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Showing results for tags 'starting'.
Found 6 results
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Hello everyone! Bit of a stupid question, did some research and couldn't find the answer. For starters, car specs: 92 R32 GTR Power FC Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust with test pipe and unknown brand front pipe. HKS pod filters with Z32 AFM HKS FMIC and hard pipes. Situation: Recently i installed a cat delete pipe (test pipe) on the car and has been running great since then, accept for... The first start of the day (cold start?) she doesn't want to start. Ill hear the starter doing work however no go. Give it another try and once the engine catches i have to hit the throttle. car will idle all f$#@ed up for about 30 seconds then all is well? Every Start up after that is normal, just the first start of the day. Has this happened to anyone else? I don't believe in coincidence, but maybe this is. P.S. the cat temp sensor that was originally plugged into the stock cat is disconnected now. and I'm in japan... its 80 F/ 26 C in the mornings here, however the GTR had no trouble starting in 20 F / -6 C weather this past winter. Thanks everyone! -
Hi Guys, Seeing as when I run into a starting problem I try to get some info first, I thought I would post how I solved my no start issue for my R33 S2. The car is great, best I have had as it rarely runs into trouble and if it does it is usually responsive to the first thing I do I love her! Anyway, yesterday I got some fuel and went for a little drive. I turned the car off to run into the shop and when I tried to start her it was a slow start and died pretty much as the engine started. I tried a couple more times and would only keep cranking & cranking. Battery was good, got no codes from ECU, heard fuel pump prime and relay click etc. I was worried maybe fuel pump as I didn't really smell much fuel considering the cranking but that didn't end up being the case. Narrowed it down to CAS or AFM. I had a spare CAS so I unplugged mine and undid the three bolts and removed it taking note as best as I could of the bolt position. I put the spare CAS in and it seemed to fit easier and was easier to turn and adjust. Guessed the correct position, tightened bolts and plugged in and she started first go! I was having the occasional slow start which I have put down to being the CAS now as well. For the first minute it sounded like it had a slight miss but after a run that was gone and it sounds so much better than before and starts great. I also gave my AFM a clean just in case which helped also. Anyway, I hope this helps someone! Here is a pic of her with her new wheels. Emily
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Hey, I'm having some starting issues with my rb25det neo. Its in a pretty much stock R34 GTT with an Elite 2000. It will just crank and not start, but sometimes will fire right up. I'm wondering if its my CAS that is the issue, but once it does start, it seems to run great. It started this year after the Haltech install. Never had an issue before, and it worked perfectly for a week after installing the haltech too. The first time it happened, I could smell unburnt fuel, so I pulled the fuel pump fuse and it started up, so I thought it was just flooded. Now that doesn't work. I put the timing light on it again, and the crank timing marks were nowhere to be found. Took the cas off thinking the key snapped, but it was fine. Put it back on and it started, and I checked the timing again and it was lined back up. Its almost like the ecu was seeing the timing 180 degrees out somehow. This has happened multiple times now, including this morning. Some things I've tried: I've taken out each coilpack and I get spark from all of them while turning my cas, and I hear the injectors clicking too. I've synched my timing with the ecu each time. I've cleaned the cas with sensor cleaner. I've logged the ecu while cranking and it's getting signal from the cas. I've looked over some wiring and can't see frays or anything. Double checked my trigger settings, and they are the same as the original base map I'm nervous to drive around now as it seems to be random when it wants to start. And it seems strange that once it actually starts, it runs great. Any ideas? I don't know anyone with a confirmed working cas otherwise I'd try swapping to see it it helped. -
Hi Guys I've tried reading multiple related threads but i can't seem to find any that entirely relate to my issue. My GTR randomly starts whenever it wants. It cranks fine but just struggles to start. I find it struggles more when warmer, but occasionally doesn't start when cold also. I've replaced coilpacks, spark plugs, ignitor. I've re-grounded all the earthing points. I've changed the battery I've played around with the cranking ignition timing on the Power FC hand controller It's got a forged motor and running a power fc with supporting mods. Sometimes when I give it gas while cranking it helps and other times it makes no difference. the thing which i can't figure out is that whenever i connect a jumper pack to the battery, it always starts up. Any ideas what this could be? Thanks -
Hi Ive recently had a starting issue. tried changing the plugs and testing for spark. Tested the CAS by spinning it. Checked for fuel after the rail. got the car started by spraying start aid to the intake. It started straight away. but when throttle is applied it seem to die or drop revs till it dies. ive recently started using united e85 so im thinking maybe dirty injectors. But when the car started it ran for 10mins without a problem. but dies when revs applied. The first time this issue occured the car died in the middle of the road, lost all power but the revs were still present. As soon i applied more throttle it died. Thereafter never managed to start it till now. any help is appreciated as im trying to to waste money on something that isnt broke. R3GTT, VIPEC PLUGIN
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hey guys, i got a 2004 v35, and as i was driving the other day, my engine just cut off, when i go to start it, the engine cranks but it will not start, all the dash lights are on as well, i took it to northside nissan and was sold a new battery and told that was ecu couldnt be found with their scan tools... and want to send it off for inspection for $350... plus whatever extra it cost on top to fix. has anyone had this problem ? or can anyone suggest a specialist in perth that specializes in V35 or 350z ? cheers
