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Showing results for tags 'replacement'.
Found 14 results
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Hey guys, Photos below: Got this car from the auctions, grey import, has skyline printed all over but rego doesn't specify model, it's listed only as 2002 Nissan sedan so I'm not sure what model I should be looking at for parts etc. It's obviously been modified by previous owner, suspension has been lowered, possibly chopped, don't know for sure. Local mechanic sent me this photo after I took it in for a service and told me the front suspension (mainly bushes) are destroyed, and the steering column is about to fall off... He's said it'll take 6 weeks to source bushes/bushings for repair from Nissan, but doesn't seem sure about what parts will suit... Any advice on what model's parts will be compatible and where to source them? Possibly quicker/cheaper? Or a recommendation for a more specialised mechanic? Any help would be much appreciated, I'm at a loss! Thanks
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Hi members Happy New Year My skyline has no power. It's a straight line 6 cylinders non turbo engine. The first 5 cylinders have low compression. The fifth one is just 10 psi. The sixth one is ok. No slippage of the timing belt. I have removed all necessary bolts to remove the head except 3 allen type bolts on the engine head. The allen bolt heads seem rusted as these bolts are out of the rocker area in between the two cams and not exposed to the engine oil. They are very stubborn and one of them got stripped out. I request the members to guide me to undo the bolts. Will using the extractor method work? If no, can I weld a nut to the bolt to ease the job? Please answer.
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M35 Drivers Side Window Motor - Replacement
swanny180 posted a topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Hi guys, Looks like my window motor is cooked on the drivers side of my M35 Stagea. After a couple of things: 1 - Does anyone have the part number? 2 - Does anyone have a new or second hand one they are looking to sell? Cheers -
G'day everyone, bit of a n00b question, but I've searched for a while to find and answer over to pages/forum, with no luck. Has anyone had to / have a rough price estimation for what I'd be up for to get my 1989 R31's Windscreen replaced? The thing's cracked all the way through and absolutely dreadful, no solution but to go the whole hog and get a new one. Cheers in advance!
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A couple months ago I noticed my r33 gtst hicas ball joints were flogged but neglected the issue. I recently had a full wheel alignment done and the rear end is still snaking under acceleration and deceleration, so i decided I'd better have a closer look at the problem. As expected the balljoint are creating play and they need to be replaced asap. I've had a solid look on the net for the best upgrade without buying a whole hicas lockout system and not much luck. I have a lock bar already and i dont want to tamper with the aligment since i just paid for one. Does anyone know where i can get solid bushes to replace the worn ball joints or what the best upgrade would be. this is the only option i have found so far - http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=843. I've herd rubber(non solid bushes) would create unwanted play... -
I got sick of my oil pressure reading very low when warm (0 to .5 on the factory guage) so i decided to replace the sensor. You will need an open ended 17 mm spanner and you will need to undo a hose clamp (mine was a small socket to undo) this side of the engine bay. undo the bottom fuel line hose clamp and slide it off (it is the return line so there is no pressure in this line but some fuel will dribble out so be careful) this is the fuel pressure sensor about 20 cm below the fuel line hopefully you can see it in focus down there with a rubber gromet over the plug on the left hand end of it. this is what the plug looks like with the grommet pulled back. fairly easy to remove. you need to get a 17mm open ended spanner on the sensor to undo it. this is the new sensor i bought off ebay from nissan of chesapeake in usa. it cost me $95 delivered here. and this is the end result. a good oil pressure reading in the cluster guage. may not be highly accurate but it would certainly be able to warn you of a problem before it does too much damage.
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Hey Peeps Thought I would do a write up as it seems there isn't one anywhere else and the 350Z or G35/V35 isn't the same.......... these colour codes were taken from a double din radio - non bose type. 12V Constant - Yellow/Pink. 12V Switched (Ignition) - Light Green/Pink. Ground - Red/Blue. Head Light Signal / Dimmer - Green/White. Front Left Speaker: White & Black. (do not know polarity) Front Right Speaker: Red & Green. (do not know polarity) Rear Left Speaker: Yellow & Brown. (do not know polarity) Rear Right Speaker: Pink & Blue. (do not know polarity) There were 5 colours left over but I did not bother finding out what they were. Cheers, Theo. -
looking for some advice. Recently blew both sides of my stock r33 turbo (ceramic dump side, nylon compressor), which destroyed my engine etc etc now my life is ruined.. Anyway time to rebuild on a budget, have managed to find everything i need for an affordable price but this would mean the turbo that would go in would be the same thing that blew up on only 10psi with pretty much standard everything. note: replacement stock turbo is in perfect order but has 130,000 kms on it.. How do i either make this turbo more reliable, or can anyone suggest a replacement turbo that would be more reliable, something of simular size as i cant really afford a retune at the moment. preferably the cheapest and most reliable option (yes i know that doesnt really exist) cheers
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M35 DIY turbo replacement Hi all, Apologies for creating a new thread but I can't for the life of me find any DIY threads for replacing a blown turbo on the VQ25. Funnily enough the threads I have found refer OP to the search function. I understand a few owners have had to go through this heartache but has anyone documented it for use on this forum? Keen to grab an M35 and want to research turbo replacement as it's going to need it sometime down the track but sale depends mostly on ease of replacing this critical part.
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M35 Condenser Replacement My condenser has a massive hole in it. How simple is it to replace? I've obtained a V35 condenser (hope it's the same, will let you guys know) Looks like a pain in the ass - Not sure if I need to pull the radiator out and remove it backwards or what Anyone able to point me in the right direction?
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NM35 VQ25DET Camshaft Rattle Post Senor Replacement Hi All Just replaced the 2 camshaft position sensors on my old mans NM35 Stage (VQ25DET) and now the car is getting a rattle at circa 2000RPM from what appears to be the camshafts. I have read that this can be caused by using oil that is too thin, or the spring return within the variable cam timing assembly failing. Prior to going down the path of the variable cam timing assembly, we will be trying an oil change but was also curious if maybe the replacement of the camshaft sensors requires a camshaft re-learn procedure and is there anyway to do this without a Consult 3? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. -
I've had a weakened door lock actuator for a while in my R34 sedan, meaning that one of the doors had to be locked manually each time, not ideal. I managed to chase down the replacement part from the wreckers and finally got around to replacing it. This is not a full DIY but here's the general outline, mostly as a note to self for next time: For instructions on how to remove the inside door panel go here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285604-tutorial-r34-gtt-door-panel-removal-guide/ . That guide is for a coupe but sedan front door is very similar. Note to disconnect the window switch plug, push in the clip on the underside of it Remove plastic lining inside the door. Take care with the gooey black glue, it spreads easily and sticks everywhere. Remove rectangular metal brace from the door (4 screws) to give better access to the inside of the door end. Remove the bottom screw of the window slide/guide and jiggle it out of the door. There are a lot of mechanical arms (thick wire looking things) going everywhere, they are the fun part of this puzzle. Most of them disconnect the same way: At each end, rotate the plastic clip thing to the side first to release it, then pull the end of the arm out of the hole. Remember there are two ends to each arm – only disconnect the easier end, not both. The door lock/actuator assembly is held in place by the three large screws at the edge of the door where the latch is. To get the assembly out you'll need to rotate is slightly to get it out of the O-loop in the door lock arm coming down from the top. I'm pretty sure there's a wiring connector for actuator but I got over excited with wire cutters so oh well. Once you've got the assembly out you can replace the actuator only, or the whole assembly, depending on what you have. To re-assemble, follow the steps in reverse. Make sure you put every single arm back the same way. Test everything before you put the door panel back on: door handle and locking mechanism inside and out, central locking on/off, window up/down. Note that for the window to work you'll have to reconnect the window switch plug. It took me a while to work out that the window slide/guide needed to come out of the way first. Generally it's an easy job, just fiddly.
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Does anybody have a full set of replacement rubbers for a 32 gtr they'd be willing to sell for a future respray, atm looking for all genuine, or if anyone has any leads on someone with a full set ect let me know. Cheers, Alex.
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Hi just a quick one , i know this has probably been answered before but without searching through the hay-stack im looking to change my stock turbos over , im currently sitting on about 270kws and cant see myself modifying in the near future- past 300 still wanting response Any suggestions should i stick -5s or something a bit bigger . Cheers
