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Showing results for tags 'rb26'.
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rb26 Running RB26 Long Block
Shortyesquire posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Selling the RB26 long block out of my 1999 Stagea S2 260rs restomod project. Basically planning to replace the long block with a Tomei/N1 RB28 stroker, but keep all the ancillaries to take it back to stock if need be. Car has done 200k kms, but has good compression (>160psi) on all cylinders, and has good oil pressure with Penrite 10-50. I've just replaced the belts and water pump. Can get my mechanic (an independent Nissan GTR specialist) to confirm. Will include sump, valve, ignition and timing covers. Won't include intake manifold, ITBs, exhaust manifolds, turbos, clutch etc. The car is running nicely and I'm happy to take people for a test drive in Sydney. Looking for $12,000 but negotiable. SMS or call me on 0411953301. Cheers, Andrew -
After having attempted to find out which cylinders I will need to focus my knock listening on for my buddies R32 GTR, my searches have come up dry. So I come here to inquire as to your experiences with which cylinders are more likely to knock or knock sooner or more frequently than others in high horsepower applications. I will update this once I get a chance with the actual full build list if required but here's the basics: Built RB26 block and head, Kelford 182-C 282dur 9.2mm cams, Upgraded housing and T51R mod GTX3582R Gen 2 Billet wheel/BB, 100mil jdm intercooler, super fire coil packs, Frenchy's twin fuel hanger with dual Walbro 450s, n1 oil pump w billet gears, PRP adjustable cam gears, Nitto head oil drain, Mishimoto rad & fans, id1300cc injectors, flex fuel kit, billet fuel rail, ported stock intake manifold??(might change), can't think of anything else at this point, lmk if there's anything else. In addition, I was curious if the build would be better off with a Haltech or link or the many others that are slipping my mind, or is it mostly personal preference? -
Hi SAU, Having boost related issue with my BCNR33. Car is making no boost! Triple gauge is registering vacuum, needle moves from negative to 0kg/cm2. Car drives normally, no sputtering or misfiring. AFRs also reading normal. Acceleration feels normal up until 3500rpm or so where you can begin to feel the lack of grunt. No woosh sounds either, just the sound of the HKS mushrooms sucking air. Just a little background on the car: HKS2530s, 2.8, E85, VIPEC V88, ~20psi max boost, 4in Exhaust. Recently had front turbo oil feed replaced by mechanic due to the old one being cracked. Got car back from them on a Sat and it was boosting fine but felt a little underpowered. Didn't drive car again till Wed. This is when is stopped boosting all together. Didn't hear any bang/pop, didn't notice any smoke either. Currently waiting to hear back from mechanic. In the mean time have inspected piping on both hot and cold sides (also checked FMIC piping behind indicator grilles) for potential boost leak, however wasn't able to find anything loose or hissing. Doing a little research on these forums leads me to believe that it could be a blown turbo or a blocked/malfunctioning CAT. All of the posts regarding no boost and blown turbos usually are owners with ceramic wheel turbos, which mine aren't. With my limited mechanical knowledge and tools I've taken as much piping as I can to check the turbos. The front turbo looks okay? It spins freely and has no shaft play. Don't have the tools to check the rear turbo as I can't get that elbow looking thing off to inspect the wheel. I'm yet to inspect the CAT. Question: If one turbos blown will I be getting half the amount of full boost or just no boost at all? Question: What are the chances of the CAT causing the absence of boost? I assume it would have been the ceramic wheels dropping into them. But again, I'm certain I don't have ceramic wheels. Question: What do you reckon is causing no boost? Appreciate any and all help!
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Hi I have a set of GT2859R-9s that im wanting to rebuild and put on my rb26 gts4 32. I am wanting to push around 400-500hp and was wondering is that possible? to note the car has the following mods 880cc injectors, echuast, apexi fc commander, oem fuel pump. should i do any other mods because the turbos are out? also what ecu do people recommend (in future im wanting to go single turbo set up) thanks all! -
Hi all to the community, I am new in the JDM scene and i am so exited! i would like some advice from all and possibly what i can do, will try to add as much as detail in for everyone ! I have recently purchased a r32 gts4 skyline with a rb26 in it. so the previous owner had it for 6 years and always serviced ect it every 5000kms, the engine now has 180 xxx kms on it. back to the question, he had issues with the twins so he removed them and bought a single turbo garret ec-1 a/r7 - xjm 62406 and a manifold and wastegate to suit. he then lost interest and the car sat for 6 months. i have purchased the car like this and went to 2 tuning shops these are my options 1) tune shop 1- chuck n5s 2860s turbos, aftermarket manifold, dump pipe + tune 2) tune shop 2- bring the car in (with the twins again) and they will have a look at it because it might be the load limit and the turbos might be fine. they also said i might have to look into a rebuild as its at 180 000kms. 3) ???? thanks everyone for reading this! i hope all is having a lovely day / night
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Hi guys, I have a brand new, never been fitted Hypertune RB26 T4 twin scroll exhaust manifold (40mm gates) with EGT and E map bungs for sale. Located in Kogarah Bay, NSW, 2217. Would prefer pickup but will post at buyers expense. Price: $3150 -
From the album: rb 26 30
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Hi gents, sincerely asking you guys the theoretical or actual power figures expected from the setup below: HKS Y pipes & 80mm cat back, Sard (denso) 720cc injectors, DW300 pump, R35 MAFs, Twin HKS 2530's (stock headers), Trust intercooler, stock BOV, stock intake plenum & TB's, N1 oil pump, MLS head gasket, forged pistons, poncam B's, Power FC, pump RON97, nismo coppermix twin plate, 18's on 265 rubber. So I've pretty much listed all that matters with regards to making and putting the power down. Asking as I may or may not be getting the full potential of my setup (bottom end was running 600rwhp on a different car). I have done numerous Dyno sessions with slightly different setups but more or less the same outcome which leads me to conclude (reluctantly) the setup is maxed out. Will share graphs but would like you to share your input first for better effect. Thanks in advance, guys!
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Hey guys. So my bottom end has a potential issue, engine comes out to drop the sump later this week to see exactly what, has a bit of a knock on cold start up that goes away. My heads were recently done due to a found exhaust valve leak, so upgraded springs and retainers, and upgraded drop in cams while it was out. Heads went back on and we found the bottom end was knocking at high RPM (not very loud as was heard through the knock box and ear muffs) when they were doing a dyno run with the new head on. Car hasnt been started up again since I have the option to purchase a freshly machined and honed RB25DET block, with a R34 GTR RB26 Crank, Nitto rods, nitto oil pump, new head studs, main studs, new main bearings for $3500, will need to get my own pistons though as he used the pistons for his RB25/30 build he ended up doing instead, and has had the built block sitting for a while and wants to clear it out. Block had only been assembled for test fitment of everything, then pulled apart so he could use the Nitto Pistons he had in his RB30 build OR Get my current RB25DET Neo bottom end fixed up, possible machining, new bearings, new rings, etc etc. Wasnt looking to do forged internals but could go down that track Was looking to make 300-350 rwkw for now, maybe 400rwkw, as I do have all supporting mods already outside the engine to go to that power (besides the turbo but will upgrade that while im at it) Will i see much of a difference using the RB26 internals? I know the crank has a longer stroke, what advantages will I see and is it worth just getting the almost-ready-to-drop-in bottom end and going with that, or freshening up my stock Neo bottom end? thanks in advance
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Rb26 Gtr turbos 2860 -9 with hks actuators. Estimated usage 2000 kms on them , min shaft play , Comes with some gaskets Change of direction as I’m going single turbo . Asking $1100 Pm if interested ? -
Got a lot of stuff I dont need any more, would be happy to give someone a package deal to clear up space and increase car funds from 0. All parts are off my late -93 R32 GTR. Apexi power fc with commander MINES ecu Presumably stock ECU with kakimoto racing sticker on it Z32 AFM's with hard pipes and HKS filters (painted black now to match the rubber) Original AFM's, mounting tabs are damaged on one of them but both were OK when I removed them Stock ignition coils with mounting aluminum thingy Stock ignition amplifier Aerocatch hood/panel fasteners, carbon look, recessed version Might have some more things I want to get rid off, will update if I find anything. I have no idea what's reasonable regarding pricing, saw another Apexi that got sold for 700 aud, so lets say 700 aud including shipping for mine (excluding import fee's). The rest? Give me a reasonable offer and I will get back to you, also open to offers on the Apexi. Shipping for "5 kg/110 cm" is 99 aud, smaller is cheaper..
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Who has used one? Has anyone cracked a block since fitting one? Discuss.
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Up for sale is my supertech solid converted RB25 head, Genuine GReddy Intake Manifold with Plazmaman Rail and 1650cc Bosch Motorsport E85 Injectors. RB25 Supertech head - 1mm valves, solid lifters, big port job, runs RB26 cams clearanced for 10.25mm lift. Just had freshen up, new valve seats cut and face skimmed. $2000 DOES NOT COME WITH CAMS. GReddy with 82mm TB, Rail and Injectors $1600 Also have 3/8 L19 Rod bolts. Came out of my spool rods. $200 -
Hey guys, I was looking into doing an rb26 swap with an s15 but wasn’t sure about the legal side of things, I figured this would be the best place to ask. Info would be greatly appreciated!
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Hello I need a new RB26 block as my current one has a coolant leak near the rear welsh plug Does anyone have a bare block available??? Cheers Wayne
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vic Apexi power fc Rb26 r32/33 gtr
Pierreb posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Hey all, Selling my Apexi power fc as I’m upgrading to a haltech. Comes with hand controller. Suits r32/r33. Located south east vic. Thanks -
Looking for rb26 pistons. Stock 86mm Bore Prefer N1's or forged Prefer a full set but a couple of N1's would get me out of trouble. Thanks,
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Hi Gents, Its been sometime since I have been on the forums and I've had to create a new account because I have changed emails!Well the time has come for me to selling my R33 GTR V-spec. It's a series 3 model, which is the highly sort after model being the last full year of production for the GTR. NOTES:I have priced this considering; Revs check indicates that the car has written off status reported due to storm damage, which I am from the understanding it had occurred during the Perth hail hail storm. Not sure because I didn't own the car then.. there is no signs of hail damage to any panels and it has been repaired. Yes the car is registered, still licensed and insurable. It's not an accident write off, it's been recorded as storm/other. The car is in good condition and registered. Its licensed No money owing on the car. Factory Series 3 Xenon headlamps Factory Series 3 interior in great condition Factory steering wheel Nismo gear shifter Nismo floor mats Nismo 300km/h cluster Stock RB26DETT Stock 5 speed gearbox Factory Brembo Brakes Factory Xenon Headlights Genuine Nissan Engine Coil Cover Ornament Koyo Radiator Twin Garrett Turbos - 7071605005S / GT2860r-5s on stock manifold Apexi Stainless steel cat-back system. Trust front pipes Stainless steel dump pipes Twin Apexi Air Filters 100mm intercooler Spitfire coilpacks Platinum Pro ECU HKS EVC Unit Apexi Turbo Timer Do-Luck Tarzan Gbox Controller for g sensor Kenwood cd / usb / bluetooth head unit Pioneer A1606C speakers in front. Alpine SPR-60C speakers in rear Alpine Type R Sub Alpine MRP-M450 mono block Amp Sound deadener install to doors, rear panels and boot area. Carbon Fibre Rear Wing 18" ENKEI RPF1 Matte Black 10.5" rims with 285 road tyres on all four rims. Bilstein Adjustable Suspension Slotted and drilled rotors to front and slotted rotors to the rear. Comes with Japanese deregistration paperwork. Runs great, makes approx 350awhp at 15psi. Good condition for age. Car is listed else where. Bad Points The car has had hail damage to the left hand side and paper notes its a write off, hence why its priced accordingly. Air conditioning needs fixing, have a spare compressor. 1x small rust scab at passage rear quarter near the side window. Small out dent on drivers door. Jacking points slight creased on one side. Trust front pipe is dented. Few nicks here and there but still presents itself well for the age. Asking Price: $35,000 AUD. Location: Perth WA NOT PARTING / NO DREAMERS / TEST PILOTS... AS I WILL BE DOING THE DRIVING - CAR IS IN STORAGE! -
Chasing a pair of damaged / failed Garrett 2860-5 turbos. If their not failed they need to be 'failed' pricing.
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Brand new Nissan N1 RB26 Block for sale Still in the box and original packaging. Kudos Motorsport (no stock) RhdJapan (no stock) Nengun (no stock) Justjap - (no stock) $6499 Price $5500. Located Morebank NSW 2170 for pickup or can ship at your cost. -
nsw/act Various RB26 Parts
BlueThirtyFour posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Hey Guys, Looking to sell the following parts off my R34 GTR which are all in great working order and have done around 10k. 1x Power FC and hand control - $450, tuned by IS Motorracing for Z32, 1000cc injectors and HKS GTRS turbos on 98. 2x z32 with chrome piping for rb26 - $200 for the both, no plugs 6 x 1000cc denso injectors (part number 195500-3650) with brand new rubber seals - $400 1x rb26 twin turbo intake pipe - $80 or $900 take the lot Pick in Revesby after hours or Campsie during office hours -
So im trying to refresh my setup to get more response, torque, this is purely a drift car, but i cant seem to decide what would work out to achieve my goals.... I was planning to get tomei cams, 260 9.15mm, but as far as ive seen the stock ones give a better low end/mid torque setup, springs and retainers ill hold it off for now since i dont wanna rev more, i want low end torque.... exhaust manifold ive been reading that the stock one being a log style, would give better spool.... only thing that comes to mind right now is a standalone ecu and switch from 100 octane to VP fuels 109 octane or VP 113 with lead and give it more timing.... maybe even switch the headgasket to a thinner one to get 10.5:1 CR What are the options for these engines to improve it torque wise and in the low rpm range? RB25 Neo specs: -Rb26 Crank, CP 26 Pistons, Eagle rods -RB25 Neo head, quench pads removed, 2.5mm cometic HG, compression ratio is around 9.5:1 -Stock exhaust manifold, Godspeed intake manifold -Holset HE351 turbo -550cc rx7 injectors -Z32 ecu, chipped -Oil control mods, crank collar, jun oil pump, restrictors etc etc. Last time i broke the exhaust poncam installing it so im back to stock cams. But now im stumped. i dont know whats the best plan, budget is not very big and the turbo selection was made because i can easily repair and replace that turbine without hazzle (im in a Caribbean island), thats the dyno sheet, its pretty close to my last dyno on a stock rb25 neo, before mixing the rb26 forged parts. Compression ratio stayed pretty much the same so i guess thats why. (Stock is 9.5 i think right?) and i had 450hp @ 23psi before, so im pretty much in the same position as before. That was last friday, i broke the clutch on sunday, it was slipping so i think thats why the dyno sheet has a weird peak in 2 places. speed remained constant so thats why we ignored that we had a clutch problem but it was definitely slipping on the track @ WOT
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Hi guys, Apologies, I know this might seem like a stupid question to some of you. I've just bought an R32 GTR. Link ecu, single turbo etc. The crankcase breather setup is- all stock except breathing into a vented catch can instead of feeding back in before the turbo. Now based on previous experience this makes for a huge vacuum leak! Tonight I tried blocking off the pcv and simply breathing both valve covers into the catch can. The car idled at 900rpm (usually 1100rpm) and sounded slightly less 'lumpy'. The car is currently on stands so can't drive it unfortunetly. My question is...is it possible the car was set up and tuned with the stock but vented set up (vac leak). Or is that likely an uneducated modification by a previous owner. Obviously no mafs with the link ecu. But I cant see how the ecu can measure the air coming in through the pcv valve when off boost. Thanks heaps, Luke
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I have been using Platinum Pro Plug-in for my R34 GTR for awhile now, I see many people switching to Hall Effect Sensors for the RB26. Anyone have postive experience here? I’m planning out my RB28 build now and would like to know what is the involvment in switching stock sensors to these aftermarket trigger kits? I’m thinking to use this kit that places a Hall effect sensor at the exhaust cam and crank as well. Specifically this kit https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/nissan-rb-crank-cam-trigger-kit-twin-cam/ -
For sale hks spark amplifier Hks dli model tw14588 Bought brand new for 450 used for 9000kms Includes install instructions in English and diagrams Works great made big difference on my vg30dett Can be installed on rb20 rb25 rb26 Selling for $300 these are discontinued now
