Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'pump'.
-
From the album: Random
-
I have a 500hp r34 gtr and I guess its time to upgrade the oil pump gears to something stronger that can handle rev limiter and shock. I've been looking for billet gears and came over the plazmaman gears for about $380, but then I saw Reimax had some Chromoly steel gears for about $250 parts number: 15110-AAR11-81. How is the strenght on these? Anyone heard about these shattering? Is chromoly steel as strong as billet? I have the oem 05u oil pump so the 81mm should fit?
-
Ok, so, I've been having problems with starting my 98 R33 Gts-t recently. It can vary from turning over and never firing to starting but running very poorly and stalling to working fine seemingly at random. On more than one occasion, by playing with the fuel pump wiring, fuse or plug the car will start and run perfectly, i do not know if this is the actual problem because it seems so intermittent however, i do know that the car will run roughly/stall without the fuel pump plugged in (I swear I didn't forget to connect it, i was "testing"). If anyone has had a problem similar to this and fixed it that would be great to hear but being vague and intermittent I don't hold much hope. The real meat of this post is, if i were to replace the pump is there a nice drop in replacement that doesn't cost and arm and a leg while not being from the Chinese lucky dip bag on ebay? my other thought was to upgrade to a Walbro 255 (GSS340) or a Bosch 040 because eventually my plan is to buy something reliable and diesel (and high off the ground so ramps aren't necessary for everything ) and throw some money into this car so i figured i may as well plan for power as i'm most likely to get a new car within a year. But i have read mixed things about both the bosch and walbro from a general trawl through the forums, is there a clear winner? Also if i do end up going this option, do I have to upgrade the wiring to the pump and what is the best way to go about this, my thoughts are to use the current power wires to trigger a separate fused relay. Anyway, thanks in advanced for any help Joe
-
Anyone have a lead on what wires on the R32 fuel pump plug are what. The R32 fuel pump plug is a 6 pole 5 wire plug whereas the R34...well that's just it, I don't know. Backstory, I gutted my R32 chassis and engine harnesses and ran an R34 chassis harness with the intention of running the fuel pump on the R34 connections, low and behold someone snipped the connectors to the fuel pump so now I'm stuck with my dick in my hand trying to sort out what's what. The chassis harness came out of a 4 door GTT, I'm anticipating the R34 dash, instrument cluster and other parts to arrive shortly so I can start doing the swap. My plan (assuming that I'm correct) is to just pop out wires and repin the blue R32 fuel pump plug. From what I am guessing, the R34 fuel pump has two plugs that go to it, a 2 pin and a 4 pin. I could be entirely wrong. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any pictures close up of anyone's R34 fuel pump assembly with the wires. Even so there's still a few plugs missing on the harness that I need to sort out. Anyone with an R34 could be really helpful right now to decipher what's what.
-
Hey guys, im fairly new to the forums but i had a brand new Gates Timing Belt and water pump kit with all seals and gaskets needed todo the job. I paid 360$ with shipping around a year back for the kit, but i never got around to needing to use it as i barely drive my r34. I have attached a picture for you to see, Item:Gates Timing Belt+Water Pump Kit Location: Western Sydney Price: $340 O.N.O(On Negotiable Offer) This kit suits rb25det engines and as far i am aware it fits rb26 as well but confirm with a professional before purchasing. Make me an offer as i need cash and dont need this lying around. -
Hi guys and girls, Does anybody have a HR31 fuel pump bracket and sender laying around that they would sell to me? I don't need the pump, just the bracket and sender unit. Thanks, Geoff.
-
HEY ALL, I'm new to the scene, finally a PROUD SKYLINE OWNER ! I hope i'm writing this in the right topic as i'm not much of a forum guy and my English is not the best either. Now i have been wanting to buy a skyline for the last 15 years at least ( i'm 33 now) i'm from Germany originally and it was an utter fortune to get one over there. As i made Australia my home now my dream finally came true. So i recently purchased a bargain manual R34 GT-T , rb 25detneo with 106000-km and its pretty much factory stock. - Now i'm getting a a high but steady oil reading at 135c after a few minutes driving (normaly :-D) - also the water reading is at 120c (steady) The engine seams to run super smooth the needle doesn't move in idle, there are no noises from the engine what so ever. the oil gauge on the main dash sits less then halfway . I got a service done after purchase at a trusted mechanic (even though he said he doesn't really know (those cars) ? the only issue he mentioned was a small oil leak from the O-ring at the Oil-Cooler and also a small oil leak from the engine rocker cover gasket. Now after a lot of research i was hoping to get some input from you guys on what to do. i have order a new engine rocker cover gasket still trying to find the O-Ring, to get that sorted, but i'm not shure if that will fix the high readings , should i just go and buy a quality OIL cooler (not the cheap shit) and maybe a good water-pump?! Also can anyone recommend a mechanic with skyline experience in the Sydney area ? JUST-JAP gave me a number to call of one of their trusted mechanics but he never seems to pick up the phone :-) Thanks for reading any help would be much appreciated ! Thanks Pete
-
all items located in blakeview SA - RB25DET motor that has been previously opened as I intended to forged rebuild it, I had to move interstate so I loosely bolted it back together as the moving company wouldn't move an engine but they would move the car with or without it. the engine does need to be rebuilt and will come with new rings and bearings, the intake manifold, throttle body, nismo 555cc injectors, a tomei cam gear on the exhaust side, gates racing timing belt. the motor was on 107xxxKM before it was stripped. the motor DOES need to be re built $700 ONO or 800 with crane and stand I also have a few other parts as well: -extreme 6 puck solid button clutch with a extra heavy duty pressure plate, used but in near new condition - $300 ONO -SPOOL H beam forged conrods to suit RB25 and 26. - $500 ONO - SCA engine crane and stand, for both $250 ONO -standard RB25 coil packs. $50 ONO - R33 RB25 engine loom. $50 ONO - all off RB25: starter motor power steering pump alternator aircon pump flywheel R32 engine mount brackets STD AFM cam angle sensor clutch fan ↑ all $20 each or make an offer I am open to offers but please don't waste my time with ridiculous offers, feel free to ask any questions PM me on here to get in touch -
I have known for a long time that my 4wd doesn't work. with the ignition on and trying to do the attesa bleeding procedure my pump will not ever come on. i have 2 issues i believe, firstly, my pump has siezed up and i know this because i have bypassed the big relay in the boot and can not get the pump to start even whacking it the same way that frees up a fuel pump usually whilst bypassing the relay and giving the pump power. but i believe it has siezed because the ecu is not ever closing the relay. i have tested the relay on the battery and it is very noisy when it clicks closed. i can not hear the relay click closed when the ignition is turned to on which i have heard many other r32 gtr 4wd systems prime the pump every ignition cycle. i'm not getting any codes unless i induce a fault like unplugging the pump or a relay, so my ecu believes all is well and my front torque guage is operating correctly. my theory, my attesa ecu or wiring loom is stuffed and therefore the relay never closes and my pump is never getting used and that's why it has siezed up. any opinions would help. i should try another ecu and see if it closes the terminals on the relay and when all else is working well i should replace the pump, right?
-
I'm selling the below parts off my GTT. They are all the old parts I had laying around after doing my last upgrades, most are in great condition. Rear suspension | R34 GTT (fork type) - JIC Magic (Left seems to have lost pressure), otherwise excellent condition, no rubber cracks at all - $200 Stock internal fuel pump for R34 GTT - $50 Stock air flow meter - $50 Stock cat converter - $50 Stock mirrors in gloss black, great condition but right mirror is missing the plastic that connects to door - $50 Return flow intercooler 600x240x60, excellent condition - $200 Rear seat belts with coils, excellent condition - $50 Rear stock seats, slight staining on seats but can probably be cleaned - $150 Stock right head light, none xenon, broken clips and floating clear plastic bit on inside - $200 I have pictures of everything so just send me a text on 0431516718 and I'll send a picture of whichever part. Pickup from Adelaide or bank deposit+postage at buyers expense. Cheers, Tom
-
For sale are some rb26 parts, as i'm putting the standard parts back in before selling my r32 gtr, to fund my new bike and super-motard setup for this year. Posting from townsville. Contact email: [email protected] text: 0434916740 NEW Supertech Pistons 86.5mm/8.5cr $550 All parts below have done just under 8000km. HKS Stage 1 cams with unknown adjustable cam gears $500 Tomie Dump Pipes $400 Spool Rods $450 Ross Tuffbond metal jacket balancer $400 Mines cam Baffles $200 Fuel Rail & Aeroflow fuel pressure regulator $200 RC Fuel injectors 750cc with clips $400 Nismo rb26 oil pump $800 Supertech Dual Valve Springs With ti-retainer $400 (also comes with inner washers to go between head and spring) Old Oem Valves $ make a offer
-
Hi all, Iv been looking around, and cant seem to find anyone having done this. My concern is, when I shut the car off, after a minute I can hear water start to bubble, not like sizzle at all but just pop away slowly. It did it with the garrett and with the new efr. The lines come from factory points, are free from blockage etc. Im wondering if a small transfer pump hooked into the line would be of benefit, to get more water going faster. Or if its not worth worrying about. So has anyone heard of it being done? What pump would work? Is it a problem? - more to the point of getting air in the system. Thoughts?
-
Hi guys. On the weekend I did the cam belt, tensioners + water pump on my gts25t with brand new 'genuine' Nissan parts. All went smoothly and the car was running fine till this afternoon + a bit of 'spirited' driving caused this: The crack runs about 240degrees around the shaft and there is a chip out of it as you can see. My question is obvious, WHY? Was my alternator belt so tight it caused this? I didn't use a belt tensioner but I know it wasn't overly tight and the belt is in good condition as is the alternator pulley. Or was the water pump a faulty product? Can anyone confirm if it is 'genuine' based on this number? I just want to get a heads up before I go back to the seller.
-
Hi all, I am running an RB25DET Neo in my R32 and using the R34 power steering pump and reservoir. I have added a power steering cooler into the low pressure return line as can be seen in the pictures but apart from that it is exactly the same as factory. The problem i am having is that i think i have a huige airlock in the system. My power steering pump is making some terrible noises and my mechanic mate said that it is trying to pump air through the system and tats wy it sounds like that. I am inclined to believe him as i had the whole power steering system apart when i took the engine out and it had absolutely no power steering fluid left in it when i put it all back together, so it seems i had perfect conditions to create and airlock in the system. Many tutorials say to jack the car up, pour the P/S fluid in the reservoir and then turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and just let the system bleed itself and work the air out, but this is not working for me at all. Even with the wheels in the air there is resistance when trying to turn the steering wheel. And obviously it is even harder with the wheels on the ground. With the wheels in the air i have turned it lock to lock probably 200 times and it seems to make no difference at all to how it behaves. My mate said that there could be a bleed nipple or something similar on the power steering rack itself that i can use to bleed the system but from doing a little searching nobody has ever made mention of a bleed point on the power steering rack itself. The only theory that i have at the moment is that it is my power steering cooler causing the airlock. I will get some photos tomorrow of how i have it set up, but basically i have it upside down in the front bar (ie, the power steering lines run up to it to connect to the barbs rather than down to it) Any help ideas would be greatly appreciated as i am really a bit stumped at the moment. I don't want to have to drive it round to work the air out as it is making some truly terrible sounds at any revs haha :|
-
Hi, So, I spent some time replacing the pre filters in my sytec bullet filters This is the state of the paper filter that came out: - Disgusting.. I replaced with: - This could be the reason why the fuel pressure was dropping at high rpm/boost on the dyno after there was some residual heat in the system but I'll keep track of it because there could be a number of other reasons. I didn't bother changing the lift pump filter as I think that these don't tend to get that dirty and it's not been in long. Literally, 7000rpm @ 1.8bar after about 8 pulls on the dyno and fuel pressure was dropping from 8bar to 5bar and going lean which meant stopping for the day; I needed to get this fixed so it didn't get worse. It could still be a problem or the problem could just have been vapourising due to the pressure and heat from having an 8micron filter before the pump. So that paper filter in the image is 8 microns which was sitting before the 044 bosch pump. This isn't really ideal, as I've subsequently found out that it can cause the pump to work quite a lot harder and could limit life (probably causing some level of vapour lock as well). What I've done is dropped in a stainless steel 55micron pre filter into the sytec bullets I've checked with a few other sources and I'm getting some conflicting responses; some people are saying that 55micron filtering of fuel is sufficient and most modern cars don't even have fuel filters! Others are saying that you need to filter further to reduce the risk of damaging the injectors. I don't really think I should be filtering pre pumps at 8micron though, that's for sure. The current setup is: - 450lph walbro lift pump into swirl pot which feeds 2x bosch 044 fuel pumps (both pre filtered by sytec bullet filters - now 55 micron/was 8), which then goes to the greddy injector rail and feeds both sides. The injectors are ID1000s and do not have the adapters which filter at 7micron per injector. Any advice would be appreciated; I'd also be really interested to know how some of the other big power cars support fuelling and where the filtering is performed. I guess the point probably is that race cars break and get repaired and thus it's outweighing the costs with the safety measures. Thanks!
-
Up for sale I have stock parts, all in good working condition, all parts came off a 1997 R33 GTST. Make an offer, reasonable offers wont be refused. Standard Series 2 rear wing in silver (working break light included) $40 Aftermarket fiberglass Du-Luck side Skirts (painted silver, small crack but cant be seen when fitted) $80 Boot Lid (no wing, no lock, White) ***FREE*** Standard fuel pump $10 Standard exhaust cam gear $10 Standard injectors $90 Standard rear sway bar $20 Standard ECU $120 Standard cam shafts $50 X-Force muffler $30 Rear series 1 garnish $10 Standard coil packs $120 Standard indicators front guard $10 Standard rear rotors $15 All parts located south east Melbourne Prefer pick up...if not buyer can arrange postage I have photos of all the above parts...message me if you require pictures Thanks -
R33 / R34 non-vspec GTR Attesa Pump As above, willing to pay shipping. Must be non-vspec.
-
R33 air con pump and bracket Wtb: r33 aircon pump and bracket, not looking to pay much! Location; Fraser coast
-
R32 Attesa Problem Hello! I know there are a lot of attesa posts here but i never found something for my problem (correct me if im wrong). On my car the 4x4 and the abs light is on, so i checked the attesa fluid in my trunk and it was way under the minimum and i thought that may be the problem! So i refilled it with an oil with the same caracteristics as NISSAN MATIC D. Then i opened the bleed nipple in front to bleed the system unplugging the plug behind the drivers kick panel. Doing that i hear the relais in the trunk clicking five times but nothing else happens! So i tried shorting the red and the yellow cable on the relais and the pump starts priming but no oil comes out the bleeding nipple. I then bought a new battery and tried with that. The first time i started the car with the bleeding nipple open the pump started priming and oil came out. I switched the car off and closed the bleeding nipple and retried but nothing happened and the 4x4 and abs light was still on. Since i had to close the bleeding nipple while the oil was coming i thougt now there may be air in the system. Now i retried starting the car but again the pump was not priming and again shorting the relais makes the pump prime but nothing comes. The pump even sounds like its priming without oil but the resevoir is filled. I hope someone can help me and sorry if i made any mistakes!
-
AI SP1200 Surge Tank and Holley Dominator Pump Hi Guys, I have for sale my AI SP1200 Surge Tank and Holley Dominator Pump. Was running this setup in my car for the last year or so during which time it's done maybe 3000km's total so not much at all. Was providing plenty of fuel for the 470awkw setup I had at the time whilst being next to silent (couldn't hear it inside the car). As the Holley Dominator is technically 2 pumps you can run them in a staged setup which is how I had it which keeps fuel temps down when you don't need a lot of fuel. All working perfectly when removed and comes mounted on a nice little plate ready to be installed. The only reason I have removed it is this system will cap out at around 650awkw or so and I need something a little larger for my new setup. Price is 1000 ONO. Item is located in Rouse Hill, NSW and pickup is preferred over post. Any questions contact me here on SMS/Call 0403858714. Thanks, Brett -
The aircon pump in my R33 died a few months ago, so I'm looking around for a working replacement in good condition. Note the aircon pumps do vary across Skyline models, so please check if the part number is an exact match to "506221-1102" Airconditioning Compressor ZEXEL Type DKV-14D Part No 506221-1102 Nissan Part No KLHOO-PAGRO PM me if you have one available. I'm in Melb the week of the 15thDec, so can pay cash if you are located in Melb. Otherwise via PayPal. Cheers, Blair
-
RB26dETT Team, I currently have an N1 oil pump, but understand that they can be unreliable in an RB26DETT. Are the Tomie Oil Pumps still the way to go for an RB26DETT as per previous threads? The engine is out. Should I upgrade? Thanks. JB
-
Tomei or N1 Oil Pump? HI I have established that my original 92 rb26dett oil pump cant keep up. I will get up there in the RPM range (5k-6k) and i suddenly lose all oil pressure. Dropped to 0 on me at 6K. Im now looking into the tomei or N1 r34 oil pump. Or even a electric external pump. What do you think will be my best bet. Thanks.
-
I can't find any online, is there another cars pump I can use? -
Hey guys so I just changed my power steering pump and it's making a kind of whirring noise. There are no leaks and I just put in some new power steering fluid. The noise has kind of gone down now after I let it run for a bit. Anyone know what it is? Here's the video:
