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Hi! I’m looking to replace my current turbo on my S1 RB25DET in order to make 600HP but maintain responsiveness. I’m looking at the HyperGear ATR43SS-3 in T3 .63 A/R or the Pulsar PSR3576 Gen2 T3 .82 A/R. I’m still learning how turbo sizes effect lag, response, and power band. I’m looking to see if anyone can share their experience with either of these turbos or can recommend another to meet my goal? These are my mods: • Running 91 octane most of the time and occasionally E85 on track days • top mount twin scroll manifold • 44mm external wastage • 1300CC fuel injectors • mishimoto intercooler M-line • 3in intercooler pipes • g-reddy intake manifold • link g4+ • NZWiring trigger kit • GTR R35 coilpacks • built bottom and top • 4” down-pipe and exhaust

So i've always had some sort of sport car reliable or unreliable, bug eye wrx, r32 gts-t, and 2 180sx's. Now finally set my mind on hoping to have a keeper, 1994 nissan pulsar gti-r. Bought it unregisted for about a month now, waiting on funds as its xmas and an apprentice its gonna take ages to get it past the mvr for rego. heres a pic of it

For sale is my 1999 Nissan Pulsar Plus - 1.6L 4cyl, 5 speed manual. Incredibly economical and cheap as chips to run. Has never missed a beat and is/was serviced regularly (full service history supplied). 12 months rego (July 2013) and RWC. Body is in excellent condition with no damage and no scratches. Surprising for a car of its age!! Not modified and comes unmolested. Perfect for people needing a cheap run around or a first car. Looking for $5,500 neg - (PM as per forum rules)

Hi all, Really hoping someone might have an idea on this issue. I've tried Pulsar specific forums but no luck. (backstory) Car wouldn't start, got NRMA (roadside assistance) out to jump start, and he tested the battery while car was running, to check alternator (14.## volts), he said alternator was OK, so we drove it home. Next morning, went to get a new battery, car started OK, but at autoparts store, they tested battery and came back 'bad'. Bought a new battery, installed it.... Basically car is idling/stalling, which I 'think' might have to do with replacing the battery. Starting the car, it would start, then die. Only way to get it to start is to apply a little accelerator. After a few seconds, remove acceleration and car would idle, poorly (probably around 500rpm +/-). If I accelerate (1-2k rpm), and release foot, rpm would drop right down <500rpm, almost stalling, then it would pop back up again. I thought maybe fuel was dirty, but Mum said she fueled up a few days ago, but didn't notice any issues. I checked air filter in case blocked, didn't seem to bad, a little dirty, but nothing suss. Checked oil in case was low, and maybe causing friction in cylinder.. probably very unlikely, or pointless, but figured why not, while I had the hood up. (oil was 50% full, but needs changing) I have heard that replacing a battery can turn the ECU dumb, causing it to have to relearn. I've come across a few procedures, but none seem to work; http://afiaustralia.com.au/images/stories/N16_pulsar_idle_fault.pdf https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/nissan-idle-relearn-procedure/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR-AjHCslhs https://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-ecu-relearning-procedures-t445702.html Following the steps in the 1st link, step #6 says to "disconnect Throttle position sensor (brown in colour) connector", but there is no brown connector, just a single green one. A service manual I found shows a diagram with a brown (throttle position sensor), and a Grey (closed throttle position switch), but our Pulsar just has a single green connector. When I disconnected / reconnnected that one, the accelerator went limp, couldn't rev the car. Had to turn car off for several seconds, then on again, now back to square one. I tried an OBDII reader too, just one of those ebay jobs, with the Torque (lite) Android app, but I got an error in Torque, still loaded into Torque, but pretty much nothing would connect (except acceleration, which maybe ran off protocol 3, which I think Torque said was OK). I tried OBDLink, but wouldn't work unless I had one of their readers. Also tried BlueDriver, but wouldn't detect my reader :/. Note: i just found this entry on wikipedia regarding the QG18DE engine; OBDII – On-board Diagnostic System (codes can be read/erased by a variety of readers, e.g. Actron blaZt). Nissan Pulsar N16 Models without EuroOBD in Australia do not have OBDII. If the car doesn't have OBDii reader.. what does it have? It has the port under the dash that connects a reader, so it must take something ? Vehicle is a 2003 Nissan Pulsar N16 Auto 1.8L QG18DE engine. Thoughts ? Thanks in advance.

Item Description: Stock N15 S2 SSS Location: Melbourne Kilometers: 246,000 Item Condition: Good, Excellent for the kms Reason for selling: Company car, already have a weekender Price and price conditions: $4700 Extra Info: I've had the car since 2010 (182,000kms), second owner. Just had it serviced and also recently did some maintenance, includes RWC. Rego July 2013. 5x Bridgestone ER300 tyres, less than 2000kms old (previous set lasted 60,000kms) New NGK O2 sensor (nothing wrong, old one was just dirty) VZR foglights with genuine switch and covers. Paint is in good nick, photos dont really do it justice. More images: http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...psc2aaa631.jpg http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...pseaf3c024.jpg http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...pse840168c.jpg http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4729e3c3.jpg http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4c1193b3.jpg http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...pse352deb1.jpg

This is an ad for a friend (its an amazing machine). Please contact him and not me. Item Description: Pulsar 93 Jap Spec SSS converted AWD / GTi-R RB hybrid Location: Melbourne Kilometers: 138000 Item Condition: Stunning in most respects, see extra info for more. Reason for selling: I want someone else to continue the dream Price and price conditions: Offers (around $12K) Extra Info: This was once another members project car, started in 2004 and completed the major modifications in 2007. I bought it in 2008 as I had gone as far as I could with my U13 FWD Jap Spec and this seemed the logical next step. Since buying it in it's "project" state I spent a further $9K in sorting out and strengthening the diffs and the gearbox. I also redid the intercooler and put on a GTi-R bonnet. This allowed me to put in Air Conditioning (recently serviced 3 months ago for $650). Interior needed to be redone with new carpets etc as some parts had gone missing in the last "strip out". The car was off the road for quite a long time and lately the car has been driven on weekends mostly. It has never been my daily driver but saying that it drives perfectly in traffic etc and I am still smiling after a 2 hour expedition to Geelong. I just paid the rego in Feb and realised that I am being selfish for holding on to it as someone else could appreciate a bit of PGA history and give it the love I wish I had the time to give it. Therefore "this is the year I sell" and it will also be the first time in 10 years I have not owned a Jap Spec SSS. Here was the write up from the previous owner that captures perfectly the essence of why this car was built: A significant amount of money was spent on the car, I knew back when I started I would never make any of it back, it was planned to be a all-purpose daily driver. Two vehicles were used in the creation, a fully intact RB spec GTi-R purchased for this purpose, and my original '93 model Jap spec SSS. Neither of the vehicles were crashed or damaged before the conversion. Specs and parts are as follows: - GTiR RB Drivetrain/Gearbox (with front mechanical LSD), in conjunction with standard middle/rear LSDs. This drivetrain in conjunction with the suspension kit and better weight distribution (compared with a standard GTi-R) results in significant power oversteer, especially in the wet, so I would suggest a more experienced driver. - GTiR Model SR20DET straight out of above vehicle with 80,000km at the time of the conversion. Engine is otherwise unmodified. - Turbo is an GT2871R (bigger 440hp model) with HPC coated exhaust manifold and turbo ex housings. - APEXI AVC-R Boost controller. - Brakes are standard GTi-R brakes running Bendix ultimate pads all around. - Walbro GSS341 fuel pump - Exhaust is custom dual 2" system, a split dump pipe into 2" straight from the turbo to the rear mufflers, i.e. 2x catalytic converters, 2x resonators, and 2x mufflers, this was done to quiten down the system while trying not to restricting flow. The bumper had modifications done for the dual mufflers, in a "tasteful" way (i.e. no cannons), atm there are no tips on the mufflers. - Full GTi-R whiteline works suspension kit with Koni yellow adjustable shocks - Cusco front strut brace - Nismo front brake master cylinder brace - Full respray in Turbine Mica Grey (a heavy metallic-pearl grey colour used on the higher spec Commodores/HSVs). - Webasto Hollandia Sunroof (Stratos 700 model) with rolled edge roof (no ugly 'rubber trimming' like on most aftermarket sunroofs) - Genuine GTi-R front aluminium 'scuff plate' - N15 SSS Wheels (Lenso P600 are currently for sale separately) As it was never completed this vehicle is NOT ENGINEERED. It is however still registered and had a roadworthy after the completion, but it is adviseable that it be engineered if it was desired to be a daily driver (especially for insurance purposes). The car has current Victorian registration and insurance until January '14. For the bad points, well of course the engineers. There is also a rust bubble patch on the leading edge of the GTi-R bonnet as well as a paint blemish on the top of the drivers side C Pillar. The 2 front seats are dirty / marked (but I have put covers on them). There is no head unit or amp (but the speakers and tweeters are in there). The car could do with a dyno and tune as the Apexi has never been fully tuned / set up. I did have it mounted "stealth" in the sunvisor though. The previous owner and I totalled up the money he had spent to date and stopped when it hit $42,000, even things like the sunroof was $2500. Considering I have done most of the hard work (apart from the engineering) and spent an extra $9,000 you can see that this car has had some serious $$$ spent on it. With that in mind I am looking for $12K. https://www.dropbox.com/s/lf4b0li0t4a2hha/IMG_5370%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/fy3jqqtj4naq3ea/IMG_5374%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/u0v0gryqqmbw619/IMG_5373%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/o9ldxumxedrn30c/IMG_5356%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/pghrs02hdh3maog/IMG_5401%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/smay7vmjixx10o3/IMG_5405%20%28Small%29.JPG Happy to chat on the phone 0438 543 738. David.

For Sale: GTiR PowerFC with commander (hand controller) - plug included $850 SOLD new belts - $15 each (6PK1175, 5PK0840, 5PK0825, 4PK955, 4PK860, 4PK855, 4PK775) GTiR turbo manifold - SOLD 2x NEW OEM SR20 PCV valves - $15 each N14/15 Whiteline rear swaybar end links w/ bushes (used but good condition) - $40 FWD SR20Distributor cap (not much oxidisation) - $30 SSS 15/16" master cylinder - $30 N15 ABS unit and relays - $20 Timing chain (off GTiR) - $20 SR20 water pump pulley - $15 16x GTiR retainers - $20 for all 1x GTiR cam gear - $10 N15 ECU plastic cover/enclosure thing - $10 Rocker cover gasket (used) + spark plug O-rings (new) - $30 Valve steam seals (exhaust & intake, new) - $40 Intake gaskets (from GTiR, might fit others) - $20 each 2x graphite exhaust gaskets - $10 each Various turbo gaskets - $10 each for metal, $5 each for others Graphite head gasket - $20 metal head gasket - $40 GTiR OEM oil cooler - $30 GTiR sandwich plate (for running remote oil filter, fittings included) - $30 Earl's remote oil thermostat w/ fittings - SOLD Remote oil filter relocation kit w/ hose fittings - $40 Greddy PRofec B spec II with remote switching system Includes all plugs and required wires, air fittings, Greedy 3-port boost control solenoid (with mounting base), dash unit, remote switching receiver and remote switch. Condition: Good Location: Rowville, VIC Price: $260. SOLD Greddy Turbo Timer Includes plugs and wiring. Condition: Good Location: Rowville, VIC Price: $40 SOLD Bee*R rev limiter Condition: Good Location: Rowville, VIC Price: $180. SOLD