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Found 22 results
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Hi all just a quick question about this turbo timer. It seems to not be working when i turn the timer on, it immediately starts beeping as if I've already switched the car off. Was wondering what could it be ? is it not grounded properly or ? Thanks !
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Just wondering if anyone else is having a problem with their GTR having tomei poncams (and no aftermarket cam gears!) installed and starting in the cold. When I start my car cold the engine almost cuts out at idle. Is this happening to anyone else? Would cam gears help this??
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Hi everyone, Just curious if anyone has experienced this before or could give me some ideas as to what to look for? I rarely drive my R33 4 door, Automatic Skyline, but as it sits under a car cover I have been hoping it would stay in the similar condition. The other day I took my car out for a drive and noticed very quickly that it had developed a hollow high pitched noise when slowly driving and when stopped with the brake fully engaged. The high pitched sound seemed most frequent while idling or moving through the automatic gears, and didn't seem totally go away even when the engine was fully warm. May have lessened, possible after a long drive, but am still worried about it. Could be something to do with it not having been driven in 2 weeks, I was slow with the first 10km of the drive to allow the oils to circulate, but its still a weird noise. I did look in the engine bay but the noise seemed to be coming from inside the car, either that or it stopped by the time I had got to the engine to check. Any ideas for areas to check first and i'll give them a look.
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Hi, Seeing this is my first post, I better say it's great to be here. Sorry my first post is regarding a problem. I've recently been taking my interior more or less apart. Doing this, I found a KMH to MPH converter connected behind my cluster. This is what it looks like disconnected. Clearly it is AFM. Probably installed by the guy who had the car before me. I took it out due to two reasons. 1. I would like it in km/h if possible. 2. I didn't like the quality of the install. The green and red wire goes directly onto the cluster - Two screws securing it. They are located around the back of the speedometer. The blue wire goes from the black PIN-connector (Upper row, 2nd from middle). Original wire is grey with 2 red lines. Yellow wire goes from the bundle of cables which is behind the cluster. Also grey with 2 red lines. The converter says as follows: Red: 12v Green: Earth Yellow: KMH signal input Blue: MPH signal output I am not a 100% sure the yellow wire goes from the bundle and the blue from the PIN. Perhaps it's the other way around. If necessary, I will naturally make sure as soon as I am at the car (it's parked in a garage for the winther). I've had a voltmeter onto where the yellow cable was connected - With the engine running it occasionally gave a small reading. Note: It was only in idle. Is it possible to just connect the 4 wires (2 from the car, 2 from the speedo-cluster) to get a KMH signal, or should I just reinstall the converter? Furthermore, how should the 4 wires be connected to one another? Car spec: Skyline R33 GTST S2 Haven't been able to find any answer. I hope I'm not asking a stupid question. Any help is much appreciated.
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Hey not sure if this is a topic but I desperately need help. Ill try to keep it short but basically have a '94 R33 coupe series 1 with a sunroof only had her for a few months, bought from a lebanese guy....this is both me nd my partners dream car...so we cleaned her up, black bonnet, sound system etc. he did not look after her at all. We had a good run then problem after problem started. PROBLEM # 1. Rocket cover leaking - fixed it 2. Hicas light only comes on once the car has been started then turned off for a short period of time. If let for roughly an hour it stays off (still not fixed) 3. Clutch started to squeak nd a tiny plastic bit just fell to the floor inside the car one day (still squeaking but clutch works perfect althought a bit sticky) 4. Driving nicely nd heard this noise like say a dragon flys wings right near ur ear. Tow trucked it home, pulled it all apart harmonica balancer is a bit thrashed out nd the 2 keys that hold it it place nd the crank pulley pretty much weren't there. Aparentl a ceased aircon system can cause it? Replaced those, put her all back together (first didn't even want to start timing woz out, lined all the notches up nd she started) now took her for a run bit sluggish but she still drove, boost leak? Fixed all of them (who ever came up with the 6piece intercooler pipe system should be shot!) cool she ran better nd better with every tweak. Got home turned her off nd there woz with weird bubbling noise coming from the back of the motor my partner thought it woz bottom end but we never bled the radiator system so I thought mayb airbubles. But the tapping/knocking noise is still their i figured it woz the harmonica balancer against the timing case since it looks a bit wonky wen she idles but as the revs pick up the straightens out, it's not a whole heap but just enough for u to notice. Good old YouTube nd partner reckons the noise is definitely death knock. I'm hoping its no or ill cry problem after problem can anyone shed some light coz I'm lost nd I really do not want to get rid of her or spend 3-4k on a rebuild! :'(
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Hey guys, Having an issue with the electric seats in my V35. The electric seats are all working in my car apart from the switch controlling the back and forwards control on the drivers seat. Now the weird thing is that I have managed to push it all the way back with the switch, but it won't go forward again. I stuck my head under the seat and tried to check all the connections, but I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for xD I also checked for noises when using the switch and the motor clicks when I press to the switch back, but no when I press it to go forwards. Is this a common problem with an easy fix? Or do I have to rip the whole seat out to get at the switches to change them out? And if I do, what is the part number/s that I would need to mention when getting parts? If anyone knows anything then I would greatly appreciate some info Cheers -
Hi Guys, I have a problem at idle with my GTR, cylinder number 5 is not running when idleing or not under load, When the engine get some load, it kicks back in and runs fine with plenty of power. I have replaced all 6 spark plugs, i have swapped over the coil packs with others and its not a coil pack issue. However when i Unplug the plug to the 5th coilpack, the revs don't change/drop. So I'm guessing it has something to do with the plug/wiring? Anyone got any advice before i start replacing everything? I recently replaced the whole engine and got it tuned. This started happening a day after i got it tuned. Took it back to the mechanics who installed the motor and they couldnt find the problem... Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Hey guys i thought i might start one of these up so we can post any problems we are having and any fixes or places we got problems fixed. To start i have this problem when i go through a touchless carwash, I loose throttle response about 3-5 mins after the carwash is finished. Also my brake lights start randomly flashing. This goes away by the next day. I'm assuming water has got somewhere it shouldn't. Nissan has ordered some part they think is responsible (wait and see) Also my passenger window stopped. I can still open and close with the keyfob. These both should be done on warranty but some at Nissan say they don't do Infiniti warranty and others say they do. I rang Infiniti Aus and they say Nissan does do the warranty. 😵 But they are my 2 problems i have.
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Hi all, I have an Autoselect Carbon bonnet for my R34 GT-R and have fitted it to my car but my problem is with the locking latch at the front... basically it just wont lock down/in the latch assembly no matter how hard I push down. I have played around with the latch assembly by removing the 3 x 12mm bolts that keep it into place and trying to move it up and down. I have also even tried to remove the springs and see if that would help at all but nothing. I've also tried adjusting where the bonnet bolts onto its hinges (near windscreen) and still nothing. Definitly not a case of not pushing down hard enough as I hard a 'crack' sound when I really gave it some so I didnt press down any further Here are some pics of the bonnet resting on the latch. Any info/help/tips would be greatly appreciated Cheers, Glen
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I recently purchased my non turbo skyline and its been acting up since day 1. I can't determine whats causing it because I know there are multiple things that cause the engine idle to hunt and the engine to die when the clutch is engaged.. I know something or multiple components need to be cleaned because this does not happen every time I come to a stop, it happens at random times. Also it normally never hunts or dies until the engine has warmed up. Just wondering what I should start with first.. I've already cleaned the Throttle Body and the AAC. Some help or lead way would be much appreciated!! -Mitch -
Hello Guys, I've been having this problem with my V35 250GT for some over 6 months now and the car is now sitting at a well known workshop where the mechanics are stuck so I've come to the forum to ask for assistance. 6 months ago I had my VQ25DE engine replaced with a new one, since then the car has had issues on full throttle and the mechanic who installed the engine closed up his shop. I took the vehicle into Nissan and they said that there was a TPS Error code being thrown up on their diagnostics tool, they checked the TPS and saw the wiring had been hacked so they tried to fix it up. This solved the problem for about a month and then the car started to feel almost like it hits a rev limiter on full throttle and the whole car shakes, it drives fine if you lightly accelerate all the way up the rev ranges. I've been battling with the issue for a few months because nobody knew the answer to the problem, until a few days ago when the vehicle does the same on about 2,000 RPM's now and is practiaclly undriveable. Another scan has thrown up a curl valve error (apparently sits at the front of the engine to open and close throttle) but again, the mechanic is not 100% sure without another V35 side by side to replace parts and test. If anyone can help, please help as I am stuck and left with no other options. Even if someone can lend HyperDrive in Malaga their V35 250GT for a cost so that they can test replacement parts I will be forever thankful. Cheers Guys!
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OK, so i have a 34, has all the china bolt on mods, high mount ffp power fc z32 afm 550cc denso etc started, dropped the timing belt mashed valves etc resolution, rebuilt the head now, wont run properly, symptoms WONT start cold with out "start ya bastard" missfires and stalls till at full temp wont make boost unless i feather the throttle hold it flat and it wont rev over 2400, or make positive pressure generally wont run without great difficulty im about to burn it to the ground. legit, i have another er34 im building and this one just sits in storage, bad things are going to happen any help is appreciated -
Hi All, I did a sub install last night and all was running fine until this morning I went to leave for work and my indicators won't work. when i move the lever it does not display anything on the dash, or make the "tick-tock" noise. however when hazards are pressed in all works fine? i have checked the fuse and replaced it with the spare, problem still persists. Upon researching i have heard this may be caused by the indicator stalk having worn contact points. has anybody experienced this or had similar issues?
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Hey guys looking for a bit of help or suggestions here, I have recently put a rb25det neo into my r32 sedan, wired it all up turned the key, the fuel pump primes but the starter motor does not turn over, click or do anything at all. There is no 12v going through the starter signal wire when I turn the key to start, I have checked the voltage at the starter motor signal wire connector and the signal wire pin behind the battery and these are both 0v when the key is turned to start. There is 12v going through the starter signal wire where it comes out of the ignition barrel and at the starter fuse when I turn the key to start, so I guess somewhere between the starter signal fuse and the engine bay there is something stopping the signal. The r32 was originally auto and converted to manual so the inhibitor plug behind the battery is bridged, the neo and loom was from an auto r34, simon-s14 spliced the loom for me, it is running a manual r34 gtt ECU and the car has a mongoose m60 alarm/immobiliser which seems to be functioning correctly. I'm not really sure what to check next to try and sort this out. If anyone has any ideas where to start that would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, -
R34 gtr boost limiter? Hey guys, so pretty much important myself a bayside blue 2000 r34 GTR, been super keen to get this car for the last couple months waiting, and today was the day to pick it up and drive it home, first 10 minutes car was a dream looked felt amazing just wanted I wanted, then... a problem started so symptoms are this, - start the car turbos/boost everything runs great, give it some gas and the turbos spool up to about 1 bar ( which I didn't think was stock boost settings but anyway ) then 5-10 minutes later I will go to just Accelerate normally and it will start to spool but when it gets to around .4 bar it will cut all the boost and the car will act like it has a speed limiter and not getting any air in, after that I had to keep driving the car in a higher gear to make sure it never gets into + boost because it would loss all power and not run, in 6th gear it will spool to around .2-3 bar at about 110 but as soon It gets over that bam cuts out again. if I turn the car off and back on, problem immediately goes away and car runs perfect again, then all of a sudden will start up again a couple of minutes later, watching the boost gage on MFD I can see it climbing into + boost then all of a sudden drops fully down ( with no wastegate noise or anything ) and the car staves for air. any ideas of what it could be would be amazing, it's kinda put a downer on my excitement for getting this car, and really hurts when I still have a 1000km trip home with no boost
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indicator lights will not turn off hey guys, so i recently had some problems with my 2003 v35 skyline coupe. my window was left down in the rain and my drivers side window stopped working. it was stuck down so i pulled off the door skin to try and get the window up. i was unable to do so i unpluged the battery to try and do a reset and when i re connected it my indicators were stuck on. not flashing but just stuck on solid. the only way to turn them off is to disconnect the battery. i have since replaced the window motor and switch. does anyone know what might be causing it?
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Hi, my 4wd in my stagea doesn't want to work with or without the 50/50 button pressed, sometimes there is both the 4wd and abs lamp on but I don't know how to check the codes, where does the ecu even sit? But the 4wd doesn't work even when the light isn't on when I spin the front wheel the axel to the gearbox does rotate, the oil for the attesa is there. I don't really know how to check if the pump is working or not. Help would me appreciated thanks
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Hey Guys, incredibly new to owning a turbo/import as well as not very knowledgeable at all mechanically. Picked up a R33 GTST a week ago. Driving last night I excellerated (not flat but still a bit) and there was a loud pop followed by the engine shutting off. I didn’t notice any smoke etc. left the car to sit for a few minutes and started it. Ran rough for the first start then quickly went back to a standard idle and ran well at low RPM. Nersed it home without hitting 0.00 bar. But if you try to excellerate more the it will not go at all over 0.00. Thinking it could have been a pipe that’s blown off, but a quick look at all the intercooler pipes look tight and okay. In saying this I haven’t taken off any covers etc of anything else. Engine wise car has few small modifications such as larger front mount, turbosmart E-boost street controller, different BOV, 3” Dump pipe and full exhaust, 200kw dyno time and has been really well taken care off service wise. is it likely I have blown the stock turbo? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Ok. So I've made another post about my car not idling properly, being generally rough and having hesitation when accelerating. Now, if you've seen my other post, you'll know that I've changed my spark plugs, put some spitfire coils in, cleaned the AFM and everything was running fine still. The car still ran and was drivable. Now, only since I took off the TPS and tried cleaning it, the car is no longer drivable. No freaking clue why my tps would do this, but now when I press the accelerator, the car almost dies. It's responding to the tps changing resistance, but it's as though it's being flooded with air or something. But when I press it, the idle doesn't go back up, it stays at that certain rpm range. The video of what I'm trying to explain is at the top. Really need some help as I need my car to at least be drivable for tomorrow. Cheers.
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Most likely one of the thousands of posts about idle problems with an RB engine. So, my r34 has been running like a dream. I've owned it for about 4 months, and never had a single problem. Put in a boost controller myself about 2 months ago, never had a problem. In the last week, my car has decided to drop to 500RPM when warm, and at a complete stop, and in the last day, it's done the same thing, but the idle was very rough and a bit up and down. Here's a video of my car idling, ignore the engine as for some reason on camera it comes out to be extremely loud, but IRL is a lot quieter for some reason. I just wanted you to focus on the exhaust pattern, as that's what I'm referring to when I say rough idle. This morning when I cold started it, it did the rough idle thing, dropped to 500RPM, and went rough, rough rough and then stalled for the first time ever, started it up 2 seconds later and was all good, started fine no worries. I took of the cam cover to check the timing belt, but it looks like it's in very good condition. No tears or anything. Here's the video: R34 idle Problems I'm in need of some feedback if possible, just some recommendations on what I should look to fix, maybe if someone has experience the same problem I'm having. Cheers heaps guys!
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Car - factory turbo auto series 2 r33 I am having some issues with boost after going full throttle. What seems to be happening is after doing 1 or 2 pulls typically in 3rd gear it will basically stop boosting the boost gauge will go up to maybe 3 or 4 so psi (running stock boost) and have the same constant exhaust note (loud drone) regardless of what gear it is in. To fix this i usually pull over turn the car off and wait 5 seconds then it returns to normal no constant exhaust note and boosts how it should. I think it might be worth noting the transmission Is pretty stuffed its the factory Auto gearbox and after warming up it will slip from 4th to 3rd with overdrive on and what sounds like 3rd slipping occasionally after heating up. I have changed the trans fluid and filter that seemed to prolong how long the gearbox took to slip. Any advice would be greatly appreciated i plan on manual swapping this car when i have the funds for a big box so if the trans is the issue it would be a relief.
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I have a RB30 with neo head and 3.4l stroker kit. A couple of mornings ago I started it like I do every morning to warm up before going to work. It was idling and just shut off for some unknown reason and wouldn't start up again. I thought it may have been the battery as it was only cranking at 9.3v, however I charged it and the voltage increased. So using the charged battery and also jumping off another car I tried to start it, no luck. Next I checked the fuel lines to make sure it's getting fuel, all good. Then I checked all the coil packs, all were sparking. Then I took all the plugs out and replaced them. Still no luck. The old plugs were covered in what seems like oil, I'm 99% sure it's oil (Picture Attached). I know very little about automotive but I do believe that's not a good sign. I tried cranking after replacing and the new ones were also covered in whatever it is. The engine has less than 10k on it. So the guy that built it reckons it's my immobilizer stopping it, but I haven't had a problem with it ever until now. The crank angle sensor, possibly? I have hooked up the ECU to check for error codes to no avail. Bit more about the car: Port & polished Garrett GTW6262R 1.15AR Flex tuned to 50% ethanol Haltech Platinum Pro ECU with IQ3 Splitfire Coilpacks Turbosmart FPR/Wastegate/BOV Also my oil light kept flicking on every now and then, although the oil seemed fine, may have something to do with it? This is driving me crazy, I'm not in a great financial position to take it to be looked at, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
