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Hey guys. I've got a rough idle issue on my R34 GTT RB30/25DET Neo. I've worked on my RB for years and this is the first time where I don't have a fkin clue why it's happening, its baffiling me. Here's a video of it in action: Long story short: My daily R34 decided to randomly start doing this weird RPM idle fluctuation thing and it wants to die on me sometimes and I've got a higher than normal pressure in my fuel line before the fuel rail which I'm thinking can be contributing to this issue. The long story: This is my daily and the car has always performed really well for me up n till now. It was tuned on haltech platinum pro (running on board map sensor) 4 months ago and did 440hp (on 98ron) and has been driving really well, no issues what so ever. Then one day (about a month ago) I came home from work, fuelled up, popped into the shops and then came back, got in the car to head home, started it and it started idling really rough. Like, I would start it and then it would instantly die on me. So I had to rev it to keep the engine alive and I had to baby it home. And it would also do this weird RPM fluctuations where the rpm needle on the cluster goes up fast then down fast like its glitching weirdly (can see on the video). Note: nothing has been changed on the engine since the tune nor has the ecu been plugged into anything since the tune. So this problem has occurred randomly and is still the same today. Also to note: this happened when the car was at full operating temp (was probably a 30 degree day). And the same idle issue will happen on cold starts. I've attached my complete list of mods here. I haven't been driving the car since. So I've plugged the haltech ecu into my laptop to check for any error codes, nothing. I let the engine idle and I watched the sensors on the haltech ecu manager, nothing odd, and no errors. Temps all look good. TPS voltage is good. I've got the haltech hooked up to a wide-band O2 sensor (pro sport gauge kit) and the afr starts off rich on cold start then eventually it goes to 14.2 like normal, so afr seems fine and normal to me. Since I've changed the spark plugs, it now won't die instanly on me but it still idles weirdly. The weird thing is, the RPM on my cluster fluctuates up and down but the RPM on the haltech shows normal-ish (no fluctuations). Note: the video was taken after I have done all the checks below. So here's the list of things that I've checked off and done on my list to try and eliminate possible causes: • Compression test: perfectly fine like it was before the tune (phew!😅). • Changed spark plugs to new ones: this helped a bit with the rough idle, old plugs were all black (they were about 3000kms old). • Did the old quick coil plug test by un-pluging one by one while engine is idling to hear for changes in rpm: rpm/idle changed as they should on each one. • Changed fuel filter: still the same. • Checked TPS sensor on haltech and it reads correcly. 0.45v no throttle and 4v WOT. • Cleaned IACV with a new gasket: nothing changed. • Swapped the IACV with another known working one: nothing changed. • Swapped CAS to a known working one. Nothing changed. • Unplugged the water temp sensor: I know it’s not this because when I unplug it, it would show some weird temp on the haltech software and when i plug it in it shows normal. • I've tried attaching the R35 PRP coil plug harness's ground cable to somewhere els on the head: nothing changed • I've tried putting a jumper lead on the negative battery terminal and then attaching it to the head and block to see if its a grounding issue: nothing changed. • I've checked the timing marks on the cams and crank all line up. • Changed the fuel pump horn relay (constant 12v mod) to a new one: nothing changed. • I've taken my haltech ecu out and then tested it into my brother's r34 with his map to check if the ecu is still fine, and it is. Now here's where it gets a bit interesting (and let me know if it's irrelevant); I checked the fuel pressure for the first time ever by tee'ing in a pressure gauge between the fuel filter and damper that enters into the fuel rail (can see on the video). When I prime the fuel pump, it goes to 43ish psi, which it should be according to the R34 workshop manual. Then when I go to start and idle the engine, it stays on 50psi. The workshop manual says that it should be about 32psi. So I immediately thought its my fuel pressure regulator and I changed it to a known working one. And still... it's idling at 50psi fuel pressure. When I take off the vac line on the FPR, nothing really changes. So then I changed the fuel damper that sits on the fuel rail to a known working one: still the same 50psi. Then I hooked up a long hose onto the exit of the fuel rail straight to the fuel tank flap to see if there are any blockages: it dropped a little bit by 2psi... So no real restriction in the return line. So now Im wondering, if there might be a blockage in the fuel rail or my 640cc xspurt injectors are maybe blocked? 🤷‍♂️ The question I have is; is this fuel pressure on idle (50psi) normal for an RB that has a Walbro 225 fuel pump with the constant 12v mod, with upgraded injectors + standalone ecu on a stock fuel rail and stock fpr? And would this high pressure be my main culprit for my shithouse of an idle? The other interesting thing I found/tested, was; i swapped out the cluster to my old stock nissan one to see if the RPM fluctuation thing also appears on that one, and it did the same thing weird RPM fluctuation on my old nissan cluster. So something weird electrically is going on that is contributing to this idle issue (maybe?). The fuel pressure also doesn’t seem normal, so I wanted to check in with you guys before i go pulling the fuel rail off (which is such a bitch to do!). What do you guys think this might be? Can I test some other stuff? Does the haltech platinum pro ecu have a diagnosing feature of electrical components that I can try? It can't be the tune/map because it ran perfectly fine for 3 months after the tune and no one has touched the map since. The next thing I’m tempted to try is injector cleaner which I've never tried before. Can I pour it straight into the feeding fuel line instead of in the tank? Can injector cleaners damage stuff when not diluted in the tank? mod list.txt

Hi guys I got a issue with my R34 GT-Turbo 1998, Semi Automatic for Months now but manged.. Regardless when the car is cold or warmed up, when I shift into Reverse or Drive.. the rpm drops and will stall. It starts back up again perfectly fine. Now the only way I can manage to bypass this is to give it a little gas right after I shift into gear so the revs won't drop and stall out on me. And also when I come to a full stop at a red light for example, the car revs would drop and sometimes stall too. The only way I can stop this is manually use the TipTronic and shift it into Gear 1 before I fully get to a Stop and it won't stall out. I forgot to mention most importantly that the A/T light flashes before I start the car up. it flashes 16 times. Now it also gets WORSE, lets say I attempted to "Drift" which I never have even done, but lets say I wanted to, for example. When I get to a Roundabout and start turning while giving abit of gas, the revs somehow holds back and the A/T light then comes on after I turn and the car will start going into LIMP Mode. So I would have to shut it off and start the car back up again and it runs fine and the A/T light is gone. The only way I can bypass this that when I get to a corner or a sharp turn.., I can't accelerate while turning at the same time all else the A/t Light comes back on, As I straighten the wheel back straight the Revs pick up again as if the car didn't allow me to go fast on a corner... I can't even have a joy ride anymore My power Steering fluid is full too so hmmm Now I just got my Throttle Position Sensor changed and cleaned the Throttle, I have also checked for any vacuum leaks carefully but nothing. I changed my Coil packs/spark plugs recently too, Cleaned my O2 Sensor, Cleaned the Air flow meter and checked for any leaks, cleaned the Idler Air Valve, Checked my Automatic fluid and its nice and red and on Full (also got it serviced for new transmission filter and fluid changed) tried a lot but still no good Now I can only think of Solenoids A & B or some sort of Sensor The R34 GT-T features : Stock BOV, Aftermarket Pod Filter, 3" Turbo dump pipe, Stock Intercooler, Splitfire Coils, Ngk Iridium Spark plugs. I'm thinking of getting rid of it after spending so much on it but still no mechanic can diagnose this for me. What do you guys think ? Thanks !

Hello everyone, BEFORE I START PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS IF YOU HAVE THEM For a few months now I have been thinking about changing the controls on my old Triptronic steering wheel to audio controls and this weekend I actually sat down and did it. I must say that it was quite the bitch, and I went through many different designs before I had the final version, and this final version, in my opinion, is the best way of doing it. This guide isn't a step-by-step walkthrough unfortunately because I have already installed the system into the car, I am writing this in retrospection so other people can also do this on their cars, as I have seen it asked about many times. First I'm going to cover other designs that I have seen which are either stupid, needlessly complex or just wont work as expected FAILED DESIGNS Using a 4-way transmitter and reciever (As seen in THIS video) (Would work but needlessly complex and many POF) Wiring resistors inline and running wire from steering wheel back to head unit (A steering wheel rotates //2short) Using a pre-existing PCB and wiring it in on the "dash-side" of the steering column (Ribbon cable in wheel boss wouldn't support enough inputs) OK, Now that that is out of the way. We get onto the good stuff. Below is 3 things. REFER TO THESE INCASE OF UNSURE OR COMMENT 1. A video of the finished product AND a talkthrough of how it is all wired (I rambled a bit) 2. A rough wiring diagram for reference 3. The notes of which wires are connected to what and the pin layout of the PCB. ALL WIRES MAY NOT BE 100% REPRESENTATIVE OF YOUR CAR (ie. Different Colour or Pin) SO PLEASE CHECK WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER FIRST WHAT YOU NEED Steering Wheel Control Harness (Most often comes with your stereo as a 3.5mm jack) Universal Wired Steering Wheel Controller (What I used) (I MIGHT SELL PEOPLE JUST PCB's WITH THE WIRES PRE SOLDERED ECT IF YOU WANT ONE PM ME) Soldering gear and experience Plenty of wire OPTIONAL: Desolderer (Expensive and doesnt need to be used but makes light work of desoldering PCB) HOW YOU DO IT ALL WIRE COLOURS THAT ARE UNDERLINED ARE THE STOCK WIRES, ALL IN ITALICS ARE THE WIRES I ADDED PLEASE TEST THE CONTROLLER AND 3.5MM JACK IN YOUR HEADUNIT BEFORE INSTALLING ALL COLOURS AND PINS MIGHT BE DIFFERENT IN YOUR CAR SO PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE CHECK BEFORE YOUR CUT ANYTHING Prepare the PCB Take apart your Universal SWC and remove the PCB. It should have a number of tactile switches on it and a power cable Test and notate which pins are Ground and which pins the actuation pin is. (This can be done with a continuity tester) In my case the whole board shared a common ground between all switches Desolder all of the tactile switches Solder new wires to the actuation pin for each switch Solder a wire to the common ground for the board. You should now have 5 wires soldered to your board (4 actuation + 1 ground), as well as the 2 original power cables IF YOU DONT HAVE THE TOOLS OR SKILL FOR THIS I MIGHT SELL A PRE-SOLDERED PCB FOR THOSE WHO WANT ONE (PM ME IF INTERESTED) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!! Remove the Airbag Remove your key surround, upper column cover and lower column cover to gain access to the steering column (5 Phillips head screws in Lower cover) On either side of the steering wheel there is a plastic cover which covers a Torx Head Screw holding in the airbag. Remove both covers and screws Disconnect both plugs on either side of the steering wheel behind the previously removed covers. The airbag should be able to be pulled out now Prepare the Switches With the airbag removed you should be able to see the wires for the switch relay. Find where the two switches combine into a single output in the centre of the steering wheel and cut just before here, so that the switch wires are seperated. Solder the "COMMON GROUND" from your PCB to the YELLOW wires from each switch. Solder the "UP" from your PCB to the GREEN wire (One Side Only) Solder the "Down" from your PCB to the BLUE wire (Same Side) On the other side, "Next" -> Green // "Back" -> Blue Connect PCB to Loom On the passenger side of the steering wheel there is a plug, make sure it is disconnected. On the upper plug, follow the wires back to the cut you made earlier. Clean up and hijack the BLUE and YELLOW wires. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the output of the PCB to the BLUE wire, and the GROUND wire to the YELLOW wire Tap Wheel Harness On the back side of the of steering wheel boss there is a cable with a yellow plug (the wire itself is also probably covered in yellow tape) which runs back into the dash. Locate this plug and strip back whatever is covering Cut the 2 GREEN wires on the PASSENGER SIDE of the plug (Make sure to leave enough wire to solder to) Solder a POSITIVE wire to the INNER wire that you cut (INNER to the centre of the plug) (Make sure its long enough to run to the back of the stereo) Solder a NEGATIVE wire to the OUTER wire that you cut (OUTER to the centre of the plug) Connect Harness to Audio Jack Make sure you have enough wire to reach the back of your stereo Solder the POSITIVE wire to the "INPUT1" wire on the SWC audio jack Solder the NEGATIVE wire to the "GROUND" wire on the SWC audio jack Plug controller jack into Reconnect battery and test if working If working DISCONNECT BATTERY!!! Cable manage and protect your PCB with whatever you can (I used heatshrink) Reassemble airbag (remember to reconnect plugs and TORX screws) Reassemble steering column If not working Check your wiring against mine in the diagrams and the handwritten sheet (The handwritten sheet is the notes I took on the day so they are 100% correct for my install) Use a continuity tester and check wiring if able Write a comment and hopefully I will be able to help ENJOY THE AUDIO CONTROLS Conclusion If you need help with anything dont be afraid to comment and I'll help out the best I can. I have seen tons of people asking about how to do this for a number of years now but I believe this is the first tutorial. I posted a couple videos to facebook of it and there seems to be alot of people who are interested, however, I believe that people think its a lot less time-consuming of a job than it actually is.

i bought r34 gtt and I would like to upgrade my car with turbo and i want to reach some where around 300 hp so i want to know what do you recommend me guy for the turbo and the other things? And how much it will cost? And where to go in Melbourne? I’m happy to buy up to $4000

Hey guys, Just found an issue today, stuck what to do. I have the R34 GTT, all has been fine and so on for ages... Not driven car since last weekend. Went out today, just found out the Brake Lights don't work.... I can turn on the lights as normal, but when I press Brake pedal, whether in ' no lights', 'side lights' or full lights' mode, I get no Brake Lights I changed the 10A Red fuse from the Fuse box in the engine Bay, which is labelled as 'TAIL' which is between 'TCS' and 'HORN' , but still no lights, and not sure the 'TAIL' fuse relates to brake lights... The fuse panel down by the pedals = in Jap (so cant read which fuse is for what!) Not even sure its a fuse problem. Not sure what to check, or where, etc. Any help, i would be very grateful

Hi guys can someone tell the the specs of this Injectors r34 skyline 2000cc bosch fuel injectors x6 - 2F1E-A7A-200..and are these anygood

Wanting to buy a r34 gtt altia front bar. Same as one in photo, snapped mine a couple weekends ago in a hill climb. Happy to pay postage. also chasing Xenon headlight (drivers side) gtr style rear bumper Send me a message if you have any of these Thanks shaun

WTB: Manual gear surround cover and centre triple gauge cover matching in colour. Where can I buy or does anyone have some for sale?

Iv a r34 gtt series 1. I picked up a turbochargerbut not sure if its for the r34 gtt. Its a 45v1 with 3 stamped on the oustide and 2 stamped inside and has op6 stamped with 717b and a letter 4 also stamped on it.. the actuator is 29 0724A and Asn7. Any help on detils about this would be great. Could it be from a stagea?

Hi guys, I'm after a manual cluster/tachometer for my R34 GTT, since mine poofed its self. Was looking at going for a nismo but waaayy to expensive and would rather use the cash for engine mods. Even just the PCD cluster board would be amazing. Thanks

Hi all I am chasing 2 R34 GTT RB25 Neo Spitfire coil packs. Brisbane Cash waiting Pm me or leave details on this post please. Thank you

I have an R34GTT project that I brought many years ago. Has original Rb25det engine and manual gearbox with HD clutch to go with it. Car had been modified and previous owner stripped aftermarket turbo and performance parts to sell car and never put back together. So engine needs stock injectors and turbo put back on (pretty sure I have all of this) and engine and box put back into car. Pretty sure almost everything is complete to reassemble, clean mostly complete interior car had 145,000km at the time it was taken off the road. Needs front and rear bars painted(lower Altia kit) , has been stored for at least 6 years that I have owned. Fully complied and clear title. Being sold as Is where is. Will be getting some pics in the next few days. From memory it had tanabe coil overs, nismo sway bars and a few other bits and pieces that I would have forget about. Probably missing a few bits and bobs from being stored in pieces for so long. Want $7K on Stockies or $8k with a set of genuine 19" volk CE28 19" gold rims but open to offers. car is located in Deniliqun NSW 3hrs from Melbourne, 7.5hours from Sydney, 6hours from Adelaide. Strictly pick up only, no delivery. Not interested in organising freight as parts are bulky. Judging by recent 34 prices if someone is prepared to put in the work could end up with a nice cheap genuine turbo manual GTT These will be the next generation of collectable car like the genuine mx7 plated vl Calais turbo I don't come on here much but pm me I'll check it over the next few weeks

Clearing out garage, got a few parts that I've replaced over the last year. All parts are from an R34 GT-T Auto 1998. R34 GTT Seats. Fairly good condition. They are bubble wrapped since I took them out of the car. $100 the pair. R34 GTT Factory Auto Diff. Auto ratio, but theres 1kmh difference in ratios. Should be viscous, definitely single spins, otherwise no clunks and drives fine. I took it out to put a Kaaz in. $50 R34 GTT Factory Auto Exhaust and Dump pipe. $100. R34 GTT Wheels. Full tread but old tyres (hiflo/dunlop). 3 center caps, missing one. Average condition, think a couple have light rash. $100 Pickup only for this stuff, too large to post, Preston / Reservoir. Anything still available in a week I'll open up to offers, need the space.

Hi all. Due to a recent incident where I dropped 2 of my splitfire coil packs off my bench and broke them I have had to replace my coil packs. In doing so I have the 4 remaining splitfire coil packs from my engine that have less than 5000 km on them for sale. Pick up from Southside of Brisbane. Can post at your expense. Still have the original box they came in. $65 each or i will do all 4 for $220.

my goal is to break 500whp yet still be a weekend driver What i have greedy FMIC Apexi power intake kit Tein coilovers and dampener kit 52mill radiator Parts list. Q45 Airflow meter $100-150 Plenum , fuel rail, throttle body $1000 (for engine clean up only minimal performance increase) Walbro 400LPH $200 ECU I have a haltech platinum Pro ecu kit, let me know if I should upgrade this to make 500hp (370rwkw) Injectors 1000cc $1000-$1100 Carbon clutch twin plate with flywheel $2500 (for $300-500 more but can handle upto 800 hp, if anyone gets a gtt to 800 please fill out your will) Camsharft poncam type b $700 Cam pullys $350 And the big one GT35R turbo kit $4200 Whiteline sway bars $700 any tips or advice or different products i should buy?

Hi all, I've finally got a brand new Nismo combination cluster for R34 GTT. - Did anyone manage to transfer odometer readings from the old cluster onto the new one? - Does anyone know a workshop in Sydney area that can do the job? - Is it possible to register odometer change with RMS (RTA) without transferring the odometer readings from the old cluster onto the new one? All help is appreciated.

Hi all, Just bought a new house so time for a clean out. R34 GTR genuine bonnet In good condition, no dents or sctaches. Was going to use it myself but found something more suitable. Can provide hinges to suit r32 I paid $850 for it but im after $800 R34 GTT Genuine Nismo/Altia kit All in fair condition, black in colour but would need a bit of a touch up. Still on car so photos up soon. Would prefer to sell as full kit but willing to part if enough interest. Kit includes front bar, bonnet, fenders and rear bar $1000 R34 GTT passanger headlight average condition, yellowed $150 RB26 standard plenum good condition, paint flaking a little. $300 R33 RB26 standard turbos and dumps, pair just pullled of standard motor with a little over 100,000kms on it, they look in fairly good condition. They only ever ran at 14psi. $300 R34 GTT cluster and submete Both in good condition and working when taken out of car. odometer reading approx 100,000kms $350 R32 GTST dash cluster Good condition, cant remeber how many kms. $150 R32 dash cluster Poor condition but good for parts. GTR spedo gtst tach. $20 Riverside Trafficstars 18" perfect offset for a r32 or r33 gtst. Some gutter rash but in good condition. Tyers are shot. $1200 350Z wheels Good consition come gutter rash but solid rims. Two rims have average condition federal rsr tyres the other two have no tyres. $500 Super Advan II 18" not sure of offset. fairly average condition. Full set, no tyres. $500 All parts are located in Wollongong NSW. All prices negotiable within reason. Contact David on 0450929080 Will be posting more photos in the next few days. More photos can be provided on request.

For Sale is My r34 GTT 1999 r34GTT manual 120,xxx chassis with lower klm engine due to engine failure 4 years ago. have spent a lot of Coin $$$ on Car so no low ballers GT3082r Turbo (makes 400+hp on 17psi ) High mount manifold + coating/Wrapping HSD Coilovers walbro fuel pump 600cc injectors HKS 100mm Front mount Intercoler 3inch exhaust with screamer plumed (half exhaust coated + wrapped ) Plazmaman plenum and throtle body Tomie type B poncams Koyo 53mm Radiator Split fire coils G-Link Ecu with all sensors + tune by All Star Garage Extreme Single plate clutch + light flywheel DBA Slotted Rotors with Mu break pads Volk GTC 18" Rims 9.5 rear 8.5front many more mods.... car is Legal with all Permits and engineering papers all the works been done by Zak at Cypher Industries + ASG garage $24,999 Ono 0432215336 pls msg or call after 5pm.Cheers will upload pic Soon pls Note :Update car needs re tune due to couple of air leaks on bov and hose / all fixed now..

Just bought an r34gtt & have some spare parts from it that i dont need Make an offer if you need anything Can dropoff parts locally or post them,pickups from Mt.Gravatt Brisbane Stock r34 gtt tail lights,no damage at all,no bulbs I will sell them seperately $150 ono Deep dish steering wheel & boss kit from r34gtt,Suede style material fairly new Might also fit r32/r33/Silvias im not sure $60 ono HKS[copy]Sequential atmo BOV with rb25det adapter,might fit rb20det's i'm not sure though Cost $100 new,sell for $60 Gearshifter fits skyline and silvias $30 ono I also have a stock black[Nismo?? spec] wing from bootlid up for grabs I'll add a pic of it asap

Clearing out my garage after moving and seeing how much stuff I have. Stock R34 GTT radiator - $100 **Only replaced due to upgrading to a Fenix 52mm, no leaks Stock R34 GTT Thermostat - $15 **Only replaced due to upgrading to a Nismo item Stock R34 GTT rear camber arms (pair) - $50 Stock R34 GTT rear traction arms (pair) - $40 Stock R34 GTT front upper control arms (pair) - $80 Stock R34 GTT front swaybar - $50 Stock R34 GTT rear swaybar - $50 **Only replaced due to upgrade for adjustable parts Stock R34 GTT front brake rotors (pair) - $50 DBA4000 T3 series slotted front rotors (pair) - $200 Stock R34 GTT front calipers (pair) w/ Intima SR pads- $300 Intima SR rear R34 GTT brake pads - $20 HEL R34 GTT front braided brake lines - $60 **Only replaced due to upgrade, heaps of pad left on the front and rears Ferodo GP2 rear R34 GTT pads (brand new) - $20 **To confirm fitment - Part No. DB1144GP. I was given these when I purchased the car but never used them Unknown brand front Evo 5-9 Brembo pads - $20 **Replaced after fitting up the Brembos to my car, reasonable amount of pad left Stock R34 GTT center gauge cluster - $100 **Removed for fitment of Defi gauges Stock R34 GTT transmission mount - $100 **Only removed due to being replaced with Nismo item Stock S15 rear camber arms (pair) - $50 **Removed from my old S15 and replaced with adjustables S15 rear parcel shelf speaker grills - $10 BMC pod filer - $10 **Could use a clean and also has a screw hole in the end from a bracket, was given to me when purchasing another filter setup If you want a better picture of any of the items, or of any of the items not pictured, let me know, I've been meaning to post this for a couple of weeks and have just been lazy with taking photos so just wanted to get something up. Will happily get pics if anyone is interested though. All parts are located in Bathurst NSW, willing to post at buyers expense or alternatively meet as far as Lithgow (for multiple items) or Sydney/Canberra at a convenient time as I travel these ways often.

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Blitz Damper zz-r coilovers for R34 gtt (Part No. 92758) $1200 its yours without the delivery waiting period. ($1299 from JustJap) Located SoR. Brand new, box opened to check contents. Selling for a friend who bought as present but car already had coilovers. 0 four 0 nine 525 714 (text only thanks) No swaps or vestal virgin offerings thx.

Hi everyone, been searching forums & Google for a while now struggling to find detailed info on my question... I have an r33 gtst (engine out currently) hks 3037s top mount & many other mods including a genuine greddy plenum. My question is how do I go about gaining the midrange loss back from the plenum? A few posts in various forums said a spacer between the plenum & the head. So this leads me to my questions below 1. How thick should the spacer be? 2. Did it cause any fittment issues? 3. Can you use the same bolts to fit the plenum back on or longer ones to suit? 4. to people who have done this was it really noticeable dyno/road feel? I'm not here to get plenum choice advice or what somoneones opinion on my setup is or why plazmaman this & greddy that...... just trying to find info on the greddy spacer idea & if it works well.... To anyone who has done this please shed some light on this topic, tell us what car/engine u have & how thick the spacer is + what were your gains.... Thanks in advance Ps hope everyone had a merry Christmas & have a happy & safe new year!