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Showing results for tags 'r33'.
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Replaced two of my power steering lines between the reservioir and chucked a seal kit in the PS pump. Now I have no Power Steering. The Hicas diagnosis comes up as Error 22 - Steering angle sensor. My question is, is the Steering angle sensor the clock spring? My car is a series 2 r33 GTST with no modifications to the steering system. I still have Hicas and the stock steering wheel. -
Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?
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Any Skyline owners metal heads? Hey, a music forum page here, cool! I am thinking that surely some Skyline heads who like their cars with speed, power, and grunt, who would like their music the same way? The two go well together. Try listening to some ripping speed / thrash / death metal while ripping up the road in a speed machine, Hehehe, what a blast. Been into metal since my good ol' high school days (and I'm pushing 50 now, how some things never change) , and listen to it all (well, most of it all, as there's some stuff that some people call metal, which I do not) from classic metal, to power metal (I'm talking real power, not the flowery false stuff) , speed / thrash, and death metal. Will be good to see some other metal heads here. I'll post some play lists soon. Won't be light reading though, Hehehe.
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G'day peeps, My name is Bill, I've recently acquired a series 2 96 R33 gtst. A quick intro about myself, I started off vehicle ownership with an RX4 coupe back in the mid 90's, built and modded it to a respectable 135rwkw in n/a form, was pretty quick and p plate legal. Drove that for around 5 years, also had an RX2 coupe I was building at the same time that was never finished. In the early 2000's I was moving homes to somewhere that didn't have much garage space so I sold off all the rotaries and bits and pieces I had. I then thought I would be responsible and drive a normal looking car, so I bought a vtss ls1 6spd commodore. Did some minor mods to it, zorst, intake, wheels, low, and remap. Drove that for over a decade and finally came to my senses and decided to buy another japper. I was initially looking into RX8's but quickly realised the engines where rubbish. I started to think about what else I could get that was rwd and decently powered and settled for a 2001 adm S15 200sx. I did the usual mods one does and ended up with a decently quick 218rwkw street/track car. Did a few track days and was having a blast. I wanted to do a phillip island day so I joined SAU and did the June 14 track day. It was going well and managed to do a 1.58 in my second session. Car had a few more seconds in it easy. I missed the 3rd session as I was gas bagging with others and lost track of what was going on. I went out in the 4th session and tried to go a bit too hard, too early at the end of the first lap and ended up going off on the inside of turn 12 and slamming the flag marshalls tyre barrier. This was the end of the S15. The S15 was then stripped and sold off. With the proceeds I was able to buy and mod my new ride which is a clean R33 GTST. It was mechanically 100% stock other than coilovers and nismo cat back but the previous owner liked cosmetics and did a fair bit to the body. Photos coming. -
So in trying to track down my intermittent idle issue on my R33 gtst, I noticed that the exhaust manifold ground lead looks pretty old and frayed. I know 2 things about wiring, one that a good ground is important and the other is I know pretty much nothing else about wiring...so was going to run some ground leads from the block to chassis...could someone point me in the right direction of the best sort of wire to use, and best points to do it from? Like I said don't know alot about it, so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
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Hi All I’m Rene, based in Hamilton NZ and am the owner of a silver 1996 R33 coupe. I bought the car in August 2009 and I am the first owner in NZ. When I first purchased the car, it was a bone stock gts25t automatic with approximately 75,000kms on the clock. From memory I paid about $8,600 from the dealer: Mod History So over the years I have done a few modifications. The first real mod I did was wheels (on stock shocks) and tints: Now this was done prior to finding out about SAU/SDU, meaning I had no understanding about things like fitment, so was rolling round in 4x4 spec for some time.. Eventually I became a bit more educated (thanks to the forums) and started to do things a bit better. Rather than write a novel of the last 13 years of ownership, I thought I’d just add the list of mods: Exedy lightweight flywheel Exedy full face organic clutch Braided clutch line Adjustable whiteline swaybars (front and rear) Znoelli dimple drilled and slotted brakes with performance pads (front and rear) Braided brake lines (front and rear) BC Gold adjustable suspension Hicas lock bar Tomei upgraded fuel pump Genuine Greddy front mount intercooler kit 3” exhaust from turbo back, with 3” bellmouth dump R34 OP6 turbo Mishimoto aluminium radiator ATP catch can and speedflow fittings 17x10r and 17x9f wheels with Falken fk452 all round Innovate mtx range gauges (oil, wideband and boost) Funnily enough, this list was actually composed to add to the classified to sell it, however I just can’t bring myself to do it. Did you say M3 @Dose Pipe Sutututu? Anyway, this brings us to the current day The car now has 105,000ks and is barely used as I just don’t have time and it doesn’t really suit being my daily (as I need something more suitable to visit construction sites). I don’t think I have even driven it in the past 12 months.. Build Direction The plan here is to go for a bit of an OEM+ type vibe, so nothing too extreme. I am also planning to modernise a lot of the vehicle with things like new ECU (decided on Haltech), DBW, cruise control etc. The power will eventually get increased with an end goal of around 280-330kw. I am keen to get a bit more motivation and actually get this car build back up and going again. It may not be the fastest build, but I’ll get there eventually! And then I’m less likely to try sell it..
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Brand new, no longer needed These retail over $500-Asking 380 FPR2000 (there largest in that model) can flow huge power, only mod is AN3 vacuum port-Driven less that 5k’s bexley area -
Hi everyone, i Need to replace my Front Lower Ball Joints. I got the old ones out of the FCA and now i‘m having a Hard Time to get the new ones in. i measured the diameter of the FCA, which is 40,3mm. The new Ball Joints are 41,3mm. The Supplier confirmed that These are the Right diameters. i cooled down the Ball Joints and heated up the FCA. They still won‘t fit in (using a hydraulic press), which doesn‘t suprise me Because of the 1mm oversize. How did u manage to get these in?? car is a 33 gtst.
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Looking for a 1995 gts25-t with this body kit on it or just the body kit itself would also be a option I would consider -
Before you say this has been covered, I have exhausted over an hour today trying to navigate this site and going through greddy install diy posts. I don't need help on the full install I am fine with that I am confused on one aspect. Every greddy plenum I see installed in photos online do not show the aac valve connected to the pipe preceding the throttle body. When I look at the diy or other forum topics none of the images load, whether that's because the post is from over 10 years ago I'm not sure. If anyone can confirm what they did with their aac valve when installing a greddy plenum I'd greatly appreciate it. My tuner has heavily recommended I keep this for a number of reasons, suffice to say he is one of the best in qld. Car details - Rb25det - linkg4x - greddy plenum - high mount turbo gt35 - 1000cc injectors - forged pistons rods etc Situation - Street use and drift car at the track, not a daily car but would prefer to keep a/c and cold start. If anyone has any reccomendations, id appreciate it as i said. It doesnt make sense to me putting this into the pipe preceding the throttle body on top as its ugly and i csnt see that on any other setup, unless everyone runs it underneath or not at all im very confused... 😁
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Hey guys, Currently in the market looking to purchase a clean history r33 gtr. I'm open to colours,series and mods as long as the car is clean and hasn't been bashed up/rusted. If you are considering selling please hit me up! Located in Victoria but willing to travel for the right car. Have cash waiting
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Hi I'm having trouble with my bov. Got it all recirculated but when I put the vacuum line on the bov I get no boost. The previous owner had blocked the bov and had the vacuum line running back to the other lines. Could it be the bov has a big leak? Sorry still new to turbo cars. It's a r33 with a rb25det. Cheers
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Hi SAU, Having boost related issue with my BCNR33. Car is making no boost! Triple gauge is registering vacuum, needle moves from negative to 0kg/cm2. Car drives normally, no sputtering or misfiring. AFRs also reading normal. Acceleration feels normal up until 3500rpm or so where you can begin to feel the lack of grunt. No woosh sounds either, just the sound of the HKS mushrooms sucking air. Just a little background on the car: HKS2530s, 2.8, E85, VIPEC V88, ~20psi max boost, 4in Exhaust. Recently had front turbo oil feed replaced by mechanic due to the old one being cracked. Got car back from them on a Sat and it was boosting fine but felt a little underpowered. Didn't drive car again till Wed. This is when is stopped boosting all together. Didn't hear any bang/pop, didn't notice any smoke either. Currently waiting to hear back from mechanic. In the mean time have inspected piping on both hot and cold sides (also checked FMIC piping behind indicator grilles) for potential boost leak, however wasn't able to find anything loose or hissing. Doing a little research on these forums leads me to believe that it could be a blown turbo or a blocked/malfunctioning CAT. All of the posts regarding no boost and blown turbos usually are owners with ceramic wheel turbos, which mine aren't. With my limited mechanical knowledge and tools I've taken as much piping as I can to check the turbos. The front turbo looks okay? It spins freely and has no shaft play. Don't have the tools to check the rear turbo as I can't get that elbow looking thing off to inspect the wheel. I'm yet to inspect the CAT. Question: If one turbos blown will I be getting half the amount of full boost or just no boost at all? Question: What are the chances of the CAT causing the absence of boost? I assume it would have been the ceramic wheels dropping into them. But again, I'm certain I don't have ceramic wheels. Question: What do you reckon is causing no boost? Appreciate any and all help!
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Hi new to the skyline and car scene. I just picked up an r33 with a rb25det engine. I need to recirculate the stock bov but I'm at a loss. I've done a fair bit of research on it but can't seem to get my head around it anyone brisbane based who could help for cash or know any shops that could fit me in quick. Cheers
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Hey guys, I've recently manual swapped my RB25DE Skyline and have put a RB20E gearbox in. The RB20E gearbox is out of a series 1 R33 and my R33 is a series 2. Since doing the swap, I've noticed my speedo is reading just over double and the odometer is rolling the ks over faster. I have kept the original auto cluster in for now untill I can source a manual one. Could this be because of the transducer/speedo sensor? If so, which one would I need to get to get an accurate speed? An RB20E as this is what the gearbox is, or a RB25DE? Or could the issue be something else entirely? Cheers -
Hi guys a recently purchased R33 Gtst automatic is driving normally some days then it'll just completely lose responsiveness but once stopped the key will start the car as if nothing had just happened. if anyone has experience with this issue that would be extremely helpful. The mechanic we brought it to said they "fixed it" but no it definitely was not fixed. Please if anyone has experience anything would help, Thank you! -
From the album: Kimmeh
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Hello all, I have a 1996 Skyline r33 GTS-T. This question is a two-parter. Firstly, and more simply, my r33 has GT-R Brembo Brakes. I am buying new pads and rotors. Can I correctly assume that any GTR-Brake/Rotor that was originally compatible with the r33 is going to be the same shape/size, regardless of the model? By that I mean, without knowing exactly what GT-R model these Brembo brakes came from, I can safely buy r33 GT-R sized brake pads and rotors and should be fairly safe in them fitting correctly? My second question is a bit more complex. I do not know if the previous owner put in Glycol-based brake fluid (DOT 4) or Silicone-based brake fluid (DOT 5). I did a test, by extracting some fluid from the reservoir and adding water. The brake fluid and water DID NOT mix, implying it is Silicone-based, but also the brake-fluid isn't purple, which is really throwing me for a loop. So, to be absolutely safe, I've decided instead just carry out a full fluid flush and replace with Glycol-based, especially since I am putting new pads and rotors on anyways. However, I am uncertain as to what the best method would be. I have read that I should use denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) to push the original brake fluid out, then use cheap DOT 3 to flush the system, then put in my proper high quality DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 brake fluid of choice. Is this correct? I've never done this before and want to make sure this is a proper method. I've also read that I should use compressed air to fully flush out the denatured alcohol, but I'm sure I understand how that works? Would I just hook up an air compressor pump to the brake fluid reservoir and open all the bleeder valves? I appreciate any/all advice, links and sources, and information you can provide. Thank you
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Haven't done much with, or driven, the R33 lately as I have been busy working on another car, Project X...no wait, Operation White Thunder...yes that's better. Couple of weeks back though, taking the 33 out of the driveway (it's not steep, fairly shallow and mostly flat) when I hear a crack turning left. Then found the car was jammed, not reversing or forward-ing..looked and found front passenger wheel sitting on an angle I would describe as, not right at all. Turns out it was a broken toe-arm mount on the knuckle. Fk knows how it broke, as I hadn't hit anything, but I'm guessing might have been too much caster, being lowered, using roll centre balljoint and tie-rod joint, that might have been causing binding and stress over time. It was a hell-mission to get it back into the driveway and into the garage though I can say. Any other thoughts on why this would break are welcome, cos it's a pretty thick heavy duty bit of cast-ness, not something to just snap on a whim. The welding is from me trying to do a temp fix on it, but that lasted about 3 metres, broke at first turn. Couldn't find a 2nd knuckle, so bought the GK Tech knuckle set. First thing, they are LIGHT. Weighed in at 3.7kg, vs nearly 6kg for an OEM knuckle. Some pics I've fitted the passenger-side knuckle already; fits just fine for the most part. A few things. They drop the car by 20mm, which GKTech say clearly on their website. My Blitz coilovers don't have much lengthen adjustment, so couldn't raise the car, so have dragged an old set of BC's out to get it back to the correct ride height for me, as they have alot more height adjustment. More on that to follow. The tie-rod mount is much further out, so you MUST use a longer tie rod, which GKTech also clearly note. More on that to follow. They have wayyy more angle, so much so that I can't turn the wheel much without the rim grinding and sticking on the sway bar ...sorry GTSBoy 😛 anti-roll bar. I have another set of rims with 3mm more offset so will put them on but it'll still contact I feel. Rims are a 17x9 27mm offset with 255/40/17 tyres. If you use a bigger brake kit (I use the ATTKD front brakes) the mounting bracket won't fit. I had to cut out a section for the bracket to sit flush on the brake caliper mount. As per these> Don't think it will matter as there' still tons of reinforcement but, not just bolt-on if you have bigger brakus. -
Hey guys, Been a long time since I owned anything from japan 14 or years or so. I worked for an importer back in the day and let me tell you a lot has changed! I not long bought myself a 30 year old boat from Tas, from a mate down there, and had it shipped up here to NSW. It needs a bit of work but it's got a really good built engine with less than 500km on it. I've started cleaning it up and giving it some much deserved love and it's looking a million times better than it did when I picked it up. Tomorrow it goes in for a new Haltech 2500 elite, a good look over, and then a tune. Fingers crossed for a good result! Look forward to meeting you guys on a cruise sometime soon! Cheers Grassy (The first photo with the Tassie plate is the day I picked it up from the transport yard) (Second photo is how it is now, not finished but lots cleaner than it was)
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Used OEM S1 front bar and S1 front lip for BCNR33 (62022-24U10, 96015-24U10) $1750 Bar and lip are damaged and therefore price is negotiable, so offer away! Brand new through Nissan's heritage program, expect to pay well over $2,500 for a new bar and lip. Damage is as follows: - holes from canards - heavy scrape on right side of lip - medium scrape on left side of lip - medium impact on right side (close to intercooler, check photos) - mesh coming off Damage is repairable! Would still be cheaper to fix and paint this one over buying a brand new one from Nissan! Bar is currently painted in K23 silver. Will NOT come with all mounting hardware (nuts and bolts)! No indicators! Pick up Casey area! -
From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
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From the album: SAU VIC Motorsports Championship
© www.circuitthreads.com
![[SKYHI]](http://saufiles.s3.ap-southeast-2.amazonaws.com/monthly_2022_12/DSC00168.thumb.jpg.a90d7ff08652d4dc85ab9b2ff27dade7.jpg)
