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Showing results for tags 'pressure'.
Found 7 results
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I got sick of my oil pressure reading very low when warm (0 to .5 on the factory guage) so i decided to replace the sensor. You will need an open ended 17 mm spanner and you will need to undo a hose clamp (mine was a small socket to undo) this side of the engine bay. undo the bottom fuel line hose clamp and slide it off (it is the return line so there is no pressure in this line but some fuel will dribble out so be careful) this is the fuel pressure sensor about 20 cm below the fuel line hopefully you can see it in focus down there with a rubber gromet over the plug on the left hand end of it. this is what the plug looks like with the grommet pulled back. fairly easy to remove. you need to get a 17mm open ended spanner on the sensor to undo it. this is the new sensor i bought off ebay from nissan of chesapeake in usa. it cost me $95 delivered here. and this is the end result. a good oil pressure reading in the cluster guage. may not be highly accurate but it would certainly be able to warn you of a problem before it does too much damage.
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Hey all, just installed oil temp/pressure gauges in my car. Running a RB25DET NEO and was just wondering what it should be running at. Oil pressure is about 40psi at idle and a bit over 60 at higher revs from memory, this is when car is warm. Temp is around 85-90 degrees once warm and driving. Had a look in the service manual but couldn't find what they should be sitting at. Any info appreciated, cheers!
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High Accuracy Alternatives to Haltech Sensors Hi guys, Currently researching to get some sensors to hook up to my PS2000 (aka Box Simulator 2016). I'm wanting to get both oil/fuel pressure sensors for logging and engine protection hence the need to be reliable. I've managed to track down these Honeywell sensors and I think they will be suitable/accurate and have the calibration curves readily available. Can anyone think of a better alternative? Don't mind spending extra for better quality sensor. Part No - MLH100PGB06A I'd also like a wideband and I've been told that the Haltech Wideband using CAN is more reliable/helpful than your typical 0-5v output. But I'm confused as to why Haltech insist on including the Bosch 4.2 sensor when it's obsolete due to a major design flaw. Does anyone know any alternative CAN widebands? I'm not too familiar with the operating principles of CAN and would love some suggestions. Hope this helps other people save some money on sensors.
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2006 250GT Tire Pressure? Hey guys, Probably an incredibly silly question, but I just want to be sure. I have 225/55R17's all round and I just realized I haven't checked their pressure since I got the car. I got told from a friend that it's 32PSI so I went out to the gas station to go check it all. It's 24 degree weather today (Not sure if that matters) A couple were around 40PSI as the others were mid 30. I changed them all to 35PSI and I'm not too sure if I was meant to do that all around? I don't know if it's just my brain thinking the ride was a bit more 'bouncy' or if it actually is. Am I meant to have higher pressure in the rear or vice-versa? I have too many questions, if someone could put my mind at ease it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
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Hi! Just had a car on the dyno! It did really well but had to stop the boost at 1.8bar as the three pumps are not working properly. The car can boost a lot more but not without the fuel system working properly! At 7k rpm, the fuel pressure drops from 6bar to 4.5bar! I have 2x bosch 044s and 1x walbro 450 (all genuine) in the boot of the car. Does anyone have any bright ideas on the best way to test them? The condition only seems to happen after being thrashed on the dyno. The fuel pumps seem to work fine now so it could be that they are getting too hot, in which case, I need to think of a way of verifying this and sorting the problem. One of the ideas was to have two guys sit in the back with multimeters checking the voltage of each pump when the condition occurs whilst I monitor the overall fuel pressure to rule out a voltage problem. Seems a bit crazy though; any other ways? The swirl pot, metal tubing, pumps and filters were all hot to touch but the car was on the dyno for a good time so if the heat is effecting them this much, should the pumps be positioned underneath the car so they have air flow or do I just need to keep the tank filled? The tank had reached 1/4 left at this point. Thanks!
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Hey guys, Has anyone blown the oil pump? what symptoms came up? really want to know, if someone could be bothered replying that would be great thank you Marni
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Just wanted to share with everyone some concrete information regarding replacing boot struts on R33 skyline, specifically the GTR but I am sure the information will be transferable. The reason I am posting is that there wasn't much information regarding pressures & the ability to remove the strut from the bracket (requiring drilling). What I did ended up costing me $110. Below is a picture I pulled from another thread, this is the part of the strut that is hard to remove. Very hard, but not impossible. What we did was use my 10mm spanner and wedge it in between the ball and the strut, then slowly work the it off. It looks like it's going to snap the strut and it ends up destroying it, but that's ok because new ones are cheap. This is what mine looked like in the end. We ended up putting 100nm of pressure in each cyl. It holds the boot fine with a genuine GTR spoiler. If I had to do it again, I would put 150nm in each to see if it holds any better, BUT that 100 works just fine. Any questions please shoot them through.
