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I've umm'd and ahh'd about posting this. Was going to post a review to Google and FB but I'm so over drama, whilst still wanting to vent a little I thought here might be OK. I’d like to share my experience with Keilor Park SSV (Street Sound Vision). This is a bit of a long read, so please scroll to the end for a shortened dot-point summary if you want to just get the gist of it. I've changed the names of the employees so as not to get too personal. This is more of an exercise in getting something off my chest and just sharing the value of checking reviews before entrusting anyone with your prized possessions. In mid-November last year I contacted Street Sound Vision to enquire about fitting an alarm system with GPS tracking etc. to my '94 R32 GTR. After speaking with the store manager "Bob", I felt comfortable to go in and discuss the alarm and feature add-ons as well as picking a new head unit to replace my old one. I brought in my car so he could have a look and give me a quote. We booked in for the 21st of December and I was advised this would be an easy one-day job. On the 21st, I dropped off my car in the morning and returned home. Later that afternoon, I received a phone call from Bob explaining that the car was ready, however I will need to go through a process every time I turn off the car if I wanted the Remote Start function to operate. This included some kind of button-press sequence before turning off the car and locking it. I thought this was strange and prodded a little further, explaining that I just want to operate my car normally and don’t want to have to go through a ‘sequence’ every time. He advised that for this, they’d need to re-wire the remote-start function to the neutral switch of the gearbox, which to my understanding was the correct way it should have been done initially. He said they’d need it over-night to finish in the morning. Fine. The next day I received a call at around 1pm to come and pick up the car. Upon arrival, I was shown the standard features of the alarm; arm, disarm, remote start/stop etc. which all worked perfectly. The new head unit worked and the Bluetooth microphone tucked up over the rear-view mirror neatly, I was satisfied and so went inside to pay the invoice, thank the guys and leave. When I jumped in my car to leave and put the key into the ignition barrel, the car did not respond. No cranking, nothing. I tried the remote start function and that worked, but the car wouldn’t crank with the key. I got out and called one of the guys (the one that actually did the install) out to have a look and his first words were, “It’s an old barrel and must be broken”, as if it was just a coincidence. Of course, I didn’t appreciate that and he agreed to take it back around to the workshop to take a look. I waited for over an hour in the showroom before asking one of the other guys to go and see what’s going on, he came back saying they’re having a look and will advise shortly. About half an hour later I was called to the back and they showed me the whole driver side under-dash wiring pulled out, explaining they don’t know what the issue is exactly but they’ve narrowed it down to the ignition barrel harness. Again, blaming the age of the car, brittle wires and possibly even the old turbo-timer. Apparently, we had to source a new harness from somewhere or repair the current one. I stated that there was never any issue prior to bringing the car to them, and that they need to sort it out. At this stage I was pretty frustrated and they said they’ll need it another night, that they’d look at it again in the morning and advise what can be done. The next day, I received a call at around 2.30pm advising that they know what the issue is, it’s been rectified and I could come over at 5pm to pick it up after they’ve tested it thoroughly. I arrived at 5pm, and something didn’t feel right as I approached the counter with 3 or 4 guys standing there. Bob said “Mate, we had a bit of an issue, but it’s all fine, your car is working perfectly now.” I asked what the issue was and he said that they had broken my key, but “not to worry because 'Doogle' had a spare GTR key and we got that re-cut for you.” As I stood there, dumbfounded and trying to stay composed, Bob explained, “I don’t know how it happened, it just broke one time as we inserted it into the barrel." Doogle then chirped in with “yours was a cheap eBay-spec Chinese knockoff anyway”, adding insult to injury. It's not a knock-off by the way. After explaining that Bob had fully rewired my ignition harness and it was now all perfect, I put aside my disappointment of my broken original key with the embossed logo (different to the raised lettering of the replacement which was either R33 or possibly fake itself), took his word that the car was fine and decided to just take my car and go home. It was Christmas after all and I couldn’t be bothered fighting over the key. I got in my car, put the key in the barrel and immediately noticed it was very tight. Turning the barrel required a lot of effort and my broken key suddenly had an explanation. Bob did mention the new key was “a little tight” and needed some wearing in, but this was ridiculous. I turned the key all the way to the barrel bump-stop and there was a 1-2 second delay before the engine tried to crank and failed. Normally the engine begins to crank before you even get to the end of the barrel. I backed off and tried again. Same thing, it would crank once and stop. So I held the key in that position and went through this sequence a few times until it finally turned on. See below video. IMG_5655.MOV Then my 4WD light came on indicating a fault/failure (they did splice into the ECU and the 4WD computer is connected to that so they may have damaged that connection). I turned off the car and went back inside and called Bob out who at this stage was speechless and swore black and blue that it had been fully tested. They were dumbfounded as to the 4WD failure and then Doogle once again thought it’d be a good time to try and explain to me that “as it’s an old car, the light might be faulting but as long as the 4wd gauge was moving under acceleration it would be fine,” as if I was some idiot that doesn't understand what I'm driving. It wasn’t working anyway. The next day was Christmas eve, it was currently 6pm and I couldn’t stay so I said I’m taking the car and will be back after Christmas. On the way home, I realised my climate control was also not working. No lights, nothing. Totally dead. When I got home and parked the car, I tested the Remote Start function and that did not work either. I tried the other remote and that didn’t even operate what-so-ever. To try and explain the disappointment would be impossible. The fact that they'd twice tried to pass the car off as "finished"??? Seriously... Summary of faults: 1. My key was broken and called a fake. 2. Car would hesitate before attempting to crank multiple times, sometimes unsuccessfully. 3. Ignition barrel extremely tight and difficult to turn. 4. 4WD light on and no 4WD operation. 5. Remote Start function not working. 6. Second remote not working 7. Climate control dead. On the 04/01/21 – I called and spoke to Bob and calmly aired my frustration. He told me they can’t see me until the 25th of January, which I rejected and said in that case I want a full refund so I can take it somewhere else to get fixed. He then agreed to take it in on Thursday the 7th to asses and advise. I felt stuck between a rock and a hard place as I had already paid them. If I hadn't yet paid, they would never see me again, but I had to try and keep things civil with them so they could fix the car. On Thursday I took the car and we agreed he’d keep it, look into the issues and try to rectify. Later that day he called me saying it was being worked on and the next day I received a call saying everything except for the 4WD had been rectified. Alarm had been removed and re-fit, turbo timer removed (previously discussed and agreed) as it was interfering with the ignition/remote start voltage. Car is good now except for my 4WD still not working. When I bought the car, the Attesa was not patched to the Haltech ECU. This was fixed, but is now mysteriously not working again. Bob said he’d checked the wiring and it all looked fine so wasn’t sure why it wasn’t working. As I had by now lost all faith in SSV, I did not pursue this matter and decided I will take it to someone that is familiar with the Attesa system. Whilst I appreciated Bob finally coming through and sorting out some of the issues, the overall experience with SSV was shambolic and, not only do I not recommend them, I strongly urge anyone considering their service to look elsewhere. The stress and worry I felt especially over Christmas and the New Year seems childish in hindsight, but this car does make me feel like a kid again, so I guess it just comes with the territory. I accept blame on my part for not looking into their reviews online before booking the car and taking it in to them. Since this experience, I've spoken to many people who've had similar or worse experiences with this store, and even their other stores. Very uncharacteristic of me to just trust a ‘big’ name in the industry without doing my own research. Lesson learned, let it be yours too. I'm not taking it any further with them but that's the last time I step foot there, and will be advising everyone I know not to use them if they need any audio/security etc in their pride and joy. Thanks for reading and again, sorry for the long burn. Short summary under the pic of my car. Short Version: • 21/12/20 – Drop car off to purchase and fit alarm system and head unit. Was advised later in the arvo that certain procedures need to be completed before ignition-off to activate Remote Start, but a way around was to re-fit to gearbox neutral switch. • 22/12/20 – “car is ready”: On pick-up, was shown features of the alarm and headunit, all seemed fine, paid and went to leave. Car would not start with key. Waited 2 hours while diagnosing. Blamed age of car. Left the car with them again. • 23/12/20 – “car is ready”: On arrival: My key was broken and called a fake. Car would hesitate before attempting to crank multiple times, sometimes unsuccessfully. Ignition barrel extremely tight and difficult to turn. 4WD light on and no 4WD operation. Remote Start function not working. Second remote not working Climate control dead. • Advised they can’t do anything about it until the new year. • 04/01/21 – called and spoke to Bob and calmly aired my frustration. He told me they can’t see me until the 25th of January, which I rejected and said in that case I want a full refund so I can take it somewhere else to fix. He then agreed to take it in on Thursday the 7th to asses and advise. • 07/01/21 – took the car and agreed he’d keep it, look into the issues and try to rectify. Later that day he called me saying it was being worked on. • The next day I received a call saying everything except for the 4WD had been rectified. Alarm had been removed and re-fit, turbo timer removed as it was interfering with the ignition/remote start voltage. • Car is good now except for my 4WD now not working. When I bought the car, the Attesa was not patched to the Haltech ECU. This was fixed, but is now mysteriously not working again. Will need an auto-elec.

hi all Has anyone ever had work done at Paul Pavlou Motors in Thebarton? http://www.paulpavloumotors.com.au/ Now, i have seen some of the work coming out of there which as far as i know is top notch, allot of high end cars like old school muscle, race cars such as drag cars and gt40s ect and high end work and retunes on new v8s and HSV ect with in house dyno tuning. luckelly for me there close to work. now, i have seen a few high end imports go through there too such as 34 GTRs and other gear, expensive looking gear. oddly i cant find them referenced on this forum or almost any other from google searching ect. im expecting them to be expensive but thats just my guess, anyone know there workmanship, are they experienced with an RB26 and tuning jap gear? let me know if you have used there services and if you would recommend them over the well known SA tuning joints. thanks for your time.

Cygnett Magnetic Vent Mount 5 / 5 stars After having a less than optimal experience with the Cygnett MagMount 360 I was given a Magnetic Vent Mount by Cygnett to try. TL;DR - This is a brilliant phone mount. Go and buy one. I have tried cheap vent mounts before and they barely hold on to the vent before you even attach your phone. I was nervous that this would be similar. I was very wrong. In fact, my first go at attaching the base to the vent caught me out; I thought I'd don't something wrong because it was so firm. It has no lateral movement at all. The mount base has a little button that pries the spring-loaded clamp apart so you can put it on and off. The best part about this is that you can very easily take it with you and it will mount just as securely to any car you get in. NOTE some cars do have different gaps between their vent shutters. Our Passat has very little gap between the shutters and so I made sure I could put it on there. I could, perfectly. It was also mounted to the Bora and a Mazda 3 with no issues at all. You will likely lose the ability to move the vent shutters on the vent being used. This is the same across any vent mounts and not a Cygnett problem. If you need the vents pointing at you when driving you may wish to rethink a vent mount. The mount comes with some sticky magnets for the back of your phone or phone case. You can also slide a larger magnet in between your phone and its case, which also works well (this is what we've done on my wife's phone). I did find that my Samsun wireless charging either doesn't work at all or gets dangerously hot when using these stick-on magnet pads. I've had to cease using it until I find an answer - this is not a Cygnett problem, this is a problem with all magnet based mounts. Driving with the mount is fine. At no stage does my phone (Galaxy S6) or my wifes phone (HTC One) look unstable or like they will fall. They are secure while driving and firm enough to change tracks or re-centre Google if needed. This is my new favourite mount. Well done Cygnett.

Review: Alpha Omega Racing Evo 350mm Brembo Rear Brake Adapter Kit - WTAC Edition Hey all, decided to put a review together for the Alpha Omega Racing Evo 350mm Brembo rear brake kit (WTAC edition). This is a new version of the rear adaptor kit developed by Alpha Omega Racing, designed with the intention to meet World Time Attack Challenge clubsprint rules. I have been running the original rear kit for the last 6 months (?? maybe longer lol) so this review will be more so related to the comparison when installing. Company/Product: Alpha Omega Racing / Evo 350mm Brembo Rear Brake Adaptor Kit - WTAC Edition Price: $400 plus postage Link: http://alphaomegaracing.com/p/149/c/72/Z32/ALPHA-OMEGA/Evo-350mm-Brembo-Rear-Brake-Adapter-Kit-WTAC-Edition.html Purpose: This kit allows you to fit rear Brembo calipers from an Evo 5-9 (all the same) with Nissan 370Z rear rotors (350mm diameter) to your R32/R33/R34/S13 (5 stud)/S14/S15/Z32/Z33. What's included: - Left and right adapters made out of one piece of 7075-T6 billet aerospace alloy - Various high tensile bolts and high tensile washers - Full installation instructions with pictures What else you'll need: - Mitsubishi Evo 5/6/7/8/9 Brembo rear calipers and brake pads - Nissan 370Z rear rotors (350mmx20mm) - Custom brake lines Alpha Omega Racing is able to provide all of the above parts as well as parts and services (labour) for rebuilding calipers and even fitting if you are not comfortable doing so yourself. I personally opted to get the parts from Alpha Omega Racing for the rear kit for the convenience factor at the time. The kit makes use of the Nissan 370Z rear 350mm rotors for better brake bias and heat dispersion. When using the front and rear kits designed by Alpha Omega Racing the brake bias is calculated to be a ratio of 69:31. I have chosen to continue running Intima Performance Brake Pads and am using their Type SR pads in this application. Test vehicle: 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GTT - originally factory rotors and calipers, then upgraded to the original rear kit designed by Alpha Omega Racing Unboxing the kit: The new WTAC edition kit arrived quickly and was well packaged. Much like their other adaptors, these new adaptors are very light as you'd expect being made from billet alloy and appear to be of good quality. Alpha Omega Racing is etched on one side, whilst 'Made in Australia' is etched on the other. All bolts and washers were included along with installation instructions. I already had all other parts required as I previously had the original rear kit installed and was changing purely to meet WTAC clubsprint rules. Installation: Installation was pretty straight forward. The most painful part was actually removing the old kit due to the use of the hub spacer. Once this was removed and the factory parts were all bolted back up, the adaptor kit bolted straight on without issue. Normally I would have been required to trim the dust shield/back plate, but I had already done this when installing the original kit. The calipers are required to be 'shaved' a little for fitment with this kit, my trusty angle grinder helped out here and made for easy work. The place that requires shaving has no effect on the performance of the caliper and is very minimal (see photo below). Once the calipers were sorted, I was able to put the rear rotors back on and bolt the calipers straight up! Fitment looks just as good as it did before with the original rear kit. Performance: In terms of performance, I have not had the car back on track after installing the WTAC edition rear kit. However having had the original rear kit on the car for some time now I feel performance will be similar. Will report back soon with an update though. The original rear kit created a much better braking bias for the car. ABS is disconnected in my car so took a little bit to get used to how hard I could jump on the brakes, but once I adjusted I was definitely impressed with the increase in braking ability. Will provide an update on this once I've had the car back on track (after WTAC). Overall Opinion: Overall I would say I'm very happy with the kit. The quality of the new kit matched that of the front kit and I found the install to be fairly easy. The flexibility to either source parts yourself of purchase from Alpha Omega Racing is great, if you have the time to source your own parts you might save a few dollars, but if you want to buy everything together it makes the process quicker, and you essentially have a ready to go kit. As mentioned, I will add some updates after WTAC, but if anyone has any questions regarding the kit, its install, or any other particulars, please feel free to ask me either in this thread or by sending me a PM. You can also read more into my car by checking out my build thread here:http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421419-timmys-r34-gtt/

Review Cygnett Magmount 360 I am extremely fussy when it comes to phone mounts. I don't want my phone mounted on the windshield, its either too far away or its in my line of sight, two things I hate. My previous phone mount is the Car Cup Mount by Belkin which is fantastic but my Mazda and Passat have the cup holders down next to the handbrake while my Bora has the cup holders above the stereo. Having to look down next to the handbrake to see Google Maps or change Spotify track is dangerous and when trying to navigate a new place, its a bit stressful. So, while the Belkin is perfect in my Bora I needed something new for the other cars. Enter the Cygnett Magmount 360. As you can see from the site and pictures, this is advertised as either a dash or glass mount. You stick the little chrome ball somewhere and then, using magnets, you stick your phone to it. The magnets are strong and you can either place a thin one inside your phone case or stick one, using double sided tape, to the back of your phone or phone case. In my scenario I stuck it to the back of the case because I didnt want the inside magnet to scratch the back of my phone. As soon as I did this, my wireless charging stopped working. Ok, so I can live with that even if it takes some getting used to (i naturally place my phone on the charging mat at work and dont even think about charging it, now I have to keep remembering to plug it in.) Then it came to mounting the little chrome ball. I was skeptical at first, I know how finicky dashboards are to stick things to (we've all stuck various guages down over the years, we all know how hard this can be.) But I was certain that a product advertised as a sticky dash mount had to work, right? Wrong. What a monumental failure. Nice clean dash, found one of the few flat spots, peeled off the cover and pushed it down for 4 minutes or so. As soon as I released my hand it just dropped off. Now the tape was ruined, so I got my hardcore mounting tape (used for various things around my fish tank, takes a prying screwdriver to remove). Same problem. Both the Mazda dash (hard smooth plastic piece) and Bora dash (softer pleather) refused to hold it. The fact is, the foot of the little ball is just so small that any weight will start to tilt it over. I simply cannot see how this would stick to ANY dash without the use of Super Glue or Sugru. The design is flawed. The little chrome ball is already quite weighty, its a solid metal ball. It can't even hold its own weight, I never even got the change to stick my phone to it as it already failed. If you were sticking this to glass, you may have better luck, but the contact patch is far too small to make it a solid fitting. All in all, a massive waste of $25 (on special at JB). I give this 1 star and strenuously recommend you consider alternatives.

Review: Mothers NuLens™ Headlight Renewal Kit European cars seem to struggle with maintaining high levels of headlight condition. While Japanese cars seem to suffer from fading/clouding, Euro's get pitting and a rough coating over them. We have 2 European cars and they've both fallen victim to this pitting and coating. I bought the Mothers NuLens™ Headlight Renewal Kit to try to clean up the headlights on my wife's 2007 Volkswagen Passat. Here's some pics of the headlight before I started. You can see just how bad the pitting and scratches are. So, the process is very simple; tape up your paintwork I put a hose on very low just dribbling over the headlight to keep it wet. Sand with the supplied 800 grit pad (you'll see in the below pics I needed to do this longer) When you have a uniform haze and it feels smooth, sand with the 1500 grit pad When the haze is uniform again, dry the light and Sand with the 3000 grit foam pad. Lastly, use the Powerball and polish to polish the headlight. So, after about 20 mins, the result is amazing. You can see that some scratches still exist, I can't feel these so I missed them on the 800 grit stage. I'm planning on redoing the sanding next week to see if I can improve it. But, even without doing that again, it looks (and feels) incredible. I would recommend this kit to anybody who has external defects on their headlights. (A lot of R33's get hazing/clouding on the inside of the headlight.) This is a 5 star product for sure. $40 very well spent.

R32 Nissan Skyline GTR: Exhaust Sounds of Blitz NÜR-Spec Catback - Free Rev & Acceleration Apologies for my terrible on-camera performance, we sort of rushed through this to get it made, ha ha. Anyways, I made a quick video on the exhaust sounds of a Blitz Nur-Spec catback on a mostly stock R32 GTR. Enjoy, lol.

Firstly the interior. The seat position was good, i felt like I could get myself into any comfortable position, either up against the wheel for track use or further back and lower for cruising. The seats were quite supportive and felt nice. The steering wheel was a good size and the paddles were well positioned. The screen in the middle looked nice and had quite a high resolution. The 4 rocker switches underneath were funny, they were for drive type (Normal, Sport+, Track, Wet/Snow), Steering type (Normal, Sport, Comfort), Traction Control Off and Hazard Lights.... I thought it was amusing that Hazard Lights were in with the drive/handling types, ie turn off TCS and you'll need the Hazards. The switches only rocked upwards and not downwards which irritated me. The cup holders in the centre had light up red rings in them. They were a bit off, not quite what you'd expect in there. I felt sorry for anybody that has to sit in the back of one of these when somebody my size is driving. The plastic that made up the door cards was ghastly! It was very much the kind of plastic you'd expect to find in a 1998 Camry. Absolutely horrible. In my opinion this plastic brought the whole interior down. On the way in or out of the car, you step of the 'Mustang' door sill that is illuminated red. Outside the car, the puddle light is a Mustang logo. Looks great but I fear it is probably lacking in the useful department and would love to see people trying to avoid puddles with it. I think the car looks awesome! I am not a staunch Mustang guy, I haven't liked almost all of the new models, they have looked underdone and plastic. This looks a smidge European but while retaining its muscle roots. The red is nicely aggressive also. The bonnet is seriously long and is constantly in your face when driving the car. I didn't get an opportunity to really open it up but I did give it a few healthy squirts around the city. The sound of this car is intoxicating. I wanted to keep accelerating hard so I could hear it again. I'm not usually a V8 kinda guy, but this is really a nice soundtrack. What I find is a pity is the choices of driving type. I spent time in mainly Normal/Comfort and Sport+, the issue is that in Normal, the car is sluggish and unresponsive and I had to mash my foot through the firewall to get it to do anything, while in Sport+ it was horrible on edge and would lurch all over the place if you just moved your foot past the happy peddle. The lack of a middle ground between these was super frustrating and made it really hard to drive around the city. In Sport+ when you mashed your foot, the rear would squat and it would take off really nicely with what I'd expect to be a smooth, gradual power curve. Brakes are nice and pulled the car up easily but as I said I didn't get the car out of the city to give it a good run, same goes for the suspension, it was definitely not too hard and firm but I was far from pushing this car hard enough to try them out. I think, for what it is its a great car and if we were in the US market and could get one for $30 - $40k it'd be a helluva option. But this car in Australia is $85,000 (as tested, $~63k in stock form)! Over $20k more than the GT350R available in the States (for $62k ish). This car has to compete with a lot of nice cars at that price and I just don't think it is worth it. Even a Commodore SS Redline is only $58k. I don't see how the Mustang would compete even at that price. For more pics, check out the gallery.

I have decided to put together a quick review of my brake upgrade as I’ve received quite a lot of interest and have received many questions regarding them. So here it is, a quick overview of the kit, parts I chose and why, issues I came across when installing, and my final thoughts after getting the car on the track. Company/Product: Alpha Omega Racing / Evo 350mm Brembo front brake adaptor kit Price: $370 plus postage Links: http://www.alphaomegaracing.com http://alphaomegaracing.com/p/50/c/73/Z33/ALPHA-OMEGA/Evo-350mm-Brembo-Brakes-Adapter-Kit-Version-2.html Purpose: The kit allows you to fit front Brembo calipers from an Evo 5-9 (all the same) with Evo X rotors (350mm) to your R32/R33/R34/S13 (5 stud)/S14/S15/Z32/Z33. What’s included: - Pair of CNC machined 7075 billet alloy caliper adaptors - High tensile bolts and washers - Installation instructions (with pictures) What else you need: - Mitsubishi Evo 5/6/7/8/9 Brembo front calipers and brake pads - Mitsubishi Evo X front rotors (350x32mm) - Custom brake lines Alpha Omega Racing is able to provide all of the above parts as well as parts and services (labour) for rebuilding calipers and even fitting if you are not comfortable doing so yourself. I personally opted to source the parts myself but the convenience factor is there of getting everything you need in one spot if preferred. The kit makes use of the Evo X 350mm rotors as opposed to the Evo 5/6/7/8/9 320mm rotors due to a couple of engineering issues, and of course better heat dispersion. Read more regarding the engineering issues on their page here: http://alphaomegaracing.com/i/9/Evo-Brembo-Brakes-On-A-Nissan-Adapter-Designs.html I personally purchased some calipers at a particularly cheap price which I found at the time, along with some Attkd 2 piece rotors. I also fitted these with some new Intima Type D pads. The car sees reasonably frequent track use so going for either RDA or DBA slotted rotors may be better suited for others. I had some custom brake lines made up at a local business which are required due to the Brembo calipers having banjo fittings. I had read in a couple of places that stock Evo lines would fit but it was found that they are too short and would pull on full lock. Test vehicle: 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GTT – upgraded from stock calipers with DBA4000 T3 slotted rotors Unboxing the kit: The adaptor kit arrived super quickly and was packaged as well as you would expect this kind of part to be. The adaptors are super light being made from billet alloy and appeared to be of very good quality. They have Alpha Omega Racing etched on one side and ‘Made in Australia’ etched on the other. The kit included all bolts required with washers and an instruction booklet. Installation: Install was easy with the only issue I came across being that one of the bolts from the adaptor kit to the hub is slightly interfered with by where the factory brake line bracket is bolted to the hub (I believe this is not on all vehicles that the kit is designed for). The issue is outlined in the instructions provided with the kit, something I would have realised and known about had I looked at them prior to beginning the install (but hey, who ever reads instructions lol). Quick fix with an angle grinder and they bolted straight up with perfect alignment. The bracket is a non-structural component and is purely a mounting point for the stock brake line so there was no issue with removing it. Initial impressions on the street: A quick ‘spirited’ drive of the car after fitment and I found the braking to have more bite, as you would expect with the larger contact area of the pads. The brake pedal had a tiny bit more travel in it due to retaining the stock brake master cylinder. Alpha Omega Racing do recommend upgrading to a BM57 master cylinder, which I did purchase elsewhere but this turned out to be a faulty unit so I refitted the stock unit in order to get the car driving. Impressions on the track: About two weeks after fitment I attended a Wakefield Park track day to test out the new setup. I was definitely impressed and it took some getting used to being able to brake later at the kink/turn 2 especially. On the day I was able to knock 1 second off my previous PB and felt that I was still adapting to how well the brakes could pull the car up. The pedal feel was softer then before but not bad, it had more travel which some would prefer. My next attendance at the track saw me cut another 0.7 seconds off my PB, meaning I had cut almost 2 seconds off my times previous to the brake upgrade. By this point I had gone from braking between the end of the wall and the kink with the stock setup to now braking after the kink. Overall opinion: The quality of the adaptor kit is top notch and the customer service provided by Wing at Alpha Omega Racing was great. The install/fitment was perfect and the only thing that could have improved on this would be for me to read the provided instructions as I already mentioned. The flexibility to purchase the other parts is great as it allows for the money conscience buyer to source their parts or use already owned parts, or for the track conscious people out there to upgrade the setup even more. For the time conscious person, everything can be purchased from Alpha Omega Racing making it a quick process to get everything needed. The upgrade over the standard setup is definitely noticeable in terms of braking ability and the larger discs help with heat distribution too. Retaining a stock rear brake setup (freshly machined rotors with Intima Type D pads) did mean the braking was notably more front bias, but the car did not feel greatly unsettled by this. Alpha Omega Racing is currently releasing a rear upgrade kit which will aide in returning a more balanced bias. The recommendation to upgrade to the larger brake master cylinder would also improve pedal feel however I do not feel is ‘necessary’ in my car. This would probably be a different story in a Silvia or R33 GTS-t which both have a smaller unit. The kit originally caught my eye because the Evo Brembo’s have larger pistons and more pad area, while being a cheaper option to the ‘factory GTR Brembo upgrade’. Suffice to say I am definitely happy with the upgrade and will be looking forward to getting my hands on the rear kit. If anyone has any questions regarding the kit, its install, or any particulars about the performance on track, please feel free to ask me either in this thread or by sending me a PM. You can also read more into my car by checking out my build thread here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421419-timmys-r34-gtt/