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Showing results for tags 'rich'.
Found 8 results
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Hey guys hope you don't mind first post being a question been asking on 31 club but haven't had a lot of replies. I've recently installed a series 1 25 into my 31. 109,000 kms on engine Redtop J pipe (no bov) 2.5 fmic way to big. standard dump, de-cat and 3" blast pipes. GFB boost controller set at 8 psi Bosch 040 pump As you can see it's stock. I have checked all the vacuum lines and swapped the j pipe because I thought the spring in the bov was gone and leaking. I've checked all silicone joiners. I have a boost gauge hooked up in the engine bay to help with diagnostics, no boost spiking or drop so I'd have to say it doesn't have a vacuum leak. I've changed the afm out with a couple others took a lot of the missing away but not completely. I've tried screwing the icv all the way in as well as unplugging it to see if that was the issue. I've tried adjusting the tps and put it back to where it originally was. Now when you start it it'll idle for a few seconds at 500 then raise and settle to a thousand rpm. Between 1000 and 2000 rpm it has a slight hesitation, car will drop revs below idle when you back off the throttle. Anything over 2000rpm when you back off throttle if you don't blip it the car will completely stall. Even if you're doing 5 grand in 4th... I'm really stuck here and getting a little bit over everything if I'm honest I'd just look to put some km's on it. If anyone has any ideas please let me know anything else to add to the list to check, and a few tips on how to check it would be amazing.
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Hey guys I recently bought my car and it was running rich, did a full service on it once i installed spark plugs and gapped them to 0.8 it kind of fixed the problem, but now I installed a fujitsubo exhaust with a 4" cannon tip cat back (ALL FUJITSUBO) to my stock cat and dump pipe and its running rich but im not sure because i could smell the car running rich before hand aswell, but now i think its a little more? and it backfires on gear changes. its got me very confused :S Mods include Turbosmart T boost controller set to 10PSI Hybrid FMIC Fujitsubo 3" catback with 4" tip greddy turbo timer HKS SSQV(ITHINK) BOV thanks guys -
r34 gtt rb25neo ok so i just finished installing tomei poncams 260deg 9.15mm lift bosch 040 fuel pump z32 afm bosch 750cc injectors power fc im using the standard fuel rail and plenum i started it up fine but she was puffin the black smoke so i assumed it was running way too rich. it now doesnt start prob flooded and spark plugs all carboned up. i have a power fc and have no clue how to just do a basic adjustment of the settings just so she idles and runs so i can get it out for a test drive and then on the trailer to get it tuned professionally. any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi All, So recently I've connected up an wideband O2 with narrowband simulation (Innovate MTX-L). I'm currently using the narrowband output from the wideband and connected to the factory ECU deleting the existing factory narrowband sensor. To my surprise, the motor isn't idling at stoich which is strange it averages around 12.7 A/F when warm. There are no vacuum leaks, no vented catch cans or anything as such, and I believe the coolant temp sensor is working because when it's disconnected the car won't start. No real biggie, as I will be getting a standalone soon enough, but just curious on why the factory ECU runs so damn rich on idle? On full song at 0.7bar it drops to 10.5 A/F which is expected of a stock ECU. This is the first time I've put a wideband to analyse A/F on a factory ECU, so I'm curious to see if that's correct? I always thought it should be idling on stoich, and even on light throttle/cruise the A/Fs are averaging at 13.3. I might try cleaning the AFM this weekend and see if that makes any difference (I highly doubt it). Any other ideas?
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Hey guys, Iv had my 1998 nissan skyline for about 2 months now and iv been trying to figure out why its running so rich Im getting 200ks A TANK!!!!. It blows black smoke and smells like fuel Iv changed the o2 sensor, spark plugs, maf sensor When the car is off and the engine is warm the car stuggles to turn back on... it turns on but then i have to tap the accelerator to keep it on When im driving and coming to a stop i clutch in and slow down and the rpms drop below 1000 and sometimes even stalls When im speeding up and boost starts to build the car starts stuttering sounds like antilag tbh and i loose power I dont know what it can be and would appreciate any help Thank you -
Hi All, New to SAU. Excuse my limited knowledge for future reference. I recently purchased a N/A r33 S1.5 (s2 management) with intentions to go down the forced induction path. I purchased a Rb25det s1 engine,loom and ecu. I installed the engine trouble free but had a few electrical bugs, using the s1 management I can not get injector or coil pulse. I've tried multiple CAS with no luck and have narrowed it down to no power to the Ecu. I then tried using the N/A s2 ecu,loom and plenum with all n/a sensors. (Of course changing coil packs,tps and afm) The car started and idled fine but run like shit on boost. I changed to a S2t ecu,fuel pump and adjustable FPR The car run what I thought was perfect. After a small drive I've found it runs VERY rich @ idle and VERY lean on boost >4000rpm roughly It's like the Ecu is not recognising "boost" So this is where I am at now: S1.5 car S2det Ecu (only 1 relay next to ecu) S2 N/A loom S2 N/A afm S2 N/A plenum and sensors Det injectiors Adjustable FPR @ 30psi- I've noticed a lot of fluctuations in pressure- some days 10psi some days 35???? S2 coil packs S2 Tps and TB Walbro 225lph Boost T @10psi So to me I belive there are no ways the car can sense boost since I do not run a boost solenoid using n/a loom? The car will get up and go ok but feels to have no torque. It's just all noise. I come back off the track with a glowing turbo. The car will idle insanely rich to the point where the plugs fowl after 2 mins of idle @800rpm The car will run amazing and pull well sometimes but very moody on when. Also wondering if it's my fuel pressure fluctuating? Let me know any troubleshooting ideas anyway guys and girls! Look forward to joining the SAU community. Max.
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Should I retard timing? Specs Rb20 Rb25 turbo running 12psi FMIC Turbo back. Walbro 255 car runs fine just don't know if there's something I should do to protect it a little more before getting a proper tune. Only thing it does different from stock is after I've given it a bit of juice, while on deceleration if I tap the throttle it'll BANG!! But that's it. Any feedback would be sweet. Cheers.
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Hey gurus. I have a bit of an issue.. s1 R33 Gts25t. Stock RB25DET . Apparently has : a hypergear turbo, EBay 50mms external gate with a screamer , boost controller, fuel pressure regulator, 3" exhaust and a big fmic and a forward facing plenum. Now the issue is it's running really rich and fuel economy is completely stuffed. The bov has been removed and the pipes been routed to the back of the intake manifold. I have changed my Ecu and maf, and it's still the same. I can unplug my tps and the car drives and.Runs normal, but if I unplug the maf the car stalls. Also if i squeeze the bov hose closed the car stalls... and honestly I'm lost as to where to look now. Any help would be awesome thanks.
