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Hey all, Got into a prang with my R32 GTST. As per pictures, it was a front-on collision that took out the front bumper completely, all front lights, radiator and a few other bits. Looking to get rid of it ASAP. The engine seems fine, starts instantly, and the car can still move (note I don't say drive). The steering is fouled by the damage. Specs: RB25DET w/ roughly 170,000kms RB20 5 speed Z32 ECU w/nistune Ebay turbo (was working fine on 12psi) GTR pump I am NOT parting the car, selling whole. Best offer by Friday 29/1/16 can take it, I need it gone. Car is located in Guildford 2161. PM if interested. Thanks for your time.

Disclaimer: There's a lot of people recommending to do this mod, but I haven't seen any idiotproof guides on how to do it. I'm not saying this is the best way to do this mod, it's just how i've done it - and hopefully this will help others, even if they don't follow my way 100%. Brief overview: The general consensus is that from Factory, M35 Stageas limit throttle to 30% for up to 3 seconds after releasing the brake pedal. This can prevent good launches/coming out of corners faster. By cutting the signal wire to the ECU, we can maintain full throttle immediately after releasing the brake. It is OK to cut this wire, however you will get a Check Engine Light after some time. By rigging it up to a switch, you are able to disable/enable the mod freely. Behind the glovebox is the ECU. You will need to dissemble the passenger side interior to access this, there's other guides online on how to do this - so I will assume you have your glovebox out and are looking at the ECU. Pull the plastic off guard off the ECU connector, it clicks off the 4 tabs on each corner. Find the VIOLET wire with the BLUE stripe - you can see it in pictures 1 + 4 of this post. I cut this wire, and attached either side to a terminal block. You can pick these up from JayCar very cheaply - I used a terminal block because I don't trust myself to solder wires coming directly off the ECU. I then picked up a small, discrete ON/OFF toggle switch (also from JayCar), which I mounted in my Glovebox - see pictures 2 + 3. Lastly just attach these wires to the remaining spots on the terminal block. Test the switch while everything is apart - This way you can fix any problems before reassembling. Done! Picture 4 of this post explains the above if anyone is unclear. Some people have hooked this up to the reverse switch in the car, so they don't have to touch the switch ever - however I like the idea of a toggle, so I can limit throttle power when a family member/friend drives the car.

Hi all, recently finished my rb25de+t conversion. Runs and drives perfectly - except after idling for about two minutes it shuts off like i have turned off the key, doesnt hesitate or run rough or blow smoke etc just turns off. Since the problem came up i have done the following, regapped spark plugs cleaned and adjusted aac valve checked battery terminals and terminals at both fuse boxes checked every small fuse in cabin and boot extra info for you which may help, im using the following parts stock gtst ecu stock 25de afm missing oxy sensor and light is on dash doesnt have an immobiliser. i cant think of anything that would shut it down so plain witout and issues or rough idling. thanks!

Hi all. Tried to search for the issue, but I didn't have much luck finding anything relating directly to my issue. Car has a stock blow off valve, plumbed back. Decided to make a plate to block it off, you know for flutter/dose/compressor surge whatever you want to call it. Car runs great, starts fine, idles fine, holds boost, flutters... But if I am idling and rev it slightly, then take my foot off the throttle, it hunts for a while then goes back to idling fine. Sometimes it drops to 100-200 rpm, sometimes just to 600, stalled a couple times. It doesn't ALWAYS do it. It is mainly a concern when I am in traffic and need to move forward slightly. Black smoke also comes out the exhaust when hunting. Rich? Is it because it was tuned with the plumb back blow off and it is expecting that air for idle and isn't receiving it? I have blocked the vacuum line going to the bov and the plumb back pipe. I haven't tried plumbing the bov back in and taking out the blanking plate. Will do that soon and report back. R34 gt-t rb25det neo Garret low mount on 18psi avc-r boost controller power fc supporting mods