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Hi! I’m looking to replace my current turbo on my S1 RB25DET in order to make 600HP but maintain responsiveness. I’m looking at the HyperGear ATR43SS-3 in T3 .63 A/R or the Pulsar PSR3576 Gen2 T3 .82 A/R. I’m still learning how turbo sizes effect lag, response, and power band. I’m looking to see if anyone can share their experience with either of these turbos or can recommend another to meet my goal? These are my mods: • Running 91 octane most of the time and occasionally E85 on track days • top mount twin scroll manifold • 44mm external wastage • 1300CC fuel injectors • mishimoto intercooler M-line • 3in intercooler pipes • g-reddy intake manifold • link g4+ • NZWiring trigger kit • GTR R35 coilpacks • built bottom and top • 4” down-pipe and exhaust
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Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?
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Im in the process of swapping out turbos for a Hypergear ATR43SS-2. I bought a water/oil line kit from Mamba, for Garret GT30, according to Tao. All fittings fit properly, except for the water return line. It has a -AN fitting to hose barb. From what I see, I need to remove hardline and install hose barb fitting to rubber line behind the head. I located the rubber line but is there an easier way to gain access without taking valve cover or intake manifold off?
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hello First time poster on any sort of forum so please be nice! looking on advice/experiences people have had with pulsar turbos more specifically the 3576 or 3076, I’m building a r31 with a rb25det series 2 and wanting 300kw, I’m looking for a turbo that won’t come on until low to mid 3k rpm and full boost before or around 4K, only mods that may affect response that I have are top Mount mani and a FFP, thanks in advance
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Hi All I’m Rene, based in Hamilton NZ and am the owner of a silver 1996 R33 coupe. I bought the car in August 2009 and I am the first owner in NZ. When I first purchased the car, it was a bone stock gts25t automatic with approximately 75,000kms on the clock. From memory I paid about $8,600 from the dealer: Mod History So over the years I have done a few modifications. The first real mod I did was wheels (on stock shocks) and tints: Now this was done prior to finding out about SAU/SDU, meaning I had no understanding about things like fitment, so was rolling round in 4x4 spec for some time.. Eventually I became a bit more educated (thanks to the forums) and started to do things a bit better. Rather than write a novel of the last 13 years of ownership, I thought I’d just add the list of mods: Exedy lightweight flywheel Exedy full face organic clutch Braided clutch line Adjustable whiteline swaybars (front and rear) Znoelli dimple drilled and slotted brakes with performance pads (front and rear) Braided brake lines (front and rear) BC Gold adjustable suspension Hicas lock bar Tomei upgraded fuel pump Genuine Greddy front mount intercooler kit 3” exhaust from turbo back, with 3” bellmouth dump R34 OP6 turbo Mishimoto aluminium radiator ATP catch can and speedflow fittings 17x10r and 17x9f wheels with Falken fk452 all round Innovate mtx range gauges (oil, wideband and boost) Funnily enough, this list was actually composed to add to the classified to sell it, however I just can’t bring myself to do it. Did you say M3 @Dose Pipe Sutututu? Anyway, this brings us to the current day The car now has 105,000ks and is barely used as I just don’t have time and it doesn’t really suit being my daily (as I need something more suitable to visit construction sites). I don’t think I have even driven it in the past 12 months.. Build Direction The plan here is to go for a bit of an OEM+ type vibe, so nothing too extreme. I am also planning to modernise a lot of the vehicle with things like new ECU (decided on Haltech), DBW, cruise control etc. The power will eventually get increased with an end goal of around 280-330kw. I am keen to get a bit more motivation and actually get this car build back up and going again. It may not be the fastest build, but I’ll get there eventually! And then I’m less likely to try sell it..
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Hi, went to get some fluid for the reservoir in the boot and the people at the shop seemed to think that this would work? Just wanted to confirm before putting it into my car 😂 -
i recently bought a 240sx with a rb25det its stock with a garret turbo my problem with it now is when i rev and drive it, the engine lags to go past 3k rpm . the boost controller(hks timer turbo) is has no screen on. my gauge on the says er5. the fuel rato is between 39 psi and 41psi what can i do to order to resolved this issue.
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Hello everyone! After years of driving my car, I recently decided to pay attention to my voltage gauge and saw I was only getting 12.5-13v of charge. the alternator charge stud: 14.6V L terminal on the plug: 10.9-11.3V Exciter wire: 10.9-11.3v Whenever I disconnect the charge wire from the battery, the voltage on the exciter wire goes to 12.5-13v and the charge wires shows 14.6v… I don’t get it. As soon as the charge wire is connected to the battery, the exciter voltage drops to 10.9ish volts. The current exciter wiring is weird, as it goes into a relay… I don’t remember why I did that. I’m thinking of changing the wiring to this here: Would this work? thank you, eric
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Hi new to the skyline and car scene. I just picked up an r33 with a rb25det engine. I need to recirculate the stock bov but I'm at a loss. I've done a fair bit of research on it but can't seem to get my head around it anyone brisbane based who could help for cash or know any shops that could fit me in quick. Cheers
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Hi. I have been trying to figure out what wcu's that cross over the same harnes, but whatevwr i google i don't realy get a good answer. I have truble with my rb25det s2 4wd auto car, and want to try to use a Manual ecu in it to se if it migth help with the problems im having, problem is that i have no idea what ecu that wil work with the engien. And yes i do know that the gearbox wont shift on its own if i put a manual ecu in it,
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Hey guys. Need to get the head machined, as a leak down test showed some major leaking coming from the exhaust valves in cylinders 5 and 6. Im looking at upgrading the cams, valve springs, and they will replace the usual little bits and pieces as part of a head refurbishment. Any other things I should do while the heads off?
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hi there i got a HR34 and it stop start i dont know why when i try to start the car it crunk but did not start and when i stop crucking it i get a sound from the trriger ( 3 or 4 tiking sound ) with a engine flashing i change everything and look at the timming for the engine every thing ok i got a haltech plug in ecu this a video for what happening
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Hey everyone, been having a bit of a boost drop on the C34, it was getting its caster rods done the other day and i asked the guy who was doing it and he said the wastegate had a lot of play in it? do i know what that means... not really. but i was wondering what wastegates people here run? stock? aftermarket? just kind of want to see my options. to answer some questions which may be asked its a non neo motor currently does have a stock wastegate i do want to go for more power in the future thanks in advance who replies and tries to help out
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Hi everyone, I’m relatively new to the RB-series world and definitely new when it comes to timing an engine using G4+ link. My car was running well, and then I decided to take everything apart and powder coat it. The engine bay is looking GREAT! However, I can’t get timing right, the idle is all over the place, and it’s backfiring consistently, which I think is causing the engine to overheat as well. Timing is set at 15 degrees on g4+, but I can’t seem to be able to match that on the crank using a timing light Things I messed with: 1. CAS 2. TPS 3. idle control valve Things I observed: Idle: 1,100 to 2,200 RPM, lost of misfire crank timing: 5 degrees How can I get the CAS (at 15 degrees), TPS, and idle control valve to be happy with each other? Any procedures? I’m here to learn! Thank you, Eric
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Hi just wanting an opinion. Purchased a rb25det neo. Doing a freshen up on the motor before installing and was told from the mechanic that upon removing the oil cooler housing that the oil pressure relief valve ball bearing fell out. Just wondering if this maybe being loose in the housing would have caused damage to the motor. Or caused oil pressure problems that would affect other components. Engine was running when removed. Has anyone experienced this. Photo uploaded is to show the part that was affected
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From the album: r34 gtt nismo
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From the album: Skyline R33 Gtst
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From the album: Skyline R33 Gtst
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Hey all. I know there is a plethora of information about Hypergear turbos on these threads, with Tao providing a heap of Dyno results. I was looking at Hypergear's ATR45-SAT (Special application turbocharger) as it will directly bolt on to my existing setup, with some basic fabrication/relocation of some intake piping, and will suffice for my 300-350rwkw power figure I am after with my current setup for street use. Only thing is he doesnt provide any specs from what I can see on the size of the housings, or any sizings of inlets/outlets, which I thought would be basic information you would provide there for your customers to see when deciding to choose your product, like other turbo sellers do. Has anyone got some of their own feedback and dyno results on that specific turbo? Was also looking at Kinugawa turbos that were a direct bolt on, and had heard good things about them, I dont think theyre as popular as they used to be, but has anyone had one recently theyve purchased and used? Any other recommendations with reasoning as to why they went with it?
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Hey guys. Really would love some guidance here, im stuck between a rock and a hard place and makes me sick that ive just had one thing after another go wrong on a car I purchased a month ago. Initially showed an exhaust valve leak from a leak down test, got head off, serviced, machined, replaced a few valves that needed replacing and all the guides, upgraded springs and retainers, upgraded cams to Poncam Type B’s, put it all back together. Popped it on the dyno, made only 180kw at 20PSI of boost. Power dipped at peak torque, so not good. They found it had a slight knock on a cold startup, but went away after a couple seconds. Dropped the oil, and found little bits of metal in the oil and oil filter, great! So bottom end needs some attention now. They didnt want to just replace whats broken, they wanted to go all out forged internals (pistons, rods, rings, crankshaft), get it machined, new oil pump, gaskets, bearings, the lot. Reckon it would come to about $20,000 with a tune after all back together. Im not after a ridiculous build. Its a weekend car to enjoy driving and cruising, im not wanting to make 500kw at the wheels. Reason they wanted to do all new parts is so they could cover their workmanship under their warranty, if something old that wasnt replaced broke, it could become a big thing Can i get some guidance on what I should do here? This is my first time getting into this stuff and the car has just been an absolute shit show from the get go, and makes me sick thinking how ive purchased this car and the engine needs to come out. There were no signs of this from the beginning that it had a bottom end issue, and i have not even driven it 400kms since buying it
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Hey guys. So took my car to a local tuner/mechanic to get it looked over, showed low compression cylinders 5 and 6, they did a leak down test, showed exhaust leak was the culprit. Rest of the cylinders were around 160PSI on average. Only issue i had with the car was with the A/C on, when it was a really hot day, and car was warmed up, when the AC belt engaged/disengaged, the revs would drop a little briefly and before the revs picked back up it dropped enough to stall out, also happened occasionally when going from 3rd to 2nd and i did a slow gear change, the revs would drop and engine would stall briefly until i released the clutch and the engine turned over. With A/C off it wouldn’t do that at all. This particular shop unfortunately didnt have the time to do the work for quite a while due to some race events coming up and the cars they were working on for those, so went to another shop that had a bit of a shorter time before i could get in, and had good reviews. They took the heads off, got it machined, serviced, new head studs, new gaskets, upgraded the valve springs and retainers, upgraded the cams, put it all back together. Theyre now getting about 120-130PSI across all cylinders, car really struggles to start up, and is making only 180kw ATW on 20PSI of boost, and previous owner who had all the work/tune done had 300kw ATW when he got a dyno test done Is there something shonky going on? How can the PSI drop so bad across the 4 front cylinders that were ok originally?
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Hi first time posting on here after many hours of reading trying to sort my r33 Okay its a r33 rb25 series 2 and it randomly starts misfiring really bad, it will splutter, or if on full throtle it will completely hit a flat spot again and again and it even cuts out at times. Plugs are fine replaced the cheap ebay coilpacks to stock ones and even replaced the cas, was thinking harness but when running you can pull on it and it wont missfire. Thing is it does it randomly like on a few odd ocasions it will run absolutely mint no problems at all then it will run so shit like some days it will cut out over and over again...want to get to thw bottom of this, any help is really apreciated
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Hey so we found out that the car is being flooded with gas after stalling or being driven around a lot, the plugs were soaked after testing it. So sounds like things aren't getting hot enough in the ignition system, do you think it needs new plugs and coilpacks? if so what types should I get? I've heard about people running ls1 coilpacks in the rb25
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Hey guys. Have been putting this off, but regretfully needs to be done. Selling my 97 C34 Stagea RSFour. Located in St Kilda. It's on TAS rego with custom plates which I'm hoping to keep and sell separately. I'm open to negotiations as far as how we go about transferring it to you, depending on sale price etc. Eg I sell it unregistered to you, but drive it to yours before taking the plates off so you don't need to truck/trailer it. Willing to figure it out with whoever buys it, there's a few options. I'm after $8k as-is, with no plates/rego/rwc. The good: - Very straight and tidy, inside and out. - Nismo-rep bodykit (minus front bar which is stock with a lip). - Rota 17" TE reps with good Dunlop SP Sport. - BC Coilovers. - FMIC, boost controller, turbo timer. - Exhaust - Decent stereo, Clarion VZ402A with flip up screen, mp3/bluetooth/dvd/etc, Pioneer sub in Pioneer box, etc. - Has the sought after original floor mats, cargo net, and rear cargo cover. Also has various spare parts. - Various other bits and pieces, A pillar boost gauge, quick release battery terminals, etc. The bad: - Brake booster is shot, needs replacing. Comes with a spare that needs rebuilding, so you have 2 to work with and figure it out. - Needs an O2 sensor. Drives fine, but has some mid-range weirdness. - It's been sitting a while due to next bit below, so battery is dead, but when trickle-charged/jumped it starts up first go every time and purrs. I have quite serious medical issues, and am effectively bed-bound. Due to these issues, I'm also flat broke, so while the issues are small, I can't afford to fix them before sale. I think the price is fair in reflection of that, but I'm open to some negotiation for a quick/easy sale. In saying that, I'm not entertaining stupid offers. It's a solid car that just needs someone to love it again. This also means I can't meet anywhere, and it can only be looked at here in St Kilda. No test drives outside of around our underground car park due to the brakes, but you're more than welcome to inspect it as close as you want. It's an honest car and a very VERY regretful sale.
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Hi, after a r34 rb25det neo engine complete with all bolt ons, wiring loom and ecu. the lower the km and unmodified the better. Prefer for it to be in Melbourne for inspection and pickup. Thanks
