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Hey, Just selling a few unwanted bits and pieces off my 32R gts4 as I am reverting it to stock as much as possible. 1. GAB Sports Super R front coilovers to suit r32 gtr/gts4. Damper adjustable (dont know how many settings, bought off and tuned by Nismo performance tomastown) Very low and stiff but not too harsh. Dust boots still good. $150 2. KYB Super Special Street rear damper adjustable coilovers. 4 settings. HKS blue springs. suit r32 gtr/gtst $150 NOTE: I used these as a set and the front were tuned to match rears. 3. SPATS front adjustable strut brace. r32. $80 4. FET Sports rear adjustable strut brace multifit r32/s13/c33/a31/180. $80 5. Used Rotors to suit gtst/gtst4/gtr sumimoto calipers. rears still 18mm and fronts 27mm thick. $20 Located in Melbourne sth east PM me Thanks

Hello all, I have a 1996 Skyline r33 GTS-T. This question is a two-parter. Firstly, and more simply, my r33 has GT-R Brembo Brakes. I am buying new pads and rotors. Can I correctly assume that any GTR-Brake/Rotor that was originally compatible with the r33 is going to be the same shape/size, regardless of the model? By that I mean, without knowing exactly what GT-R model these Brembo brakes came from, I can safely buy r33 GT-R sized brake pads and rotors and should be fairly safe in them fitting correctly? My second question is a bit more complex. I do not know if the previous owner put in Glycol-based brake fluid (DOT 4) or Silicone-based brake fluid (DOT 5). I did a test, by extracting some fluid from the reservoir and adding water. The brake fluid and water DID NOT mix, implying it is Silicone-based, but also the brake-fluid isn't purple, which is really throwing me for a loop. So, to be absolutely safe, I've decided instead just carry out a full fluid flush and replace with Glycol-based, especially since I am putting new pads and rotors on anyways. However, I am uncertain as to what the best method would be. I have read that I should use denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) to push the original brake fluid out, then use cheap DOT 3 to flush the system, then put in my proper high quality DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 brake fluid of choice. Is this correct? I've never done this before and want to make sure this is a proper method. I've also read that I should use compressed air to fully flush out the denatured alcohol, but I'm sure I understand how that works? Would I just hook up an air compressor pump to the brake fluid reservoir and open all the bleeder valves? I appreciate any/all advice, links and sources, and information you can provide. Thank you

I have the following for sale: Brand new in box Tomei Forged pistons. To suit: RB26, or tomei 2.8 stroker. Size: 86.5mm Type:Same pin height as stock pistons non cooling channel valve reliefs in crown for high lift cams/v cam etc Includes: Pins, rings and circlips and a cool tomei sticker! Condition: new, never used, still in box Price: $1200 A pair of front DBA 4000 slotted discs for brembo front brakes Suit: Brembo 32-33-34GTRs Size: 324mm x 30mm Condition: Used, about 1 year old, no shudder Thickness of rotor: 29.71mm, wear limit is 28mm Price: $300 Location: West Brisbane QLD I can drop off around Brisbane. Postage cost extra and will be sent registered PM if interested Cheers

hi there, im sure this has been asked before so sorry for the repeat, have been trying to search and seems the search bar (or my pc) hasnt been working for a few days. anyway, my brother drives a 2003 (i think) 350GT he has recently upgraded to much bigger AP racing calipers and rotors so here i am thinking i need bigger brakes when i see them in a box in the shed and they would be about perfect for what i need. (2 pot rear 4 pot front i think) would the rotors and or calipers directly bold on? and if not what would be involved in making them fit? also would i be needing a bigger than standard master cylinder? cheers Caleb

Up for sale I have stock parts, all in good working condition, all parts came off a 1997 R33 GTST. Make an offer, reasonable offers wont be refused. Standard Series 2 rear wing in silver (working break light included) $40 Aftermarket fiberglass Du-Luck side Skirts (painted silver, small crack but cant be seen when fitted) $80 Boot Lid (no wing, no lock, White) ***FREE*** Standard fuel pump $10 Standard exhaust cam gear $10 Standard injectors $90 Standard rear sway bar $20 Standard ECU $120 Standard cam shafts $50 X-Force muffler $30 Rear series 1 garnish $10 Standard coil packs $120 Standard indicators front guard $10 Standard rear rotors $15 All parts located south east Melbourne Prefer pick up...if not buyer can arrange postage I have photos of all the above parts...message me if you require pictures Thanks

GKTech caliper brackets for R33 GTST I have a pair of GKTech front brake caliper brackets to fit an R33 GTST Skyline. These brackets allow the stock Sumitomo front calipers to fit over a larger GTR rotor, providing more braking power & better heat dispersion. These are ideal if you do track days or motorsport in your R33. All bolts are included. I believe they also fit R32, S13. S14 & S15, but you need to confirm this yourself.They are used, boly heads have surface rust, but otherwise no issues. Located in Adelaide, but can post at cost.

The correct brake rotors/pads for WGNC34 Series 1/1.5 RB25 non turbo Hi all, TL;DR for all you people who cbf reading lol --------------------------------------------------------------------- Front rotor (Partstop) - DBA914 - Maxima A32/G30 Diameter: 280MM Thickness: 26/24MM Rear rotor (Partstop) - DBA11003 - R32 (Probably 20e 4dr) Diameter: 267MM Thickness: 16/14MM? Front pads (Repco) - D81305RCT Rear pads (Repco) - D81144RCT --------------------------------------------------------------------- There isn't much info on 25DE Neo 4WD stageas as you aussies don't get them, but here across the ditch in NZ we do. So I super struggled with what rotors to get. So i've gone to get new rotors (front and rear). The rears they couldn't help me at all and said they would call a supplier and get back to me. I have a 1998 25DE Series 1.5 stagea. As you do, you go to repco, I gave them my rego, they searched up the car and bought up all of the listings for the DE 4WD and I made sure it was the correct one, they said yup and gave me all the different rotors (all the same in size). The rotor they ended up giving me was a S14 200SX Turbo/300ZX Twin Turbo rotor, I didn't notice what it was for until I tried to fit the caliper over and then looked at the box. So I went back the following day and they confirmed that it was correct for stagea, the only thing I can think of now that could have been the issue is that because mine is a 1998 where they had both S1 and S2 released it was bringing up S2 listings which have bigger brakes at the front (for turbo 4WD anyway) It makes me wonder whether if I suggested a 1996/1997 model it would give the correct rotor size.. almost makes me want to go in and find out. Here is the difference between the incorrect rotor and my old rotor, you can see the height is onl off by 4 or so MM. So I returned the incorrect rotors and got my money back, they were roughly $250 on sale (30% off). Repco provided me with the correct part number DBA914, but they had none in stock. I cant remember how we got to that part number but other than that they couldn't help me any more than that. Although they did have slotted ones at $450 a pair (I obviously declined lol). They then suggested going to Autostop with that part number, luckily Autostop had both in stock for $54.10 each. I then tried my luck and asked if they had rear rotors and to my disbelief they had some that was listed for the stagea and yes, yes they fitted For the fronts, its super easy, i'm sure if you are looking for the parts yourself then you will most likely be doing the brakes so you probably already know how, but, if you dont I highly suggest watching ChrisFix video here on how to do your brakes. The incorrect rotors repco gave me was 30/28, thus being too thick for the caliper and new pads to fit over. Every other dimension was fine, just the thickness was incorrect. The new front rotors fit on perfectly, but the front right was making a clunking noise when I let off the brake pedal, this went away after probably 5 quick brakes. Doing the rear brakes is exactly the same as the front. Just make sure that your hand brake is off and the car wont be able to move before you go trying to hit off the old rotor and could potentially damage the drum brake. If you're lucky like I was, you may have screw holes where you can screw a screw in which helps remove the rotor if its rusted on like mine were lol. The new rear rotors do NOT have these screw holes, but the fronts DO. Had the same weird clunking sound coming from the rear right after fitting the new rotors and pads (could have been left as well for front and rear times) but from the drivers seat with the window down it sounded rear right, so while I still had the car in reverse I just went on the brakes/off the brakes about 10 times again and the clunking sound stopped, it did get quiter the more I did it too. So I'm not too sure whats causing that to be honest. I'm unsure of the thickness on the rear rotors, but by the looks of it, if you're asking for this rotor its gonna fit. Right, so, you should be careful when you're going to Repco looking for brake rotors as they don't have correct listings (for me anyway) But if you want 100% certainty go to Partstop as they have both rear and front rotors. So, here are the parts that worked for my stagea. These are also just your standard rotors, not slotted or drilled. Front rotor (Partstop) - DBA914 - Maxima A32/G30 Diameter: 280MM Thickness: 26/24MM Rear rotor (Partstop) - DBA11003 - R32 (Probably 20e 4dr) Diameter: 267MM Thickness: 16/14MM? Front pads (Repco) - D81305RCT Rear pads (Repco) - D1144RCT So hopefully if you're looking this post will pop up and these will be correct for you and save all the hassle of getting wrong items!

So after doing the major repairs on my r33 its time to fix the other minor things for quality of life. I need some advice on a few questions 1. Is it better to buy rear hub assemblies(including wheel studs as somehow the previous owner stripped 1 stud both sides) 2nd hand or buy brand new 2. Are rotors being sold on ebay trustworthy as I saw some for $125. 3. What brand rotors are recommended for r33 on the rear (not too expensive for this apprentice mechanic life) 4. If I do get rear aftermarket rotors do I have to make sure they are compatible with my factory calipers (they have Bendix ultimates pads)

Taking too long to stop your doped out R chassis so you can holla at some hot ass girls on the street? Then look no further. These came off my GTR and have only traveled 45,000kms (verified with Japanese department of transport) What you get: 2x Front Brembo Calipers and High quality racing pads 2x Front 330mm Factory Rotors 2x New Non ADR approved brake lines 2 x Factory Brake lines I will supply the rotors machined ready to go. Perfect big brake upgrade for your S or R chassis. If you want to stop like a mofo, this will do it. Happy to post at buyers expense. I *May* be able to organise cheap postage to Brisbane if you can pick it up from a Depot. $1150, plus whatever postage comes to. Thanks.