be in really good condition. It also comes with the dual display gauge so you can see what your AFRs are sitting on. The only thing you'll need are new weld on fittings for the O2 sensors to screw into the exhaust. You can get them on Ebay for about $10 each. I believe this kit is more designed for Platinum range of ECUs rather than Elite but do your own research to confirm. You can just use it as a standalone to monitor your AFRs. Price is $250 and includes delivery in Australia. Its on Facebook and they hungry on there so let me know ASAP if interested! -
OK, so I'm aware this is an age old discussion, but I'm trying to get better fuel economy from my R33 and wonder what I'm missing here. Firstly, engine mods are - full exhaust, Blitz panel filter I was getting around 330kms/tank and decided this was pretty poor. I then replaced the O2 sensor on the assumption that it should have been old enough to be not working at its prime. This gained me only about 30 extra kms/tank. Now at 360kms/ tank I have recently added a bigger dump pipe and metal cat, making it a full modified exhaust which has not really changed things (that's not why I installed them, though). The AFM I would have cleaned about 10,000kms ago and I would have thrown in a can of quality injector cleaner for good measure about 5000kms ago, so while I will do these again soon I don't expect much/any change. Spark plugs are around 12,000?kms old, and would have been platinum/iridium? So the big questions are 1- What OEM parts should I change/maintain to bring fuel economy back up to what it would have been designed to give me? 2- What else can I do to improve this? Thanks -
Harro, Just stuff lying around the garage, all parts are used. Factory Steering Rack Ends/Tie Rods $10 Factory Steering Tie Rod Ends $10 Factory SMIC $50 Factory SMIC piping $50 Factory Cross over pipe & BOV $50 Factory Down pipe $20 Factory Dump pipe $20 Factory Catalytic Converter $50 Factory O2 sensor $10 Factory Mint Handbrake OEM boot $10 Factory HICAS unit $20 Factory Passenger side kick panel, 1x flare clip broken $5 Factory Stock R33 Rims x4 (tyres might not pass an inspection) $100 Bendix DB1170 Front Brake Pads (Near New) - "Guaranteed Race Car Like Squeal" $30 Blitz 60mm Gauge Holder $5 Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Contacts: PM or Reply Here Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166 (AH) OR Milsons Point, NSW, 2061 (BH) Will post some items, but prefer pick-up. Will give discount on bulk purchases, and yes I accept beer as payment also (no VB, Fosters, XXXX, etc..) -
Narrow band o2 All, in theory can you install any narrow band sensor by making the connection end fit wirinh loom? i understand narrow band will be sending lean or rich signal thus should be using a stanadard voltage to communicte this meaning any ecu can understand any o2 sensor, am i correct? reason to ask is i have a narrow band sensor on the r34 and have just purchased a wide band. i want to replace it and install it where the narrow band sensor is right after turbo and then from the controller feed the narrow band to ecu until i get my link ecu in which can will use the wide band output many thanks
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RB25DET NEO stalls once its warm
L0N3S0MER4NG3R posted a topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
RB25DET NEO stalls once its warm Hey guys my RB25det R34 has recently developed a problem where the car decides to stall once it is warm, this tends to be when i am at traffic lights stopped or crawling pace, has also happened when ive been in the lower rev range but i have found that so long as i keep the revs above 3k rpm it doesnt happen. i have checked coolant temp resistances and they all look about right when cold its 3250 ohms and warm 230 ohms. The wires to the o2 sensor have been cut for as long as ive owned the car and worked fine for 2 months then started this problem so key points, -Dies once warm -Coolant temp sensor looks good -seems to be fine with higher revs car specs: STOCK RB25DET NEO with fmic, turbosmart bov to atmosphere, link g4 ecu Thanks in advance -
Just read the codes and got; P0150 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor I) P0151 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor I) P0160 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P0162 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3) Is bank2 driver or passenger side? Are there really 3 sensors per bank, so 6 in total? (dafuq?) Given that they all happen to be on one side, i'm guessing its wiring.
