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Hey Guys, Looking to sell the following parts off my R34 GTR which are all in great working order and have done around 10k. 1x Power FC and hand control - $450, tuned by IS Motorracing for Z32, 1000cc injectors and HKS GTRS turbos on 98. 2x z32 with chrome piping for rb26 - $200 for the both, no plugs 6 x 1000cc denso injectors (part number 195500-3650) with brand new rubber seals - $400 1x rb26 twin turbo intake pipe - $80 or $900 take the lot Pick in Revesby after hours or Campsie during office hours

hi, need help on my tuning. besides data logic, any other software i use to tune PFC with map sensors? version 8.0D thanks in advance for your input. Shaune

Hey Guys, Looking to sell the following parts off my R34 GTR which are all in great working order and have done around 10k. 1x Power FC and hand control - $550 2x z32 with chrome piping for rb26 - $250 for the both 1x z32 with Apexi filter. Filter is slightly damaged, but doesn't affect performance - $130 1x Nismo PFR (rail not included) - $80 6 x 1000cc denso injectors (part number 195500-3650). missing 5 of the 6 rubber washers from the front of injector which I believe these are cheap to replace (see pics) - $600 1x rb26 twin turbo intake pipe - $100 or $1200 take the lot Pick in Revesby after hours or Campsie during office hours

Selling my turbo setup off my 32 rb25... Has barely been used. i actually bought it off my mate, who had barely used the turbo and mani, gate is brand new in box. lines and everything barely used. Setup is... Kando t67 10cm v band (almost new) Hybrid steel Mani high mount with 44m gate flange (almost new) Tial MVR 44mm (brand new in box with all the springs) Custom front pipe(pretty average mild steel) All lines for the turbo and everything included, some of the lines are brand new and custom made to fit the setup. perfect working order, any other questions just ask. Selling this to fund car in japan. Price: $1500 Item: power fc is for rb25det series 1 and 2. with hand controller cond: perfect working order pics: no, we all no what they look like. can get some if ur seriously interested and contact my mob. Price: $900 firm Item: genuine turbosmart Fuel pressure regulator - fpr3000 cond: brand new, no mount or fittings pics: yes price $250 All located in Melbourne, will only ship the power fc and the regulator Contact 0407 056 817 as I DO NOT RESPOND TO PM'S

Selling this on behalf of my friend so plesae DONT PM ME about the item. message his mobile for pics and anything else. Anyone who has heard about power fc's knows they are the best of the best and EXTREMELY RARE for an rb20det. i think the price Alex has listed is fairly reasonable as i have seen them go for $1500+ on ebay. Item: Apexi Power fc ecu for an rb20det with hand controller. Condition: perfect working order. Location: Melbourne, Vic(inner eastern suburbs) will post at buyers expense Price: $1250ono Pics: Message mobile for pics(we all know they aint much to look at though haha) Contact: Alex on 0400 199 056 Cheers, Jack.

Hey For sale a power fc with hand controller out of a r33 GTR. Also a old apexi turbo timer (square box). I am happy to ship. Power fc $900 Timer $50 Peter Sydney 040552four3two6

Hey guys Im selling my Power Fc so i can afford someone to come fix up the hell that is the eletrical problems im having with my R32 GTST ITS for a R33 skyline but i had it in my R32 running the rb25det but now im just running my standard R33 ECU if you guys have any question just leave them here or inbox i will post also Cheers

I have a power fc out of a R33 GTR. Screen has some marks and dead pixels, but works otherwise. $500 0405 five two four 326

Hi, I've been playing around with tuning my car for a while on top of the base map that I have and it's been quite successful. Full throttle is perfect, but of course, the problem is part throttle. From what I have been told, the PFC d-jetro is incapable of ever getting good results for part throttle on a GTR due to the multiple throttle bodies plennum. I've been told that the problem can be solved, using TPS/INJ corrections and although this will never get perfect results, it will, at least, give drivable ones. Currently, at about 5000rpm+ the AFRs drop into the low 10s and then into 9, at which point, I just have to give up or risk flooding. My question is, what should the curve of the TPS graph look like? I'm guessing it's more complex than just a linear line but I wonder if there is any calculations I can do that will allow me to get an accurate 'estimation' Furthermore, how do ECUs like LINK/SYVECS allow a better tune? (like I appreciate they have more tables for fuelling, but what are these?)

Introduction I've always had problems with my idle on my r33 GTR running a power FC; it runs 264 cams and felt quite lumpy and often hunted for the right idle speed and AFR. I do the tuning myself but could never get the idle just right.. until today! This took me 4 hours to do but I am quite slow and I have quite a busy engine bay so I had to remove some things to get to what I was after. From what I have learned, there are two air control parts on a typical GTR, the IACV and the AAC. I'll show a picture and brief explanation of both: - AAC This is relatively easy to get to on the RB26; it is just underneath the intake plenum and has 4 bolts that are roughly 2 inches in length and are a 10 socket. It is comprised of two major parts; the electrical component which shows the AAC label and the controller which has the spring and screw inside which allows the fluctuation of air. As I understand, the AAC is designed to increase air flow when electrical load occurs, such as a power assisted steering wheel being turned. When this gets dirty, it can cause high idle because the spring holds the gap that lets the air in open causing a leak in the system which will also cause lean behaviour. Alternatively, if it's filled with gunk, it could cause hunting due to bad air fuel ratios from going too rich. See below for some pictures of me holding the AAC after I gave it a quick clean. (The AAC below is not my image) The AAC has a screw that you can turn; it is facing the front of your car or at the right of the right component on the above diagram. Turning the screw clockwise will lower idle and turning it anti-clockwise will increase idle. The basic functionality of this is that it overrides the system and leaves a small gap that air can go through. There is some conflicting instructions that to change the idle you have to unplug the throttle position sensor and/or disconnect the brown connection but you'll see what I did later on. IACV (Idle control valve) I'm not overly knowledegable about this component as I don't actually have this on my car. A lot of people remove this and/or block the piping and rely on tuning to do its job. It is located very much under the air plenum above the oil filter. Basically, this component will allow more air into the system depending upon how cold the water temperature is. As the water temperature rises, the valve will gradually shut until this device is no longer used. A couple of problems that I can think of is that if this is faulty and it doesn't close, there would be an air leak and if it doesn't open it would mean there would be some lean behaviour on startup if not corrected by the ECU.] The nissan skyline manual shows how to diagnose this if it's faulty but it is a real pain to get to. My experience I am fairly novice with cars but I'm learning more and more as I tinker around with my overly specced car that I bought on a whim one day because I felt my impreza wasn't powerful enough! So, I've had major problems with my idle; either hot or cold, it would start to drop below 800rpm and I'd have to apply the throttle to get it to stop it from stalling. I tried modifying the fuel ratios, the ignition timing and the idle settings on the powerfc using datalogit to no avail. After doing some research, I decided that I needed to take off the AAC and give it a clean to see if that would work. Required: - Size 10 socket wrench will do, it's not that tricky to get to like some people say; I had an ordinary sized socket wrench and managed to get to all 4 bolts easily AAC gasket or you can make one yourself using a stencil and some gasket material (You could re-use but I decided against it) RTV sealant Carb cleaner Phillips screw driver Toothbrush/pipe cleaner or some way of cleaning For a picture of the gasket, see below; it's quite tricky to find it and I had to get it from America and nearly ordered the RB25 one; I live in the UK. Instructions for removal: - Firstly, remove anything on the left side of the engine bay that will restrict you from getting just underneath the intake plenum; I had to remove my catch tank and my fuel pressure regulator to get to this but this took a few minutes as I'm always removing these to clean up on my overly obsessive cleaning schedule of my car. Remove the brown wire socket which is clipped on fairly trivially Use the socket wrench to undo each of the bolts; mine were so easy to remove that once I'd loosened each bolt, I could use my finger to unscrew which was a lot easier than worrying about dropping the bolts down into the endless pit inside the engine bay. Simply pull at the AAC gently, trying to rescue the gasket if you want to reuse; I found that it was just stuck to the AAC and was easy to peal off. Remove the air tube that connects to the left hand side of the AAC You should now be able to take the AAC out of the engine bay and take it to your working area ready to be cleaned. Half way through cleaning, I decided I was going to take some pictures but unfortunately I left my iPad at home so I had to use my laptop to take the photos. It was also very cold today and my fingers didn't like the combination of carb cleaner and freezing weather. Hard to believe they're actually normal looking when I'm in the nice warm area typing on my computer! The AAC is comprised of two parts; I call them the electrical component. They are joined together with two small phillips head screws and come apart quite easily. Be careful as there is a little rubber seal that sits between them: - and the air control component.. see below Mine was fairly dirty and had some black grimey gunk all around the spring and screw. I immediately smiled and was quite excited at the prospect that my lovely car was potentially going to stop idling badly! I got a spare toothbrush and pipe cleaner and used carb cleaner spray to basically rinse the whole thing out and clean the spring and screw out. This is a lot cleaner than it was but what you can see is two holes in the center of the air component. The hole on the left is the spring that is controlled by the electrical component and the hole on the right is the screw that you can manually screw with a phillips head screw driver. Make sure these are both clean before putting back together. I actually adjusted the manual screw so that there was a tiny gap as I've read that it needs to be open a slight bit. This could be wrong so this may need to be adjusted to meet your idle speed requirement. I also gave the electrical component a cleaning but only on the side where it connects to the air component. : - Once I had cleaned the air component, I scrubbed the port underneath the intake plenum with carb cleaner as there was a tiny bit of grime and old sealant. I then screwed the components back together to form the AAC again and then took my nice new gasket out of the packaging: - Applying the sealant Apply a very thin layer of RTV sealant on the AAC firstly by adding a small line, roughly 2mm thick in small sections and using my thumb to spread it out until the flat edge is completely covered. Place the gasket onto the AAC; it will only go one way so that the layout matches. If it doesn't match, you've probably bought the wrong gasket. It's quite easy to do as there is a lot of posts containing the RB25 part number and so on. Repeat step 1 but this time on the gasket on the side that will be attached back to the port The tricky part is now getting the AAC back on without fudging the sealant and getting into a right mess. I did this the first time but make sure that if you mess it up, you ensure the sealant is properly applied as if it is not, there could be an air leak. I found that with the sealant I used, the AAC actually stuck to the port without the bolts which was nice as it gave me the opportunity to let go of it to push each of the bolts in and hand tighten them before I used the wrench to tighten them. Remember to re-attach the pipe and brown connection which, for me, was quite easy. I thought it was going to be an annoyance trying to get them back on afterwards but they went on surprisingly easy. PowerFC idle learning (only for power fc) I did not adjust the screw on the ECU as I feel this is something that shouldn't really be messed with and I didn't change the throttle position screw. The only screw I set up was the one on the AAC which is shown above. I use datalogit but there are posts that let you know how to do this with the hand controller. Switch the ignition on and turn off any of the blowers/air con/lights etc. Reset the powerfc back to defaults but ensure that you've saved your map and can reload it with your preferred settings. Switch the ignition on and leave the car to idle for 10 minutes to learn idle at no load After those 10 minutes turn on the lights and the air blower for 10 minutes to learn idle at electrical load After those 10 minutes turn on the air conditioning for 10 minutes to learn idle at air con load The 30 minute period is required by power fc and should be performed, just for peace of mind after doing this as it can change quite a lot of things if the AAC was dirty. Hopefully this fixes your hunting idle; it fixed mine. Sorry for the lack of pictures and quality, as well as the inexperience that is obvious in this post. Just figured it would be nice to try and help people who have this issue as it can really be annoying stalling at junctions through no fault of your own!

Hey all, Up for sale is my old Power FC with hand controller and matching Z32 AFM as a combo deal. This has been in my car and worked great for 4 years done roughly 60,00 kms, reason for removal is because my tuner has swindled me into helping with developing a new ECU and f**king about with that. Current tune is for z32, id1000 injectors and e85 but of course I would only recommend getting a new tune to suit your setup and not driving with current tune unless you have the same setup and want to drive off boost to your tuner. It is in basically as new condition as its never moved since being mounted. Pics show its all there including box with manuals and certificate (not pictured is the Hand controller but I will be putting that up tomorrow as I left it in the car!, can also include a z32 plug but I would suggest getting a new one for $30 so you have new wires but hey thats just me! Price is $1100 as not willing to separate unless there is a buyer for the PFC that doesn't need the z32 Located Penrith, Western Sydney but happy to post as they have original boxes.

RB25DE+T PFC idle Hey guys, Had this minor annoyance for a very long time, from memory probably since the powerfc was installed and tuned 6+ years ago. Maybe because I'm getting older it's starting to annoying me more. I turn the car on in the morning and idle is high, 1500-1700rpm, but stable. On the hand controller it all looks pretty stable, not sure if idle this high when cold is normal with other powerfc's but so far it doesn't annoy me. As I'm driving around and idling at lights while the car is still warming it's still sitting at 1500rpm, on the hand controller once the water temp gets to about 59-62 degrees it starts hunting, from 1500 rpm down to 900rpm and back and forth every 1-2 seconds and will continue like this until the water temp gets to about 72+ degrees then idle is perfect, 850-900rpm. The only way to control it during this time is let off the clutch a little bit until it bites and slowly lower the revs, then I slowly press my foot down on the clutch again. If I put my foot down too quick on the clutch or roll forward a little the hunting starts again. Only happens when the car has been sitting for a long time, eg overnight or all day and then come back from work and turn it on. If the car gets to operating temp and then I turn it off for 1-3 hours and the engine is still pretty warm no issue, idle is perfect. Now before I start playing with the TPS voltages and mucking around pulling apart things I'm wondering if this is just something in my maps in the low load/idle section that needs adjusting as it only happens for ~10 degrees so I would have guessed the voltages on the TPS are fine? Car has been tuned a number of times many years ago by a very reputable tuner. It happened as soon as I swapped the standard ECU to the powerfc and it has been like this ever since, even with adding in cam gears and a z32 AFM. I have used contact cleaner to clean the AFM and I've cleaned the AAC with throttle body cleaner and ear buds in every little knook but no avail. Any suggestions? I've found this post from long ago which seems almost identical so I'll give turning off O/2 feedback a go (not sure if it's enabled currently or not) but wanted to see if others had the same issue? Thanks.

OK, so i have a 34, has all the china bolt on mods, high mount ffp power fc z32 afm 550cc denso etc started, dropped the timing belt mashed valves etc resolution, rebuilt the head now, wont run properly, symptoms WONT start cold with out "start ya bastard" missfires and stalls till at full temp wont make boost unless i feather the throttle hold it flat and it wont rev over 2400, or make positive pressure generally wont run without great difficulty im about to burn it to the ground. legit, i have another er34 im building and this one just sits in storage, bad things are going to happen any help is appreciated

【WTB】ECU for 33GTST S1 Hi guys. I would like to buy an cheap ECU for my 33 GTST S1. It could be pfc, haltech or whatever. Better with boost controller and hand controller. Budget is no more than $700. Located in Glen Iris, Mel. Can pick up if you are not too far from me.

Power FC D Jetro with hand controller and MAP sensors R33 GTR - $900 Hi all Power FC D Jetro with hand controller and MAP sensors for sale. In perfect working order. Selling only due to a upgrade to Haltech. I understand these may also work with R32 GTR (please double check prior to enquiry). Located Western Sydney. Can post at buyer's expense. PM if interested. thanks Umair

Looking for a PFC in good condition for my R33 gtr v-spec. If you have the EL-commander and the boost controller too, that would be awesome. Splitfire coil pack, torque split controller, devil wing, 320km/h nismo tacho etc are also of interest. PS. You need to be willing to ship to Norway.

Hi All, R34 Apexi PFC modified by the guys at Hills Motorsport to suit S1 stagea. To my knowledge it will not work with the auto trans so it will suit a buyer having either done or looking at doing a manual conversion. Comes with hand controller and Z32 AFM. $1300 Can be returned to standard for $110 + postage to and from hills Motorsports http://www.hillsmotorsports.com.au/ The PFC is used and is currently running on my car and will be removed once i have a buyer. It was origianlly tuned by Sean at All Star Garage and is working 100% other then the Air Con latches and cant be turned off while driving. There is some info on the Vipec website about R34 aircons latching and how to fix it or speak to the guys at Hills Motorsport to see if they have nutted out how to stop the latching. Located in Perth WA, happy to post at buyers expense. Cheers Daryle TEXT ONLY 0422944924 or PM for enquiries