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Showing results for tags 'r32gtst'.
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so i was driving home the other night, coasting at 80kmh, so just feathering the throttle when i noticed my car would pick up then back off, pick up then back off.......by itself without me pressing the pedal further. any ideas??
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Is anyone wrecking an R32? I'm looking for the weather shield retainer for a 2 door. Both driver and passenger side. Would prefer someone in Sydney, NSW so I can pick up.
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R32gtst So I've decided to buy a r32! I'm pre approved for a loan but only have 2 weeks to use it. I have the option of about 3 cars. 2 of them have rb25det but run RB20 transmissions. And 1 has the standard rb20 The 2 rb25det are around the $10-12k and the other is $6k I have a budget of around $15k Question is am I better of buying the 25 swapped ones and spending a few thousand on mods. Trying to reach the 250kw -280kw with a budget of around $5k Or buying the rb20det one and having around $9k to spend and doing a 25/26swap ? The car will be only used as a weekender and maybe a track day once a year. And whatever one I get will be upgraded over the next few years.
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R32 actutor on R34 with gnd solenoid Hi guys, I've spent a few hours searching for this exact setup and haven't really found anything. I have a R34gtt with a full 3" exhaust. I have fitted the r32 gtst actuator. My question is, if I ground the original dual stage solenoid an have it connected what boost should I see? Has anyone done this? I have a afc neo and wideband to smoothen out flat/rich spots etc. Cheers for any info!
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Hey what's going on I'm new to this site just purchased my first Skyline. It's a 1992 R32 gtst with a rb25 Neo swap. I'm looking to put her away this winter and build her up. Right now I'm looking into body kits. Hopefully I find a decent company producing some good work. Would really love a 324 kit.
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Hello, So at my last track day a couple weeks ago everything was going fine but after a couple sessions all of a sudden when i was pulling into the paddock, my car would not idle at all and had horrible misses below 2k rpm. Everywhere else in the rev range it ran fine an did not break up. Now I've done some testing so I went with the simple stuff first: plugs gapped right, r8 coils(deletes the ignitor). That did nothing. So then i replaced my coolant temp sensor and checked tps voltage, that fixed the idle issue. So I went to check my timing. With the light the first time i checked the marks were so far past advanced that it would have been blown up by now, so I was confused and shut the car off to have a drink. Came back and started it up again to look and now it was a little past the last mark at 30* degrees and was able to get it to 20, with the cas retarded almost all the way it allowed me too. I then went for a test drive and the car ran fine but when pulling it out of the driveway it died. I pulled it in to check the timing and it was the same at 20*. So i went to drive again and got out on the road and got on it, it reved up fine and built boost with no missing, but felt like it had legitimately zero power, and off throttle it gurgled a bit. I replaced my cas and that changed nothing. I'm stumbled at this point. Any pointers?? Thanks for any help.
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Hello All, I have a quick question, I just bought some wheels for my 4door skyline, they’re 17x8 +30 and the website I bought them from (figment industries) has a thing where you put your car model in and if it has stock brakes suspension etc in it and it gives you wheels that SHOULD fit. I bought the wheels and when I went to put on the front ones, the wheel spikes hit on the front STOCK brake calipers. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so how can I fix it or what wheels do I need to get/ specs so the spokes clear the caliper. My stock wheels already are very close to the caliper as is so I’m kind of lost as to what to do. It seems the stock caliper in the front are huge! Thank you guys, I also know that people have put rpf1’s on it because I’ve seen pics of gtst’s with them but idk what specs to get to have them not hit on the spokes