Search the Community

Hi! I'm servicing the RB20E on the R33 I just got. I went to SCA, got some Bosch spark leads, Part #B6080i. The book says they suit an RB20E from an R31, but it can't be too different, right? Anyway, the actual plug sockets are a lot longer on these leads than on my current ones, so the cables don't fit as nicely. I'd prefer to get new cables the same as my current ones to make sure my leads aren't going to pop off when I get on the loud pedal. Does anyone have a Part # for spark leads that are confirmed to fit R33 RB20E? Old mate at SCA checked online and these leads aren't listed for the R33, but they are listed for the R31. There are two other lead manufacturers with leads in the SCA system to suit this engine, and they are both listed for the R33 and the R31, so it stands to reason that these leads should fit both engines as well, but they're not a nice fit. Cheers, B.

Hi guys! NewB here, I had a look around here and couldn't really find the answer... Anyone on the Sunshine Coast know anyone who can align a R33 w/HICAS? Seems nobody knows how, I even rang Nissan and their workshop claimed they can't I'd travel to Brisbane if I knew for sure it'd get sorted... ta.

Hi Guys, Up for sale is my brand new-unopened Nismo RB26 Timing belt: From RHD Japan: The NISMO RB26DETT Engine Parts - Reinforced Timing Belt will work on any of the RB Series engines found in the Skyline`s, Cefiro`s, Cedric`s, Gloria`s, Stagea`s and Fairlady Z`s (RB26DETT, RB25DE(T) and RB20DE(T)).The belt surface is composed of a combination of Nylon and Kevlar. In addition, the cable core has been improved with high strength glass and the teeth/rubber has been improved with high saturation H-NBR. It is said that with these improvements the belt is 3~4 times less prone to cutting, 2~3 times stronger in resistance to heat, 3~4 times less prone to cracking and 2~3 times resistant to wearing. Current price from RHD is AUD$162 + shipping...I'll be happy to let it go for $150 shipped Located in Rosebery, Sydney. Contact: Matt 0400 023 241 Perfect for anyone about to do a service or want a cool Nismo part. Cheers

Hi everyone, Im looking to get an r34 gtt as stated. Im just curious about the parts/servicing availability in sydney. Has anyone experienced good value serving for parts? Cheers

Hi all, This may seem like a relatively easy thing to do, but I have just finished changing mine out and had a ridiculously hard time removing the lines. For anyone wanting to save a few bucks and change it out themselves I just thought this could help them out with this thread. This will be aimed at an R34 rb25det neo, but it's all pretty much the same. (will update with pictures later) Parts required: Ryco Z201 Time taken: Allow 1/2 hour Tools: 1/4 driver ratchet with 10 and 13mm socket Phillips head screwdriver Flat head screw driver Multigrips Vice (can be done without, but EXTREMELY useful) 7/16 or 11/12/13 mm open ended spanner (not needed, but makes the job easier) Rags or container Torch/Light Park the car in a garage/shady spot where you will do the work. Let the car cool unless you want to get burnt (dunno maybe you're into that kind of stuff). Step 1 - Depressurize the fuel system. Inside the drivers kick panel is a fuse pack, revealed by lifting a tab and taking out a rectangular plastic panel. In the top row of the fuses there should be 10 | 10 | 10 | 15 amp fuses. Using needle nose pliers, remove the 15A fuse (should be the one closest to the door). This is the fuse for the fuel pump. Once removed, try to start the car. If it starts, let it run and splutter out, then try to start again. This is just allowing the injectors to inject the remaining high pressure fuel in the system so when you remove the filter there isn't any chance of hydraulic injection. Step 2 - Isolate the car This step isn't absolutely required, but you are working in close proximity and will be leaning over close to the battery. If you don't mind losing your programmed radio stations, it would be a good idea for piece of mind. Step 3 - Removal of the filter I tried just removing the hose clamps from around the filter in/out lines, but if it hasn't been changed in a long time like mine - best of luck to you - I had to wrench the puppy in a vice, which showed that I had no chance while it was still in the car. After long periods of time the rubber retains it's shape where the clamp is, and makes it super tight. Locate the filter on the drivers side of the engine bay. From the in side of the filter, there should be a rubber hose connecting to a metal line via a hose clamp, using a 10mm socket, undo the clamp and let it slide down onto the metal line. Give the line a gentle yank. Not moving? Yeah, neither did mine. The easist way I found was using the 7/16 spanner, slide it onto the metal line and use it to pull the rubber up off the line. PRECAUTION: It will be tight, watch out to not slip and slice yourself on something. PRECAUTION # 2: There WILL be fuel in the line. Not much, but there will be. Don't have any sources of ignition nearby (another reason why having the battery disconnected is a good idea) and rags to clean the fuel. Option 1: Pull it off and use a rag to try capture as much of the fuel. Option 2: Place a container directly under the line on the floor and catch it on the way down. I just let mine drip, I'm a badass like that. From the out side of the filter, it will lead to a fitting near the intake manifold. Remove the clamp, and using a flat head screwdriver - pry it away from the fitting and use the spanner to pull it the rest of the way. Again, there will be fuel in the line. Less this time, but have a rag ready. Your filter should now be free with a line on each end. Take note which way the filter was sitting in the car (hopefully "OUT" was feeding your fuel rail) and what lines go on which end. Step 4 - Change out the filter Place the filter in a vice with one end of the filter where the rubber line starts in line with the edge of the vice. Doesn't matter if you overtighten it, the filter should be going in the bin anyway, Undo the clamp on the line, and using the multigrips twist the line to just free it up. Pry it off with the screwdriver/spanner combo (if it really hard to get off - using 2 flat head screwdrivers and the sides of the vice as leverage points may help. Just watch not to slip and cut yourself). Repeat on the other side, and replace the lines on the new filter - correct lines for IN/OUT, etc. Make sure there isn't any dirt and shit in the lines when you put them on, especially in the out side, as it will be unfiltered straight to your injectors. Step 5 - Replace everything Grab the clamps from the metal line and slide it on the rubber before you install it, makes it a little easier, doesn't matter what order you do it. Don't over tighten the clamps, remember when you removed them they were not overly tight. Remember to grab all your tools from the engine bay, and clean up all the spilt fuel, especially before putting the battery terminal back on. Put the negative back on the battery (yes it may spark, hope you cleaned your mess) and put the fuse back into the correct spot. Before starting your car, turn the key to IGN - the fuel pump has to prime the system (bring it up to operating pressure), so now is a good time to look for leaks. Just check all the lines that you tampered with, make sure nothing is leaking. If it isn't, start your car and away you go! Congratulations, you just saved yourself $50 from a mechanic. If anyone has any input, questions, advice or a better way of doing this, let me know and I can put in on here. Cheers for reading. (Y)

Recommendations: R34 Mechanic/Service Centre Hey guys, For awhile I've been taking my R34 to my local K-Mart Tyre and Auto for services (only because I used to know the store manager), but I'm kind of over their bullshit as lately they've been a bit dodgey. So I am looking for a good mechanic in Sydney, preferably someone with experience working with Jap imports/Skylines. I was reading around and found the attached thread from this forum, where a lot of people recommend seeing Mizu at JLM in Rydalmere. Is this still a good place to go? I don't mind travelling for it. Thanks guys.

WTB Aussie Delivered Parts Hello All, After spending some time restoring my GTR, I've become extremely captivated & very much in love with my Australian delivered example & I am now looking to restore my GTR to it's absolute finest condition! In doing so, I need the following 1. Aussie delivered cluster, cluster inserts or guages 2. Standard centre console gauges 3. Two inner door handles, left and right 4. Right hand front door trim (can repair mine but f**k it if, one's in good nick) 5. Body seals, window seals, door seals 6. Fuel cap 7. Steering wheel or a place I can retrim mine 8. Gear knob 9. Service books and compendium Cheers Message me on 0422667753

Does anyone know what happened to Gavin Wood (AutoTech)? He used to service my 370GT Coupe but he's no longer at his premises ? This guy was AWESOME!!! Now I don't know where to get my 370GT serviced. Can anyone help..Need a good mechanic...someone who knows these cars only nit any old workshop. Thanks everyone

Hey guys, Just recently reached 100k on my 2006 V36 350gt Skyline. Motor is VQ35HR. Just wondering what is required for the Major service? Or if anyone has any suggestions on parts or where to buy? Thanks in advance