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Showing results for tags 'stalls'.
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Hi Guys, this is my very first post on this forum so sorry in advance if this doesn't belong here. Alright to get started. For the past year now I've been having issue with my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 25 GTT. I've took it to numerous mechanics and still to this day none of them knows the main problem. The problem is , when i'm driving my car would shit it's self and turn off ( even if i'm doing 70km) First signs before it turns off are loss of power during revs, then all the dashboard lights comes on and i lose my power steering. Even sometimes when i'm at idle it would turn off , and or when coming to a complete stop it'll drop revs and turn off. Now lately it's been turning back on after it stalls after a few cranks, Where other times it won't turn on at all and i have to get it towed. ( had it towed 8 times in the course of 2 months). Then i buy a new fuel pump and it works fine again for another couple of weeks then dies again. I've brought over 6 fuels pumps and still have this issue. SO far my car ran fine for 2 months before it happened again today and it's un driveabale. I've changed the Cam angle sensor clean the pod filter -Brand new coilpacks/ sparkplugs. Brand new fuel system( new fuel pump, fuel filter, regulator, wire-ring hatch) - New vacuum hose. I took it then to an auto electrician and he said it was fine that he couldn't find any electrical problems. The only thing i can think of is new fuel injector's but multiple mechanics said that's the the cause. I really in desperate help to fix this issue and it would be much appreciated if anyone could help
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Hi all, Really hoping someone might have an idea on this issue. I've tried Pulsar specific forums but no luck. (backstory) Car wouldn't start, got NRMA (roadside assistance) out to jump start, and he tested the battery while car was running, to check alternator (14.## volts), he said alternator was OK, so we drove it home. Next morning, went to get a new battery, car started OK, but at autoparts store, they tested battery and came back 'bad'. Bought a new battery, installed it.... Basically car is idling/stalling, which I 'think' might have to do with replacing the battery. Starting the car, it would start, then die. Only way to get it to start is to apply a little accelerator. After a few seconds, remove acceleration and car would idle, poorly (probably around 500rpm +/-). If I accelerate (1-2k rpm), and release foot, rpm would drop right down <500rpm, almost stalling, then it would pop back up again. I thought maybe fuel was dirty, but Mum said she fueled up a few days ago, but didn't notice any issues. I checked air filter in case blocked, didn't seem to bad, a little dirty, but nothing suss. Checked oil in case was low, and maybe causing friction in cylinder.. probably very unlikely, or pointless, but figured why not, while I had the hood up. (oil was 50% full, but needs changing) I have heard that replacing a battery can turn the ECU dumb, causing it to have to relearn. I've come across a few procedures, but none seem to work; http://afiaustralia.com.au/images/stories/N16_pulsar_idle_fault.pdf https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/nissan-idle-relearn-procedure/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR-AjHCslhs https://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-ecu-relearning-procedures-t445702.html Following the steps in the 1st link, step #6 says to "disconnect Throttle position sensor (brown in colour) connector", but there is no brown connector, just a single green one. A service manual I found shows a diagram with a brown (throttle position sensor), and a Grey (closed throttle position switch), but our Pulsar just has a single green connector. When I disconnected / reconnnected that one, the accelerator went limp, couldn't rev the car. Had to turn car off for several seconds, then on again, now back to square one. I tried an OBDII reader too, just one of those ebay jobs, with the Torque (lite) Android app, but I got an error in Torque, still loaded into Torque, but pretty much nothing would connect (except acceleration, which maybe ran off protocol 3, which I think Torque said was OK). I tried OBDLink, but wouldn't work unless I had one of their readers. Also tried BlueDriver, but wouldn't detect my reader :/. Note: i just found this entry on wikipedia regarding the QG18DE engine; OBDII – On-board Diagnostic System (codes can be read/erased by a variety of readers, e.g. Actron blaZt). Nissan Pulsar N16 Models without EuroOBD in Australia do not have OBDII. If the car doesn't have OBDii reader.. what does it have? It has the port under the dash that connects a reader, so it must take something ? Vehicle is a 2003 Nissan Pulsar N16 Auto 1.8L QG18DE engine. Thoughts ? Thanks in advance.
