Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'r34'.
-
My current project car is a '92 Supercharged MX5, I've been building it over the past 5 years but sadly its time to move on. Like most, my dream car is an R34, a GTR will always be out of my price range but I would certainly be happy with a GTT. I'd decided the MX5 would be stripped and sold in September when the insurance expires and then start the search for a clean R34. I wouldnt be a true car enthusiast if i wasn't already looking for cars on the interweb with this decision in mind. My fingers were starting to hurt after refreshing various selling and auction sites here and Japan too often. One car I kept being drawn back to was a white Series 2. It ticked all the boxes for what i was looking for, except it was the facelift front bumper that was preventing me from looking deeper into the details. So i messaged the seller and asked for a few more details and photos, very quick responses and the amount of photos asked on request was overwhelming. Was it worth the 7hr round trip to go look at it, to potentially not like it? If it was as clean as it was in the photos, something major must have had been up with it if i was to walk away. Luckily this wasn't the case, infact the car was even better in person. After a test drive and a good poke around i really couldnt fault the car except for a knock on the driver side rear. So with an offer made he accepted and I drove away extremely happy! The 170ish mile drive home was faultless and i look forward to digging in and putting my own stamp on it. It would have been rude to not get some photos, especially with the MX5 Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Series 2 RB25DET NEO 6 Manual Transmission Imported in 2016 by IBE Cars in Huddersfield,UK Resprayed in original Pearl White in 2017 Its stock except for a custom turbo back exhaust, HKS mushroom filter and aftermarket stereo -
Hey guys, been trawling through every forum trying to find diagrams and pictures to help with wiring an auto to manual conversion for my R34 GTT. Have done everything apart from wiring. I have read a thread but had no pictures. Think I've done all the gearbox wiring correctly, however, struggling to find the inhibitor switch. Anyone who's done this should be able to help me? Some are saying inhibitor switch is by the fuse box but still unsure? Thanks in advance.
-
Hey guys, I'm new round here. I'm thinking about buying a car in about 3-6 months these are my options from the research I've done. (20-25K budget and I'm on red P's) 1. A non turbo Skyline. From what I've heard it's not a good idea to turbo it later on. But maybe I can reuse the parts if I get a GTT later on and just swap them in. My concern is also resale value, which r34's seem to be holding on. 2. WRX. Non performance. I don't know how good these will be performance wise but they seem the most liveable. 3. The safest and cheapest option I have is an 86 or BRZ. Probs won't turbo, but I can mod it I guess. Only issue is don't think it's a great car long term and resale is kinda trash from what I've seen. I'm leaning towards the r34, but if anyone has suggestions, would be greatly appreciated!
-
Hi. Soon i will be owner of Skyline R34 with RB20DE Neo engine and manual trans. Car was cheap and has done 209 000 KM. I dont mind the "poor" power of the engine but it can be in a bad shape. So what engine type i can "easily" swap in instead of this one? I looked for the info about this model but this type of car is crazy rare and not much of the info about it... FYI iam from different country so no P plates or any power restriction but that is not case... Plan is the 100% reliable engine/car. Skylines(R34) are even rarer in here so spare parts and anything on it i expensive. Thank you for the info.
-
Set of R33 GTST Calipers, Rotors and Pads. Calipers just taken off my car, rebuilt about ~30,000km ago. Rotors have done about ~20,000km total since new. Pads have plenty of meat. One set is DBA XP (road, hills) and the other set is Forza FR6 (track) Still working perfectly, not rusted, or seized or whatever the hell that greets used brakes. All clips, bolts, retainers, slide pins etc included. Also have OEM handbrake shoes I can throw in there if you're doing a conversion. $650 for the lot, SE Suburbs Melboune/VIC -
Most likely one of the thousands of posts about idle problems with an RB engine. So, my r34 has been running like a dream. I've owned it for about 4 months, and never had a single problem. Put in a boost controller myself about 2 months ago, never had a problem. In the last week, my car has decided to drop to 500RPM when warm, and at a complete stop, and in the last day, it's done the same thing, but the idle was very rough and a bit up and down. Here's a video of my car idling, ignore the engine as for some reason on camera it comes out to be extremely loud, but IRL is a lot quieter for some reason. I just wanted you to focus on the exhaust pattern, as that's what I'm referring to when I say rough idle. This morning when I cold started it, it did the rough idle thing, dropped to 500RPM, and went rough, rough rough and then stalled for the first time ever, started it up 2 seconds later and was all good, started fine no worries. I took of the cam cover to check the timing belt, but it looks like it's in very good condition. No tears or anything. Here's the video: R34 idle Problems I'm in need of some feedback if possible, just some recommendations on what I should look to fix, maybe if someone has experience the same problem I'm having. Cheers heaps guys!
-
3D Printed R34 aftermarket Triple gauge brackets Hey Guys, I'm selling R34 aftermarket gauge brackets, that can hold any 52-60mm gauges behind the factory location in an r34 GT-T for a stock look. All brackets are 3D printed and adjusted to fit the required gauge size. The required measurements are in the photo below. The gauges in the photos are all 60mm which is the correct size for the R34 triple gauge pod. 52mm will still fit perfectly but the bezel will be visible. As different brands of gauges have different sized cases and bezels the bracket can be made to fit one brand per bracket. Super easy installation, just take out the factory Nissan gauges, insert your aftermarket gauges into the bracket and then plug in the aftermarket sensors and wiring that came with your gauge, screw the bracket into the factory triple gauge pod and then place back into the dash. All brackets are $105 including express next day postage. PM to order yours -
Hi there, Does anyone here have the carbonetics slam panel installed on their R34 GTT? Or used to have one and got some pics of how it sat? https://carbonetics.net/products/1999-2002-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-cooling-slam-panel?srsltid=AfmBOoo6Uz0nuxGI3qC0sn56KJI6PMgh0OvV-pbegsPDHTtTxz4IMljc I’m just trying to get an idea of how they sit once installed but these guys have no pics. biggest question I’m trying to figure out is what the hell the 3 holes at the front of the panel are 😂 and where they bolt Thanks in advance -
ATTAKD 356mm Brake Kit for R34 GTT or R33 GTST. Same brake kit as per here from JJ: https://justjap.com/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02?currency=AUD Can confirm these will bolt directly to a R33 GTST with 12mm bolts OR to a R34 GTT (which is what I had) with the supplied bolts and the collets for the 14mm bolt holes in the R34, which are included. Also included is a set of rotors and hats, as well as 2x brake pad sets. 1) DBA XP (street, hills) 2) Forza FR6 (track) These are radial mounted and bolt directly to R33/R34. You will need extended brake lines to avoid them being full stretch on lock - this is common for all BBK's with the bolt point being in the center. In my case I welded another stud about 25mm lower than the OEM one and retained stock lines and fittings. You'll want a BM57 BMC to get the most out of these. I speak from experience. $1800 (neg for SAU people), located SE Suburbs Melbourne.
-
Picked the car up from the dock recently. Fairly low mileage about 100k kms, car looks very well maintained inside and out. Has a hks-gtrs turbo. The car sounds cammed at idle, similar to videos ive found of the tomei 262. There is a very distinct sound coming from cylinder 1 or 2 on the intake side that sounds almost like an exhaust leak or diesel sound. Car drives fine, i have only put about 30 miles on it, still need to do a fluid flush. Any ideas on the sound? Is this how rb25 neos are supposed to sound?https://youtube.com/shorts/eqHXawpgArI?si=v5q8pZQuOrNXYrBQ
-
Brand new, no longer needed These retail over $500-Asking 380 FPR2000 (there largest in that model) can flow huge power, only mod is AN3 vacuum port-Driven less that 5k’s bexley area -
Hey guys new here but at my witts end with my car and really looking for some help. Time for a long story. Owned my r34 NA Auto for about 9 years now. Car was running well until about 4 years ago when I started to get the A/T limp mode whenever the car went to shift into 3rd gear. Wasn't to fussed at the time as the car was about to go into the shop for a full motor and gearbox build. Car ended up with a full forged motor with turbo and all the bells and whistles which I haven't had a problem with. Gearbox was also completely rebuilt from front to back and absolutely everything is brand new. Car is running a haltech 2500 elite if that helps. Now to the pain. After all the money and things replaced it still has the same AT problem when it tries to shift to 3rd and it just sticks on 3rd gear limp mode from there on out. Car has always been and is still auto. It has the original box and motor in the car and me and my mechanic can not figure out why the hell it keeps happening. My next move is replacing the TCU module as it's separate in the GT model but other than that I'm lost Any ideas or help would be much appreciated Picture just coz I like to show it off. Thank you guys
-
Hello! I want to correct the roll center on my 1998 ER34. When looking online, all I can find is roll center corrected parts for GT-R only. I know extended ball joints are a thing, would this work? The problem here is, I can find them for the front side only. Also, I know there are adjustable lower control arms available that correct the roll center but they are a bit expensive and also only for the front side I believe? Can someone help me please? I can't be the only one that wants/has corrected roll center on a non-gtr R34. Thanks -
climate control R34 Climate Control Unit
Murfyy posted a topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Had an issue for a while where my climate control unit would not not show any lights, the buttons wouldn’t work, obviously the aircon and heating didn’t work. The only thing that showed on the unit was the clock which constantly counts up and repeats constantly when powered on. I have taken it to an auto elec who had a look and he bought in a car aircon mechanic/specialist to check it out. Neither of them found any issues with fuses or the system itself. Also took the unit to another auto elec/electrician who took it apart and tested it all and it worked fine. The lights lit up and all. so far I’ve double checked all the fuses, which are all good. The unit itself has been tested and works (however not when plugged into my car). No idea how to go about this/fix it. Any advice/tips/people to contact would be great thanks! -
Does anybody have a z-tune or nismo front bumper for r34 gtr that want to sell, or where I should buy one? Ive looked at rhdjapan but the shipping prices are insane...
-
Hello all. I am trying to install a Viper 5706V into my GTT and everything is working except for the remote start. I am struggling to figure out the pinout of the ignition barrel. It seems that there is 2 starter pins (White, and White/Red) and only 1 ignition pin (Black/Red) HELP. Everywhere I look online and in all of the documentation on the alarm. It says there should be 2 ignitions. What am I missing here. If any other R34 Owners have one of these systems installed with the remote start. Would you be able to send your wiring diagram. (How you have it installed) The Viper one is horribly worded and is making life a pain. -T3
-
Hey guys. Need to get the head machined, as a leak down test showed some major leaking coming from the exhaust valves in cylinders 5 and 6. Im looking at upgrading the cams, valve springs, and they will replace the usual little bits and pieces as part of a head refurbishment. Any other things I should do while the heads off?
-
hi there i got a HR34 and it stop start i dont know why when i try to start the car it crunk but did not start and when i stop crucking it i get a sound from the trriger ( 3 or 4 tiking sound ) with a engine flashing i change everything and look at the timming for the engine every thing ok i got a haltech plug in ecu this a video for what happening
-
From the album: F34RME - R34 GTR
© © Copyright www.skylinesaustralia.com and respective owner
-
now thats i gots the car -
Hey guys first time poster here and looking for some help, I'm about to list every part I have accumulated over the last 1 year in preparation for my r34 GTT manual going in to get built in the next coming weeks Firstly just like most, my initial plan changed midway and now I'm going slightly bigger turbo I have purchased a garrett g30-900 1.01 A/R now previously I had a 3076 (aeroflow turbo) but sold it and decided to go garret. With previous turbo I had purchased a 45mm turbosmart hypergate (14 PSI) However now that I have a garrett g30-900 I was wondering is my 45mm turbosmart too small for my set up? I'm aiming for 500kw on high boost (but will have a low boost setting of about 300kw) Should I look into getting the 50mm progate or is 45mm OK? I do want some response My current list of parts are: ARP head studs arp main studs Nitto head gasket 6 boost manifold Turbosmart wastgate 45mm Fuel regulator turbosmart fpr6 Fuel rail plazmaman Injectors 1650cc Bosch Turbo garret g30-900 Plazmaman intercooler Plazmaman full billet intake manifold haltech 2500 Haltech ic7 Radiator PWR ATP Oil catch can Twin plate clutch exedy organic Kelford 264 cams Kelford spring & retainers Supetech valve set Nitto I beam rods Nitto pistons 86.5 Nitto oil pump and crank collar HKS Cam gears Prp trigger kit ati Harmonic damper Astra electric power steering 2x 525 Fuel pump wallbro and Surge tank prp ls1 rb25 alternator kit R35 coil packs Aeroflow sump Hi-Flow pick up for sump Engine mounts tuff Radiator overflow bottle Nitto head drain Battery relocation kit CAN keypad 1.1mm restrictors Gktech clutch fan I haven't purchased ACL bearings yet I'll just get the builder.to organise thos according to clearance Block head and crank will all be machine bore honed etc... -
So I'm in process of building my 34gtt Will be aiming for about 500kw atw Have not spared a dollar on set up going full nitto forged bottom, g30-900, plazmaman manifold fmic, 1650cc Bosch (a lot more but you get the idea with my list) At what stage do you get an oil cooler and is it necessary or a wank factor? Car will be mainly street, occasional roll race and very occasional circuit Do they really make a difference? I will be sporting restrictors, head drain, nitto pump, baffled extended sump with high flow pick up and baffled cam covers TIA
-
For starters, I’m located in the states. I bought my gtt few years back and has been sitting in storage until legal to import. Car is in Canada so I am able to see it occasionally. The car came with an Impul boot lid and the previous owner left holes in the boot lid. I bought a GtR spoiler for it but only one hole matches up. I fear that I cannot drill new holes to make it match up properly without merging the old holes. So I’m looking for an oem boot lid for a 2 door.
-
Have had a sort of ticking noise coming from my engine for a while, hasn’t gotten any worse/louder but just trying to figure out what it is? Originally thought lifters but now possibly injectors? If anyone has anymore info let me know!! I have an RB25DE Neo, sound seems like it’s coming from more of the front end. Thank you! IMG_6417.MOV IMG_6419.MOV IMG_6420.MOV
