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If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Check (if you live in usa): Costco Weekly Ad, or Supercheap Auto Catalogue. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.

Hey guys. I've got a rough idle issue on my R34 GTT RB30/25DET Neo. I've worked on my RB for years and this is the first time where I don't have a fkin clue why it's happening, its baffiling me. Here's a video of it in action: Long story short: My daily R34 decided to randomly start doing this weird RPM idle fluctuation thing and it wants to die on me sometimes and I've got a higher than normal pressure in my fuel line before the fuel rail which I'm thinking can be contributing to this issue. The long story: This is my daily and the car has always performed really well for me up n till now. It was tuned on haltech platinum pro (running on board map sensor) 4 months ago and did 440hp (on 98ron) and has been driving really well, no issues what so ever. Then one day (about a month ago) I came home from work, fuelled up, popped into the shops and then came back, got in the car to head home, started it and it started idling really rough. Like, I would start it and then it would instantly die on me. So I had to rev it to keep the engine alive and I had to baby it home. And it would also do this weird RPM fluctuations where the rpm needle on the cluster goes up fast then down fast like its glitching weirdly (can see on the video). Note: nothing has been changed on the engine since the tune nor has the ecu been plugged into anything since the tune. So this problem has occurred randomly and is still the same today. Also to note: this happened when the car was at full operating temp (was probably a 30 degree day). And the same idle issue will happen on cold starts. I've attached my complete list of mods here. I haven't been driving the car since. So I've plugged the haltech ecu into my laptop to check for any error codes, nothing. I let the engine idle and I watched the sensors on the haltech ecu manager, nothing odd, and no errors. Temps all look good. TPS voltage is good. I've got the haltech hooked up to a wide-band O2 sensor (pro sport gauge kit) and the afr starts off rich on cold start then eventually it goes to 14.2 like normal, so afr seems fine and normal to me. Since I've changed the spark plugs, it now won't die instanly on me but it still idles weirdly. The weird thing is, the RPM on my cluster fluctuates up and down but the RPM on the haltech shows normal-ish (no fluctuations). Note: the video was taken after I have done all the checks below. So here's the list of things that I've checked off and done on my list to try and eliminate possible causes: • Compression test: perfectly fine like it was before the tune (phew!😅). • Changed spark plugs to new ones: this helped a bit with the rough idle, old plugs were all black (they were about 3000kms old). • Did the old quick coil plug test by un-pluging one by one while engine is idling to hear for changes in rpm: rpm/idle changed as they should on each one. • Changed fuel filter: still the same. • Checked TPS sensor on haltech and it reads correcly. 0.45v no throttle and 4v WOT. • Cleaned IACV with a new gasket: nothing changed. • Swapped the IACV with another known working one: nothing changed. • Swapped CAS to a known working one. Nothing changed. • Unplugged the water temp sensor: I know it’s not this because when I unplug it, it would show some weird temp on the haltech software and when i plug it in it shows normal. • I've tried attaching the R35 PRP coil plug harness's ground cable to somewhere els on the head: nothing changed • I've tried putting a jumper lead on the negative battery terminal and then attaching it to the head and block to see if its a grounding issue: nothing changed. • I've checked the timing marks on the cams and crank all line up. • Changed the fuel pump horn relay (constant 12v mod) to a new one: nothing changed. • I've taken my haltech ecu out and then tested it into my brother's r34 with his map to check if the ecu is still fine, and it is. Now here's where it gets a bit interesting (and let me know if it's irrelevant); I checked the fuel pressure for the first time ever by tee'ing in a pressure gauge between the fuel filter and damper that enters into the fuel rail (can see on the video). When I prime the fuel pump, it goes to 43ish psi, which it should be according to the R34 workshop manual. Then when I go to start and idle the engine, it stays on 50psi. The workshop manual says that it should be about 32psi. So I immediately thought its my fuel pressure regulator and I changed it to a known working one. And still... it's idling at 50psi fuel pressure. When I take off the vac line on the FPR, nothing really changes. So then I changed the fuel damper that sits on the fuel rail to a known working one: still the same 50psi. Then I hooked up a long hose onto the exit of the fuel rail straight to the fuel tank flap to see if there are any blockages: it dropped a little bit by 2psi... So no real restriction in the return line. So now Im wondering, if there might be a blockage in the fuel rail or my 640cc xspurt injectors are maybe blocked? 🤷‍♂️ The question I have is; is this fuel pressure on idle (50psi) normal for an RB that has a Walbro 225 fuel pump with the constant 12v mod, with upgraded injectors + standalone ecu on a stock fuel rail and stock fpr? And would this high pressure be my main culprit for my shithouse of an idle? The other interesting thing I found/tested, was; i swapped out the cluster to my old stock nissan one to see if the RPM fluctuation thing also appears on that one, and it did the same thing weird RPM fluctuation on my old nissan cluster. So something weird electrically is going on that is contributing to this idle issue (maybe?). The fuel pressure also doesn’t seem normal, so I wanted to check in with you guys before i go pulling the fuel rail off (which is such a bitch to do!). What do you guys think this might be? Can I test some other stuff? Does the haltech platinum pro ecu have a diagnosing feature of electrical components that I can try? It can't be the tune/map because it ran perfectly fine for 3 months after the tune and no one has touched the map since. The next thing I’m tempted to try is injector cleaner which I've never tried before. Can I pour it straight into the feeding fuel line instead of in the tank? Can injector cleaners damage stuff when not diluted in the tank? mod list.txt

hello Just selling my cams and springs and water pump as i dont need them at the moment, all items are brand new and never used only opend to check the items and take photos : 1 set of Rb26dett tomei pon cams Type B for a r32/33 GTR part Number #143005 1 set of SupterTech springs,retainers and seats part number #SPR-TS1015/rb26 1 set of tomei Cam gears to suite RB part number # 152009 IN and #152010 EX 1 N1 water Pump for nissan. part NUmber #21010-24u27 asking $2300 ONO. items are located in brisbane can ship items within australia at buyers expense. Please PM or can text Me on 0415298948 will try to get back to you as soon as i can. Cheers

For sale are a set of tomie pon cam cam shafts to suit an rb 20/25. 256 duration 8.5lift. Good upgrade on standard and makes good power. Made 344.1rwkw in my rb25 with a garret 3076 on 15psi. Does not include Cam gears. These cam shafts are in good condition and ready to drop in. $650ono buyer to pay post

Hi all, I have a brand new gold sard gtr fuel rail up for grabs. Suit 11mm injectors. $200 Has been fitted to my car but car has never run with it on , comes with -6 speedflow fittings too. Cheers

Hi all, I have a brand new gold sard gtr fuel rail up for grabs. Suit 11mm injectors. $200 Has been fitted to my car but car has never run with it on , comes with -6 speedflow fittings too. Cheers

Up for sale is r32 gtst engine crossmember with steering rack and p/s lines, no rack ends. Chasing $160 north Brisbane, contact Aaron 0408534411, if you organise courier you can freight it wherever you like otherwise pickup only.

Hi all, just chasing some info, im new too skylines and lack info. im looking at buying a skyline for drifting and would like some input into which ways/options i should go more or less about motors and models. r33's seems regularly available ATM and fairly cheap over here in WA. What's a good choice when it comes to r33's(or other models) for a beginner drifter, i feel comfortable with the suspension side of things, just unsure when it comes to sr or rb. i will be doing minor mods nothing bit at this stage, im happy to gutt from engine bay back of the car if required(sorry to offend anyone). i can acquire turbos quite easily, so turbos and anything turbo related info would be handly. i know there will be mixed thoughts and this could get messy haha but i do appreciate the info. thanks.

i am regretfuly selling my 97 r33 skyline, it is turbo manual. i am a mechanic, so car has been serviced religiously every 5,000km im selling due to financial dificulty. car is a great platform for modifying car comes with: - 3.5inch catback exaust - electronic boost controller - 18inch rims with rw tyres - 2din dvd screen - aftermarket BOV - intercooler (not fitted) - rego untill jan 2013 - no rwc but could be provided for an aditional price im chasing $9,000 O.N.O

exedy hd organic clutch push type suit rb in good condition $150 location: South Australia (can post at buyers expense)

EOI. Possibly parting out my car. Freshened up 25 with 3 layer cometic head gasket all bolt ons except ac, includes good 25 turbo with dump pipe welded to rear housing. 25 loom and 25 ecu. No coil packs but can include brand new oem ones for 400. $1800. Freshly re built 25 box new bearings and synchros $1600 20 loom modified to suit 25 for nistune with a 20 ecu $100 Brand new exedy hdd 5 puk clutch lucky to have seen 100ks come with machined flywheel $700 Hsd coil overs to suit 32 no knocks/leaks $600 Sparco sprint seat never been fitted brand new with uni adj rails and side mount fixed rails $450 Defi copy gauges, boost, water temp, oil temp, oil pres, taco brand new $250. 3.75 inch and 3.25 inch uni flares (set of 4) $300 Prices are firm. 0430505810 texts are best cheers.

Hi Guys, Owned my first skyline for 4 months now, Its an r32 gts-t with an rb20det (all stock) with 206xxxkm's on it. Since the most recent oil change, it's developed an engine clatter from around 3000rpm and up. Most noticeable when I rev it to 3000, hold it there, and pulse it up and down from 2800 to 3200, clatter is loudest on liftoff, but not sure if thats just because there are less noises to compete with. I got out the mechanics stethoscope and hunted around, the noises seem to be coming from the top end, but I cant seem to pin point it any better than that. the oil I put in was the same as the oil I took out (Shell HX7 10W40 - was crazy cheap on special for fathers day haha) Wondering if anybody has had a similar problem, from reading around I have read some similar but not quite the same stories where people said it was blocked oil galleries, or big end bearing going (hope not!!) Something of note - the noise doesnt happen at all when its cold to half warmed up, doesnt develop til its bene running enough to be properly warmed up and hot. - maybe I can get away with a thicker oil to solve the problem? seems a bit bandaidish.. Anybody have any suggestions for me?

Hey all, whatever code does this mean it does a short flash then ecu stays on

Hi, have an rb20det, that will sometime start and rum for 10 mins then just randomly shut off and engine light comes on, then not turn over again, I have fuel on my sparks, have put new afm on, new cas, new fuel pump, have checked fuel getting thru filter,new sparks, now it done this before replacing everything, would just start from time to time idle then stall out, any possible information would be great thanks 20230811_170623.mp4

Hi there I have a rb20det, have just brought an srp t3t4 ar.50 turbo, externally gated as an upgrade for the stock one, just wondering if It will bolt straight on no problems, thanks team

Hi everyone, I’m relatively new to the RB-series world and definitely new when it comes to timing an engine using G4+ link. My car was running well, and then I decided to take everything apart and powder coat it. The engine bay is looking GREAT! However, I can’t get timing right, the idle is all over the place, and it’s backfiring consistently, which I think is causing the engine to overheat as well. Timing is set at 15 degrees on g4+, but I can’t seem to be able to match that on the crank using a timing light Things I messed with: 1. CAS 2. TPS 3. idle control valve Things I observed: Idle: 1,100 to 2,200 RPM, lost of misfire crank timing: 5 degrees How can I get the CAS (at 15 degrees), TPS, and idle control valve to be happy with each other? Any procedures? I’m here to learn! Thank you, Eric

Hello. Recently picked up an R33 GTST, S1.5, and I am very worried about the timing issues. The car ran rich when I got it, which was fixed by adjusting the TPS to correct voltage, but the idle seemed a little off still. I took it and got it retuned, as the last tune was very old and outdated. The car made 425 RWHP on a hub dyno, at 15 PSI. Tuned on Apexi Power FC and a GT3582. The car has very little knock on the hand controller, and seems to run fine. The tuner said however he had to advance the timing a massive amount, and believes the ECU is misreading timing, and it is an ECU fault. The timing degrees is at mid to high 20's under full boost, which seems very high. Again, low knock (under 30) on Power FC sensor. It was running similar timing to this for the last 7-8 year apparently, and had a very similar ignition map on the old tune. What's the go with this? How can I get the timing to a 'normal' level? Has the belt slipped? CAS failed? I am concerned the Power FC knock reading is inaccurate and I don't want this car to explode, as Covid tax meant this was not a cheap buy! Cheers all!

Hey Guys, First time posting let me know if I've done something wrong. Does anyone on here have the HyperGear ATR43SS3 Ball Bearing Turbo fitted to their rb25? I'm looking for anyone that has had an rb engine tuned with this turbo. What is your turbo response like? max hp you have put through it? any vids? just need some info. I see alot of the SS2 but not much on the SS3. Thanks

Hi guys So Ive been building a fully forged rb20 with kelford 272 cams g4x ngtr plug in bosch 044 pump out of a surge tank It’s getting chucked into a s13 drifta Engines gunna be back from the machine shop in 2 weeks and I’ve been getting a turbo sorted 420-450hp is what I’m aiming for I was originally going after a 3071 gen 2 off pulsar but after talking with some people who’ve done it before they said a 2871 would be better but might not make it to 450 But there’s a new turbo that kinagawa have done called the TD05H that’s bolt on for rb20/25 that I got told is the way to go but there aren’t many reviews on it Ive been told it’s got basically no lag and can easily do 450+ but will need low 20’s pound of boost I’m going with the 8cm rear 20g billet Compressor wheel 9 blade sts turbine wheel so im just after a second opinion if anyone else has run this turbo? cheers

I need help with what I should do with my diff it’s a Active LSD with a altessa pump system. It singles and I want to to double what can I do with this diff bleed it, weld it, get it shimmed, block off the altessa system? Idk what to do please help as I want to use my car for drifting / road use

HI Guys need some help got new s13 with rb25det neo motor from some guy having problem with car poping in the exhaust hole time no mater what i do with map and car also not ideling nice what can i do checked everything dont know anymore

Hey guys, Iv had my 1998 nissan skyline for about 2 months now and iv been trying to figure out why its running so rich Im getting 200ks A TANK!!!!. It blows black smoke and smells like fuel Iv changed the o2 sensor, spark plugs, maf sensor When the car is off and the engine is warm the car stuggles to turn back on... it turns on but then i have to tap the accelerator to keep it on When im driving and coming to a stop i clutch in and slow down and the rpms drop below 1000 and sometimes even stalls When im speeding up and boost starts to build the car starts stuttering sounds like antilag tbh and i loose power I dont know what it can be and would appreciate any help Thank you

Hello guys! I have r34 sedan wich came with rb20de in it. I swaped my engine and now I have est 300 hp .Unfortunetly I am stuck with stock open diff. Can anybody suggest wich cars locked diff will fit because I can't find parts in my area. I was only able to find one seller wich has this diff he doesn't know from wich car did this diff came from. It just says viscous lsd and and ratio 3.69 . If anybody can help to check will this diff fit my vehicle would be appreciated.

Hello! I’ve read multiple post on similar issues as I’m having but following their steps hasn’t brought me much closer to solving my issue it feels like. So, I created a new one! Issue: I installed a brand new alternator after thinking my old alternator was the issue but I’m having the same problems. The alternator is not charging the battery at 14v resulting in constant recharge to be able to drive it for another 5 days before the voltage gets too low that it can be harmful to multiple components. When car is off: 12.43V When car is on: 12.51V Diagnose: With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the negative probe to the negative side of the battery. Then, I measured all the grounds on the alternator while car is on. Negative Side of Alternator alternator ground to block: 0.05V alternator case: 0.05V alternator bracket: 0.04V alternator battery power stud: 2.5V alternator Battery power nut: 2.5V chasis to block where alternator ground is hooked up to: 0.05V Grounds around alternator: 0.05V With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the positive probe to the positive side of the battery. Then, I measured Voltage drop while car is on. Positive Side of Alternator Alternator Battery Power stud: 9. 47V Alternator Battery Power Nut: 9. 47V Rechecked grounds on alternator: 12.42V The 75Amp fuse is receiving 11.8v on the top pin and 0.01V on the bottom. Where I’m At: With the diagnose I’ve done I’ve determined that the grounds have a prettt good connection, the 75Amp fuse is good, but there is a substantial voltage drop of 9.47V. Question: Does anyone know why a voltage drop could occur and how do I fix it? Could the battery be the issue?

Hello! Lucky me, I’m mostly asking this question to see if I should stop driving my car or if it’s okay. As I was bringing the front of my car off the jack, the frame slipped, and my jack pushed my radiation up up up up and cracked my fiberglass hood. It also bent my harmonic balancer pulley on my RB25DET where the power steering belt goes just a little bit, looks more like a scrape but does have a little bit of a bend. Should I be concerned about the pulley? I have driven for a day, did a couple of highway pulls in 3rd, cruises, everything feels okay, maybe a little shaky but it could be my own paranoia! Haha. Thank you!