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Showing results for tags 'oil'.
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Super cool if you like geeking out on oil. I especially love the testing done with cars that just ran for 500,000 miles.
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I have a 500hp r34 gtr and I guess its time to upgrade the oil pump gears to something stronger that can handle rev limiter and shock. I've been looking for billet gears and came over the plazmaman gears for about $380, but then I saw Reimax had some Chromoly steel gears for about $250 parts number: 15110-AAR11-81. How is the strenght on these? Anyone heard about these shattering? Is chromoly steel as strong as billet? I have the oem 05u oil pump so the 81mm should fit?
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Hi guys, got a r34 GT-T NEO, checked my coolant this morning and it is dark brown. there was a little bit of sludge on the bottom of the radiator cap and i put my finger in the coolant to find really small traces of oil. from my experience when the head gasket is blown the coolant is a lot worse, but I'm not a mechanic. i have checked a lot of other forums but can't get any specific info that matches up to my issue. i have had the car for 6 months and there has been no problems with cooling system it always sits just under half. Not sure if the following information will be valid but over the weekend i took off the stock turbo and put a high flowed VL turbo, i used my old waste gate and bolted it to 2 plates that were bolted to the side of the compressor housing, i assumed the plates were flexing because it wasn't boosting very well. i then changed the plates to something a bit more sturdy and took it for a drive, on my old turbo i was running 12 psi and when i tested this new turbo it boosted to 17 psi i then straight away turned the boost down to 8 psi. could this have caused me to blow the head gasket when it over boosted?
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I have had 2 new Earl's oil coolers crack on my car recently and was wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Earls have told me that this never happens (no surprise at that response), and replaced the oil cooler immediately after the first one cracked. They have both cracked on the inlet side where the end tank joins between the fin rows. Had Earls look at the cooler as they claimed it was an "installation problem". We have insisted that it isn't and is more tjhan likely a defective product as it is mounted solidly and has Earls braided hose throughout with enough play in them. After they had a look at it on the car they have agreed to replace it again...but I am not confident after two failures. Will more than likely switch to another brand.
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gauges： oil pressure oil temp water temp EGT （exhaust gas temp) volts
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I got sick of my oil pressure reading very low when warm (0 to .5 on the factory guage) so i decided to replace the sensor. You will need an open ended 17 mm spanner and you will need to undo a hose clamp (mine was a small socket to undo) this side of the engine bay. undo the bottom fuel line hose clamp and slide it off (it is the return line so there is no pressure in this line but some fuel will dribble out so be careful) this is the fuel pressure sensor about 20 cm below the fuel line hopefully you can see it in focus down there with a rubber gromet over the plug on the left hand end of it. this is what the plug looks like with the grommet pulled back. fairly easy to remove. you need to get a 17mm open ended spanner on the sensor to undo it. this is the new sensor i bought off ebay from nissan of chesapeake in usa. it cost me $95 delivered here. and this is the end result. a good oil pressure reading in the cluster guage. may not be highly accurate but it would certainly be able to warn you of a problem before it does too much damage.
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Hi guys ok so been having this issue for quite sometime now.. Originally i thought as well as the mechanics.. it had something to do with the big end bearings.But upon droppping the oil over and over again i have not found and metal pices or shrapnel in the oil. Im stumped!! OK so here is what is happening i come out in the morning start mt car arm to warm it up. As soon as i kick her in the guts she hits auto choke and idiles at 1500rpm and the tickking starts. The oil light is on mind u but after 3 seconds or so the ticking stops and the oil light goes off at exactly the same time...A mate of mine pointed out that it could be the pick up having crap loged in it has anyone had anything simillar to this? im starting to believe it may be an oil pump issue but then again im no wizz at this... mind you i have no loss in power no knocking at top end ... if anything ive noticed im running alote richer... any help and advice would be appreciated
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This oil cooler kit came off a Toyota AE111 (4AGE) but can be used with other cars. For sale: Mocal 16 row oil cooler with Mocal fittings, Mocal thermostated sandwich plate and custom lines. Only had this on the car for long distance driving, which equated to 2400kms. It looks as good as new. Price: $400 ono Location: Sydney. Prefer pick up but will ship to other states. Contact: PM me for all queries. Thanks! -
Hi Guys, Owned my first skyline for 4 months now, Its an r32 gts-t with an rb20det (all stock) with 206xxxkm's on it. Since the most recent oil change, it's developed an engine clatter from around 3000rpm and up. Most noticeable when I rev it to 3000, hold it there, and pulse it up and down from 2800 to 3200, clatter is loudest on liftoff, but not sure if thats just because there are less noises to compete with. I got out the mechanics stethoscope and hunted around, the noises seem to be coming from the top end, but I cant seem to pin point it any better than that. the oil I put in was the same as the oil I took out (Shell HX7 10W40 - was crazy cheap on special for fathers day haha) Wondering if anybody has had a similar problem, from reading around I have read some similar but not quite the same stories where people said it was blocked oil galleries, or big end bearing going (hope not!!) Something of note - the noise doesnt happen at all when its cold to half warmed up, doesnt develop til its bene running enough to be properly warmed up and hot. - maybe I can get away with a thicker oil to solve the problem? seems a bit bandaidish.. Anybody have any suggestions for me?
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Hey guys, So i'm planning on purchasing an oil filter relocation kit. I have seen the trust/greddy ones going around but am unsure on the quality of them as the fittings they use on the hoses are hose clamp fittings as apposed to JIC (better seal, and have been told to use if i can) and the plate/adapter that goes where your oil filter is, screws on like a filter and i have heard these apparently leak?. Just after any experiences you guys have had with these kits or any recomendations on any particular kits. I have found this one, not sure on it tho... http://www.tunershop.fr/tunershop/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/224/products_id/13115/osCsid/3u51mhpj6u9vjk25d4nsjui903 Heres the greddy kit im refering to. http://www.garage7.com.au/home/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1357&category_id=92&keyword=greddy&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 any help would be appreciated!
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Hey everyone, I've been searching around on the forum, but have only managed to find bits and pieces on the topic but anyway, I have an R34 GT-T with a GTR MFD on it, and I was just wondering what temperatures I should be reading when driving normally, and when under boost for the following things: Oil temp, water temp, exhaust temp, and, intercooler temp. Basically what temperatures are safe, and what's not. Sorry if this has been asked before, but I couldn't find it specifically. Thanks!
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Hello fellow Skyline owners! I’ve had my car in the garage for 6 months now, during winter time. Before I put it off I had the car remapped. During the mapping session the car suffered from intermittent missfires on higher rpm. Then when I was done and started the car to drive home the car only ran on 5 cylinders. We did some fault searching, narrowed it down to cylinder 3. Then all of sudden after we swaped coilpack 3 & 1 around, it worked again. The coilpacks used at the time were Splitfires (5 years old). One of the things I wanted to do was to upgrade the ignition system, so I did. I Installed VR38 smart coils. Also swapped out the sparkplugs (ngk bcp7res) gapped at 0.7mm. This is when I found out that all of my old sparkplugs were very black and a bit wet. I originally thought this was a tuning or fuel realated issue since it was affecting all the of the cylinders. This week I started her up. after about 40 minutes of total running (idle) I removed to check my new plugs.. All the sparkplugs have what looks like fresh engine oil on them. The threads are clean, just on the base and half around the center electrode, just as the previous ones too had. Earlier sparkplugs i’ve had replaced has never looked like this and I find it odd that it’s like this on all the plugs. Do you guys have any ideas what would cause all the cylinders to have oil in them all of sudden? 🤔 Will upload a picture so you can see too. The car is a R33 RB25DET Car has uprated turbo,injectors,maf,ebc.. Running a apexi power fc. Unopend engine. Done about 90000km
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hello! if any of you have an r33 gtr and have an oil relocation kit installed, i would be grateful if you shared with me what you used as a mount point. i don't have the oil cooler, i think i will be purchasing an HKS (15004-AN004) kit down the road, but for now i have a greddy relocation kit. this thing doesn't exactly come with any kind of real instruction, just theoretical on how it should work. is there an existing bracket that i should be leveraging, or did you need to drill new holes in the engine bay to get the position correct? is there anything i should know before taking this on? i figured i'd put the adapter plate on the block and then bolt the relocation kit in an easy to access spot on the driver's side, cut the AN hosing to correct lengths and then make the connections. thanks in advance for the recommendations and help! -
Hey guys... Not a very frequent poster here so bear with me please. In the process of getting all the varying issues on my R34 sorted before I take it in for tune (boost was previously turned right down as I bed in a new head gasket). One of those 'issues' is with the intake piping, the oil breather line from the crank case is currently not connected to well, anything. It's just hanging down through the engine bay to under the car. Obviously this is not ideal and the tuner mentioned I would want to get some sort of catch can setup before bringing the car in. I don't want to feed the oil line back into the intake which I guess means I'll be venting it to atmosphere. After searching and reading through a tonne of threads on this forum and others I'm still no clearer as to what I need to buy unfortunately, as it seems all catch cans seem to have two inlets whereas I only appear to have one line that needs to be connected. Pic for reference, not exactly an up to date one unfortunately but it shows the line I'm talking about clearly enough. Can anyone advise me on this? Secondary question, from everything I've read for venting to atmosphere it's said the PCV should be blocked, is there any real issue likely to come from not doing that? Cheers -
Hey all, just installed oil temp/pressure gauges in my car. Running a RB25DET NEO and was just wondering what it should be running at. Oil pressure is about 40psi at idle and a bit over 60 at higher revs from memory, this is when car is warm. Temp is around 85-90 degrees once warm and driving. Had a look in the service manual but couldn't find what they should be sitting at. Any info appreciated, cheers!
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So here's the deal guys. I've got oil spraying out of my dipstick tube as well as pushing my dipstick out of the tube about 150mm each time. so clearly im getting pressure in the crank case but ive tried all i can think of now im out of options, so far ive: -replaced the PCV valve with a new genuine unit from nissan. -checked all breather hoses to make sure they weren't blocked. -done a compression test to make sure i wasn't getting excessive blow by that was causing oil to spray out. (read 140psi across all cylinders) now thats where ive hit a wall..... i cant think of anything else to check =\ any ideas? appreciate any help...thanks.
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hey guys this morning i went to go for a drive but i had a feeling i should check my fluid levels before i do so and i did, i found a lot of oil in my coolant, we pressure tested the radiator and it held pressure well very small drop in pressure after 15mins, and also did compression test which came back ok. am i looking at a suspected blown head gasket here? or are there other places where the oil could have gotten into the coolant from? -
Hi Guys, Just wanted to check with you guys - do any of your Rb26 suffer a lot of blowby? When on idle and when u rev - do you get a black soot coming out of the exhaust? And when on boost lots of black smoke? Like it is extremely rich? What is the average oil consumption on the RB26? Im on Magnatec now - drove for 2 weeks - and i checked 2 days ago it was about half from the F line. Had to top up. Just want to see if any of you guys experience this - and if any of you know if it is a problem... If it is a problem what is the solution? This is my first RB26 so im learning as i go along. Car is running fine - boosts fine as well witha slight misfire at 5500rpm to 6000rpm - should be the coils, will be changing them at the end of the month - just these 2 issues - no leaks other than return hose from the turbines has a slight leak. Thanks for the help in advance. Cheers!
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For sale are some rb26 parts, as i'm putting the standard parts back in before selling my r32 gtr, to fund my new bike and super-motard setup for this year. Posting from townsville. Contact email: [email protected] text: 0434916740 NEW Supertech Pistons 86.5mm/8.5cr $550 All parts below have done just under 8000km. HKS Stage 1 cams with unknown adjustable cam gears $500 Tomie Dump Pipes $400 Spool Rods $450 Ross Tuffbond metal jacket balancer $400 Mines cam Baffles $200 Fuel Rail & Aeroflow fuel pressure regulator $200 RC Fuel injectors 750cc with clips $400 Nismo rb26 oil pump $800 Supertech Dual Valve Springs With ti-retainer $400 (also comes with inner washers to go between head and spring) Old Oem Valves $ make a offer
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What: 1 unopened 5L bottle of Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 100% synthetic oil. How much: $55 (cash on pick-up only) Where: Wantirna, Victoria Contact: PM me If you have not used Motul 8100 X-cess before you will immediately notice a difference in free-revving and smooth engine operation. You cannot buy this from the large retail chains anymore so get in quick at this price! From the Motul website: High performance 100% Synthetic lubricant specifically designed for powerful and recent cars fitted with large displacement engines, Gasoline and Diesel, turbocharged or naturally aspirated, direct or indirect injection. Multipurpose product featuring numerous car maker approvals, especially recommended for vehicles still under warranty. -
OIL IS ALL NEW, NEVER USED, Bought em but car is now sold 1 x 2.5L Bottle Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90 = $30 1 x 2.5L Bottle Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90 = $30 1 x 2.5L Bottle Penrite SIN Gear Oil 75 = $25 (Above are all same SIN 75 supercedes to Pro Gear 75W-90) 1 x 2.5L Bottle Hypoid 80W-90 = $25 1 x 2.5L Bottle Gear Oil 80W-90 = $30 (Hypoid superceded to Gear Oil 80W-90) see pics ALL THESE PARTS CAME OFF R33 GTR Series 3 with 60,000km supposedly Dont have any other parts.... these are the left overs.. apart from lug nuts... Standard R33 GTR Exhaust Catback = $150 Standard R33 GTR Front Pipe = $50 Standard R33 GTR Suspension (4 Shocks) = $300 Standard R33 GTR Wing Blade (White Original) = $80 Standard R33 GTR Blow Off Valves x 2 Comes with fittings as shown = $100 R33 GTR Exhaust (JASMA Approved) Apexi Dual Exhaust Style Catback (has some dents): $250 Message for details. I live in Bankstown area (Sydney) Regards Lee -
R.I.P.S 26/30 extended sump I have for sale a brand new extended high volume sump from my RIPS 26/30 engine package. these sell for $1400NZ (still over $1300AUD) + postage costs + import tax so this is a bargain. Asking $900 Please call or txt me on 0432 941 343 as I'm not on here often. James
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Filling transmission oil through gearstick? So after having to cut off the boot that goes on the bottom of the shifter (previous owner didnt use a circlip instead used a hose clamp and tightened it with hulk hands) I'm now stuck as to what to do next. I cant change the fluid through the actual transmission because the filler plug has been tightened by hercules. What do I do next to fill the transmission oil? And does anyone have the part number for the boot that goes on the bottom there? -
High Accuracy Alternatives to Haltech Sensors Hi guys, Currently researching to get some sensors to hook up to my PS2000 (aka Box Simulator 2016). I'm wanting to get both oil/fuel pressure sensors for logging and engine protection hence the need to be reliable. I've managed to track down these Honeywell sensors and I think they will be suitable/accurate and have the calibration curves readily available. Can anyone think of a better alternative? Don't mind spending extra for better quality sensor. Part No - MLH100PGB06A I'd also like a wideband and I've been told that the Haltech Wideband using CAN is more reliable/helpful than your typical 0-5v output. But I'm confused as to why Haltech insist on including the Bosch 4.2 sensor when it's obsolete due to a major design flaw. Does anyone know any alternative CAN widebands? I'm not too familiar with the operating principles of CAN and would love some suggestions. Hope this helps other people save some money on sensors.
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Which oil sandwich plate to get for an rb20det? Can someone link me to a sandwich plate for a oil temp sensor which is 1/8 npt, thanks anyone sorry for noob question
