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Showing results for tags 'rb20det'.
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Hey all, whatever code does this mean it does a short flash then ecu stays on
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Hey all so anyways having trouble with the cooling system in it, now have a hose running under intake and beside thermostat have plugged in the long hose running from firewall side, also plumbed the smaller port which was under it, as old engine was like that, now back toward the firewall have plugged I the shorter hose from firewall side, but am left with another plug that is a coolant/water hose, just wanting to get an idea of what it could be and where to plug it? It's the port closest to the firewall, one over from it is where have plugged in the coolant hose, any idea of where it could plug it as I don't have an extra hose there to connect it but I left a hose there on the new block and water/ coolant is coming out of it.....
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Hi there I have a rb20det, have just brought an srp t3t4 ar.50 turbo, externally gated as an upgrade for the stock one, just wondering if It will bolt straight on no problems, thanks team
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Gregs Nissan HR32 Skyline GT-S4 AWD RB20DET Turbo MODS -Home built Air Bleed for Coolant
TurboX posted a gallery image in Member's Gallery
From the album: TurboX's Pix - Orig SAUVIC #55
Gregs Nissan HR32 Skyline GT-S4 AWD Automatic RB20DET Turbo MODS -Home built Air Bleed for Coolant aeration relief© www.TurboClub.com
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From the album: R32 GTS-4 4 Door
After being in need of a new air filter, due to the K&N being 5+ years old. I started trolling the net once again, I saw an article saying that Autosalon had tested some '3A racing' pod filter so time back now with results confirming it had better airflow *cfm* than K&N and all your other expensive brands. So I purchased one a nice red one to help start the red theme. -
From the album: R32 GTS-4 4 Door
Purchased some autocool warehouse radiator *ebay*, after reading a few reviews. Decent build quality for the price, looks good. Bought some bottom radiator rubbers and slid the radiator straight in. Nice Fit. Decided the radiator hoses could do with an upgrade too. Just a nice clean set of red hoses should do the job nicely. A start to the red and purple theme, sexy yet aggressive. -
Looking to buy a set of Nismo 555cc top feed injectors (yellow tops?) to suit an rb20det secondhand, give me a price and don't be ridiculous pls, looking for a good deal pls.
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So I got the car up on ramps to start cleaning the underneath of the car when I noticed that the AC unit does not have an accessory belt running it. Could this be why my car always blows hot air inside as well. 4C9F98C9-446D-4037-96B0-ED61A707346B.MOV
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Hey guys, first post so make sure if its incorrect, etc. drop a comment down below showing my how to fix in the future. Got a no start on my RB20DET R31. Information prior to the no start condition: Car was idling, has been running for weeks fine, recently fixed a leaking o-ring at the fuel rail, and while it was idling after the repair i was attempting to get the cluster temp guage working from an RB30e temp sender to the single spade connector on the factory 20det harness. Accidentaly tapped/bumped the spade (connected to the harness) against the block / thermostat plumbing and the engine just cut out and died instantly. No sputtering, etc. died as if the key had been turned off, very strange and could only imagine its some voltage serge situation. Information relating to my diagnosis that may or may not be relevant but i thought id include: - Fuel pump can be heard running on "ignition ON", FPR reads 0kg/cm fuel pressure, but increases to around 1-2 (30-40 or so psi) when the hose is squeezed. - Secondary ECU has been trialed that is believed to be healthy but haven't tested for myself, only word of mouth. ECU Pins: 50/60 - Closed circuit 10/20 - Closed circuit 107/108/116 - Closed circuit 26 - Closed circuit 58/49/59 - 12v + (ONLY WHEN PIN 16 IS MANUALLY GROUNDED) 109 - 12v + 45 - Believed to be possible open circuit, will be re-checking and updating asap. Extra notes: ENGINE CRANKS FINE. - Pin 16 has 12v to the ECU harness but does not activate ECCS relay when "ignition ON". BUT when manually grounded to chassis (bypassing ECU) ECCS relay activates and pins 49/59 recieve 12v+ to the ecu harness. - CAS has ground and 12v+, when spun by hand 1 degree wire cuts 5v respectively (per 1 degree), but the 180 degree seems to be all over the place, more like 20 degrees separation. Also when spun by hand, injectors and coils CAN NOT be heard firing. - Injector 6 has been tested with a noid light on crank and revealed NO pulsing, entire rail has also been tested out of manifold with no injectors visibly firing on crank. - Coil 6 has been tested with a plug in the boot, out of the head and no spark was seen. P.S Ignore the scribbles on the photos, most are there when i've gone on tangents and probably reveal nothing about the problem, just me trying to clear the diagrams in my head, I included them simply for reference in the event they are incorrect / outdated, etc. Any help is appreciated at this point, it's probably really obvious but i'm driving myself crazy over the past couple weeks with this and as im beginning to take on more work i have less time to goose chase and need to regain a sense of direction for what i should be investigating, thanks! - Sam
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As the weather is warming up I've noticed that my 32gtst is not starting from cold as easily as it does or should compared to winter time, we just had a really cool morning and the car started first crank, when the engine is at operating temp restarting is fine, always first crank, it just has an issues starting first start of the day when ambient temps are over 25c Any suggestions before I start playing around in nistune?
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Hello, After the timing belt was changed on the car, I ran into a problem. On test drive everything was okay, car boosted and revved like it should. Then after around 10km the car started to stutter around 0,5bar boost and wasn't going properly. The car was parked overnight and next day after around 30km the car lost it's power and wasn't accelerating as it should. The exhaust also went much louder and after all I parked the car, checked that the exhaust manifold was slightly red which means the mixture should be very lean. I took the CAS off and it seems that the half moon on the exhaust cam has broken. So I'm guess the timing got messed up and that's why the car runs badly. I haven't checked the crankshaft timing marks, but on the camshafts they lined up so I'm pretty sure there shouldn't be a problem there. Because if the car ran well on the test drive and got gradually worse, it's the fault of the CAS I assume. Now as the car is garaged for the winter I'm wondering if Tomei poncams and a new CAS upgrade will be good or stick with OEM? The engine itself is stock apart from a new intercooler. Is it worth getting Tomei Poncams with the 8.5mm lift which should be a drop in for the stock engine, valvetrain and valve springs. -
Hey guys, I'm looking for a deep sounding exhaust for my Gtst 32, just want to know what will drone a little bit, give the rb20 a deep note to it, and not have a raspy obnoxious exhaust. Thanks
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For sale is a very low mileage Nissan Cefiro turbo. This is possibly one of the lowest mileage Ceffy's in Australia, I'm selling it on behalf of my 68 year old mum who has owned it for the last 15 years so it's probably the least thrashed Cefiro in Australia as well. Mileage is 70,000km with paperwork to back it up. The interior and mechanicals are that of a car that has averaged under 2,500km per year, the body however has some hail damage and the price has been adjusted accordingly, otherwise the asking amount would be close to double. It's surprisingly fast, aside from keyless entry and a CD stacker it's completely standard. Vehicle is a 1988 Nissan Cefiro (A31) SE turbo auto in Melbourne. Sale price is $4,900. Please call 0410 334 407, I am unlikely to respond here or to direct messages.
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Looking for a little electrical help. I have a hcr32 on a Nistune ecu that at first, had problems with holding connection to the software even with the key only in the on position with the engine off(so not an electical noise issue). Now, I cannot connect to the ecu at all with Nistune, or data scan software. I have tried different cables, different laptops, even re-wired a new consult port in. After that I tired the paper clip jump trick to get codes to flash and nothing worked. I have just got another oem ecu, and still have no luck. I’m quite stuck now and id appreciate any help. Thanks
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Hi all, I've recently been battling tuning my car(hcr32). A couple months ago I could connect to my ecu(nistune chipped) and it would sometimes lose connection (even with plms cable). This made me make some extra grounds and had no luck. Now recently, I cant even connect at all (Nistune gives me the spare com port error). Ive tried to connect with different cables, nistune software and datascan software, even tried the paperclip jump trick and got no response from the dash when I would before a couple months ago. I took out my ecu and inspected all points inside the ecu and it looks good, when i tried to turn the knob on the ecu to flash the diag led, I got absolutely nothing. I rewired the consult port with new wiring and a new port connection, still get nothing.. Does anyone have any advice? I'm leaning towards a bad ecu since the led wouldn't even light, but i'm not 100% sure. Thanks for any help in advance.
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Good day guys, I'm currently working on a RB20DET that I have bought which was is in a pretty rough state. Just working on the motor and getting it all tidy. I just wanted to know if anyone has extended there injector, water temperature, CAS wiring.Reason being I've bought a front facing plenum and wanted to tuck in the wiring loom to give it a cleaner look around the intake manifold area. Also another thing is I'm going to be running 600CC Nismo injectors, ordered in some new plugs for the injectors as there different. But wanted to know if it does matter which injector plug goes where? or is there a specific order they plug in for each cylinder. My loom is currently out as I'll be extending it. Attached is some photos of the engine bay before and after, Nty to RFB. Cheers guys!
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So I'm looking at switching up my Intake setup due to an aftermarket turbo manifold. Here are my specs before you tell me to spend my money elsewhere or to buy a 25 Yada Yada: Hybrid Performance Turbo Manifold GCG high flowed RB25 turbo GTR Injectors (444cc I believe) Z32 AFM Nistune So, the problem I face is with the standard J Pipe, the exhaust manifold is about an inch from the J Pipe elbow (refer to picture) and this causes concern for Intake Temps. So instead of heat wrapping and shielding and all that, a buddy has a full RB26 intake setup that he said he'd give me if I want it. My main question is if I buy this OtakuGarage adapter plate, what issues will I face? My thinking is that it'll make the intercooler piping shorter, and not run over the exhaust which could heat up my Intake Temps. I'm looking for answers and solutions, not hate on RB20s. Thanks in advance!
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For sale in perfect working condition, tested and can demonstrate working on the running engine: Power FC for RB20DET with hand controller, price $800 Power FC for RB26DETT R32/R33 GTR33L L-jetro, PFC only, price $400, can be modified to run on RB25DET for just $50 with base tune included, already tested on a few setups like this and running perfect. HKS F Con-V Pro ver. 3.24 universal type aftermarket ECU, can be set as L-jetro or D-jetro, price $800 Will help to install, set it up and tune For more information PM or call / email John Sobon, ph. 08 93022085 [email protected] -
hello, will this sandwich plate fit on my '91 gtst with the rb20det. https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Filter-Sandwich-Adapter-Thread/dp/B007SXGAZQ or do I need https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Oil-Filter-Sandwich-Adapter/dp/B001PLNDF2/ref=pd_rhf_cr_s_cp_0_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001PLNDF2&pd_rd_r=PE3WR92ANH9ZN2YZ3TZA&pd_rd_w=j5IbC&pd_rd_wg=nlGKw&psc=1&refRID=PE3WR92ANH9ZN2YZ3TZA Thank you. -
Hello everyone, I am fitting oil and coolant temp gauges to my r32 gtst. I am wondering a few things Normal Oil operating temperature - Oil temp that I should not go above - Normal Coolant operating temperature - Coolant temp that I should not go above - Thank you.
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Need some help with my speed sensor on the RB20DET. I've pretty much figured out where it's located, on top of the transmission, hard to reach without dropping the exhaust. The question is WHERE does it plug into on the harness? I know that the revolution sensor aka speed sensor on the RB20DET in the R32's is supposed to be mechanically driven, though...I've got a shielded cable with a white and red wire coming off of them. Whoever did the motor swap did some wacky wiring and I have no idea where anything goes now. I'm assuming that my speed sensor is electronic then? It's the RE4R01A trans (A/T) so I need anyone with an A/T to give me a hand right now with this. I spent the past several weeks tracking down diagrams for the TCM which are non-existent, diagrams to the transmission plugs (again non-existent) and searched this site up and down and kept getting zero results. The last question would be, IF I maintain the electronic speed sensor on the transmission, how would I wire it up? What plug did anyone use on their RB25 (those are electronic I believe). Obviously any and all help is greatly appreciated. -
There's a question that needs answering, anyone know if the Infiniti G35 rotors will slide onto the R32 GTS-T? The reason I ask is because I had a 2004 G35 and I ordered a set of rotors for it in 2014 which I never installed. Long story short I'm hoping that someone who's familiar with the 350Z Brembo swap and other brake swaps can glance at this and confidently say "yeah that'll work" or "No, you idiot, it's a waste of time. The specs are: Front/Rear Bolt Size: 12.90 mm/12.70 mm Front/Rear OD: 295.70 mm (296 mm?)/291.80 mm (292 mm?) Front/Rear Thickness: 24.00 mm/16.00 mm Front/Rear Height: 49.20 mm/62mm Front/Rear Hub Hole: 68mm/68mm The below chart is just something I figured wouldn't hurt to have on the forum of disc sizes for OEM spec stuff in case anyone had questions. Can't get help without giving it too.
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Got myself an FFP recently, all good and great, took off the lower runners so that I could clean them up, get rid of the 27+ years of road grime and stuff off of it. Ran into the issue of the there being 5 vacuum lines which I cannot identify nor can I find fittings for. I've done countless searches via Google and I can't find anyone who's done a DIY on how to install this dumb thing. Am I missing something?! Even the search bar on this site spits out Google links but never lists anything on the forum. I've got the manifold bolted correctly to the lower runners now, however I don't have the dimensions of what the 5 vacuum ports are. The one at the top side I'm assuming it's going to hook up to brake booster? Check valve? Then there's 4 on the bottom side, again no dimensions to speak of anywhere. I tried fitting with 1/8 npt and those are too big. That's the smallest size I could find at the parts store.
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Hey guys, looking to buy (relatively inexpensive if possible lol) an RB20DET automatic ECU. I can't locate one online and the majority that come up end up not being compatible because they're listed wrong and the serial number is for a manual. Any help is appreciated. I can't find any support in the US. I'mean certain that someone has one or even can go to a pick and pull and get their hands on one. As well need a trans harness for my car. I suspect that the Z32 NA harness will work because it's the same part number transfer though...won't leave to chance. Similarly, instead of starting a new thread, I got an R31 A/T ECU which was used on my R32 by previous owner, ugh. If anyone wants or needs I'll be happy to help out. Maybe we can do an even exchange.
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Hi new here from the US and lack knowledge on if there is a non hicas pump I can use for my RB20DET as I tried capping the 2nd port and removing the splines inside the pump and even welding it shut still leaking. I used the search on here all I could find was hicas delete kits for the rear of the vehicle not the pump I could be searching wrong. Any help would be appreciated or a specific part number for the pump I would need. Thank you in advance
