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Showing results for tags 'rebuild'.
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I will post pictures as I’m progressing here’s pick up and starting the tear down IMG_7166.mov- 85 replies
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who/ where in adelaide should i go to have a skyline gearbox either rebuilt or bought and installed, preferably an exchange arangement? got a 32 with a stuffed gearbox which i am hoping to have taken out and a 2nd hand one exchanged in, maby rebuilf the stuffed one depending on cost differenced. looking city to north, nothing south
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now my car is sold I won't need these parts anymore, everything is brand new some even still in original packaging except for the mirrors, located in Sydney but happy to ship prices are VERY cheap so get in quick! 1. RB Cometic head gasket brand new still in box $250 2. ARP head studs for RB25 - brand new in box $180 3. Tomei Oil Gallery Restrictors / orifice x2 @ ea- brand new in original packaging, $20 ea 4. Front Lower Control arm polyurethane bushes- brand new never used $50 5. rear upper control arm bushes - Brand new in original packaging $30 6. Front lower control arm ball joints- RWD model only, brand new in box $40 7. R33 side mirrors- white, paint condition average, drivers side doesn't fold in automatically, but still folds out, otherwise everything still fine $30 Please PM me if interested -
Hi guys, I recently got my block back from machinists and its missing dowels etc which is fine as I will replace those. But behind the oil pump there is a hole in the block shown in the pictures below and im not sure if its meant to be sealed or left open. From memory I thought there may have been a little steel ball bearing lodged in there. Not sure. So for all those guys that have built rb26's or have pictures that can be referenced I would really appreciate some help. Thanks Jason
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I got this car in pretty rough shape but it had a running 25 neo, haltech and a specialties engine harness. It didnt run well, awful ecu calibration, blown tomei turbo, a fuel pump flying around the fuel tank and a parasitic drain on the battery. Ive had it for about a 1.5 years now at the time of starting this thread and Ive been thru every part of this car. Ive converted to electric fans, created a few relay circuits to eliminated the battery drain, relocated the battery and this list goes on and on. Its a fun side project so things aren't in a rush and I don't daily drive the car. It sees a few track days but I mostly run my Camaro ss for those. All work is done by me in my garage, even the ECU calibration. The over all paint job was sent to a body shop though. So current mod list is Engine-Rb25 neo stock with smoothed exhaust port humps Tomei MX8265 rebuilt, 3inch side exit, Greddy FMIC, Haltech platinum,Tomei timing belt, Denso 550cc, zerofab fuel rail, DW400 pump, unknown IM and 90mm TB, grimmspeed boost controller, Ebay radiator,hks cap, mishimoto fans, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 12lb flywheel Chassis- S15 Helical LSD, delrin subframe bushings, spherical rear tie rods and rucas, KBee coilovers altered spring rates, 300zx calipers, powerstop trackday pads, steel lines, Impul R5 wheels, 255/40r17 R888r, corner balanced, half stripped interior r32 gtr seats, personal steering wheel, gktech shifter springs and brass collar, poly steering rack bushings, spherical tension rods, s13 rear sway bar Seized and rusted ISR coilovers that came with the car had to be cut off the front stud Clutch fan failure is the reason I went electric New Shoes Then on to body work, dent repair and deleting the type M wing and making holes for the GTR wing Subframe refresh The used Kbee coilovers needed new bushings but I cant get in touch with them so I fitted some VW bus sway bar bushings into them haha nasty sound deading removal with dry ice Align and balance, thats the before weights Stock turbo dyno 248whp at 14psi -
hello! i have been looking for information on how to rebuild the brakes on a 1995 r33 gtr. i would like to rebuild them myself, but i am having a heck of a time finding anything other than replacement seals. i am looking for replacement/ upgraded pistons, torque specs, the gasket that goes between the caliper halves, if any. i have searched for any kind of documentation on this, but i don't seem to find anything other than engine manuals. on the bremboparts.com site, they only offer replacement pads. no pins, shims, or anything else. does anyone have, or know of, a walkthrough of how to rebuild the calipers? does anyone know of a place to order replacement parts? as these are brembos that were widely used, i really thought all this stuff would be more readily available. -
I Have an R34 GT N/A and I rebuilt it and converted the working engine With: -CP Neo forged pistons -Manley Rods -Garret Gt3071r DDB Turbo -Series 2 stock fuel rail and injectors -Series 2 exhaust manifold -SplitFire Neo coils - New iridium NGK Plugs -255 Walbro Fuel Pump -Freddy Forward Facing intake -Stock GTT R34 NEO Turbo ECU -Many Many more.... After my conversion build with all new parts, i primed it and started on the first Crank. CURRENT STATUS: -Crank and starts instantly every single time and runs only when applying throttle THE PROBLEMS - Sounds great however it if you do not apply throttle and leave her idle, she is struggle to breathe and stutters and will die - Jumps up and down the rev range by her self - Cannot find a decent idle and when she does its not for long - After reeving and she goes back down she dies - Sometimes when reeving she break up on her own SOLUTIONS/TROUBLE SHOOTING - TPS sensor needed to be adjusted to get the right Ohms. After we fixed it it seemed to be more consistent when reeving and staying and holding at an RPM's and slightly better idling. - Idle air Controller, adjusted the screw and tried over 10 positions, although it actually really helped idling it still did not cure the dying at idle problem and finding a good idle problem. NEXT STEP (tomorrow) Take a look at the base/ignition timing with a timing light to the notches on the crank pulley and adjust it with the CAS sensor? DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH IGNITION TIMING? HOW DO I DO IT PROPERLY? WHAT DO THE NOTCHES INDICATE? WHAT NOTCH DO I WANT TO BE AT? ANY ADVICE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED -
Hey Guys, I am rebuilding my BNR32 RB26 motor. I am doing a ground up rebuild from crank up. I am going fully forged pistons with billet conrods etc etc, im not taking any shorcuts but what i need help with is the camshaft. I would like to get a slightly lumpy note can someone give me an idea of which one to get with a reasonably stock head. I have heard the Tomei Poncam 260 degree with 9.15 lift is the way to go as they are a drop in fit? and allow enough room for valve clearance etc. I truly have no idea about the cams so any feedback is appreciated. I do not want to spend a fortune on cams as i have spent ALOT of money already. Will i need to buy new lifters and springs also? Thanks!
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hey guys. just in the process of building my rb26dett and I just wondering what other have done or some usefull info I could use. it is getting stripes atm and ive got a budget like everyone. im looking to run decent boost in the future with ethanol. restrictors ? head drain? n1 oil pump be reliable for the streets as im not gonna be pushing the rev limit. compression ratios should I look at with a good combo head gasket ? any info will help cheers?
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Hi guys , just wonder if there is any one who has a spare valve body for a C34 S2 triptronic box in Melbourne , as MV auto`s want $400 deposit plus the price of the body which is way over the top. I only need it until I get the change over unit back from Adelaide. thanks.
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Built 2.6L There are a few thread around regarding built engines. Most threads i found are a few years old. Are people making decent power on built 2.6s or is everyone just going 3L now? i would prefer to stay 2.6, my thought process is build a 2.6 with great parts instead of an average 3L. also the 2.6 is an easier in out job as opposed to 3L. whats the verdict? what is everyone doing these days?
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Hi, I started a thread not long ago about misfiring under medium to heavy acceleration. Poking around I had really odd results testing the resistance on the coil pack ignitor. It lead me to believe the ignitor was faulty; replaced this and the problem didn't go away. I'm still curious what the resistance of other ignitors are... when I get a multimeter I'll test the re-furb unit too. In short, here is what i did: Replaced the ignitor - same. Dropped in a set of BCPR6ES-11 - same Dropped in a set of BCPR6ES - better but still same same Checked for un-metered air. Found K&N oil from the panel in the air box. Replaced with paper filter, cleaned AFMs with CRC AFM cleaner - marginally better with the BCPR6ES in there. Inspected the coil packs. No cracking. Did some reading about coil packs and had a penny drop moment. Basically, two things: The coils packs, as in the induction coils in the unit itself generally work, or don't. Rule of thumb, there are examples of them failing but not for this post. So, in my case the coil pack fires, and it works. It's the plastics around the pack that break down. Sometimes visibly, other times not. Stumbled onto a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qirx_G4x5i0 Guy with an Aussie accent. I'd be shocked if he isn't on SAU. If you are out there and read this, chime in and take credit. Bought a second hand set of coil packs, some contact cleaner and 2x 7g tubes of dielectric grease. Pulled the coil packs out and apart, sprayed everything with contact cleaner. Then a generous ring of dielectric grease around where the pack flanges out and also underneath the flange. Put the clean springs back in, slid the plastic part nozzle on with another run of dielectric grease around the base. To be sure. Could have been done easily with one tube but being super generous and ended up using a tiny part of the second tube. On the first drive, oh my! How different the car feels. Smoother acceleration, less backfiring from the exhaust, better (smoother?) engine sound and no misfiring. Looking at the old coil packs. See the below pictures. The rim has oxidized, the springs are dirty (pics don't show it) and inside the coil are black marks... If the OEM coils are as good as anything aftermarket, I'd spend the $30 on parts and in an hour it'll be like new. A run of dielectric grease is on my maintenance list whenever I do plugs. HTH someone else.
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rb26 rebuilt engine with exceptional attention to detail Hi, I've had my r33 rb26 engine totally rebuilt including head. Unlike many rebuilds, nothing has remained untouched and all screws, metal parts, springs have been cleaned, polished, electrocoated. Some components have been sandblasted and painted or powder coated. All machining work performed by orger who worked on the r32s that ran in the v8 championships. New end spring plastic brackets were machined for throttle bodies. The motor has not been started and sits in a RWD 300zx. The project has blown out and while in no rush, I'm considering selling and SEEKING EXPRESSIONS OF INTEREST. Engine owes me over 30k, so will say asking for 30 and open to reasonable offers. Located near chadstone in VIC. Please no low ballers as you will be ignored :-( Engine details; Ferrea OS Valve set rb26 ferrea double valve spring set rb26 ARP head studs RB26 Camtech camshafts - 274 degree with 9.35mm lift OEM Timing Belt Timing Belt Tensioner (both) 2 x RPM Adjustable Camshaft Pulley Nitto I-beam conrods Nitto Oil Pump headgasket nitto drag series nitto intake & exhaust gasket ITB block water fitting exhaust studs x 10 3x water hoses Davies craig EWP alloy JE Pistons & Rings Main studs ARP Head studs ARP Main bearing set piston ceramic coating Misc Acid clean block welsh plugs crack test block crack test crankshaft remove crankshaft oil gallery plugs clean & linish crankshaft Modify oil galleries for NPT plugs Strainer plate line hone conrod alignment conrod size check check s/e clearance check bearing clearance Mock Assemble squish areas in chambers dismantle final clean & re assemble check compression 8.5 - 1 block surface balance full engine check and dispatch NO SUMP. Accessories; BPP fuel rail is twin entry 14mm rail 6 x Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors adaptors filters seals plugs (Flow Matched) Heat treated manifold Precision 6466 and 46mm dual gates plumbed back into dump -
R32 GTR air con compressor rebuild? G'day, looking for recommendations for an air con rebuild for an R32 GTR. Asked for a leak test before finally getting a regas, turns out it's leaking from the compressor. The shop says it won't touch imports though because the parts are going to be hard to find. Now I'm looking for a place to help me out. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
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Hi, just wondering if anyone could give me a ballpark figure on how much a stock rebuild would cost for a RB25DET? looking into buying one I found with a spun bearing for cheap...also, how much more would it cost to go forged instead? cheers
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Heya, my dad gave me my r32 recently. I'm wondering what year it is? And also how much it would be registered/unregistered (running). Manual, turbo, brand new tyres. She drives beautifully but does need to work done now ? Thank you☺️
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Must have a GTR Hey guys, Sam from Melbourne here have always loved skyline gtr's from when I was a kid. Never owned one for some reason, as I had plenty of opportunities to buy. I currently own a 2016 mustang GT. I have decided to sell to pursue a skyline gtr build. Hoping to get some research done to see which way I should go. Really looking forward to it.....
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CA18DET Rebuild or engine swap? Hi All, Recently my current CA18DET just blew up (cracked piston rings) and overheated. Ive got a spare engine lying around with unconfirmed kms (obtained from a previous purchase). My question is what would be the best path for just getting the car going again (and reliably). Should I refurbish the engine back to OEM? or just bolt her up with a new head gasket? Also, if anyone knows who is decent with CA's in Brissy, let me know. Cheers
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Indestructible 26 drift pig Hey recently purchased a 180 with a 26 converted to rear wheel it's running 85 and has most of the good bits the kiddies go cray cray for but for some reason they left the internals alone and after some practice Iam hearing horrible knocking from bottom end it has the n1 oil pump and for some reason a r33 crank any tips on creating a stable build built for hi revs?
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Hi all, I've got my blown RB25DET Neo stock bottom end for sale: Cylinders 3, 5 and 6 have lost compression and it appears that the rings are fused, however still rotates Two of the bores (5 and 6) are scratched deep enough to feel when you run your finger over the bore, there are less severe scratches on other cylinders too When the engine went it first started pushing a lot of coolant and finally went up heaps in crank case pressure and started blowing oil and smoke from the breathers There are some burn marks near the water galleries on the recently changed head gasket (Oct 2016, included with the engine) but we're not sure if these were there before, during or after the bottom end went I am not 100% certain of the root cause of the engine failure and there may be other damage to the block besides the bores This engine is off my 1998 R34 GTT sedan and was at 156,565km when pulled out, with the last 30,000 kms at around 275rwkw. The car was still movable when the engine was pulled but ran quite rough. Please let me know if you need any other information. The engine is currently at my mechanic in Melbourne south east, pick up only. What's included: Engine block, rotating assembly, head gasket, couple of other random gaskets. Possibly sump and oil pickup. I will keep the water pump. Asking $150 but open to offers. Note I will need buyer's driver license number for the receipt. Absolutely no warranty other than this might make a very awkward coffee table Thanks guys -
Hey fellas, hope you're all well so here we go I need help I rebuilt my R33 series 2 GTS-T from the ground up. The rebuilt motor is having trouble starting and idling. Rebuilt RB25DET series 2 Car kicks over then cuts out straight away, like its starved of fuel. Then when you try start it again it gets really compressiony doesn't want to start. Leave it for a min and it will, but with horrible misfire, eventually sorts itself out but not fully, hunts for a bit. Doesn't sound like it's running on 6 cylinders. Head got rebuilt, had no issues with old one, piston rings were finished so I had to rebuild it Compression ratings at 140 across all 6 Seems to be over-fueling but it's always run rich. I've checked the: Coil pack loom, tested fine Fuel pressure fine Oil pressures good Spark is fine Timing is spot on New - Walbro fuel pump - Saads fuel reg - Iridium spark plugs - AFM - K&N Oil Filter - Gates timing belt - Nissan water pump - Nissan thermostat Old (off the motor before rebuild, but were working when dismantled) - GCG high flowed turbo - GCG FMIC - Injectors and rail (standard series 2) - ECU (standard series 2) - Intake manifold (inc AAC) - Exhaust manifold - Exhaust - BOV - Alloy Radiator - Cam shafts - After market boost controller - CAS - Pod filter - Splitfire coilpacks (haven't travelled more than 3000km) Any suggestions for me to test? I'm trying to organise a new CAS to test. We were test driving the car all week in our workshop carpark after we installed the new reg and it was running really well, but was doing this same thing over a week ago. Kinda reverted to doing the same thing again unfortunately. Id appreciate any help with it, it's so close but so far omg Thanks for reading Marni
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Hi guys, I am looking at rebuilding my R33 GTS-T gearbox. There must be someone here who has done it or at least a good write up because of how popular skylines are. I have found the factory manual for the r32 gtr by searching on these forums, from reading there are people who say its nearly impossible without the right pullers and others who say its simple. I have a 50 ton press at work and some simple snap on bearing pullers. Does anyone know where you can buy the synchros, bearings, shift forks and whatever else may be necessary to take out this rebuild? My local nissan dealerships are impossible to deal with, don't even know what synchros are and a technician I spoke to who found the parts by looking up the VIN said be looking at a 2-3 month wait and the prices were through the roof ($1100 +GST for bearings, synchros and a spacer!). Local shops quote me $1800 + parts too, very costly. Second hand box not an option as by this age would be in similar condition. Thank you.
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Rebuilt RB25DET Lets skip to the juicy bit, this is my head after max 2km of testing, not running well before, thought valves may be the issue but they seem ok. Comp is at 140 (I know it's low) this is the intake side, no soot anywhere else, just in this one spot what the fk could've caused it? thanks Marni
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Picked this up on the weekend for the track car, apparently approx 150ks and removed as a "runner", toying with the idea of attempting the rebuild myself - which I've never done but always really wanted to try. I've got a basic workshop, most tools, have done turbo/head/manfiold swaps and have over a decade experience with Nissan platforms etc etc so I have half an idea. Standard rods don't like going past 220 or so rwkw apparently and as my current motor is an original bottom end with some basic bolt ons I wanted something fresh anyway. Parts list will look something like this. Spool forged kit which has rods, bearings, pistons, rings, pins, metal head gasket etc. Headstuds New gaskets and hoses throughout. New oil and water pumps, timing belt, idler tensioner. Some tomei 256 cams I have sitting in a box brand new. Either new OEM or basic upgrade valve springs and some new lifters (lifters needed?) New balancer. Mild porting/port matching, nothing crazy, remove butterflies and possibly relocate injector ports. A GTX2860R I have sitting here which is new, could swap for 63 or 67? A little Tiual 38mm external gate. E85 Use my existing Nistune. Re-use existing oil cooler/intercooler/radiator fuel setup etc. I would want the basic bottom end balancing done, but once the initial weigh/measure/balance is done and you install the rotating assembly can you/should you then have it balanced as a short block? I've seen people do this with clutch attached also which seems odd, given the clutch could die tomorrow and be different. Same for the head, the guy I would have do some porting could likely do the valves/springs and clearances while he's there. leaving me cams/fit head to block which I'm OK with. With the 2860, I can't see it making more than 230-240rwkw, which is fine given I have no big plans for new gearsets or box swaps. 63 and 67 would go a little further but run the risk of hurting the box sooner - Box which is just a stocker with a nice clutch and fluid and no present issues. The alternative is I break the motor down, get all the parts, then deliver it all ready for assembly to my mechanic and collect assembled short block, an assembly head from the head guy, and do the final assembly and swap myself. I know it's not a "simple" task, but for those who have DIY'd a rebuild, would you do it again? What caught you out, anything else to throw in?
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I'm building an SR20, DM is one of the places I've talked to and as his focus is on circuit racing engines, rather than street/drag like a lot of other workshops I am interested in potentially using him to do the bottom end rather than doing it myself with a friend who's an engine builder by trade, but not experienced with SRs. He's mentioned he has Nismo internal testing data from the Super GT cars, and as he has one of them (an S15) and appears to be in the high end circuit space it all seems to check out. As it's not a cheap decision and I'm not local to him I was hoping to hear from anyone who's had experience with him. https://www.facebook.com/dmmsydney/
