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Showing results for tags 'rb26dett'.
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Hello everyone! After years of driving my car, I recently decided to pay attention to my voltage gauge and saw I was only getting 12.5-13v of charge. the alternator charge stud: 14.6V L terminal on the plug: 10.9-11.3V Exciter wire: 10.9-11.3v Whenever I disconnect the charge wire from the battery, the voltage on the exciter wire goes to 12.5-13v and the charge wires shows 14.6v… I don’t get it. As soon as the charge wire is connected to the battery, the exciter voltage drops to 10.9ish volts. The current exciter wiring is weird, as it goes into a relay… I don’t remember why I did that. I’m thinking of changing the wiring to this here: Would this work? thank you, eric
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From the album: Purple GTS4 4-door with RB26dett
The engine out of the car after the rear turbo failed lunching the motor. Sad face. -
From the album: Stagea 260rs
took the car to willowbank while in brisbane on holidays ran a best of 13.2 at 103 with 1.8 60 foots, mods, trust front pipe k and n filter-
- drags
- willowbank
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(and 3 more)
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From the album: Stagea 260rs
took the car to willowbank while in brisbane on holidays ran a best of 13.2 at 103 with 1.8 60 foots, mods, trust front pipe k and n filter -
From the album: Stagea 260rs
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From the album: Stagea 260rs
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Wanted to buy R33 bottom end, not fussed on condition etc. Inbox me if available.
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Hi, So after towing my car on a car trailer it started to run really rough, it went to an alarm installer and got immobiliser, alarm, tracker installed but two days later it wouldn't even run. It kicks over but engine just won't actually start. The injectors are getting very low pulse and the crank angle sensor doesnt have a heap of spark when turn manually or via ignition, we've already had the alarm guys test it and they are adamant it isn't the immobilizer causing any issue. At the same time the spark plugs are now fouled, and two relays in the boot connecting to the twin fuel pumps have blown as well. Any ideas where to start looking? The ECU is a black box and there is a eflex sensor and AEM AFR cut in place which reports but then when trying to crank says sensor offline.
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One of the hoses on the rear of the engine(drivers side) are leaking coolant. I can't see any other way then to pull the plenum off (I've heard it's a fun job). I guess I should replace all the hoses I can when it's off. What are recommended, OEM or silicon? Are there any kit's with all hoses needed? Anything else that would be wise to replace when the plenum is off(except gasket)?
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Good day guys, I'm currently working on a RB20DET that I have bought which was is in a pretty rough state. Just working on the motor and getting it all tidy. I just wanted to know if anyone has extended there injector, water temperature, CAS wiring.Reason being I've bought a front facing plenum and wanted to tuck in the wiring loom to give it a cleaner look around the intake manifold area. Also another thing is I'm going to be running 600CC Nismo injectors, ordered in some new plugs for the injectors as there different. But wanted to know if it does matter which injector plug goes where? or is there a specific order they plug in for each cylinder. My loom is currently out as I'll be extending it. Attached is some photos of the engine bay before and after, Nty to RFB. Cheers guys!
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Hello guys, I’m contemplating to convert my RWD 425hp RB25DET in my 240sx to an AWD. I hear all I need is the AWD transmission and AWD oil pan. Well, plus the hubs and axles, and probably oil pan adapter plate. But is it possible and what are all the parts I would need? It doesn’t sound hard to do. I’m contemplating this conversion for safer all year driving, faster track time/ acceleration. Better performance. Could I just change my tire setup and increase HP to achieve close AWD performance instead?
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I thought I had a boost leak with the sound I could hear for along time but couldn't find it. Lately I have noticed my - 5s have had some smoke when coming to a stop. I don't think it's my valve stem seals as this was all done in my built motor. Turbos have done about 40,000kms at 500hp and now pushing 600 since tune 2 months ago. Do you think I'm on the right track?
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Hello my name is Ben and I'm new to this website and forum but I am in search of help finding the problem with my 1991 R32 GTR. Back in October the head blew out a coolant path and had to be removed and welded and fixed so cylinder 6 would not have coolant draining into the cylinder. It worked and was put back on the car with new metal gaskets from a tomei gasket set and a slew of other new parts like a Kevlar greddy timing belt, new water pump, new exhaust guides in the head, all new rubber hoses all over the engine bay(because the others were 28 years old), new mishimoto radiator, new tensioner, tensioner spring, and along with other small things all over the engine bay. During the process of having the head off he cleaned all the throttle bodies which he then found out from someone that builds rb's that he shouldn't have done that(not sure why). When it was all said and done and put back together my mechanic didn't want to give the car back until he looked into a sound coming from the engine bay at idle. It sounds like a whining or whiring sound if you will. It cant be heard when moving but at a stop and idle it can be heard quite loudly in the car and standing outside of it. My mechanic thinks it might have something to do with the throttle bodies being cleaned but is not sure. The car runs and drives great(better then before it broke). He is not positive what the sound is and asked all his other mechanic friends in the area and had them listen to it and they weren't sure or 100% on what it could be either. Just hoping someone could help me out. My initial thoughts are the Kevlar belt making the sound because it is tighter and doesn't have as much give but I'm not sure. Attached is a video of the noise. Clip isnt very long but it gets louder if you rev it up to about 2k and then it quites down a bit. If you have any ideas please help me out. IMG-6232.MOV
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Currently having a issue with my new set of gt2860-5 Turbos hitting the the first runner of each HPI manifold. There was no fitment issue with the R34 N1 Turbos that were on before. The two pics with the exhaust wrap was the old setup. So should I cut the runners?
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Hey guys, I have a bunch of bits and pieces for sale to suit R32 gtr's that are no longer needed. Located in Adelaide, but more than happy to post ifeel free to pm me or message my mobile on 0412 618 558 f you have any questions. Open to reasonable offers as well guys. APEXi Power FC D-Jetro to suit R32/R33 GTR $1250 - Brand new , just not needed now that I've decided to go in a different direction. Includes complete D-jetro wiring kit (harness, sensors, and nipples). HKS AFM Replacement pipes $250 - Brand new, was to be used with the d-jetro ecu above. Will do the above two for $1400 if sold together GReddy twin 60mm A pillar guage holder $100 - To suit R32s Genuine R32 GTR N1 boot lip $300 - Primed and ready to paint, the original threads to bolt it down are still there as well. Nismo G-MAX Spec 1 twin plate clutch $250 - Pull type, to suit late model R32 & R33 GTRs. Still 3.3mm of meat left on the plates (limit is 2.7mm according to nismo) so still a bit of meat but may be better suited to just rebuild it anyway. Any Questions don't hesitate to message me
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Looking for pistons for rb26dett, preferably bore size 86.5mm, that can ship to UK.
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Hello, I'm looking for a set of rear quarter fender malls for the R34 GTR. Here's a picture of what i'm talking about. I believe the terminology might be different however this is the part i'm looking for. https://imgur.com/a/OfoFE The arching piece above the wheels. Does anyone know a manufacturer or shop that sells and ships these parts internationally? I'm located in Canada. Thanks!
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See if this can stir the pot. BNR32 GTR 1990 (PAINTED WHITE, no idea when). 17psi (Garret 2860-5’s) Full engine rebuild at EAS Performance KM’s: 125,000 km’s on body, < 25,000km’s on Engine. Price: $45,000 Registered with RWC. Firm. Location: Victoria. PM me if you’re genuine and financial. No test drives, until I have cash in pocket. I can drive you though! This R32 GTR was purchased from JSA Imports in Melbourne/Preston over 10 years ago. I was the first to register this car in Australia when it had 87,000 kms on dash. There was slight amount of rust occurring within the inner drivers side rear guard when I went to purchase this car. Which I had them cut out rust and fixed professionally before purchasing it. I can see a slight amount of bubbling in paint from more rust in the same lower part of the guard 10 years later. Since owning this car there has been a lot of money spent on it. There has been no cheap parts put into this car. As I have purchased all the top of the range parts when rebuilding this motor. The motor was rebuilt by EAS Performance in Melbourne/Airport West, the engine machining and blue printing was down at Williamstown Engine Rebuilds. I have added three new electric 'Mirror Drift' gauges to the original cluster on the interior console, the original 'air vents' have fallen apart. I will arrange for the three new OEM vents to be replaced before purchase. Apart from that the interior is pretty good (2x small holes in drivers seat plus some passenger seat stains). Plus one small dint in bonnet. Engine - full rebuild by EAS Performance Arias Piston Stock Rebuilt Head Oil galleries filed down or bolts for better oil flow in bottom end also. Eagle H-Beam Rods ARP 2000 Head Bolts Stud Kit ACL Race Series Engine Bearings (Big End/Main) NISMO Racing Oil Baffle Plate N1 NISMO Oil pump N1 NISMO Water Pump R34 JUN Crank Collar Splitfire Coil Packs Garret 2 x 2860 -5’s Twin X-Force Split Dump Pipes X-Force 'Varex' Electronic Cannon Muffler. 92db - 110db (3-stage remote control) GTR Stock BOV's Stainless Steel 3.0 Inch Exhuast System Engineered NISMO Rebuild-able Twin Plate Button Clutch (Pop Riveted Clutch Pads). JDM Smoked Side Indicators Tinted Windows This GTR is not quite finished as yet. But it is one clean R32 GTR if anyone is interested in finishing it. Things to do on this car. New ECU + Fuel System CAM's and Gears Suspension Brakes + Wheels Inter-cooler + Piping. If interested in this car, contact me via email at, [email protected]
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RB26DETT head - Sonic Tested - Blasted - Decked - Valve seats machined - TOMEI Bronze Guides installed Price: $1500 Location : WA, Can Post
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rb26dett WTB RB26DETT complete engine with or without gearbox
Chewy01 posted a topic in Wanted to Buy
Hi guys I’m after RB26dett complete engine with gearbox or without, must be in good compression no smoke or leak. Cheers State: vic -
hi guys I have for sale a HKS GT3037 turbo kit for GTR RB26dett! HKS 3037 Ceramic turbo kit, rebuilt at 5000KMS by Per4manz Turbochargers in Perth . Kit as seen above, complete with 1 x Ceramic coated airbox 2 x HKS 3037s ceramic coated turbo's 2 x HKS ceramic coated tubular top mount manifolds 2 x HKS ceramic coated 50mm external wastegates with screamers 2 x ceramic coated Down pipes 1 x cermamic coated Piping kit 2 x HKS heat shields Kit suitable for applications up to 1000hp at the flywheel PLEASE CONTACT ME IF INTRESTED [email protected] 0403065666
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I have for sale for R33 and some general parts also Impul Front strut brace removed from BCNR33, It's pretty clean, side plates are also alloy and cup to the strut tower. Awesome brace, and Impul stuff is awesome. (May also fit R34?) $220 ONO BCNR33 Factory rear strut brace, Adjustable, sweet red skyline sticker so you don't forget what type of car you have, Its in decent condition. $140 ONO RB26DETT valve covers, plug cover with plaque, and front timing cover with the vac hose on there, Currently being polished, will chuck pics are soon as I get them back. $offer (Sorry for phone pic quality)
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Hi All, Chasing a crank to suit RB26DETT, must be straight and in good condition, and have the long oil drive from a Late R32, R33 or R34 GTR. Let me know what you have. cheers